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AMERICAN 

GRAPE GROWING^ 



AND 



WINE MAKING. 



BY 

GEORGE HUSMANN, 

OF TALCOA VINEYAKDS. NAPA, OAL. 

NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION. 

WITH SEVERAL ADDED ClIAPTEPS ON THE GRAPE 
INDUSTRIES OF CALli^ORNLA. 




NEW YORK: 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 

751 BROADWAY. 
1885. 



C^^£//^ 



a^ 



3" 



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Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, by the 
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 

In the Office of the Librarian ot Congress, at Washington. 

, . /./if; irabsiert f rci*; ..,•..• ^ 
/ ', ', F4t. Office Lite. 



PREFACE TO THE NEW AND ENLARGED 
EDITION. 

The progress of horticulture is so marked and rapid, 
that those who do not keep even pace with it, are soon 
left behind. This is especially true with grape culture, 
which has perhaps progressed more rapidly than any other 
branch. When I look over the first edition, issued only 
a few years ago, I find that it has already fallen behind, 
although its aim was to present the most recent experience. 
New varieties of grapes have since made their appearance, 
while old ones have been dropped from the lists, the taste 
of the public having become more refined and critical. 
New areas have been opened to grape culture, which is 
spreading into every State and Territory, from the Atlantic 
to the Pacific, and the all-important question, one that 
is asked every day, in every locality, is : *^ What grapes 
shall we plant ?" This is as it should be ; progress is the 
watchword of the age, and no one can be more willing to 
acknowledge its claims than I, who have wished for it 
and believed that it would come, when others thought 
that these hopes were but the dreams of an enthusiast. 

Especially since my removal to the Pacific Coast (in 
the fall of 1881) have I become aware that a book which 
I aimed to make as cosmopolitan as possible, in the ex- 
perience it sought to impart, can not claim to be a guide 
unless a large share of its pages are devoted to grape cul- 
ture and wine making in California. A visit to this 
shore, in the summer of 1881, convinced me that this 
was the true home of the grape, and that California, with 
her sunny and dry summers, and her mild winters, was 
destined to be the vine land of the world ; that promised 
land where every one '' could sit under his own vine and 
fig tree." Diseases of the vine are here comparatively 

(III) 



IV PKEFACE. 

unknown, the rainless summers, when no showers are 
expected from May until September, allow nearly all of 
the crop to ripen every year. Even in the unusually cool 
summer of 1882, with early and abundant rains in Sep- 
tember, the crops ripened sufficiently to make a fair wine, 
perhaps only the more agreeable because not too heavy. 
These fai^orable climatic conditions simplify the culture 
and training of the vine, the gathering of the fruit, and 
the operations in wine making. Gallizing and Petioliz- 
ing became superfluous, and would not even pay, as 
grape juice is cheaper than sugar and water would be. 
In this climate it becomes possible that one man can own 
and superintend hundreds of acres of vineyard, and that 
a fair Vv^holesale price for the wine, when three months 
old, is from twenty to thirty cents per gallon. At this 
rate it pays the producer well, as it costs him on the 
average about twenty dollars per annum per acre to cul- 
tivate the grapes and make the wine ; and five hundred 
gallons per acre is considered an average yield. That, 
under all these favorable circumstances, California must 
become the first grape-growing State in the Union, seems 
to be but natural, especially when we consider also the 
raisin industry, perhaps still more profitable, and the 
extended shipments of table grapes to the Eastern States, 
and other sources of profit. 

But, easy as are grape culture and wine making here, 
there is a vast field for improvement ; and nowhere else 
perhaps are rational knowledge and proper skill more 
needed. The very ease of the pursuit, which allowed 
any one, even with the simplest culture and the most 
common treatment, to raise a fair crop and make a drink- 
able wine, has led many, in fact a large majority, to em- 
bark in grape growing who knew but little about it, and 
did not try to learn more. They followed the pursuit 
negligently and mechanically, without proper study and 
observation. The results were, the culture of varieties 



PREFACE. V 

which produced tlie most, without regard to quality, 
and a great amount of inferior wines were made from 
them. These poor wines, of course, obscured the merits 
of the really fine wines, and brought them into bad 
repute. For a number of years California wines were al- 
most unsalable, even at twelve or fifteen cents per gallon. 
But this state of affairs has changed for the better, and 
the improvement still continues. The old Mission grape, 
which was almost the only variety cultivated at first, and 
which gives a very heady and heavy wine, but of little 
fineness and delicacy, is generally cast aside for better 
varieties, of which nearly all the new plantings have been 
made. Wines are now beginning to be appreciated ac- 
cording to their merits, the habits of the choicer varieties 
of the grape are studied more, and their pruning and treat- 
ment changed accordingly. Dealers begin to discriminate 
in their purchases betweeii cellars filled with ordinary 
wines and those of superior grades; they pay higher prices 
for the latter, and are reluctant to purchase the former 
at any price. That this change is as inevitable as it is 
desirable, must become clear to every one whose judgment 
is unbiased. It is the ^^old, old story," which rei)eats 
itself in every branch of industry, that only those whose 
motto is, ^^ Excelsior," who work with brain as well as 
hand to achieve the best, will eventually win the day. 
California has wines already, which can take their place 
with the choicest productions of the Rhine, France, and 
Burgundy, and we may safely claim for our wines, that 
a better article can be bought in San Francisco to-day, 
from some of our leading firms, at from six to nine dollars 
per case, than can be purchased in St. Louis or New York, 
of foreign importation, at from fifteen to twenty-four 
dollars per case. That these wines are often shipped to 
the East in bulk, and then sold under French and German 
labels, detracts nothing from their merits ; that this is 
even done in San Francisco, is indeed to be deplored. But 



YI PREFACE. 

this will change; I hope to yet see the day in which Cali- 
fornia may proudly claim a place in the front rank in the 
production of fine wines, and when they will boldly sail 
under their true colors. 

To accomplish this change, we need a closer study of 
the best varieties for each location, and rational treatment 
according to their habits ; we need more skill in the mak- 
ing and handling of wines ; more especially do we require 
a free and unshakled expression and interchange of ex- 
perience and opinions among grape growers. The State 
Viticultural Commission, created by act of Legislature 
approved in April, 1880, with an annual appropriation of 
ten thousand dollars, have done a great deal to spread 
information, and to gather it. The first Convention of 
grape growers, held in Dashaway Hall, San Francisco, 
in September, 1883, brought together perhaps the largest 
and finest exhibition of grapes and wines ever held in the 
State, and elicited much valuable information. But un- 
fortunately it was also characterized by a dictatorial and 
arbitrary spirit, which did not allow as free and liberal 
an interchange of experience as could be wished, and a 
great deal of time was consumed in learned essays and 
impracticable theories, which could have been more profit- 
ably devoted to experience from practical men, who were 
in a measure shut out from the discussions, if their views 
did not happen to coincide with those of the ruling spirits. 
Let us hope that a more liberal spirit may prevail in the 
future, and that the next convention will give us a full 
and free expression of the views of all practical men. 

We need close attention to insect pests, and especially 
to the Phylloxera, which has already made serious inroads 
in many sections of the State, and may become as de- 
structive to our vineyards in the near future, as it has 
already been in France. We want to j)revent its ravages, 
not by costly insecticides, or by quarantine, but by the 
only rational method, the planting of vines able to resist 



PREFACE. YII 

it; tliis will establish our vineyards on a permanent basis. 

To do my share in this great work, to contribute my 
mite to the fund of general knowledge, has been the aim 
of the additional pages, devoted mainly to grape culture 
and wine making on the Pacific Coast. It is true that my 
experience here is but limited, but I have observed closely, 
and have quoted the experience of others wherever I could 
obtain it. I do not claim to be an authority, nor do I 
acknowledge any. We are all workers in a common cause, 
liable to err, but also gathering experience as we labor, 
which may be of service to others, if imparted. Let me 
hope, that my brother vintners will receive this new edi- 
tion as kindly as the former one. 

In this, as in the first edition, it has been my object to 
be a guide to the beginner, the small producer and wine 
maker, rather than to those who already own establish- 
ments large enough to employ skilled labor, and who, with 
large capital, are able to bear reverses and mistakes with 
equanimity. But the beginner who works from hand to 
mouth, who must struggle on for several years before he 
can realize enough to make a comfortable living, can not 
aiford to make serious mistakes, either in the varieties he 
plants, or in the wines he makes from them. If such find 
anything in the pages of this little book which is useful 
to them, which will cheer their labors and further them, 
making them more easy and profitable, I shall have at- 
tained my object in revising it. What we all need, is 
practical and useful information, more than elaborate, 
impractical theories. This I have tried to give, based 
upon my own experience, and that of other practical 
vintners from whom I have been anxious to learn, fully 
realizing that I was entering upon a new field, where I 
had to learn from those who preceded me. 

George Husmakn. 
Talcoa Vineyards, Napa, Col.; Nov. 9, 1883. 



CONTENTS. 

Page, 

Introduction ^ 

CHAPTER I.— The Classification of Grapes , 11 

" II.— Propagation of the Vine— By Seeds 16 

" III.— Propagation by Cuttings in the Open Air, 19 

" IV.- Propagating the Vine by Layers 21 

" v.— Graf ting the Vine 22 

" VI.— Tlie Vineyard-Location, Aspect, and Soil 28 

" VII.— Preparing the Soil 30 

♦' VIIL— What Grapes to Plant— Choice of Varieties. 31 

" IX.— Labrusca Class, With their Hybrids 35 

" X.— The ^stivaiis Class— For General Cultivation 54 

" XL— The Jistivalis Class— Varieties Promising W^ell 61 

" XII.— Cordifolia Class (or riparia according to Engelmann) . . 65 

" XIIL— The Cordifolia Class— Varieties Promising Well 70 

" XT v.— Varieties Difficult to Classify, etc 77 

" XV.- Varieties for Different Localities 79 

" XVI.— Planting the Vine 81 

*' XVII.— Treatment of the Vine the First Summer 84 

" XVIII.— Treatment of the Vine the Second Summer 87 

XIX.-Treatment of the Vine the Third Summer 91 

" XX.— Treatment of the Vine the Fourth Summer 96 

" XXL— Training the Vine on Arbors and Walls 98 

" XXn.-Other Methods of Training 99 

" XXIIL— Diseases of the Vine 102 

" XXIV.— Insects Injurious to the Grape 105 

" XXV. -Frosts— Winter Protection 115 

" XXVL— Girdling, Thinning, and Miscellaneous Matters 117 

" XXVIL— Gathering and Marketing the Fruit 121 

" XXVIIL— Grape Growing in Southern Ohio 127 

" XXIX.— Grape Culture and Wine Making in Ohio ..135 

" XXX.— Grape Culture at Kelley's Island, Ohio 138 

" XXXL— Grape Growing, etc., on Lake Keuka, N. Y 142 

" XXXIL— Grape Growi ng in Southern Texas 145 

" XXXni.— The Grapes of Southern Texas 151 

XXXIV.-The Vineyard in Texas 154 

" XXXV.— Grape-Growing in Western Texas 159 

XXXVI.— The Culture of the Grape in California 162 

" XXXVrr.— Viticulture in Sonoma Valley, California 166 

" XXXVIII.— Viticulture in Napa Co., California. 169 

*' XXXIX.— Grape Culture in Maryland— Cashin's Trellises 174 

" XL.— Grape Culture in Missouri 180 

" XLI. -Grape Culture Near Chattanooga, Tennessee 182 

" XLIL— White Elk Vineyards, Iowa 184 

" XLIIL— The Phylloxera Problem 186 

" XLIV.— Egg Harbor Wines.— Early Winter Grape.— Cost of a 

Vineyard 190 

" XLV.— Wine Making 195 

" XLVL— Dr. Gairs and PctioVs Methods of Wine Maldng 213 

" XLVII. —Wine Making Rendered Easy— Conclusion 236 

—Grapes and Wine in California 240 

VIII 



PART I. 



THE CULTURE OF AMERICAN GRAPES 
AND VARIETIES. 



(9) 



CHAPTER I. 

THE CLASSIFICATION OF GRAPES. 

It is only within comparatively few years that much 
attention has heen given to the parentage of our culti- 
vated varieties of native grapes, as it was formerly thought 
to be of little or no importance whether a variety was 
derived from one or another of the few native species. 
More recent experience has shown that the varieties of a 
species, however widely they may differ from one another 
in some respects, agree in other points, and however far 
the varieties may be removed from the native type, they 
retain certain characters which indicate a common par- 
entage. On the other hand, if we know from which 
species a variety is derived, we can, with a fair degree of 
certainty, predict its general behavior in cultivation, and 
in a great degree its value. This is so generally true that 
the experienced viticulturists of the present day regard 
the origin or parentage of the cultivated varieties as a 
matter of the first importance. It is riot in the character 
of the fruit alone that our varieties differ, as they are 
derived from one or another of the native species, but the 
foliage, the wood, the tendrils, the roots, and other parts 
of the vine retain their peculiarities ; and hardiness not 
only as regards the ability to endure cold uninjured, but 
the ability to resist the attacks of both parasitic plants 
and insects, or whatever else affects the health of the plant 
is now known to be transmitted with as much certainty, 
if not, indeed, more surely, than are the form and quality 
of the fruit. 

In classifying the numerous varieties now on the lists, 
they are grouped according to the species of Vitis (the 
11 



12 AMEBIC AK GEAPE GEOWIN-G 

botanical name of the grape genus), from which thej are 
known to be, or supposed to be, derived, and the name 
of the species is given to the class. Thus, when a yariety 
is spoken of as *^ belonging to the wstivalis class," it is 
to be understood that it descended from, or is derived 
from, the native species of grape called by botanists, Vitis 
CBstivalis. So, when in speaking of a variety we, for the 
sake of brevity, say '^it is an wstivalis,''^ it is equivalent 
to saying that it belongs to the class of varieties derived 
from the species of that name. 

All of the European grapes are regarded as having their 
origin in Vitis vinifera of the old world, a species which, 
though it has been cultivated from the earliest recorded 
time, is nowhere known in the wild state. The varieties 
of this, while generally unsuccessful east of the Eocky 
Mountains, succeed admirably in the climate of the Pacific 
Coast, and, until very recently, have been cultivated there 
to the exclusion of all others. It is of interest to our 
grape-growers principally on account of the hybrids 
which have been produced between it and our own na- 
tive grapes. The varieties of the European gra^Q differ 
from ours in their leaves, which are " smoothish," and, 
when young, shining ; they are more or less deeply 
5 to 7-lobed, the lobes pointed and sharply toothed ; the 
flesh of the berry adheres to the skin, while the seeds 
have a narrow and usually proportionately longer beak 
than in any of the native varieties. 

There are throughout North America, eight or nine 
species admitted by botanists as distinct, four only of 
which have yielded varieties of cultivation ; these are : 

1. Vitis Labriisca, The Northern Fox Grape. 

2. Vitis wstivalis, The Summer Grape. 

3. Vitis cordifolia, or | The Winter or Frost Grape, or 

V. riparia, ) The Riverside Grape. 

4. Vitis vidjmia, The Southern Fox Grape. 



AKD WINE MAKING. 13 

Without attempting elaborate botanical descriptions, 
we give here a few brief popular notes on each species ; 
the varieties derived from them will be found grouped 
together in their proper places. It may be remarked 
here that the species vary to a great extent in their wild 
condition, and it is often the case that those most famil- 
iar with grapes find it very difficult to decide to which 
species to refer a given specimen. That most thorough 
botanist and keen observer, Doct. George Engelmann, 
of St. Louis, Mo., found that the seeds give, in most 
cases, more constant marks by which to distinguish the 
species, than could be found elsewhere. Those who are 
interested in the botanical aspects of grape culture are 
referred to an illustrated article prepared by him for the 
" Bushberg Catalogue," published by Bush & Son & 
Meissner, Biishberg, Mo. . 

1. ViTis Labrusca, Linn. — The specific name, La- 
hrusca, is the ancient Latin one for a wild vine. This 
species, the well known Wild, or Fox Grape, extends 
from Canada to the Gulf, but is rarely found in the 
Valley of the Mississippi. It is common in moist woods 
or thickets, and sometimes reaches the tops of the high- 
est trees. The leaves are large and thick, often entire, 
and coated on the underside with a thick, whitish, or 
rusty wool : berries large, dark-purple, or amber-colored, 
with a tough pulp and a strong, ^^foxy," or musky odor; 
the most common grape of the Northern woods, and pre- 
sents a great variety in the wild state ; has given rise to 
an important series of table grapes, of which the best 
known are the Concord, and several useful hybrids. 

2. YiTis ^STiVALis, Michaux.— The term Summer 
Grape is the equivalent of the specific name. This 
has large leaves, which are clothed on the underside 
with loose cottony or woolly down, which is bright red or 
rusty, *'smoothish" when old ; the clusters slender, com- 



14 AMEKICAN GRAPE GROWIKG 

pact, dark-blue or black, with a bloom. It is the latest 
flowering of all the Northern species ; its range is more 
Southern and Western than the preceding, and it reaches 
great perfection in Missouri, Kansas, Arkansas, and In- 
dian Territory. Norton's Virginia and Herbemont are 
prominent among the varieties, as will be seen at the 
proper place, in the '' cestivalis class." 

3. ViTis coRDiFOLiA, Michaux ; and Yitis riparia, 
Michaux. — Michaux described two species of the Winter 
or Frost Grape, one as V. cordifolia (the heart-shaped 
leaved), and the other as V. riparia (of the river banks). 
The two were kept distinct by Torrey & Gray in the 
'' Flora of North America" (1838). In the '' Flora of 
the State of New York" (1813), Doct. Torrey gives both 
species, and says of F. riparia: ^^This species is most 
readily distinguished from the preceding ( V. cordifolia), 
with which it is often confounded, by its incisely serrate 
leaves." Doct. Gray in his "Manual of the Botany of 
the Northern States " (1856), unites the two under F. 
cordifolia, Michaux, and says : " Var. riparia has the 
leaves broader and cut-lobed." ( F. riparia, Michx). 
Doct. Chapman in his "Flora of the Southern U. S." 
(1860), follows the same arrangement as Gray, Later, 
Doct. Engelmann in Eiley's " Report on the Insects of 
Missouri" (1871), and in the "Bushberg Catalogue," 
again restores Michaux's arrangement, and gives both 
Viiis cordifolia and F. riparia. Those who are aware 
of the acuteness he brings to the investigation of obscure 
subjects, and the high esteem in which he is held in the 
botanical world, will attach great importance to Doct. 
Engelmann's views. 

According to him, besides the difference in the leaves, 
the fruit of F. cordifolia is black, without a bloom, ripens 
late, and has a " strong and very fetid aromatic taste, 
which unfits it for making into preserves, or for pressing 
wine." In F. riparia he says that the berries are usually 



AND WIKE MAKING. 15 

larger than in the last^ mostly with a bloom, ripens much 
earlier, and is much pleasanter. While no cultivated 
varieties of V, cordifoUa are known, V. riparia gives 
several, the best known of which is Clinton. In a strict 
botanical classification it might be necessary to keep 
these two species distinct, but in a viticultural arrange- 
ment, where the cordifoUa class has become established 
by usage, it seems hardly worth while to insist upon call- 
ing it the ^^ riparia class." As the F. cordifoUa, as un- 
derstood by Engelmann, affords no cultivated varieties, 
no confusion is likely to result from the nse of the term 
cordifoUa, to designate that class of grapes of which the 
Clinton and Taylor are best known, and which the Elvira 
promises to bring into greater prominence than it has 
heretofore enjoyed. The remaining species : 

4. ViTis VULPINA, Linnasus (^* the foxy"), has been 
called F. rotundifoUa (the ^^ro^nd-leaved") by some 
later authors. It is not found narth of Maryland, and 
extends into Florida. It rambles to a great distance, has 
a close, smooth bark like a beech tree, heart-shaped 
leaves, shining on both surfaces ; the berries, one-half to 
three-fourths inch in diameter, are very few in a cluster, 
dropping as soon as ripe, bluish-black (with light-col- 
ored varieties), with a very thick and leathery skin and 
a strong and peculiar flavor. This is the parent of the 
much talked of Scuppernong, Mish, and others. It is 
called Bullace, and also Muscadine. 

The important hybrids are mentioned under the class 
to which the native parent belongs. The term hybrid is 
properly used only where the variety results from the 
union of two other varieties from distinct species ; the ■ 
Catawba and Clinton, or the Concord and Black Prince, 
by their union, would in each case produce a hybrid ; an 
Ives fertilized by the pollen of Martha, would produce, 
not a true hybrid, but merely a cross, as both varieties 
belong to the same species, the Lahrusca. 



16 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIl^G 

CHAPTER II. 

PROPAGATION OF THE VINES.— BY SEEDS. 

While the raising of grape vines from the seed is more 
a labor of love, than of actual profit, yet its influence on 
grape culture generally has been so great, and we are 
already indebted so largely to its zealous followers, that 
it cannot be entirely omitted in a work like this. We 
can not gain further perfection in varieties without this, 
and the success which has already attended the labors 
of Rogers, Wylie, Campbell, Ricketts, Muench, Miller, 
Weydemeier, Langendoerfer, and especially Mr. Jacob 
Rommel, in giving to us the Elvira, and other varieties 
still more promising, affords hopes of even more impor- 
tant results. 

To begin then at the beginning : choose your seed from 
a good stock. I am inclined to believe that only the 
cestii^alis and cordifolia (or riparia, as Engelmann has 
it) species will give us the true wine grapes of the country, 
and if we can increase their size somewhat, they will also 
be the best table grapes. We have them already as large 
as the Catawba, and they are more juicy, of finer flavor, 
and less pulpy than the varieties from the Labrusca 
species, while they are much more healthy and hardy. 
Remember that we have already too many varieties, and 
that every new one we add should have some decided 
merit over any of the old varieties, or else be discarded at 
once. 

Choose the best berries and the most perfect bunches, 
from which to take the seed, and either sow in autumn, 
and cover, or keep them over winter, mixing the seeds 
with moist sand, when separated from the pulp, to insure 
ready germination. Sow early in spring, in well pulver- 
ized clay soil, in drills one foot apart, and drop the seeds 



AND WINE MAKING. 17 

about an inch apart in the rows, covering about three- 
quarters of an inch deep, with finely pulverized soil. 
When the young plants appear, keep them clean and well 
cultivated through the summer; in the fall take them up 
carefully, and put in well drained fine soil, so as to preserve 
their roots in the most perfect condition. It will be well, 
during the summer, to look over them frequently, and if 
any of them show disease in the leaf, pull them up at 
once, as it is useless to save such as are feeble and un- 
healthy. It may also be well to shade the young vines 
for the first month or so, to prevent the sun from scald- 
ing them while yet young and tender, and if any of them 
grow remarkably strong, give them small sticks for sup- 
port. In the following spring they may be transplanted 
to their permanent location in the vineyard or garden. 
The ground for their reception should be moderately 
light and rich, and loosened to the depth of at least 
18 inches. \/ 

Make a hole about 8 inches deep, then throw in soil 
so as to raise a small mound in the center of the hole, 
about 2 inches high ; shorten the top of the young vine 
to about 6 inches, and then place it on the mound, 
spreading its roots well in all directions; fill up with well 
pulverized soil, until the upper eye is even with the sur- 
face of the ground. Then press the soil lightly, place a 
good stake about 4 feet high with each vine, and when the 
buds start, allow but one sprout to grow, which is to be 
tied neatly to the stake. The vines may be planted in 
rows 6 feet apart, and 3 feet apart in the rows, as 
many of them will prove worthless, and have to be dis- 
carded. Allow all the laterals to grow on the young cane, 
as this will make it stocky and short- jointed. Cultivate 
well and frequently, keeping the soil loose and mellow. 

The second season the seedlings will generally make 
from 3 to 4 feet of short- jointed growth ; in the fall 
of that year they should be cut back to about three 



18 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

buds, and have the ground drawn up around them for 
protection in winter. Should any of them look very 
promising, fruit may be obtained a year sooner by graft- 
ing the wood of the seedlings upon strong vines. Young 
vines thus grafted will generally bear the next season (see 
" Grafting," on another page). Next spring, which will 
be their third, remove the covering, and when the young 
shoots appear, allow only tivo to grow. After these have 
grown about 18 inches, pinch oif the top of the weakest 
of the two shoots, so as to throw the growth into the 
strongest shoot, which is to be kept neatly tied to the 
stake or trellis, treating it as the summer before, and 
allowing all the laterals to grow. At the end of this 
season's growth they should be strong enough to bear the 
next summer. If they have made from eight to ten feet 
of stocky growth, the leading cane may be cut back to 
ten or twelve eyes, or buds, and the smaller one to a 
spur of two eyes. If the vines will fruit at all, they will 
show it the next summer, when only the most promising 
ones should be kept, and the barren and worthless ones 
discarded. Seedlings have this peculiarity : both the 
berry and bunch will increase in size every year for the 
first three or four years ; therefore, if the quality of the 
fruit is only good, the size may come in time. The fruit 
of the Elvira (of which more hereafter), which is now 
about as large in bunch and berry as Catawba, was at first 
not more than half its present size, it having increased in 
dimensions every year for the last eight years. 



AND WINE MAKING. 



19 



CHAPTER III. 

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS IN THE OPEN AIR. 

The easiest and most simple mode of propagating the 
vine is by cuttings planted in the open ground; it 
can be successfully followed with 
the majority of the Labrusca and 
cordifolia varieties, and a few of 
those from the (Bstivalis, although 
the latter will not take root 
readily, and had better be propa- 
gated by layering and grafting. 
The most general method is the 
following : In fall, when pruning 
the vines, choose the best ripened 
wood of medium size, which is 
better than either the very large 
or very small, and cut it into 
lengths of from 9 to 12 inches, 
cutting close below the lower 
bud, and about an inch above the 
upper, as in figure 1. 

Figure 2 shows a cutting with 
part of the old wood attached ; 
cuttings of this kind will generally 
root more readily than the other. 
These cuttings will mostly average 
three to four buds each ; tie them 
in convenient bundles of 100 to 
250 each, taking care to make 
their lower ends even, and keep 
them either in a cool, moist cellar, 
or bury them out-doors in well 
drained ground, with the upper ends downwards, cover- 
ing up well with finely pulverized soil. The making of 




Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 

CUTTINGS — ALL TSEW AND 
PART OLD WOOD. 



20 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

cuttings may be continued during winter, although they 
will root more readily if cut early, and there is also no 
danger of frost injuring the buds. 

In spring, so soon as the ground is dry enough, the 
cutting bed should be prepared. Choose for this a light, 
rich soil, pulverized at least a foot deep ; if not light and 
rich enough, it can be made so by welUdecomposed leaf 
mould. Make a cut along the whole length of the bed 
with the spade, deep enough to receive the whole length 
of the cuttings, and press these wall down into it, so that 
the upper buds are even with the surface of the earth ; 
fill up with loose soil, and press it down firmly with the 
foot along the line, so as to pack it well around the cut- 
tings. The cuttings may be put close in the row, say 1 to 
2 inches apart, and the rows 2 to 3 feet apart, so as to 
allow of cultivation either by hand, plow, or cultivator. 
After the bed is finished, mulch with spent tan, sawdust, 
or leaf mould, so as to protect the young shoots from the 
sun; maintain a moist and even temperature during sum- 
mer, and keep the soil open and porous. 

Keep the soil of the cutting bed clean during the sum- 
mer. The young vines will generally make a hard, firm 
growth 1 to 4 feet in length the first summer ; they 
will make their roots just where they ought to be, and 
will be by far the best plants for general use, being pre- 
ferable to vines raised either from single eyes or by 
layers. In the fall they should be carefully taken up, and 
heeled-in in well pulverized soil, deep enough to cover 
the crowns, first assorting, so as to make them as even 
in size as possible for planting. They are then ready for 
setting in the vineyard, and a good strong one-year-old 
vine is, beyond a doubt, the best for that purpose. 



AND WINE MAKING. 21 

CHAPTER IV. 

PROPAGATING THE VINE BY LAYERS. 

All Yarieties of the grape may be readily increased by 
layering, but it is especially valuable for those hard- 
wooded varieties of the cestivalis species, which will not 
grow readily from cuttings, and vines thus propagated 
will, if handled rightly, make very good plants. To layer 
a vine, shorten in the canes of the last season's growth to 
about one-half their length, then, early in the spring, pre- 
pare the ground by the use of the spade or fork, to 
thoroughly pulverize it. Make a small furrow about an 
inch deep, bend down the cane and fasten it firmly in the 
bottom of the furrow, with wooden hooks or pegs. The 
canes may be left thus until the young shoots have grown 
from 6 to 12 inches, then fill up around them with fine 
soil or leaf mould. Canes so layered will generally strike 
root at every joint. The shoots may be tied to small 
sticks, and when they have grown a foot, their tops should 
be pinched to make them more stocky. In the fall take 
them up carefully, commencing to dig at the end 
furthest from the vine, and separate the plants, by cutting 
between the joints, so that each shoot has a system of 
roots by itself. They are then either planted immedi- 
ately, or heeled in, as described for vines from cuttings, 
to be planted in the spring. 



22 AMEEICAK GRAPE GROWING 

CHAPTER V. 

GKAPTING THE VINE. 

The advantages of grafting are : 1. The facility by 
which new and rare varieties may be rapidly increased by 
grafting on strong, healthy old vines ; thus treated they 
often grow from 10 to 20 feet the first season, producing^ 
an abundance of wood to propagate from. A striking 
illustration of this may be seen in the vineyards of Messrs. 
Poeschel & Scherer, at Hermann, Mo., who commenced 
five years ago with five eyes of the Elvira, and now have 
2,500 bearing vines of that variety, all grafted on strong 
Concord stocks. 2. The short time in which fruit can 
be obtained of new and untried varieties, as the grafts 
will generally bear the second season. 3. The facility by 
which vines of varieties, the fruit of which may be worth- 
less, can be changed into valuable bearing vines. 4. The 
advantage it offers to us in avoiding that invidious enemy, 
the Phylloxera, as we can graft varieties, the roots of 
which are subject to its ravages on those kinds which are 
Phylloxera proof, and can facilitate the growth of natur- 
ally weak varieties, and make them more vigorous, by 
grafting on strong growing stocks. 5. Varieties which 
will not grow readily from cuttings can generally be 
grafted easily ; hence this method is especially valuable 
to increase the varieties of CBstivalis. 

The vine, however, does not graft with the same ease 
as the apple and pear, and it is, therefore, a more uncer- 
tain operation. Moreover, to insure success, it should be 
grafted below the ground, which makes it a disagreeable 
operation, and one quite difficult to perform, hence it 
will hardly become a general practice. But for the pur- 
poses above mentioned, the operation is sufficiently im- 
portant to make it desirable that every vineyardist should 
be able to perform it. 



AN'D WINE MAKIN'G. 



23 



Here, the best success generally is attained when we 
graft in March, although it may be done as late as May. 
Dig away the ground around the vine, until a smooth 
place upon the stem is found, then cut it off smoothly, 
and insert one or two scions, as in common cleft 
grafting, taking care to cut the lower part of 
the scion to a very thin wedge, as shown in 
figure 3, leaving two eyes on the scion to insure 
better success. Care should be taken to insert 
the scion properly, as the inner bark or liber of 
the vine is very thin, and the success of the 
operation depends upon a perfect junction of 
the stock and scion. If the vine is strong 
enough to hold the scion firmly, no bandage is 
necessary ; if not, the scion should be tied with 
a ligature of bast, or Bass-wood bark, applied 
evenly and firmly. Finish the operation by 
pressing the earth firmly around the cut, and 
fill up with fine soil to the top of the scion, or 
cover it up with sawdust. Examine the stock 
often, and remove all suckers that appear from 
time to time, as they will rob the graft of its 
nourishment. Do not be discouraged if the 
scion does not start at once. Scions will often 
remain dormant for a month, and then start 
and grow with astonishing vigor ; such are gen- 
erally more sure to grow than those which start 
prematurely, before a firm junction is effected 
between the stock and graft. This is an old 
method of propagating which has been very 
successful with me. Another, and a very good 
one, is the following: "'Make a slanting cut grafting. 
in the stock, from the side, downwards towards the 
middle, then cut your scion to a simple wedge, and 
push it down on one side, so as to join the bark of the 
stock. This has the advantage that the stock need not 



Fig. 3. 

SCION FOR 



24 AMERICAN" GRAPE GROWIN^G 

be cut off, in case the scion should not unite with it, 
and as the fibres of both scion and stock are cut trans- 
versely, the pores join better. As soon as the scion starts, 
cut off the stock above it, taking care, however, not to 
move the scion in the operation." 

The following is copied from the Seventh Annual Ee- 
port of the State Entomologist of Missouri (1875); the 
methods described are mostly to counteract the Phyllox- 
era, by establishing the graft upon Phylloxera proof 
roots, and preventing it from making roots of its own : 

^' There are several methods of grafting above ground, 
which I have every reason to believe may be made more 
successful than grape-growers have hitherto supposed ; 
the first is, by making a false surface and grafting in the 
manner just described, but instead of digging away the 
earth and inserting the scion several inches beloAv ground, 
it should be inserted above ground, and the earth thrown 
up around it, to be removed after the graft is thoroughly 
and permanently joined. There will be no danger of the 
graft forming its own roots, and it is certainly as easy to 
throw the earth around the vine as to dig it away, while 
the work can be more easily performed above than below 
the surface. No doubt this method of grafting needs 
greater care, especially in dry seasons, as the mound is 
more apt to dry out than the level ground. Yet there is 
evidence that this method will work well in our soil and 
climate. Mr. Jno. Vallet, of New Haven, Mo. , a grape- 
grower of much experience, has had good success in this 
grafting above ground, using flax twine and pawpaw bark 
for bandages. He considers that the vine grows more 
vigorously (which I am inclined to doubt), and that there 
is less danger of separating the graft when the union is 
once formed, as it is not necessary to go below ground 
to destroy the suckers, by which the grafts are sometimes 
disturbed." 

^' The second method is by inarching. This system of 



AND WINE MAKING. 25 

grafting does not seem to have been practised miicli in 
this country ; yet, while it requires great care, and may 
not be as generally successful as the former methods, I 
hope more attention will, in future, be given to it. The 
operation is simple : A slice of 2 or 3 inches long 
is cut from one side of the vine to be grafted with, and a 
similar slice from the one which is to serve as stock, as 
near to the base as possible (of course, graft and stock 
must be close together). The two cut portions are then 
brought face to face, so as to fit neatly, and are bound 
together with Bass-wood bark, or other grafting bandage, 
and wrapped in moss, which should be kept moist. In 
the course of a fortnight, partial union takes place, when 
the bandage should be slightly loosened, to allow of ex- 
pansion. In six or eight weeks, if successful, the stock 
and scion are firmly united, when the bandage may be 
removed. The graft immediately below the union, 
and the stock immediately above it, should then be 
cut in a week or two.'' This method has been success- 
fully followed by Mr. Eugene Cambre, of Nauvoo, 111. 

Mr. Cambre, in giving his experience, writes : " I 
have positively abandoned cleft grafting ; it is too much 
trouble and too uncertain, and the graft often makes its 
own roots. I assure you that from a long experience in 
inarching, I am of the opinion that not alone the Dela- 
ware, but most of our cultivated varieties, will do better 
on native wild roots than on their own. I have 14 acres of 
vines mostly grafted in this manner on wild stocks, and 
I have not lost one of such grafts. It is preferable to 
graft at from 10 to 15 inches from the ground." 

Another mode of grafting above ground is thus given 
in " The Cultivation of the^Grape," by W. C. Strong : 

"In ^The Gardeners' Monthly,' Vol. II., p. 347, is a 
description of a mode practised with success by Mr. Cor- 
nelius, which we copy, not merely as it is interesting in 
2 



20 



america:n^ gkape growing 



itself, bat also because it illustrates many other modifica- 
tions in grafting : 

' After the first four or five leaves are formed, and the 
sap is flowing, you choose the place on the vine where you 
intend to graft. At that point wrap tightly a twine sev- 
eral times around the vine. This will, in a measure, pre- 
vent the return sap. 

* Below the ligature, make a sloping cut down, as shown 
at figure 4, a ; also, a similar reversed 
one above the ligature, as at 5, about 
one inch in length. In selecting a 
scion prefer one that has naturally a 
bend. Cut it so that it shall be wed^e 
shaped at both ends, and a little longer 
than the distance between the cuts in 
the vine at a and b. Insert the scion, 
taking care to have the barks in direct 
contact, securing it with a string, c, 
bound round both scion and vine suf- 
ficiently tight to force the scion ends 
into their places. If the work is done 
well, no tie will be required at a and b, 
but the joints should be covered with 
grafting wax. In a short time, the 
bud at d will commence its growth, 
after which you can by degrees remove 
all the growing shoots not belonging 
to the scion, and in course of the sum- 
mer you may cut off the wood a,bove b, 
and in the fall remove all above a on 
the stock, and above c on the scion. " 
'' Still another mode of grafting 
remains to be mentioned, which has, I bcheve, seldom, 
if ever, been attempted in this part of the country, but 
which has been employed with much satisfaction the past 
year by a few vine growers in France, and especially by 




Fif?. 4.— GRAFTING 
ABOVE GROUND. 



AND Wli^E MAKING. 



;S7 



M. H. Bonscliet, of Montpelier. It is the winter graft- 
ing of a cutting of such variety as is desired to grow upon 
another which is to be used as stock, 
the combined cuttings being planted 
in the usual manner in spring, leav- 
ing only the buds on the graft 
proper out of the ground. This is 
very similar to our ordinary mode 
of making apple grafts ; and while 
we have little or no experience in 
this country on which to base antic- 
ipations, the method is worthy of 
trial, and is illustrated at figure 5." 

*'But not to w^eary with details, 
I here reaffirm my belief, strength- 
ened by each further observatioil, 
and by every additional experience 
of the past year, that just as the 
working of the Eoot-louse is the 
primal cause of failure of some of 
our choicest varieties of the grape- 
vine, so 'in judicious grafting we 
have the most available means of 
counteracting its work, and of thus 
growing successfully many of those 
kinds which cannot be grown in 
this latitude with any profit or 
success on their own roots." 

I have omitted propagation by single eyes, as this 
method is now only followed by nurserymen, for the pur- 
pose of increasing new and valuable varieties. As it in- 
volves the expense of a propagating house, it can be of 
little value to the vineyardist, and those who intend to 
follow it professionally, are generally proficient already. 




Fig. 6. Tig. 5. 

GRAFTED CUTTINGS— PART 
OLD AND ALL KEW WOOD. 



28 AMEEICAK GRAPE GROWING 

CHAPTER YI. 

THE VINEYARD.— LOCATION, ASPECT, AND SOIL. 

As the selection of a proper location for the vineyard 
is of first importance, and one of the main conditions of 
success, great care and judgment should be exercised, in 
the choice. Nearly any soil will grow grapes, at least for 
the table, and some yarieties are so hardy and thrifty, 
that they can be grown almost anywhere, but with 
grapes on a large scale, either for market or wine, or 
both, good and paying results will only be reached in the 
best locations. 

When writing my first little book I was under the im- 
pression that the hillsides along our larger streams were 
best adapted to the growth and health of the yine. 
After six years' experience in Southwest Missouri, on the 
prairies and high uplands removed from all larger 
streams, I have changed my opinion entirely, .and now 
believe that the dry atmosphere and cool breezes of these 
uplands are much more conducive to the health of the 
vine. We know but little of rot or mildew here, even in 
the last five exceedingly wet summers, when the grape 
crop along the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, with the 
exception of a few such ironclads as Norton's Virginia, 
Cynthiana, Ives, and Elvira, was almost a failure. 
Those localities may generally be considered safe for the 
grape, in which there are no miasmatic influences. 
Where malaria and fevers prevail, there is no safety for 
the crop, as the vine seems to be as susceptible to such 
influences as human beings. 

Keeping this fact in view, we may consider our high 
table lands and hillsides, where the vines are fully ex- 



Al^D WINE MAKING. 29 

posed to the prevailing winds in summer, our best loca- 
tions. These are also generally free from frost late in 
spring and early in fall, which is another important con- 
sideration for the vineyardist. The soil should be natur- 
ally well drained, as the vine does not like to have *^ wet 
feet;" therefore, tenacious sub-soils, so-called ^^ hard- 
pans," should be avoided. I have seen equally good 
results in limestone as in sandstone soils, though it will 
generally hold good that a sandy, and at the same time 
moderately rich soil, is better adapted to most of our 
varieties than heavy clay. AYe have thousands of such 
locations, and no where have I seen more beautiful grapes 
than on the sandstone hills around Warrensburg, in this 
State, (a neighborhood noted at the same time for its 
famous sandstone quarries,) although the hillsides, at first 
sight, appear rather poor. The professional grape-grower, 
therefore, can find abundant scope, and should certainly 
look after such locations. The amateur, however, who 
only wishes to grow grapes on a small scale, and for home 
use, can easily make his soil light by an addition of sand, 
and occasionally lime. Let him choose the spot on his 
grounds which seems best adaj)ted to his purpose, and 
although he may not grow as rich grapes, 3'et he will 
grow them good enough, and abundant enough, if he 
chooses the proper varieties. 



30 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

CHAPTER VII. 

PREPARING THE SOIL. 

For the preparation of the soil, the foundation of his 
work, the grape grower must be guided in his operations 
by the condition in which he finds his ground. If it is 
an old field, free from stumps and stones, or a piece of 
prairie soil, it will be easily prepared. Break up the soil 
with a good large turning plow and strong team to pull 
it, and follow in the same furrow with a subsoil stirring 
plow, which merely loosens the ground ; and do this as 
deep as possible, if 20 inches, all the better, though 16 
inches in all will do if you cannot go deeper. 

If, however, the land is a new piece of forest soil, the 
task will be much more difficult. This must be care- 
fully grubbed of stumps and roots, and although the same 
implements will, in a measure, suffice, yet the turning 
plow should have a sharp coulter in front, and the sub- 
soil plow should also have a strong and sharp coulter, 
with merely a wedge-shaped, strong share to stir the 
soil. Besides, much more power will be necessary. In 
stony soil, the pick and shovel must take the place of the 
plow, as it would be impossible to work it thoroughly 
with the latter ; but I thmk there is no advantage in the 
old method of trenching or inverting the soil. If we ex- 
amine the wild vines of our forests, we will generally find 
their roots running along in the surface soil. It is un- 
natural to suppose that the vine, the most sun-loving of 
all plants, should have its roots buried several feet below 
the surface, where neither sun nor air can reach them. 
Work tlie soil well and thoroughly, and as deep as you 
can, it will be labor well invested ; will be the best pre- 
ventive against drouth, and the best drainage m wet 
weather, but leave it in its natural position, and do not 



AND WINE MAKING. 31 

plant too deep. Rest assured if the roots find anything 
congenial below, they will hunt it up. Should the soil 
be very poor, it may be enriched by ashes, bone dust, 
manure, etc., but it will seldom be necessary, as most of 
our soil is naturally rich enough, and it is not advisable 
to stimulate the growth too much, as it will become rank 
and unhealthy, and impair the quality of the fruit. 

Wet spots may be drained by gutters filled with loose 
stones or tiles, and then covered with earth. Surface 
draining can be done by running a small ditch or furrow, 
every sixth or eighth row, parallel with the hillside, and 
leading into a main ditch at the middle or end of the 
vineyard. Steep hillsides should be terraced or benched, 
but as this is laborious and expensive, they should be 
avoided. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

WHAT GRAPES TO PLANT.— CHOICE OF VARIETIES. 

This io, indeed, a difficult matter to decide in a vast 
country like ours, where soil and climate differ so much, 
and I think it a great mistake into which some of our 
most prominent grape-growers have fallen, to recommend 
any grape for general cultivation, simply because it has 
succeeded with them. Grape growing is, j^erhaps, more 
than any other branch of horticulture, dependent upon 
soil and climate, and it will not do to dictate to the in- 
habitants of a country where the extremes meet, that 
they should all i^lant the same varieties. Yet this has 
been done by some who jjretend to be authorities, recom- 
mending the same grape for jolanting North and South, 
East and West, which certainly shows that they have 
more arrogance tlian knowledge. I have seen such widely 



32 AMERICA!^ GRAPE GROWING 

different results, in vineyards closely adjoining, that I 
have become reluctant to recommend, even to my nearest 
neighbor, what he should plant. 

In the East and North the demand is still for some- 
thing earlier than we yet have, while here in the West we 
do not desire the early grapes so much, at least, not for 
wine making purposes. The earliest, so far, seem to 
come from the Labrusca ; those who desire still earlier 
grapes, will have to look to these mostly, and it seems as 
if the Early Champion is a step in that direction, being 
better, and, as its friends claim, ten days earlier than the 
Hartford Prolific. Erom Southern Texas my friend and 
correspondent, G. Onderdonk, of Victoria, writes to me, 
that it is useless to cultivate the Labrusca there, as it 
will not succeed, and their grapes are emphatically tlie 
Warren (or Herbemont), and the Black Spanish (so-called, 
but the true Lenoir^, both belonging to mstivalis of the 
Southern class. The varieties of Labrusca cannot stand 
their summers, and this fact, with their failure in France, 
where also they can not stand their hot and arid sum- 
mers, lead me to the supposition that their tendency to 
root near the surface is the cause of it. The varieties 
of mstivalis and cordifolia all root deeper, and are, there- 
fore, better calculated to withstand the severe drouths. 

We, here in Missouri, are centrally located, and while 
it will be well to cultivate some of the early varieties of 
the Labrusca for market and early table, our reliance for 
the main crop will, in future, be the cestivalis and cordi- 
folia, all the more so, as they are exempt from the rav- 
ages of that insidious little enemy, the Phylloxera, to 
which the greater part of the Labrusca varieties are sub- 
ject, and which may be, in a great measure, the cause of 
their frequent failure. With tliese few general remarks, 
which may serve somewhat to guide the planter in a 
selection, I will now describe a few of the most promi- 
nent and reliable of each class of the older varieties. 




Fig. 7.— GCETHE (HOGERS' HYBRID NO. 1). 



(33) 



AND WINE MAKING. 35 

together with some of the most promising, giving at the 
end a list of varieties which promise to be generally suc- 
cessful for the East and North, one for the central sec- 
tion of our country, and one for the extreme South. 



. CHAPTER IX. 

LABKUSCA CLASS, WITH THEIR HYBRIDS. 

Concord. — This is too well known to need any particu- 
lar description. It was considered, until lately, one of 
the most reliable and productive, but for the last few 
years has rotted so badly, that it is now considered unre- 
liable by a great many. The fruit is of fair quality, 
very handsome, too soft to carry well to market, and 
will not keep. Will, with skillful handling and a little 
artificial heat, make a wine of fair quality, of a verv en- 
livening and invigorating character, which is emphati- 
cally the *^ poor man's '' drink, as it can be produced cheap, 
and is just the beverage he needs, instead of the poison- 
ous compounds called whiskey and brandy. A rampant 
and hardy grower, not subject to Phylloxera, and will, 
perhaps, bear more overcropping and neglect than any 
other. Has been very valuable, but I think will be 
superseded by better sorts so soon as they become better 
known. Specific gravity of must 76°. 

Catawba. — Also too well known to need description. 
Although very unreliable, it yet holds its place among 
wine grapes, especially on the Lakes, and although I 
would not recommend it generally, it does succeed in 
some sections, and is a good grape where it can be grown, 
making a high-flavored and sprightly wine. It is very 
much subject to the attacks of Phylloxera, and this alone 



36 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

is enough to make any one hesitate to plant it, when 
varieties so much better can be had. Specific gravity of 
must 80°. On a recent trip I have seen the Catawba in 
such perfection on the Lakes in Western New York, that 
it would seem to me it is still the grape for them. 
When they can grow from fifteen to twenty pounds to 
the vine, as I have seen on Crooked Lake, v/ithout a 
rotten berry, or blemish, and the must going up to 96°, 
they ought to plant Catawba still, although I do not 
consider it a perfect grape even there. 

Essex. — {Rogers^ Hyhrid No. 41). This is a beautiful 
and good grape, and with me, has generally given satis- 
faction. Bunch medium, shouldered ; berry very large, 
double the size of Concord, round, black, with blue 
bloom ; skin thin, pulp tender, juicy, sweet, and vinous, 
with hardly any native aroma. Vine a good grower, 
abundant bearer, and little subject to disease. Eipens 
with Concord. 

Gcethe. — {Rogers' Hybrid No. 1). For us in the West 
this is one of the most reliable and best of all the La- 
hrusca class, and has no foxiness, but some of the flavor 
of its vinifera parent. I have seen it succeed equally 
well near Baltimore and Washington City. Many have 
failed to succeed with this, and also others of the Eogers' 
H}?brids, for the simple reason that the vines are 
luxuriant growers and very abundant bearers, and the 
vines were taxed beyond their strength when young; did 
not ripen their fruit or wood well, and were enfeebled for 
years to come. But with rather short pruning, severe 
thinning of the fruit when young, and allowing the vine 
only from 10 to 15 lbs. of fruit per year, good results can 
be gained nearly every year. This will apply to all the 
Rogers' Hybrids. Bunch medium to large, rather loose, 
shouldered ; berry very large, oblong, very good when yet 
white, when it resembles the Malaga, pale red when fully 







r%. 8.— MAKTH4. 



(38) 



AND WIKE MxiKIJ^G. 39 

ripe; skin thin, pulp tender, juicy, sweet, and luscious, with 
fine Frontignan flavor. Fine for table and market, and 
makes a very delicate white wine, superior to Catawba. 
Specific gravity of must 80°. Vine a strong, rampant 
grower, with peculiar mottled foliage, ; generally healthy 
and hardy, though occasionally subject to rot. Ripens 
witli Catawba. Fine on the Lakes, though it develops a 
stronger feline flavor there. 

Ives. — Whoever is satisfied with a grape which is 
healthy and hardy, and an abundant bearer, but of very 
poor quality, may plant the Ives. I confess that I would 
rather not have any grapes if I could not have better 
than the Ives. It is well enough known to need no de- 
scription, and, in fact, deserves none^ but it will yield an 
abundance of fruit, which will color early, generally 
spoils the market for good grapes ; hangs well to the 
bunch, and will do for stewing and preserving, also 
makes a tolerable Claret wine, if allowed to hang very 
long, and fortified with sugar. ~ Specific gravity of 
must 72°. 

LiKDLEY. — {Rogers^ Hyhrid No. 7). Bunch large and 
long, moderately compact, shouldered ; berry medium, 
about the size of Catawba, round, pale red, with beautiful 
violet bloom, sweet, juicy, and high flavored ; skin not 
thick, but tough, which makes it keep excellently. 
Ripens about the same time as Catawba ; an abundant 
bearer, a strong, long-jointed grower, and a valuable table 
and market grape, especially on account of its keeping 
qualities, though too high flavored for wine. 

Martha. — Originated with Samuel Miller, at Calmdale, ^ 
Pa., and has long held its place as '^ the best white grape 
for everybody," on account of its health, productiveness, 
and fair quality for table and wine. It is a seedling of 
the Concord, and 9 decided improvement on it. Bunch 
medium, moderately compact, shouldered ; berry medium, 



40 AMEEICAN GRAPE GROWIl^G 

smaller than Concord, round, greenish-yellow, with white 
bloom ; skin thin, pulp softer than in Concord, juicy and 
sweet; good when just colored; when dead ripe it be- 
comes somewhat insipid and foxy. Vine a strong, 
healthy grower, succeeding on almost any soil ; fruit less 
liable to rot than Concord, and containing more sugar ; 
also retains but little of its foxy character in its wine, 
which resembles good Catawba. Specific gravity of must 
85°. This is certainly a valuable grape, as it is also even 
hardier than the Concord, but will now, it is very likely, 
be superseded by the Elvira. 

Massasoit. — A very early grape of excellent quality. 
Bunch medium, compact, shouldered ; berry above 
medium, pale red, with lilac bloom, slightly oblong, very 
juicy, svv'eet and fine flavored ; the best early grape I 
know, ripens about as early as Hartford Prolific, and 
when merely soft, is better than Hartford at its prime. 
Is full as early as Delaware, to my taste better, and will 
succeed more generally than that. A beautiful and good 
market and table grape, and also makes a very fine wine. 
Vine a good grower and bearer. Specific gravity of must 

Perkiks. — Those who do not object to a good deal of 
foxy aroma, will be pleased with this, as it is very early, 
hardy, and productive. Bunch medium, rather loose, 
shouldered ; berry oblong, pale red, with fine lilac bloom, 
sweet, but foxy; apt to dro]3 from the bunch when very 
ripe. Ripens as early as Hartford Prolific, healthy, 
hardy, and very productive ; generally sells well in mar- 
ket ; a strong grower, with thick, leathery leaves. 

Salem. — Bunch full medium, compact, shouldered ; 
berry large, round, of a peculiar brownish color, with 
lilac bloom ; juicy and sweet, with a peculiar pleasant 
aroma ; considered by Mr. Rogers to be the best of his 
Hybrids, but it is not so generally successful here as Goethe, 




w^^^ 

« 



^^^M 




Fig. 9.— WLLDEB (ROGERS' HYBRID NO. 4). 



(42) 



AND WINE MAKING. 43 

Lindley, Massasoit, and Wilder. It is very apt to over- 
bear, and should be thinned severely. Ripens about same 
time as Catawba. 

Telegraph, or Christine. — An early grape of very 
fair quality. Bunch medium, very compact, shouldered ; 
berry medium, black, with blue bloom, juicy, sweet, and 
good for so early a grape, as it ripens with Hartford Pro- 
lific. A strong and health}^ grower, dark brown wood, 
and very productive, though sometimes rotting severely. 

Wilder. — {Rogers' No. 4). A beautiful and very 
good grape. Bunch large and heavy, shouldered, moder- 
ately compact ; berry large, round, black, with blue 
bloom, tender pulp, sweet, juicy, and refreshing, without 
foxiness, ripens earlier than Concord, and is nearly as 
large and as good as Black Hamburg. Vine a good 
grower, and generally healthy, but very apt to overbear, 
and the fruit should be thinned severely. Fine for table 
and market, and makes an agreeable light, red wine. 
Specific gravity of must 78°. 

These are tlie most prominent and best tried of the 
Labrusca class. The following are of good quality, but 
have not been so generally tried ; they may be classed as 
'' Promising well " : 

Aminia. — {Rogers' 39). Bunch medium, moderately 
compact, shouldered ; berry full medium, round, black, 
sweet, vinous, very good. Ripens earlier than Hartford, and 
is much better in quality ; may, therefore, be valuable for 
early market. Somewhat subject to rot. Vine a good 
and clean grower, very productive. 

Barry. — {Rogers' 43). Bunch full medium, moder° 
ately compact, shouldered ; berry large, round, black, 
with blue bloom, in quality much like Wilder, though a 
little more astringent ; vine a good grower and bearer ; 
ripens with Concord. A handsome market and table 
grape. Very successful on the Lakes, and at Rochester. 



44 AMEKICAi^ GRAPE GROWIKG 

Beauty. — One of the seedlings of Mr. Jacob Rommel, 
a cross between Delaware and Maxatawney : has been 
vigorous and healthy so far ; a strong grower, and very 
productive. It has fruited seven years in succession. 
Bunch full medium, compact, shouldered ; berry about 
the size and color of Catawba, oblong, covered with lilac 
bloom. Ripens here the last week in August. Sweet, ex- 
quisite flavor ; thin, but rather tough skin, tender pulp. 
This promises to keep well, and as the bunches are very 
even and attractive in appearance, it may be a very valu- 
able market grape, as it is superior in quality to Dela- 
w\ire; and as it excels the Catawba in fine and delicate 
flavor, and is without its harshness and austerity in pulp, 
it will very likely make a very fine, high flavored wine. 
I consider this the most promising of all our varieties 
of the Labrusca. 

Black Eagle. — Originated with Mr. Stephen Under- 
hill, at Croton Point, N. Y. A hybrid of Labrusca and 
vinifera, A new early table grape of very fine quality. 
Bunch large, moderately compact, shouldered ; berry 
large, oval, black, with blue bloom, flesh rich and melt- 
ing, with little pulp. The vine is a straight, handsome 
grower, the leaf deeply lobed, dark green and heavy ; 
shape of the foreign. Very promising so far. 

Black Defiance. — Same origin as the preceding. A 
hybrid between St. Peters and Concord. Bunch large ; 
berry large, above Concord, black, with a fine bloom, 
sweet, vinous, and juicy ; ripens several weeks later than 
Concord, and should it prove healthy and hardy, is about 
the best late black table grape we have. 

Early Champiojt. — Brought out by J. S. Stone, 
Charlotte, New York. Said to be ten days earlier than 
Hartford Prolific, of better quality, very hardy and pro- 
ductive, and if this is so, it certainly deserves trial as an 
early market grape. 



AKD WliiTE MAKING. 45 

Eva. — A sister of the Martlia, raised by my friend 
Miller, at the same time^ but has been sadly neglected. 
Our friend Campbell claims that it is better than Martha. 
To me it seems to be nearly the same. 

Lady. — Mr. George W. Campbell claims for this that 
it is the best and earliest white grape now grown, 
and it is certainly a good and beautiful fruit, when just 
colored. I had occasion to taste it a number of times, 
and found it best when just soft ; the riper it gets, the 
more insipid and foxy it becomes. So far ft has not 
given satisfaction as a grower and bearer here, and has 
also rotted badly ; but friend Campbell generally knows 
whereof he affirms, and it must be good in Northern 
Ohio, from all I can learn. Bunch medium, compact ; 
berry full medium, pale yellow, with white bloom, pulp 
tender, sweet, juicy. Said to be ten days earlier than 
Concord. 

Triumph. — A hybrid between Chasselas Musque and 
Concord, grown by Geo. W. Campbell, Delaware, Ohio, 
and considered by him too late for that section, and 
wanting in character. Here in Missouri it ripens to per- 
fection, and is certainly one of the most attractive white 
grapes for the table I have yet seen. Friend Miller, of 
Bluffton, has it in propagation, and has fruited it sev- 
eral years. Bunch large and heavy, shouldered, moder- 
ately compact ; berry very l^rge, golden-j^ellow, transpar- 
ent, with delicate bloom ; skin thin, pulp tender, sweet, 
juicy, and excellent. Eipens about with CataAvba. It 
seems to be hardy and tolerably healthy, as it has rotted 
less than Concord, and it, therefore, certainly deserves a 
trial, as such grapes as it produces are a feast to any one, 
and would readily sell at 25 cents per pound. Succeeded 
finely here last summer. 

On a recent Eastern round among the vineyards of 
Western New 'York, I examined the following, which I 



46 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

think may safely be added to the list of " Promising 
well." The Prentiss and Mr. Kicketts' seedlings I saw 
on the grounds of the originators, at Crooked Lake and 
at Newburgh, and under circumstances which I thought 
not at all favorable to their highest develoj^ment. I 
think it my duty to state this, as I had been led to be- 
lieve that Mr. Eicketts' seedlings had been petted, pam- 
pered, and protected, all of which I found just the re- 
verse, and came to the conclusion that the treatment they 
received was not at all calculated to develop their best 
points. 

Brighton. — Seen on the grounds of Mr. E. Hooker, 
Rochester. Vine very productive, foliage moderately 
healthy, though perhaps not so healthy as Concord. 
Bunch large, shouldered ; berry medium, about size of 
Catawba, round, brownish-red, very handsome, sweet, 
without being insipid ; to my taste better than Dela- 
ware, because more vinous ; pulp tender, very juicy. 
Very promising. 

Early Dawn. — Good in quality, said to be very early, 
hardy, and productive. Bunch medium ; berry full me- 
dium, black, sweet, and good. 

Moore's Early. — Seen at the exhibition at Rochester. 
Although not very good in quality, it is a very handsome 
bunch and berry, and seems to be especially valuable at 
the North, on account of its extreme earliness. Bunch 
very large and shouldered, compact ; berry large, resem- 
bling Wilder in size and form, black, fair in quality, but 
not high flavored or tender in pulp. Its chief value seems 
to be its early ripening, vigor, and hardiness. 

Niagara.. — Seeds planted in 1868, first fruited by 
Hoag & Clark, of Lockport, N. Y., in 1872. Cross be- 
tween Concord and Cassady ; bunch very large and 
heavy, compact ; berry large, slightly oblong, semi-trans- 
parent, greenish-white, bronzed in sun* adheres well 



AND WINE MAKING. 47 

to the bunch, flesh tender, sweet and melting, good 
flayor, skin tough, and bears handling well ; said to be 
as early as Hartford in ripening, but keeps well on the 
vine ; foliage thick and healthy, vine strong grower and 
hardy, bears very abundantly. This is the description 
of the originators. They say that a vine four years 
planted, is bearing 40 lbs. of superior fruit. I saw the 
grape at Rochester, and was pleased with size of bunch, 
quality, and general appearance. A promising market 
grape. 

PocKLiNGTON. — This is, certainly, a '^big thing"; 
though not of the best, or even very good quality, will sell. 
A seedling from Concord, grown by John Pocklington, 
of Sandy Hill, Washington Co., N. Y. Vine a strong 
grower, with immense leaves, very heavy in texture, and 
is said to never mildew. Bunch very large and heavy, 
shouldered ; berry nearly an inch in diameter, pale yellow, 
covered with bloom, round, quality about like Concord. 
It was not fully ripe when I saw it. Mr. John Chorlton, 
who offers it for sale, claims that it becomes very juicy 
and sweet to the center. Very promising as a market 
grape. 

Duchess. — Originated with Mr. N. J. Cay wood, 
Ulster Co., N. Y., who also originated the Walter, and I 
will only hope that this will be more generally successful. 
Bunch medium to large, often 8 inches long, shoulder- 
ed, compact ; berry medium, round, greenish- white ; 
skin thin, flesh tender, without pulp, sprightly, rich and 
vinous. Its originator claims for it that it has been 
grown in different localities, North and South, for the 
last ten years, and has never failed ; that it has but one 
small seed, that it will hang on the vines until frost, bear 
transportation better than any other variety, and that it 
excels in growth the Concord, Clinton, and Taylor. 
When we remember how Mr. Caywood also claimed su- 



48 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

perior excellence and hardiness for the Walter, which has 
so utterly failed in most sections that it is now rarely 
seen, we would accept his testimony with a good deal of 
caution, and make allowance for his enthusiasm, but the 
quality and appearance of the fruit, as we saw it, certainly 
warrants trial. 

Prentiss. — This is now in the hands of that enter- 
prising grape-grower, T. S. Hubbard, of Fredofiia, N". Y., 
and not yet offered for sale. He sent me a bunch in 
1878, which impressed mo very favorably. The show at 
Eochester was grand, and I determined to see it on the 
grounds of its originator, and copy from the notes taken 
there. Mr. Prentiss is an enthusiastic grape-grower, but 
very cautious in recommending anything new, which, 
perhaps, has kept his seedKng in the dark so long, as he 
has fruited it for nearly twenty years. The original vine 
stands in rather a poor location, on the side of a ravine, 
and had an immense load of fruit, but made a good 
growth of wood nevertheless. I think its present crop 
would come to 25 lbs. at least. The bunches were all 
perfect, though backward in ripening. It is a seedling of 
Isabella ; bunch medium, very compact, occasionally 
shouldered ; berry medium, slightly oblong, resembling 
Eebecca very closely, and about the same quality, green- 
ish-white ; skin tough and firm, enabling it to carry to 
market in good condition ; sweet and good, though not of 
high character. Mr. Prentiss has quite a number of 
vines of it in bearing, in different parts of the vineyard, 
all heavily loaded. Foliage also resembles Eebecca, but is 
larger, not so deeply lobed, thicker, and more leathery. 
He ships to New York markets, and readily obtains 16 
cents per pound for all he can send of the Prentiss. The 
particular location near the lake may have something 
to do with this eminent success, but the grape certainly 
deserves trial as a market grape in other sections. I 
.think it lacks the sprightliness of a good wine grape. 



AND WINE MAKING. 51 

Mr. Pentiss has also two other seedlings, which I think 
highly promising, not yet named, of which I made the 
following notes : 

'No. 1. — Bunch very compact, seldom shouldered, me- 
' dium ; berry medium, round, black, with blue bloom, 
very sweet, pulp tender, buttery, taste pure, without 
foxiness, with considerable coloring matter in its skin. 
Ripens fully as early as Concord ; promising for red wine ; 
vine a good grower, healthy, and productive ; fruited 
about 5 years; never rotted. 

No. 2. — Bunch long, loose, not shouldered ; berr}^ 
round, a trifle larger than Catawba, dark red, pulp 
tender, vinous, fine flavor, better than Catawba, with n 
very pleasant mingling of acid and sweet ; seems to be 
healthy and productive ; fruited for the first time. 

Mr. Ricketts' seedlings : 

Foremost among these, in our estimation, is the 

Lady Washington, which is a magnificent grape, &nd 
its robust growth and large, leathery leaves, give promise 
of health elsewhere as well as in its native locality. The 
original vine has now fruited five seasons. It is a seed- 
ling of Concord, crosse'd with Allen's Hybrid. Bunch 
very large and long, rather loose, shouldered, often 
weighing a pound and a half ; berry full medium, round, 
white, with a rosy tint when exposed to the sun, trans- 
parent, juicy, sweet, and good. 

Jeffeeson. — This is now in the hands of Mr. J. G. 
Burrows, of Fishkill. Cross between Concord and lona. 
Vine vigorous and productive, leaves large, thick, downy, 
wood short-] ointed ; bunch very large, often with double 
shoulder, very compact ; berry large, roundish oval, 
light red, with thin lilac bloom, flesh meaty, or solid, 
tender, juicy, sweet, but si^rightly. 

Highland. — Good healthy leaf ; large, fine bunch ; 



62 AMERICAI^ GRAPE GROWIKG 

berry black, large, round, very showy, and good in 
quality. 

EiCKETTs' No. 1. — A hybrid of Israella and Muscat 
Hamburg, fruited for 10 years. Vine very vigorous and 
productive, wood short-jointed, leaves medium sized, 
lobed, thick, and overlap ; bunch very large, long, com- 
pact, shouldered ; berry large, oval, purplish-black, with 
thick gray bloom, flesh tender, juicy, sweet, rather rich, 
very good. A promising market grape. 

No. 11. — Hartford and Muscat. Strong grower, leaf 
hardy and healthy ; bunch medium, shouldered ; berry 
above medium, round, pale yellow, sweet, pulp soft, 
good. 

Plaket. — Concord and Black Muscat of Alexandria. 
Healthy and productive ; bunch large, loose, shouldered ; 
berry large, intermixed with some smaller ones, which 
have no seed, oblong, very tender pulp, juicy, sweet, fine 
flavor, slight taste of the Muscat. 

No. 502. — Hartford and lona. Leaf healthy ; bunch 
compact, heavy ; berry medium, black, with blue bloom, 
leathery, resembling Creveling in taste. 

No. 250. — Ives and Catawba. Strong grower, healthy 
leaf ; bunch heavy, shouldered, compact ; berry above 
medium, round, black, blue bloom ; skin tough, fair 
quality, very handsome, would be a splendid shipping 
grape. 

No. 331. — Concord and Herbemont. Foliage resem- 
bling Concord, healthy, and hardy ; bunch medium, com- 
pact, shouldered ; berry below medium, round, juicy, 
rather pulpy, makes a fine, red wine, with a slight almond 
taste. 

These are the most promising of the numerous seed- 
lings of the Ldbrusca and its hybrids which Mr. Ricketts 
has originated. He has also a number of cordifoUa seed- 



AKD WINE MAKIi^G. 5^ 

lings, which are highly promising, and to which I will 
refer when I describe that class. 

Mr. Jacob Madinger, of St. Joseph, Mo., has several 
Concord seedlings, which may be valuable as showy and 
handsome market grapes of good quality. I have only 
seen some dilapidated bunches, too ripe, and roughly 
handled ; the berries are much larger than Concord, and 
seem to be of very fair quality. 

Storm King.— Originated by Mr. E. P. Eoe, Corn- 
wall-on-the-Hudson, N. Y. Seems to be an accidental 
sport of a Concord vine, which, as he says, has borne 
the same mammoth fruit for twelve years. Bunch large 
and heavy, shouldered ; berry resembling Concord, but 
nearly twice as large, black, round, with very little foxi- 
ness; juicy, and good. 

Cottage. — By Mr. Bull, the originator of the Concord. 
This is very promising, seems to be a strong grower, 
earlier than its parent, and of much better quality. I 
hope to see more of it next season. 

The following are said to be of good quality, but are 
not sufficiently known to me to venture an opinion upon 
their merits : Cambridge, Challenge, Clover Street Red 
and Black, Columbia, Concord Chasselas, Concord Mus- 
cat, Conqueror, Dana, Detroit, Eureka, Flora, Gaertner, 
Herbert, Irving, Ithaca, Pollock, Rogers' 5, Senasqua. 

The following I consider worthlens, and think they 
should be discarded, as we can certainly grow better, or 
more healthy sorts. Some are of good quality, but 
tender or unproductive and unhealthy : Adirondack, 
Alexander, Agawam, Albino, Allen's Hybrid, Amanda, 
Anna, Arrott, August Pioneer, Berks, Bland, Blood's 
Bkck, Blue Imperial, Burton's Early, Camden, Canby's 
August, Cassady, Charter Oak, Clara, Macedonia, Cow- 
an, Croton, Diana, Diana Hamburg, Dracut Amber, 
Early Hudson, Elizabeth, Framingham, Graham, Hart- 



54 AMEEICAi^ GRAPE GROWING 

ford, Hettie, Howell, lona, Isabella, Israella, King- 
sessing, Labe, Logan, Lydia, Lyman, Creveling, Maguire, 
Mary, Maxatawney, Merrimac, Miles, Venango, Mount 
Lebanon, Mottled, Neff, North America, Northern Mus- 
cadine, North Carolina, Eebecca, Seneca, St. Catherine, 
Walter. 



CHAPTER X. 

THE ^STIVALIS CLASS.-FOR GENERAL CULTIVATION. 

Cynthiana. — Synonym, Red River. This most valu- 
able grape was obtained by me from Wm. R. Prince, who 
had it from Arkansas, and introduced it into Missouri 
about 1858. It resembled the Norton so much in growth 
and foliage, that I supposed it to be identical with it, un- 
til it bore fruit, and more especially when I made wine 
from it, when the difEerence became very apparent. This 
seeming identity has prevented its dissemination, as many 
still believe it to be the same, but the bunch is generally 
heavier, with broader shoulders, the berry somewhat 
larger, sweeter, and less astringent, and the wine is not 
quite as dark, less rough and astringent, without that 
coffee-like taste of the Norton, and much more spicy and 
delicate, resembling the best Burgundy. Those who 
have tasted good Cynthiana wine once, will not easily 
forget it ; and the fact that, besides the innumerable 
premiums awarded in this country, it was awarded the 
first premium as ^^ best red wine of all nations," at the 
Vienna Exposition, should speak volumes in its praise, 
and warrant the belief, so often expressed by me, that it 
will become one of the staples of the country, and can not 
be excelled anywhere. Bunch medium, compact, shoul- 
dered ; berry below medium, black, with blue bloom. 



I 



AKB WIKE MAKIKG. 57 

sweet, and vinous, with dark-red juice, moderately juicy, 
very rich. Specific gravity of must 118°. Vine a good 
grower, healthy, and hardy, but does not grow readily 
from cuttings, and will not bear much before the third 
year, when it becomes very productive ; not liable to any 
disease, and one of the surest we have ; will bear best on 
spurs on old wood, like the Norton's. 

Norton's Virgin^ia. — Synonyms, Norton's Seedling, 
Virginia Seedling. Introduced by Dr. Norton, of Vir- 
ginia, who found it on an island in the Potomac. Intro- 
duced into Missouri in 1850. It caused a revolution in 
grape culture here, as its merits as a uniformly reliable 
grape for red wine became fully known. There is, per- 
haps, no other grape which has given such uniform satis- 
faction as this, and although I have warmly praised and 
recommended it from the first, I have seen no reason to 
retract a single word which I have said in its favor. It 
seems to succeed everywhere, though its products, of 
course, differ, and I had occasion to admire a splendid 
exhibition of it at the Centennial, from Egg Harbor City, 
New Jersey, where I first saw it, and had occasion to try 
its wine. As made there, it has not the heavy character 
of our Missouri Norton's, but is a very good Claret. 
Bunch and berry smaller than Cynthiana, and not so 
heavily shouldered ; berry small, black, with blue bloom, 
with a very dark-colored, astringent juice, though sweet 
and very spicy when fully ripe. Specific gravity of must 
110°. Makes, perhaps, the best medicinal wine in the 
country; it has already saved thousands of lives, especially 
of children suffering with summer complaint, and ac- 
quired a world-wide reputation. Even as a table grape, 
many prefer it on account of its spicy character, and its 
plump bunches will keep like winter apples. Perfectly 
free from Phylloxera and other diseases ; a strong and 
healthy grower ; bears best on spurs on old arms. As 
it starts late in spring, it is also not liable to spring frosts. 



58 AMERICAK GRAPE GBOWIKG 

Hebbemont. — Synonyms, Warren, Warrenton, Herbe- 
mont's Maderia. A specifically Southern grape, for which 
we in Missouri are too far north, but where it is in its 
proi)er latitude, one of the very best. Bunch large and 
heavy, compact, shouldered; berry below medium, black, 
with blue bloom ; skin thin, no pulp, but its berries are 
filled with the most spicy and refreshing juice, which that 
nice discriminator of fruits, the late A. J. Downing, 
called ''bags of wine.'' Fine for the table, and wlien 
pressed immediately, makes an exquisite ivJiite wine ; if 
allowed to ferment on the husks, a pale red wine, some- 
what resembling Madeira. Should be planted on south- 
ern locations, in rather poor soil, which is naturally well 
drained ; it is useless to plant it on rich soils, or those 
retentive of moisture, as it will grow too rampant, and 
not ripen its wood. My friend, Onderdonk, of Victoria, 
Texas, writes to me, that it is the best and most success- 
ful grape they cultivate, and it has for several years been 
largely imported into France, as its roots are Phylloxera 
proof, and it succeeds splendidly there. Eipens rather 
late, and is somewhat tender even here. It promises to 
make the foundation of a race of true ivine grapes, and if 
we can obtain seedliugs of it, with all the good qualities 
of the parent, but somewhat earlier and more hardy, they 
will be all that can be desired. Mr. Onderdonk already 
reports one seedling, the Harvard, in all respects similar 
to the Herbemont, but double the size, and may become 
exceedingly valuable. The Herbemont is a strong and very 
beautiful grower, very productive, but somewhat subject 
to a peculiar kind of dry rot. Leaves large and thin, 
light green, deeply lobed. Specific gravity of must 85°. 




Fig. 13.— HERBBMONT. 



AKD WIKE MAKING. 61 

CHAPTER XL 

THE ^STIVALIS CLASS.— VARIETIES PROMISING WELL. 

CuKKii^GHAM. — Synonym, Long. Much like the fore- 
going in bunch and berry, belonging to the southern 
branch of the cestivalis class. Bunch very compact, 
heavy-shouldered ; berry smaller than Herbemont, brown- 
ish red, with blue bloom ; skin tougher and thicker, 
ripening about the same time. Not so good for the 
table, but will make a very heavy wine of a Sherry char- 
acter, while the Herbemout is more like Rhenish wine. 
The must is very rich in sugar, but also in acid, and the 
grape very high flavored. A very strong, short- jointed, 
late grower, ripening not even as well as the Herbemont, 
and should, therefore, be cultivated only in the South. 
It succeeds splendidly in France, and is very highly 
esteemed there for its fruit, as well as its total resistance 
to Phylloxera. It has heart-shaped leaves, not lobed. 
Specific gravity of must 110°. 

Lekoir. — Synonyms, Devereaux, Black Spanish, 
Jacques, Jack Grape. There has been a great deal of 
confusion about this grape, and it has even been con- 
founded with the Ohio, or Cigar Box, but I think the 
above is its true name. It is the same which the 
French have cultivated as Black Spanish, or Jacques, and 
value so highly, owing to its success in France ; its entire 
freedom from Phylloxera, and the excellent red wine it 
makes. I have been thoroughly sifting the question of 
its identity, and Mr. Onderdonk, who says it is the 
best grape they grow in Texas, next to the Herbemont, 
has been indefatigable in his exertions to help me clear 
up this matter. It is even more southern in its character 
than the two foregoing. Bunch very long, loose, shoul- 



62 AMEEICAN GRAPE GROWIKG 

dered ; berry small, black, with blue bloom ; skin as tbin 
as Herbemoiit, no pulp, juice very dark red, sweet, and 
ricb, making a splendid deep red wine of exquisite flavor. 
Specific gravity of must 110". I have cultivated the vine 
for a number of years, but had to abandon it, as it evi- 
dently is too far north here; iii the South it must be 
very desirable. Vine a strong, rather long-jointed 
grower, wood brown, leaves very thin, bright green, 
deeply lobed. 

Hermai^n. — A seedUng of the Norton, grown by Mr. 
Francis Langendoerfer, Hermann, Mo. Bunch long, 
shouldered, moderately compact ; berry smaller than 
Norton's, black, with blue bloom, not very juicy, but 
very high flavored, juice not so dark, and will make a 
fine golden Sherry wine, if properly handled. It ripens 
later than Norton's, and as it is a strong grower and very 
productive, is certainly worthy of extensive trial here and 
further south. Specific gravity of must 110°. Mr. 
Langendoerfer has grown a white seedling of it, resem- 
bling the parent in berry and bunch, but of a transparent, 
golden color, of which I have tried the wine, and must 
pronounce it the most exquisite w;ne I ever tasted, of a pale 
yellow color, witli the Hermann flavor trebly refined. He 
also has a white Norton's Seedling, which also makes 
fine wine, and as these two are the first white CBstivalis 
yet produced, they promise a new departure in another 
direction from this valuable class. Very productive, 
healthy, and hardy at Sedalia last season. 

RuLANDER. — This is not the German grape of this 
name, but also one of the southern cestivalis class. It 
also makes a very fine wme, of a Sherry character, but 
has, of late, become rather unproductive. Bunch small, 
compact, shouldered ; berry small, brownish black, with 
blue bloom, very sweet, and high flavored. Specific 
gravity of must 112°. It is a stocky, short-jointed 



AND WINE MAKING. 63 

grower, with grayish wood, heart-shaped, shining leaves, 
and sometimes very productive, but rather fickle and 
variable. The same may be said of the Louisiana, which 
so closely resembles it that it has been confounded with 
it, but the wine of the Louisiana resembles a very fine 
Hock, while the Rulander has a Sherry character. 

Alvey, or Hagar. — An exquisite little grape, the 
earliest of that class ; so good that the birds will gener- 
ally take it all. Bunch medium, shouldered, loose ; berry 
small, shining black ; skin thin, very juicy, sweet and 
luscious, one of the best in qualicy I know, and makes a 
fine red wine. Specific gravity of must 90°. A stocky, 
short-jointed grower, with heart-shaped leaves, and about 
the only one of its class which propagates readily from 
cuttings. 

Lincoln. — This I suppose to be identical with Black 
July. Mr. Phifer, of Concord, North Carolina, where it 
is considerably cultivated, gives it very higli praise, as 
being productive and healthy, and making a fine, high- 
flavored, light-red wine. I have grafts of it grow- 
ing ; it has heart-shaped leaves, and seems to be a good 
healthy grower. 

Baldwin Lenoir. — Mr. Saunders, Supt. of Public 
Grounds, at Washington, thinks very highly of this, 
and as it has fruited for me last year, I can also testify 
to its good quality. The vine resembles the Norton, 
in wood and leaf. Bunch small, very compact, shoul- 
dered ; berry small, round, black, with blue bloom, also 
resembling Norton, but to my taste sweeter, more juicy, 
and high flavored. I have no doubt it will make a first 
class red wine, and should it prove as productive as the 
Norton and C3rnthiana, will be very valuable. 

Neosho. — This is a wild grape from the woods, culti- 
vated by Mr. Hermann Jaeger, of Neosho, Mo. That 
veteran in grape culture, Fr. Muench, of Warren Co., 



64 AMERICAK GRAPE GROWING 

Mo., thinks this one of the best grapes he cultivates. It 
is a strong, rampant grower, very productive, but like 
all of its class, very difficult to propagate. Bunch heavy, 
compact, shouldered ; berry below medium, purplish- 
black, with blue bloom, not very juicy ; the juice is of a 
much lighter red than that of the Norton, and has a diff- 
erent flavor, more resembling Sherry. There has been 
some confusion between this and the Eacine, of same 
origin, but I think the Neosho much more valuable than 
Eacine. 

Far West. —Mr. Muench also speaks very highly 
of this variety, which comes from the same neighborhood, 
and I place great confidence in his judgment. 

Mr. Jaeger recently sent me a box of eight varieties of 
grapes, and although I tested them nearly three weeks 
after they had been sent, I was surprised to find, even 
after so long a time, such evidences of decided merit. 
I give descriptions of them as they appeared to me then, 
and have no doubt that, under the circumstances, it falls 
far short of what they are when fresh from the vine. As 
they all come from the same stock, the wild (Bstivalis, 
they show perhaps as much improvement as those of any 
other class. 

Jaeger's No. 9. — Bunch compact, shouldered ; berry 
below medium, round, black, with blue bloom, fine flavor, 
sweet, and good. Promising for wine. 

Jaeger's No. 13. — Bunch large and heavy, compact, 
shouldered ; berry medium, black, pulpy, dark juice, 
good flavor. Promising for red wine. 

Jaeger's No. 22. — Bunch very heavy, large, and long, 
compact ; berry about size of Catawba, round, deep 
purple, sweet, and good. Not as dark a juice as 9 and 13. 

Jaeger's No. 32. — ^Yery similar to Norton's, but ex- 
ceedingly sweet ; must make a very heavy, dark colored 
wine. 



AND WIl^E MAKIi^G. 65 

Racine. — The least valuable, very sweet, but small 
berry, very pulpy, and full of seeds. 

Neosho. — Larger bunch and berry than Racine, more 
juicy, fine flavor, bunch and berry larger than Norton's, 
lighter colored juice. 

White Norton. — Originated with F. Langendoerfer, 
near Hermann, Mo. Bunch and berry resembling Nor- 
ton in size, but white ; sweet, fine flavor, and very juicy, 

Balsiger's White Norton. — Berry larger than the 
preceding, more juicy, fine flavor, resembling Elvira 
somewhat, very good. 

Discarded Varieties. — Baxter, Ohio, Pauline, Raabe. 
These are either too unhealthy, or of too poor quality to 
be worthy of cultivation. 



CHAPTER XII. 

CORDIFOLIA class (or riparia, according to Engelmann). 

This class, so far only represented by varieties of either 
indifferent quality, such as Clinton, Anghwick, Blue 
Dyer, Burroughs, Franklin, Huntingdon, Kitchen, New- 
ark, Marion, Oporto, or such as are rather unproductive 
or subject to disease, as the Autuchon, Brant, Canada, 
Cornucopia, Golden Clinton, and Taylor, also has taken 
a new departure, with the seedlings from Taylor, raised 
by Mr. Jacob Rommel, and now promises to furnish us 
the leading white wine grapes of the country, and like- 
wise valuable market grapes. Had their originator pro- 
duced nothing but the Elvira, he would be remembered by 
generations to come, but he is confident that he can still 



QQ AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

surpass it in quality, if not in productiveness and hardi- 
ness, for the latter would be impossible. Guided by the 
idea that the Taylor need only be improved in size and 
productiveness, as its wine was good enough, he sowed 
the seed of the best Taylor grapes he could find, and 
now, after nine years of trial with the Elvira, in which it 
has never missed an abundant crop, and after careful 
tests of the wine, I do not hesitate to call it the most 
useful, and in that sense, the best white grape we have, 
and were I restricted to one variety only, would unhesi- 
tatingly choose this. As it is not near as well known as 
it deserves to be, I will give a full description of it, and I 
think I can do the grape-growers of our country no greater 
service, than in prevailing upon them all to try it. 

Elvira. — Originated with 3Tr. Jacob Rommel, of 
Morrison, Mo. , from seed of the Taylor, and fruited first 
in 1869, but has since improved every year in size of 
bunch and berry, until, from a very small berry, with 
small but compact bunch, it has now become as large as 
Catawba in berry, and almost as large in bunch. Every 
one should plant it for the following seven reasons : 

1. Its extreme hardiness. It has withstood the ex- 
tremely cold winters of 1872-'73 and 1874-'75, without 
the slightest injury ; when even the Concord suffered 
more or less everywhere throughout the State, the Elvira 
produced a full crop. 

2. Its freedom from disease. It has proved singularly 
healthy and produced full crops for ten years in succes- 
sion ; when nearly all varieties rotted badly (except Ives, 
:N"orton's, Cynthiana, and some other seedlings of Mr. 
Eommel, of whom I shall speak hereafter), the Elvira 
produced a full crop, averaging, in Mr. Rommel's vine- 
yard, from 20 to 25 lbs. to the vine. 

3. Its immense productiveness. All the fruit-bearing 
branches produce from four to six bunches, and a piece 




Fig. 13.— ELVIRA^ 



(67) 



AITD WINE MAKIl^G. 69 

of a bearing cane with clusters about a foot long, weighed 
eight pounds. 

4. Its handsome and vigorous growth. It is a stocky, 
short-jointed grower, not rambling, like the Taylor and 
Clinton, but a perfect picture of a vine, havmg thick, 
light green and abundant foliage, with pale gray, short- 
jomted wood, and is, therefore, well adapted to vineyard 
and arbor culture. 

5. Its handsome bunch and berry. This has improved 
very much since it first fruited, and may still improve. 
Bunch medium, shouldered, very compact ; berry about 
the size of the Catawba, round, light green in the shade, 
pale yellow where more exposed, transparent; skin, thin, 
pulp tender, very Juicy and sweet; flavor fine, pure, with- 
out foxiness, ripening a few days later than Concord. 

6. Its fine quality for wine. The must of the Elvira is 
about as heavy as good Catawba, if well ripened. Specific 
gravity 85°. Makes a beautiful greenish-yellow wine, 
without foxiness, and a delicate and full aroma, resemb- 
ling Eiesling. In this respect it will satisfy even the 
most fastidious fancier of Rhenish wines, and as it can be 
produced cheaply, we shall have in it what we have been 
seeking so long, a true wine grape within the reach of all. 

7. Easy propagation. It grows readily from cuttings, 
and being a Taylor seedling, is likely to be Phylloxera 
proof, and remain healthy. 

We are, however, in justice, compelled to say, that it 
has one fault, which has proved a serious drawback to it 
in the East during the season of 1879. The bunch is so 
compact, that the berries crowd each other, and being 
very thin skinned, they are liable to crack after a drouth, 
succeeded by a shower of rain. Otherwise, it has proved 
a complete success, even at the East. 



70 AMEEICAK GEAPE GROWING 

CHAPTER XIII. 

THE CORDIFOLIA CLASS.— VARIETIES PROMISING WELL, 

The following are sisters of the Elvira, and may sur- 
pass it m quality, but have not been so long and gener- 
ally tried ; moreover Mr. Rommel does not intend to 
send them out immediately, if at all, for he says : '' The3r 
shall prove best in every respect, or not go out at all, 
as the public have already varieties enough, even too 
many, unless we can add to the number something much 
better than we already have. There shall be no humbug 
in my grapes." They have fruited six years now, and I 
also have them fruiting this summer, in an entirely differ- 
ent locality ; two seasons of further trial will fully show 
what they are. No one need apply, either to him or me, 
for any vines or wood until some months yet. 

No. 5. Transparent. — (Taylor seedling). Bunch 
medium, somewhat larger than the largest Taylor, and 
has increased in size already, compact, and shouldered ; 
berry about same size as Taylor, round, pale yellow, trans- 
parent, so that the seeds can be seen, with gray dots, no 
pulp, skin thin, very juicy, sweet, and of fine flavor. 
This has always set its fruit perfectly, and as its must 
contains a large amount of saccharine matter, will make a 
wine which has hardly had its equal yet. Vine a strong 
and rather long-jointed grower, resembling its parent in 
leaf and growth. 

No. 8. Amber.— (Taylor seedling). Bunch large, 
shouldered, moderately compact ; berry medium, oblong, 
pale amber when fully ripe, sweet, juicy ; pulp very ten- 
der ; skin thin, very fine flavor. Ripens about the same 
time as Catawba, very productive so far, and entirely 
hardy and healthy. An exquisite table grape, combining 
fine quality with attractive appearance, though its skin 




(71) 



Ai^D WIl^E MAKING. 73 

may be too tender to ship to clistaut markets. It will, 
no doubt, also make a very fine white wine. A strong 
grower, dark brown wood, large and healthy leaves. 

]N"o. 10. Pearl.— (Taylor seedling). Bunch heavy, 
larger than Elvira, compact, shouldered ; berry full me- 
dium, round, pale yellow^ covered with a delicate bloom; 
skin thin and transparent; pulp soft and melting, juicy, 
sweet, and high flavored; of great promise both as a table 
and wine grape; very productive and healthy so far. 
Ripens a few days later than Concord. Vine a strong 
healthy grower, large, bright green leaves, and grayish 
wood. 

Mr. R. has a great number of other seedlings. One, a 
Delaware seedling, black, which ripens four or five days 
before the Hartford, and may become valuable as an early 
market grape, as it is of good quality! No. 12, much re- 
sembling Elvira, may also be valuable. 

No. 20. — A black Taylor seedling, with a peculiar plum- 
like consistency and flavor, very agreeable. Another ac- 
cidental seedling which Mrs, Rommell found and saved, 
is the most delicate berry I ever saw, with a skin as thin 
and transparent as cobwebs, pale green, no pulp, and 
very sweet ; flavor, pure. So far the bunch is very loose, 
though it sets an immense number of them. Mr. Rom- 
mel made some wine of it this fall, which he thinks the 
finest he has yet tasted. Should the bunch imj^rove, it 
may become one of our most valuable wine grapes. 

No. 14. —A black Taylor seedling, which promises very 
highly for red wine. A seedling of the Elvira, which he 
thinks far superior to its parent, has fruited but once, 
and shows evidences of great merit. 

Uhla>^d. — This is another Taylor seedling, highly 

promising for white wine, grown by Mr. Wm. Weyde- 

meyer, at Hermann. It makes a heavier and higher 

flavored wine than Elviia, but the leaf is hardly so heavy 

4 



74 AMERICAN GEAPE GEOWII^G 

and healthy, suffering more from sun scald. Bunch me- 
dium, compact, shouldered ; berry medium, pale yellow 
in the shade, pale amber in the sun, slightly oblong ; skin 
thin, transparent; juicy, and high flavored. Very pro- 
ductive and hardy, and generally healthy. Vine a strong, 
somewhat long- jointed grower, wood grayish, leaf re- 
sembling Taylor. Specific gravity of must 95°. Has 
fruited for four or five years, and the wine is highly 
praised by connoisseurs, as resembling heavy Khenish 
wine. 

Missouri Rieslin'G. — This was originated by Mr. 
Nicolas Grein, of Gasconade Co. , Mo. It is evidently a Tay- 
lor seedling, and has proved very hardy, healthy, and pro- 
ductive wherever tried. Vine vigorous and very healthy ; 
leaves thick and healthy ; a short-jointed grower, very 
productive. Bunch medium, moderately compact, shoul- 
dered ; berry rather below medium, round, greenish- 
white, juicy, and free from pulp ; fine quality ; said to 
make an exquisite white wine. 

Noah. — Originated by Edward Wasserzieher, Nauvoo, 
111., from seed of the Taylor. Bunch medium, shoul- 
dered, moderately compact ; berry medium, round, pale 
yellow, with white bloom ; very sweet, but rather hard 
pulp, good flavor ; said to be very productive and hardy. 

The following are Clinton seedlings, grown by Mr. 
James H. Ricketts, of Newburgh, N. Y. : 

PizARRO. — Seedling of Clinton and a foreign grape, 
foliage resembling Clinton, productive; bunch long, rather 
loose ; berry medium, oblong, black, very juicy and spicy ; 
promising for wine. A sample of wine made from it was 
of light red color, with very fine aroma. 

Bacchus. — Very healthy, and enormously productive, 
as the original vine bore about 1,000 bunches this season, 
all perfect. In 1877, the same vine yielded nine gallons 
and a quart of juice ; a seedling of Clinton, wiiich it re- 



AND Wli^E MAKING. 75 

sembles in leaf, biincli, and berry, but is much better. 
Bunch medium, compact, shouldered ; berry below me- 
dium, black, with blue bloom; juicy, and sprightly. The 
must weighs from 95° to 110°. Some wine from it which 
I tasted, was brownish-red, sprightly, very heavy, and of 
line flavor. 

Ariadne. — Clintons seedling ; promising for wine, but 
so overloaded that it could hardly be called a fair test ; 
bunch compact, resembling Clinton, but very much bet- 
ter, very juicy and sweet ; juice dark. Some wine I 
tasted was light-red, very heavy, with fine flavor. 

Naomi. — Vine vigorous, very productive, a hybrid of 
Clinton and one of the Muscats, fruited ten years, leaves 
very large, coarsely serrated. Bunch very large, shoul- 
dered ; berry medium, roundish oval, pale green, often 
with a tinge of red in the sun, covered with white bloom; 
flesh juicy, melting, sweet, and sprightly ; ripens with 
the Concord. 

No. 234. — A white grape, with foliage like Clinton ; 
makes a very fine, deep yellow wine with a slight Sherry 
flavor. 

No. 231. — Clinton hybridized with foreign. Vine pro- 
ductive ; makes a straw-colored wine, somewhat sweet ; 
must 104°, fine flavor. 

No. 413. — A seedling of Bacchus. Vine vigorous and 
healthy. Bunch medium, compact, seldom shouldered ; 
berry medium, black, with blue bloom, spicy, and very 
sweet ; promising for light-red wine, and as a good table 
grape. 

These are the most promising of Mr. Eicketts' grapes 
that 1 saw. He has a multitude of others, all fine, but 
either not healthy enough, or not good enough in quality, 
to compare with these. How they will do in other sec- 
tions and on other soil remains to be proved, but at his 
place tkey certainly are very fine. 



76 AMERICAjq- GRAPE GROWIN'G 

The success of Mr. Eicketts in producing qualit}^, at 
least, from the Clinton, has been as marked as that of 
Mr. Rommel, and should some of his seedlings prove 
generally successful, the Clinton may become the pro- 
genitor of as valuable a class of red, as the Taylor of white 
wines. Some of the samples I tested with him, were very 
fine indeed, and entirely distinct from anything tasted by 
me before, while all show extraordinary keeping qualities. 
Taking into consideration the small quantities in which 
these wines were made, and all the disadvantages under 
which he labored in producing them, they were some- 
thing remarkable indeed. I have already referred to the 
varieties which I think ought to be discarded, now that 
we have so many better ones, but we ought to hold the 
Taylor and. Clinton in grateful remembrance, for the off- 
spring they have given us, and as nearly all of them seem 
to have Phylloxera-proof roots, we may look to the 
CBstivalis and cordifolia as likely to become the founda- 
tion of the new era of viticulture for the whole civilized 
world. California, which seems to be the home par ex- 
cellence of the vmifera, is now importing our cordifolia 
and cestivalis varieties. Her vineyards are threatened by 
as wide-spread a devastation as those of France, and as 
the cordifolia has the advantage of easy propagation and 
rank growth over the CBstivalis, which is difficult to prop- 
agate, we may naturally suppose that this class will take 
the lead. Verily, this country has seen great changes 
within the last ten years, and in none of the fruits have 
these been more marked than in the grape. 



AND WINE MAKING. 77 

CHAPTER XIY. 

VARIETIES DIFFICULT TO CLASSIFY, ETC. 

I think that the following may be crosses between the 
CBstivalis and vinifera, as they are distinct from all others, 
l)ossessmg some of the characteristics of both these classes, 
and are very subject to the attacks of Phylloxera. 

Creveling. — Synonyms, Catawissa Bloom, Columbia 
County, Bloomsburg, Laura Beverly. Vine hardy, a mod- 
erate grower and bearer, with thm, deeply-lobed leaves. 
Bunch medium, shouldered, loose ; berry medium, round, 
black, with blue bloom, nearly as early as Hartford, sweet, 
and good, carries well to market, but is apt to set imper- 
fectly. Supposed to have originated in Pennsylvania ; 
not desirable in most sections. 

Delaware. — Synonyms, Heath, Italian Wine, German 
Grape, Traminer [erroneously). Downing says : ** It was 
found many years ago in the garden of Paul H. Prevost, 
Frenchtown, Hunterdon Co., N. J." It may be a hy- 
brid of vinifera and cBstivalis, but is certainly not the 
Traminer of Germany, as was claimed by some. It was 
introduced by Mr. Thompson, of Delaware, Ohio, and 
extensively propagated and unduly praised by Dr. Grant, 
cf lona Island, New York, who urged it for general cul- 
tivation througli the country. The sequel has shown 
how little it was adapted to general culture. It seems 
to do very well in certain localities East and North, and 
where it does, it is certainly a nice little grape, sweet 
and luscious for the table, and makes a fine wine. In 
the West and South it has not generally given much 
satisfaction, as its leaf seems too tender to withstand our 
liot suns and sudden changes. It is also very subject to 
Phylloxera, almost as much so as a vinifera, but could, 
perhaps, be improved by grafting on healthy and hardy 



78 AMERICAi^ GRAPE GROWING 

stocks. It needs a rich, sandy soil, and close pruning, as 
it is exceedingly productive, apt to overbear and then drop 
its leaves. Bunch below medium, compact, shouldered ; 
berry below medium, oblong, pale red, with beautiful 
lilac bloom ; skin not thick, but tough, very sweet, high 
flavored, and juicy. Eipens before the Concord. Spe- 
cific gravity of must 100°. 

Purity.— I think I must also place Mr. Campbell's 
little grape m this class, as it is very evidently a seedling 
of Delaware. I saw it, for the first time, at the Cen- 
tennial, and as he says it is hardy, healthy, and produc- 
tive, it may become a valuable wine grape. I think it 
well named. Bunch small, rather loose, shouldered ; 
berry below medium, pale yellow, transparent, sweet, and 
juicy, with no trace of foxiness or native flavor discerni- 
ble. I have no doubt it would make a delightful wine. 

VITIS VULPINA, THE SCUPPERNONG. 

It may be expected that I shall say something about 
this class, of which some of our Southern readers expect 
so much. I will simply observe that I have tried to 
cultivate, and once fruited the Scuppernong, or South- 
ern Muscadine, but found it entirely useless, and all the 
correspondence I have had with Southern grape-growers 
has led me to the belief that we cannot expect real 
gra]jes, worthy of the name, from that class, nor from 
the Mustang of Texas. The Scuppernong and its vari- 
eties differ entirely, in all their habits, from all other 
grapes. The fruit drops as soon as ripe, is deficient in 
sugar, has a very tough pulp, and strong flavor. I ven- 
ture to assert, that another decade will see these grapes 
dropped from the roll altogether. 

I do not write for our friends on the Pacific coast. 
They have so far cultivated mainly the vinifera, and have 
a different climate and soil, so it would be preposterous 



AND WIKE MAKII^G. ' 79 

for me to try and give them advice. I will say this much, 
however, that I have tried a great many wines of their 
make, and although there is a vast improvement percepti- 
ble lately in the quality of their products, yet they are all 
too heavy to suit the palate of the true connoisseur in 
wines. It is an old established fact, that the true bouquet 
wines are only grown in the temperate zones, and there 
is a certain amount of acid necessary in the must to de- 
velop bouquet in fermentation. Moreover, the Phylloxera 
is busy at work there, and I fully believe, from all the 
knowledge I can gain of the habits of that little devasta- 
tor, that they will be compelled to resort to our wstivalis 
and cordifolia varieties, to regenerate their failing vine- 
yards, as we have already seen it done in France. The 
day may not be so far distant, when the despised grape of 
North America will become the only hope of the failing 
grape-growers of all nations. Let us then do our best to 
furnish such material as will be an honor to the country, 
and carry the fame of the " Wineland " of the old legend 
through the length and breadth of the earth. 



CHAPTER XV. 

VARIETIES FOR DIFFERENT LOCALITIES. 

I will now try to give a list of varieties for table and 
market and one for wine, for the three sections of coun- 
try, Eastern and North-Eastern States, Middle and West- 
ern States, and Southern States. I do not pretend 
that it should be a complete guide, for great allowance 
must always be m.ade for soil and location, and no one a 
thousand miles away can give so good advice to a novice, 
as he can gather in the nearest vineyards by actual ob- 
servation, provided he can consult any of his neighbors. 



80 AMERICAN" GRAPE GROWIi^G 

VARIETIES FOR NORTH OF LATITUDE 42'. 

Most Hardy and Productive for Table and Mar- 
ket. — Perkins, Massasoit, Wilder, Delaware, Martha, 
Concord, Elvira, Lindley, Telegraph. 

Promising Well. — Lady, Early Champion, Aminia, 
Essex, Black Eagle, Amber, Pearl, Beauty, Brighton. 

EoR Wine. — General Cultivation. — Delaware, Elvira, 
for white wine ; Cynthiana, and Norton's Virginia, for 
red wine. 

Promising Well. — Martha, Massasoit, for white wine. 

VARIETIES FOR LOCALITIES BETWEEN LATITUDE 42"— 36°. 

For Table and Market. — Perkins, Massasoit, Wilder, 
Telegraph, Concord, Martha, Elvira, Goethe, Lindley. 

Promisiiig Well. — Lady, Aminia, Black Eagle, Defi- 
ance, Essex, Pearl, Amber, Beauty, Triumph. 

EoR W^hite AVike. — Elvira, Martha, Goethe. 

Promising Well. — Pearl, Amber, Beauty, Uhland, 
Transparent. 

For Red Wine. — Cynthiana, Norton's Virginia. 

For Sherry. — Hermann. 

Promising Well. — Hermann Seedling. 

This list embraces only the older varieties, such as 
have been tried several years. 

VARIETIES FOR LOCALITIES SOUTH OF 36°. 

For Market and Table. — Perkins, Massasoit, Wilder, 
Martha, Elvira, Goethe, Lindley, Herbemont. 

Promisiyig Well. — Lady, Black Eagle, Defiance, Tri- 
umph, Rogers' No. 2. 

For White Wine. — Elvira, Herbemont. 

Promisifig Well. — Amber, Pearl, Beauty, Transparent, 
Uhland, Hermann Seedling. 



AND WINE MAKING. 81 

For Eed Wine. — Oynthiana, Norton's Virginia, 
Lenoir. 

For Sherry. — Hermann^. Eulander, Cunningham, 
Alvey. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

PLANTING THE VINE. 

The distance at which the vines may be planted, will, 
of course, vary with the different varieties. The rows 
may all be 6 feet apart, as this is the most convenient 
distance for cultivating, and gives space enough for man, 
horse and plow, or cultivator. Slow growing varieties, 
such as Delaware, Catawba, or Alvey^ m^y be planted 6 
feet apart in the • rows, but Concord^^ Korton's, Herbe- 
mont, and all strong growing varieties, will need more 
room, say from 8 to 10 feet, to give the vines ample space 
to spread, and allow free circulation of air, one of the 
first conditions of success. The next question is : Shall 
we plant cuttings or rooted plants ? The latter are by 
far the best, as cuttings, even of the easiest growing va- 
rieties, are uncertain, and we cannot expect to have so 
even a growth as from rooted plants carefully assorted. 
Choose, therefore, good, strong, one-year-old plants, the 
best you can get, either from cuttings, layers, or single 
, eyes. Good plants should have plenty of strong, well- 
ripened roots, which are smooth and firm— for excres- 
cences and warts upon the roots are a sign of Phylloxera 
—and have also well-ripened, short-jointed wood. They 
should be of even size, so as to make a uniform growth, 
and not have been forced by the propagator into rank 
growth, for we cannot expect plants that have been petted 
and pampered with artificial manures, to flourish with 



82 AMERICAN GEAPE GROWIKG 

the every day food they obtain in the vineyard. But 
do not take second or third-rate plants, if you can help 
it, for they will not make the thrifty growth of first-class 
plants. The best are the cheapest even if they cost a 
little more. Especially important is this with such va- 
rieties as Norton's or Delaware, v/hicli do not root readily, 
and are always more difiicult to transplant. Better pay 
double the price for them and get good plants, as they 
will make healthier vines and bear sooner. 

But I also caution you against those who would sell 
you '^ extra large layers for immediate bearing," and 
whose plants are ^^ better than any one else grows them," 
as their advertisements will term it. It is time that this 
humbug should cease, and the public in general should 
know that they cannot, in reason, expect fruit from a 
vine transplanted the same season, and that those who 
pretend it can be done without vital injury to the plant, 
are only seeking to fill their pockets at the cost of their 
customers. They know well enough themselves, that it 
cannot be done without fatally injuring the j^lant, but 
they impose upon the credulity of their customers ; sell 
them large vines at extravagant prices, which these good 
souls will buy, and perhaps obtain a few sickly bunches 
the first season, but if they do, the vines will make a 
feeble growth, not ripen their wood, and be winter-killed 
next season. Therefore, if you look around for plants do 
not go to those who advertise "layers for immediate 
bearing," or "better grown than anyone's else," but send 
to some honest, reliable nurseryman whom you can trust ; 
one who is not afraid to let you see how he grows them, 
and let him send you a sample of his plants. Choose 
good, strong, healthy plants, one year old, plant care- 
fully, and be content to wait two years for results ; but 
then, if you have cultivated the vines carefully, yon will 
get a crop of grapes that is worth gathering. You can 
not, in nature and reason, expect it sooner. 



AND AVIKE MAKING. 83 

If the ground has been prepared in the fall, so much 
the better, and if it has been thrown into ridges, and is 
dry enough, it may be planted in the fall. The advantages 
of fall planting may be summed up as follows : The 



Fig. 15. — YOUNG VINE READY TO PLANT. 

ground is generally in better condition than in spring 
and will work better, as we usually have better weather, 
and more time to spare ; the ground can settle among 
the roots, which will be healed over and callused by 
spring, when the plant is ready to start with full vigor. 
Mark your ground, laying it off with a line, and put a 
small stake where each plant is to be. A very conveni* 



84 



AMEEICAI^ GEAPE GEOWi:^G 



ent plan is to tie a string, or piece of bark, into your line 
at the proper distance for each plant, then you have an 
even measure every time. Dig a hole, 8 or 10 inches 
deep, as shown in figure 16, in a slanting direction, rais- 
ing a small mound of well pulverized earth in the center; 

then, having pruned your 
plant, as in figure 15, with 
its tops and roots shorten- 
ed-in, as shown by the dot- 
ted lines, lay it in, resting 
the lower end on the 
mound of earth ; spread 
out its roots evenly to all 
sides, and then fill in with 
well pulverized earth, leav- 
ing the upper bud above 
the ground. When planted in fall, raise a small mound 
around each vine, so as to drain off the water, and throw 
a handful of mulch on top of the vines, to protect them. 
All the work should be done when the ground is in good 
condition, and dry and mellow enough to be worked in 
well among the roots. 




Fis:. 16. —PLANTING THE VINE. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE FIRST SUMMER. 



The first summer after planting, nothing is necessary 
but to keep the ground loose and mellow and free from 
weeds, stirring it freely with hoe, rake, and plow, when- 
ever necessary, but never when the ground is wet. 
Should the vines grow strong, they may be tied to the 
small stakes, to elevate them somewhat above the ground. 
Allow but one shoot to grow, rubbing off all others as 



AND WINE MAKING. 85 

they appear, but allow all the laterals to grow on this 
shoot, as it will make it short-jointed and stocky. 

In the fall, prune the young vine back to three buds, if 
it has grown well ; to one or two, if it is small. A fair 
growth for the first season, is from 3 to 4 feet. During 
the winter, trellises should be provided, as this is the 
most convenient and the cheapest method of training ; 
and we expect our vines to grow from 10 to 15 feet the 
coming summer. Procure good posts, 7 feet long, and 
3 to 4 inches in diameter, of Red Cedar where it can be 
had, as this is the most durable ; if that is not at hand, 
use Osage Orange, Mulberry, Black Locust, or Post Oak. 
Char the lower ends of the posts slightly, or dip them in 
coal tar, as far as they go into the ground, to make them 
more durable. Make holes with a post auger, placing 
the first post in each row about 4 feet outside of the 
last vine, and parallel with the row ; set the second post 
midway between the second and third yines, and so on, 
so that two vines always occupy the space between two 
posts. If preferred, every other post can be omitted this 
summer, and the intermediate ones may be set the next 
fall, as the trellis will be strong enough to bear the young 
growth, and that is all it will have to do the next 
summer. Make the holes 2 feet deep and set the posts 
firmly, pounding down the ground around them with a 
small wooden pestle or crowbar. Brace the end post 
firmly, by driving in a short stake 4 feet from the last 
post, fastening a wire to the top of the post and draw- 
ing it down and around the stake, as shown in figure 17. 
Procure No. 12 wire ; bore holes with a half-inch auger 
through the end post (which should always be rather 
heavier and square), one near the top of the post, and 
one or two others, as you Avish to make the trellis of two 
or three wires. If the trellis is to be of only two wires, 
make the next hole 2 feet below the upper one ; if three 
wires are to be used, 20 inches below. The three-wire 



86 AMERICAK GRAPE GROWING 

trellis is somewhat more convenient in tying up the 
young vines and lower canes, but is also costlier, while 
the two-wire trellis is more economical, and when the 
vines are once established in their proper shape, just 
as good, while it is more convenient for cultivation be- 
low, and allows freer circulation of air below the bearing 
canes. Fasten your vine to the post at one end, drawing 
it along the line, and pass it through the hole in the end 
post. Have pieces of 1 inch boards, V / ^ inch broad, and 
a foot long, with a hole bored through the center. Draw 
your wire also through this, and then by turning the 
board, you can, in wrapping the wire around it, tighten 
that at your pleasure, and loosen it also, which should 
always be done in the fall, as the cold contracts the wire, 
and the strain would be too great. Now you can fasten 
the wire to the intermediate posts by small staples, which , 
are manufactured for this purpose, and can be had in any 
hardware store. If 3^our vineyard slopes to the south, 
and the rows run parallel with the hillside, fasten on the 
south side ; if to the east, fasten to the east. Laths will, 
of course, do instead of wires, but the posts must then be 
set much closer ; laths always need repairing ; the wires 
are much more convenient to tie to, and in the end 
much cheaper. Many train to stakes. Where timber is 
plenty, stakes may be cheaper, yet it is much more 
labor to tie to them, and the vines are always in disorder, 
while they will cling to the wires with their tendrils, thus 
doing most of the tying themselves, and the bearing canes 
can be distributed much more evenly, producing more 
and better ripened fruit. I am satisfied that the addi- 
tional cost of trellis will be more than paid by the larger 
and better crop the first bearing season. Fill all va- 
cancies, if any occur, with extra strong vines in the fall. 



AKD WINE MAKING. 87 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

TREATMENT OF THE VINE TEIE SECOND SUMMER. 

We find the young vine at the commencement of the 
second summer pruned to three buds. From these we 
may expect two or three strong shoots to ripen into bear- 
ing canes for the next year. The first work will be to 
cultivate the whole ground. This can be done by a com- 
mon turning plow, first throwing away a furrow at each 
side of the row, as in the first cultivation of corn, taking 
care not to go too deep, so as to injure the vine or its 
roots. Then hoe the space under and around the vines, 
either with the two-pronged German hoe, or the Hexa- 
mer hoe, stirring and inverting the soil to the depth of 
about 3 inches. Then take the plow again and throw 
the soil back to the vines, using care, however, not 
to cover them ; stir the whole to a uniform depth, and 
leaving a shallow furrow in the middle. The ground 
should be dry enough to work well, and not clog ; rather 
wait a few days than to stir the soil in wet weather. Of 
the three shoots which may grow, leave two to grow un- 
checked ; the weakest is to be pinched as soon as about 
five or six leaves are developed, taking off the top of the 
young shoot with your thumb and finger. The other 
two, if Catawba or Delaware, you can let grow unchecked, 
but all the strong growing kinds, as Concord, Martha, 
Goethe, etc., and all the CBstivalis and cordifoUa class, 
should also be pinched when the shoots have attained a 
length of 3 feet, or just above the second wire from 
above ; this will force the laterals into a stronger growth, 
so that each will attain the size of a medium cane. On 
these we intend to have our fruit the coming season, as 
the shoots from buds on these laterals will produce more 
and finer fruit than those on the main canes, if left un- 



88 



AMEEICAK GKAPE GROWIKG 



checked ; and they can also be kept under control much 
better. Figure 17 will show the result of training the 
second summer, with the method of bracing the trellis. 




17. — THE VINE AT THE END OF THE SECOND SEASON. 



Figure 18 gives the vine, pruned and tied, at the end 
of the second season. Figure 19 represents the manner 
of training and tying the Catawba and Delaware, or other 
slow growing kinds. 

The above method of training is a combination of the 
single-cane and fan-training system, which I tried first 
on the Concord from sheer necessity, when the results 
pleased me so much, that I have since adopted it with all 




Fig. 18.— THE VINE PRUNED AND TIED. 

the strong growing varieties. The circumstances which 
led me to the trial of this method, were as follows : In 
the summer of 18G2, when my young Concord vines were 



Ai^D WINE MAKII^G. 89 

making their second season's growth, we had, in the be- 
ginning of June, the most destructive hailstorm I have 
ever seen here. The vines were not only stripi:)ed of all 
their leaves, but the young succulent shoots were also cut 
down to about 3 feet from the ground. The vines, being 
young and vigorous, pushed out strong laterals, each of 
them about the size of a fair, medium cane. In the fall, 
when I came to prune them, the main cane was not long 
enough, and I shortened in the laterals to from four to 
six buds each. On these I had as fine a crop of grapes as 
I ever saw, with large, well developed bunches and berries, 




Fig. 19.— TRAINING SLOW GROWING VARIETIES. 

and a great many of them, as each bud had produced its 
fruit-bearing shoot. Since that time I have followed this 
method altogether and have obtained the most satisfac- 
tory results. 

The ground should be kept loose and mellow during 
the summer, cultivating as often as may become necessary 
during dry weather, and the vines are to be tied neatly 
to the trellis with bark or straw. 

There are many other methods of training, as the old 
bow and stake training, so much in vogue formerly. But 
it crowds the w^hole mass of fruit and leaves so closely, that 
mildew and rot will follow as a natural consequence ; it 
should have been given up long ago. But we have a class 
of grape growers who never learn or forget anything. 



90 



AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 



These will hardly prosper. The grape-grower, of all 
others, should be a close observer of nature, a thinking 
and reasoning being. He ought to experiment and try new 
methods all the time, and should he find a better, be will- 
ing to throw aside his old method, and adopt one more 
suited to the wants of his vines. Only in this manner 
can he expect to attain success. 

There is also the arm system, of which we hear so 
much, and which certainly looks very pretty on paj)er. 
But paper is patient, and the advantages of the sys- 
tem cannot be denied, if every shoot and spur could be 
made to grow just as in drawings, with three fine bunches 
to each shoot. Upon applying it, however, we find 
that vines are stubborn, some shoots will outgrow others, 
and before we hardly know how, the whole beautiful 
system is out of order. It may do to follow with a 
few vines in gardens, or on arbors, but 1 do not think 
that it will ever be successfully adopted for vineyard cul- 
ture, as it involves too much labor in tying, pruning, etc. 
I think the method already described will more fully 
meet the wants of the vine grower than any I have yet 
seen ; it is so simple that an intelligent person can soon 
become familiar with it, and gives us new, healthy bear- 
ing-wood every season. 

Pruning may be done in the fall, as soon as the leaves 
have dropped, and continued, on mild days, during 
the winter months. 



AifD WIKE MAKING. 91 

CHAPTER XIX. 

TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE THIRD SUMMER. 

At the beginning of the third season we find our yine 
pruned to three spurs, of two buds each, and six short 
lateral arms of four to six buds each. These are tied 
firmly to the trellis, as shown in figure 18, for which pur- 
pose small twigs of the Golden Willow, of which eyery 
grape- grower should plant a supply, are the most con- 
venient. In their absence, twigs of some of the wild 
willows, or good strong twine, may be substituted, though 
not near so conyenient. The ground should be plowed 
and hoed as before, taking care, howeyer, not to plow 
so deeply as to cut or tear the roots of the yines. 

The yines being plowed and hoed, and, as we hope, 
pushing young shoots vigorously, we come to one of the 
most important and delicate operations to be performed 
on the vine, one of as great, or even greater, importance 
than pruning. This is summer-pruning, or pinching, 
i. e., thumb and fiuger pruning. Fall pruning, or cutting 
back, is but the first step in the discipline to which the 
yine is to be subjected ; summer 23runing is the second ; 
and one is useless and cannot be systematically followed 
without the other. Look at the vine well before you 
commence, and begin near the ground. 

The time to commence is when the young shoots 
are 6 to 8 inches long, and as soon as you can see all the 
young bunches or buds, the embryo fruit. We com- 
mence on the lower spur, haying two shoots ; rubbing 
off, at the same time, all suckers or wild shoots that may 
have started from the crown of the vine below. From 
the two buds two shoots have started. One of them 
may serve as a bearing cane or reserve next summer, we, 
therefore, leave it unchecked for the present. The other. 



92 



AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 



which is intended for a spur again next fall, we pinch 
with thumb and finger, jnst beyond the last bunch or 
button, taking out the leader between the last bunch and 
the next leaf, as shown in figure 20, the cross line indicat- 
ino- where the leader is to be pinched. We now rub off 
all the shoots between the lower spur and the next lateral 
cane, should any appear, as they generally produce im- 
perfect fruit and are quite too near the ground. Next 
take the spur on the cane, treating it precisely like the 
lower one, leaving the strongest shoot unchecked for a 
bearing cane next year, and pinching the other. Now go 
oyer all the shoots on the lateral 
canes, shortening each one to just 
above the last promising looking 
bunch. If a bud has started 
two, or even three shoots, rub off 
the weaker, leaving but one and 
the strongest, and if any bud has 
not started vigorously, rub it off 
altogether. Go over the other 
cane in the same manner, and if 
you think there are still too many 
bunches, take away the smallest. 
A vine in its third season, how- 
ever strong it may be, should not 
be allowed to bear over 15 lbs. of grapes, and if allowed 
thirty to forty bunches it will have that quantity, pro- 
vided it is not a variety which bears but small bunches. 
Now is the time to thin the fruit, before it has abstracted 
any strength from the vine. If any shoots are not suf- 
ficiently developed to show their condition, we pass them 
by, and go over the vine again after a few days. 

This early pinching of the young shoots has the ten- 
dency to throw all the vigor into the development of the 
young bunches and the leaves remaining on the shoot, 
which now develop with astonishing rapidity. It is a 




Fis;. 20.— PINCHING. 



AND WINE MAKING. 



93 



gentle checking, and leading tlie sap into other channels, 
not the violent process Avhich is often followed long after 
the bloom, when the shoots have so hardened that tho 
knife must be used, and by' which the plant is robbed 
of a large part of its leaves, to the injury of both fruit 
and vine. Let any one who wishes to satisfy himself, 
summer-prune a vine according to this method, and leave 
the next vine until after the bloom ; he wall soon be con- 
vinced which is best Since I first practised this method, 
now about twenty years, it has added at least one-third 
to the quantity and quality of my crop, and it is now fol- 
lowed by most of the intelligent growers of my State. 
It also gives an early opportunity to destroy the small 
worms, a species of leaf -folder, which are very trouble- 
some about this time, eating the young bunches and 
leaves, and which generally 
make their wxb among the 
tender leaves at the end of the 
shoot. The bearing shoots all 
being pinched back, we can 
leave the vines alone until after 
the bloom, only tying up the 
young canes from the spurs, 
should this become necessary. 
Do not tie them over and 
among the bearing canes, but 
lead them to the empty spaces 
m the middle, as our ob- 
ject must be to give the fruit 
all the air and light we can. 

When they have bloomed, the laterals will have start- 
ed from the axils of the leaves on the bearing shoots. 
Go over again, and pinch these back to one leaf, as sliown 
in figure 21, the cross lines showing where the laterals are 
to be pinched. This will have the tendency to develop 
tho remaining leaf very rapidly, enabling it to serve as a 




Fig, 21.— PINCHING THE 
LATERAI.S. 



94 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

conductor and elaborator of sap to the young bunch op- 
posite, and shadmg that when it becomes fully deyel- 
oped. The canes from the spurs, which we left un- 
checked at first pinching, and which we design to bear 
fruit the next season, may now also be stopped or pinched 
when they are about 3 feet long, to start their laterals 
into stronger growth. Pinch off all the tendrils unless 
where they serve as supports to the young growth. This 
IS a very busy time for the vine dresser, and upon his 
close attention and diligence now, depends, in a great 
measure, the value of his crop. A vast deal of labor can 
be saved by doing everything at its proper time. 

This is about all that is necessary for this summer, ex- 
cept tying the young growth along the top wires, and 
an occasional tying of a fruit-bearing branch, if it should 
become too heavy. The majority of the branches will, 
however, be able to bear their fruit without tying, and 
the young growth which may yet be made from the 
laterals may be left unchecked, as it will serve to shade 
the fruit when ripening. This short and early pinching 
is also a partial preventive of mildew and rot, as it ad- 
mits light and air to all parts of the vine. But I cannot 
caution too strongly against late cutting back, one of the 
first causes of disease, and ruinous to the vine, as the de- 
foliation of the vine in August disturbs and violates all 
its functions, and enfeebles it. 

The reader will perceive that fall pruning, or shorten- 
ing-in the ripe wood of the vine, and summer-pruning, 
shortening-in and thinning the young growth, have one 
and the same object in view, namely, to keep the vine with- 
in proper bounds, and to concentrate all its energies for. a 
two-fold object, the production and ripening of the most 
perfect fruit, and the production of strong and healthy 
wood for next season's crop. Both operations are only dif- 
ferent parts of the same system, of which summer-pruning 
is the preparatory, and fall-pruning the finishing part. 



AKD wi:n^e making. 95 

If we think that a vine sets more fruit than it is ahle 
to bear and ripen perfectly, we liave it in our power to 
thin it, by taking away all imperfect bunches and feeble 
shoots. We should allow no -more canes to grow for next 
season's bearing than we need, if we allow three canes to 
grow where only two are needed, we waste the energies 
of the vine, which should all be concentrated upon ripen- 
ing its fruit in the most perfect manner, and producing 
enough wood for next season's bearing, and of the best 
and most vigorous kind, but no more. If we prune the 
vine too long, we overtax its energies, making it bear 
more fruit than it can well mature, and the result will be 
poor, badly-ripened fruit, and imperfect wood. If we 
prune the vine too short, we will have a rank, excessive 
gi'owth of wood and leaves, and encourage rot and mil- 
dew. Only practice and experience will teach the true 
medium, and the observing and thinking vine-dresser 
will soon learn where the true medium is, better than 
he can be taught by volumes of advicQ. Different va- 
rieties will, of course, require different treatment, and 
it would be folly to prune them all alike. A compact, 
slow grower, like the Delaware, will require different 
treatment from a rank grower like Concord, and much 
shorter pruning. The Delaware and Catawba fruit 
well upon single canes, while the Concord, Martha, and 
others, fruit better on spurs upon laterals, while most of 
the CBstivalis and cordifolia classes, especially the Norton's, 
Cpithiana, and Taylor, will fruit better if pruned to 
spurs of two or three buds, on the old arms, than on 
young canes. "With these latter, the old arms should, 
therefore, be retained as long as they are sound and 
vigorous, prunins: all the healthy, good sized shoots to two 
or three buds ; always, however, growing a young cane 
to fall back upon, should the old one become diseased. 
It is because so few of our common laborers will take the 
pains to study the habits and nature of their vines, and 



96 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

do a little thinking for themselves, that we find among 
them but very few good vine dressers. 

It is hardly necessary to state that the ground should 
be kept mellow and clean through the summer, and 
especially during the ripening of the fruit, but never 
touch it m wet weather. 

At the end of this season, we find our vines, if Concords 
or similar varieties, with the old fruit-bearing canes, and 
a spur on each side, from each of which we have a cane, 
as the smaller one was stopped, like all other fruit-bear- 
ing branches, and which we now prune to a spur of two 
buds. The other, the young cane, which was stopped at 
about 3 feet, on which the laterals were left to grow un- 
checked, we prune as last season, each lateral being cut 
back to four to six buds, and the old canes which had borne 
fruit, are cut away altogether. With Norton's, Cynthi- 
ana, Taylor, etc., the old arms are left, and the well de- 
veloped shoots are cut back to two buds each, as before 
mentioned, while the small, weak ones are cut away 
altogether. This leaves us with an arm on each side, to 
be tied the next spring, as shown in figure 18, and 
ends our operations for the season. Of the gathering of 
the fruit, as well for market as for wine, I shall speak in 
another place. 



CHAPTER XX. 

TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE FOURTH SUMMER. 

We now consider the vine as established, able to bear a 
full crop. The operations to be performed are precisely 
the same as in its third year, only modifying the prun- 
ing, fruiting, etc., according to the strength of the vine, 
pruning shorter if the vine shows a decrease in vigor, 
longer, if it grows too rank. 



AliTD Wli^E MAKING. 97 

Should the vines show a decrease in vigor, so as to in- 
dicate the need of stimulants, they may be manured with 
ashes, bono dust, compost, or still better, with surface 
soil from the woods or prairies. This will serve to re- 
plenish the soil which may have been washed off, and is 
much more beneficial than stable manure. AYhen the 
latter is employed, a small trench may be dug in the 
middle of the row just above the vine, the manure laid 
in, and covered with soil. But an abundance of fresh 
soil, drawn around the vine, is the best of all manures. 

Should your vineyard have vacancies, they had best be 
filled with layers from neighboring vines, made as follows : 
Dig a trench from the vine from which the layer is to be 
made, to the empty place, about 8 or 10 inches deep ; 
bend into this trench one of the canes of the vine which 
has been left to grow unchecked for the purpose, and 
pruned to the proper length. Let the end of this layer- 
cane come out at the surface, where the new vine is want- 
ed, and fill up the trench with well pulverized earth. It 
will take root at every joint, and grow rapidly, but as it 
draws a great deal of nourishment from the parent vine, 
that must be pruned much shorter. When the laj^er is 
well established, it is cut from the parent vine, either the 
second or third season. Such layers will fill up much 
better than if the vacancies are supplied by planting 
young vines, as the latter do not grow very vigorous- 
ly, if set among the others, after the second season. 

Pruning is best done in fall, but can be done any time 
during mild weather in winter, and here even as late as 
the middle of March. Fall pruning will prevent flow of 
sap, and the cuttings, if to be used for future plantations, 
or sold, are also better if made in the fall, and buried in 
the ground over winter, with their upper ends downwards. 
All the sound, well-ripened wood of last season's growth 
may be made into cuttings, and if they can be sold, 
will largely add to the product of the vineyard. 
5 



98 america:n^ gkape geowikg 

•* 

CHAPTER XXI. 

TRAINING THE VINE ON ARBORS AND WALLS. 

This has a different purpose from culture in vineyards, 
and, therefore, the vines require different treatment. 
Vineyard culture has for its object the most perfect 
fruit, and bringing the vine, with all its parts, within 
easy reach of the cultivator. Arbor culture has for its 
object the covering of a large space with foliage, for or- 
nament and shade ; fruit being but a secondary consider.:- 
tion, though a large quantity of fruit of fair quality can 
also be produced, if the vines are judiciously treated. 

The first aim should be to grow very strong plants, so 
as to cover a large space. Prepare the border by digging a 
trench 2 feet deep and 4 feet wide, and fill with rich soil, 
rotten leaves, bones, ashes, etc. Set your plants in this, 
in the manner already shown in vineyard planting. 
Leave but one shoot to grow on them during the first 
summer, which ought to become very strong. Cut this 
cane back to three buds the next fall. Each of these 
buds will produce a strong shoot the next spring, which 
should be tied to the arbor and allowed to grow un- 
checked. In the following fall, cut each of these three 
canes back to three buds, as our first aim must be to get 
a good basis for our vines. These will give nine canes 
the next summer, and as the vine is now strong enough, 
we can begin to demand a crop from it. We have now 
three different sections or branches to the vine, each one 
of which bears three canes. Cut one of these three canes 
back to two eyes, and prune the other two canes to from 
six to ten buds each, according to the strength of the 
vine. Treat each of the three sections in the same man- 
ner. I^ext spring tie these neatly to the trellis, divid- 



AND wl:sb making. 99 

ing them equally, and when the young shoots appear, 
thin out the weakest, leaving the others to grow un- 
checked. Next fall cut back the weakest of the canes 
to two buds each, the stronger ones to three or four buds, 
3 the spurs at bottom to come in as a reserve, should any of 
the main arms become diseased. 

Others prefer the Thomery or horizontal arm training, 
but I think it much more complicated and difficult. 
Those who wish to inform themselves about it, I refer to 
the books of Fuller and Mead, which are very explicit on 
the subject. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

OTHER METHODS OF TRAINING. 

These are almost without number; one of the most 
common is to place three stakes around the vine, about a 
foot from it, and to wind the canes or arms around them 
spirally, until they reach the top. They are then 
*^ spurred in" every season, and no young canes grown, 
except to replace a decaying arm. This mode is much 
more inconvenient than a trellis, and it crowds fruit 
and foliage too much, inducing mildew. Another, much 
in vogue in Europe, and also in California, is the so- 
called bush or stool method of training. The vine is 
made to form its crown, L e., the part from which the 
branches start, from 12 to 18 inches above the ground 
and all the young shoots are allowed to grow, but sum- 
mer pruned or checked above the last bunch of grapes. 
The next spring or fall all of the young shoots are 
''spurred-in " to two buds ; this system of spurring-in is 
kept up, and the vine will at last present the appearance 
of a bush or miniature tree, produciug all its fruit within 



100 AMERICAIT GRAPE GROWING 

a foot from tlie crown, and without further support than 
its own stem. Very old vines, sometimes, have from a 
dozen to twenty spurs, and present, with their fruit 
hanging all around their trunks, a pleasing, but odd 
aspect. This method could not be applied here with any 
chance of success to any other than very slow and stocky 
growers. The Delaware, the Alvey, and also the Eumelan, 
would be the most suitable, as they are very close-jointed, 
stocky, and hardy. It would be useless to try it with 
strong growers. 

Another method of dwarfing the vine is practised to 
form a pretty border along walks in gardens or along ter- 
races, and is as follows : Plant the vines about 8 feet 
apart, treat them the first season as in common vineyard 
culture, but cut back to two buds. Provide posts 3 to 
Sy^ feet long, and pointed at one end ; drive these into the 
ground for 18 inches, and nail a lath on the top. This 
is the trellis, and should be about 18 inches above the 
ground, or 2 feet, if you prefer. Allow both of the 
shoots from the vine to grow unchecked, and when they 
have reached the trellis, tie one to the right, the other to 
the left, allowing them to grow at will along the lath. 
The next fall, cut back to the proper length to meet the 
other vine, and in spring, tie firmly to the lath. When 
the young shoots appear, all are rubbed off below the trel- 
lis, but all those above the trellis are pinched, as in vine- 
yard culture, beyond the last bunch of grapes. The 
trellis, with its garland of fruit, will look very pretty. 
In the fall, all the shoots are '^ spurred-in " to one or 
two buds, one being allowed to grow from each spur, to 
produce fruit the next summer ; the same treatment is 
repeated every year. 

During a trip among the vineyards of Western New 
York, on the shores of Lake Erie and Keuka, or Crooked 
Lake, I observed a method of training which seems to pro- 
duce good results there, but which I think would not 



AKD WIKE MAKIKG. 101 

prove successful here, as our hot sun would scald the 
leaves, and the grapes being so near the ground would 
be more liable to rot. I can but think that even in 
these localities the method described by me, would be 
better, and save a good deal of labor. 

Their method is as follows : They grow two canes on 
each vine, which are tied horizontally to the lower wire, 
one to the left, the other to the right, and also a spur on 
each arm to produce a new cane for next year. The 
shoots, which grow from the eyes on the two horizontal 
canes, are left to groAV unchecked, and when they have 
become long enough to reach the second wire, are tied to 
it, and from there to the upper wire, thus bearing the fruit 
all between the lower and second wires. The next fall the 
cane, which has borne the fruit the last summer, is cut off 
close to the spur, and the new cane grown from it takes 
the place of it the next summer. It is a very simple way 
of renewal training, but were we to do it here, the leaves 
which are on the main shoots would dro]3 off, leaving the 
fruit exposed ; while with the system of summer-pruning 
I follow, the young and vigorous leaves on the j^inched 
laterals shade the fruit perfectly, and remain fresh and 
green. Besides, it takes an immense amount of tying and 
tying material, and we can pinch four shoots in a shorter 
time than we can tie one. As our pinched shoots be- 
come very stocky, they will bear the weight of all tlie 
fruit without tying, and the slanting direction in which 
we tie will distribute the fruit more evenly. I believe, 
therefore, that our New York growers would do well to 
give this method a trial, and compare results. 

I also saw the horizontal arm training in great perfec- 
tion at Mr. H. E. Hooker's, at Eochester, and confess that 
his arms of the Brighton, with their handsome clusters, 
looked very handsome. He thinks he could carry an 
arm to the distance of 50 feet in the same way. His 
treatment consists simply in ^^spurring-in" the young 



102 amekica:n^ grape growing 

shoots on his canes along the first wire to one to two 
eyes, growing his fruit on these, and leaving the old arm, 
pruning back the young shoots to spurs every year, leav- 
ing the bearing shoots unchecked, and tying them to the 
wires above. While it succeeds there, I have my doubts 
as to its applicability with us, for the reasons already 
given, nor do I believe that he can grow any better fruit 
even there, than could be obtained by our simpler method. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

DISEASES OF THE VINE. 

I cannot agree with those writers who assert that the 
diseases of the vine are not threatening in this country. 
They are so formidable that whole districts where grape 
growing was formerly followed, have given up the cul- 
ture of the vine almost entirely, and it seems as if all 
varieties of the Labrusca become, more or less, a prey to 
them. This may, to a certain extent, be attributed to 
the Phylloxera, or Root Louse, which so enfeebles the 
plant, that it can not withstand the changes of our vari- 
able climate. But even the Concord, which is almost 
Phylloxera proof, has rotted worse than any other during 
the last few years, although formerly considered one of 
the most reliable. I think one of the reasons why the 
Labrusca class is so subject to disease, is the tendency of 
the vines to root near the surface, as they are thus more 
liable to be affected by excessive wet, or the reverse ex- 
treme, drouth. It is, therefore, fortunate indeed, that 
we have some varieties which do not rot, at least to such 
an extent as to affect their crop. Almost all of the older 



AJ^D WIKE MAKING. 103 

varieties of these belong to the cestivalis class, and among 
them, the Norton's Virginia and Oynthiana stand pre- 
eminent. During the forty years that the Norton's has 
been known, the rot has never materially affected the 
crop, and the Cjnthiana rivals it in that respect, being 
equally healthy, while its wine, in quality, excels that of 
the Norton. The cordifolia class also bids fair to furnish 
us varieties of the '^ iron clad " type, in the Elvira, Trans- 
parent, Pearl, Uhland, etc. Both of these classes root 
deeply, and in this, I believe, is to be found the reason for 
their greater health. Both are true wine grapes, with no 
toughness of pulp, the Norton's and Cynthiana furnish- 
ing us the types for red wine, the others, the delicate and 
smooth white wines. On these I make bold to say, the 
future of -our country as a ^^ Wineland" depends ; not on 
the windy appliances of sulphur, and other remedies 
against rot and mildew, and my advice to the beginner is: 
do not plant largely of any variety subject to disease, but 
plant those which will not need these remedies. I have 
no doubt that there are varieties adapted to every section 
of the country which are free from disease, and it will 
certainly pay the planter to seek them out. 

Mildew is our most formidable disease, and very often 
sweeps away two-tliirds of a crop of Oataw^bas in a few 
days. It does not seem to affect the Concord and Mar- 
tha. Generally mildew appears here from June 1st to 
June 15th, after abundant rains, and damp weather. It 
is a parasitic fungus, and sulphur applied by means of a 
bellows, or dusted over the fruit and vine, is a partial 
remedy. Close and early summer-pruning will do much 
to prevent it, throwing, as it does, all the strength of the 
vine into the young fruit, developing it rapidly, and also 
giving free access of air. In some varieties, Delaware 
for instance, it will only affect the leaves, causing them 
to drop off, after which the fruit, though it may attain 
full size, will not ripen or become sweet, but shrinks and 



104 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

drops. In seasons when the weather is dry, and the air 
pure, mildew will not appear. It is most prevalent in 
locations with a tenacious subsoil and where malaria 
abounds, being less frequent in soils with good drainage 
, and in high, exposed situations. Under-draining is also 
a partial preventive, as excess of moisture about the roots 
and in the air is, no doubt, its principal cause. 

The Gray Eot, or '^ Grape Cholera '' (so-called), gen- 
erally follows the mildew, and I think the latter its prin- 
cipal cause, as it is generally found on berries of which 
the stems have already been affected by mildew. The 
berry first shows gray streaks and marblings ; in a few 
days it turns to a grayish-blue color, withers, and drops 
from the bunch. It will continue to affect berries until 
they begin to ripen and color, but is confined to a few 
varieties only, the Catawba, Diana, and a few others. 

The Spotted, or Brown Eofc, has been most destructive 
of late among the Concord, Martha, Eogers' Hybrids; in 
short, nearly all of the Lahruscas, wdth the exception of 
the Ives, Perkins, and a few others, too poor in quality 
to be very desirable. It appears like a small puncture 
on the berry, which will take on a liver-colored hue and 
spread very rapidly. In 1878 it destroyed almost the 
whole Concord crop along the lower Missouri and Missis- 
sippi. Longer fall pruning and heavier bearing of the 
vine will prevent it to some extent, also close and early 
summer-pruning, as it is worse on vines with a rank 
growth, and on poorly drained soil. Training on the 
trellis higher than is generally followed (which is a 
natural consequence of longer pruning), will also be 
found a partial preventive, in short, anything which will 
give a freer circulation of air and more exposure to the 
light will be of aid. 

There is another form of rot, appearing mostly on 
the Herbemont, Lenoir, Hermann, and sometimes on the 
Taylor, which generally comes after frequent showers. 



AND WIN'E MAKING. 105 

close, sultry air, and hot glimpses of sunshine between 
showers. It at first appears as a grayish spot on the 
foliage, wliich shrivels as if burnt, an.^. the berries dry 
up as if scalded by hot water. It comes in spots ; some- 
times all the fruit on one arm will be destroyed, while 
that on the other arm on the same vine is healthy, and 
all of it will ripen. 

The best method of avoiding all these diseases is to 
plant varieties not subject to them, and with the mani- 
fold kinds we now have, some can surely be found that 
will remain healthy in every locality at all adapted to 
grape growing. That we have varieties exempt from dis- 
ease, the experience with the Norton's Virginia, wherever 
cultivated, has fully demonstrated. No sensible man, 
however, will suppose that one variety should be suited 
to all locations over this wide country. It behooves us 
then, each to experiment, and ascertain which are suited 
to his particular locality, and for these experiments to 
choose such as are considered most healthy elsewhere, 
and especially in locations similar to his, in climate and 
soil. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE GRAPE. 

As the most destructive of all, because it works chiefly 
under ground, and the mischief it does will only be per- 
ceived in its effects, I may consider the Phylloxera vasta- 
trix, or Grape-vine Root-louse. Concerning the exist- 
ence of this pest, we have for a long time been ignorant, 
until the efforts of our State Entomologist, Prof. C. V. 
Riley, and of other Entomologists, especially Prof. 
Planchon, of France, have enlightened us upon the 
subject, and made us aware of the danger threatening 



106 AMEIUCAK GEAPE GEOWING 

our vineyards, but especially those of Europe and Cali- 
fornia, where the vmifera class had so far been cultivated 
almost exclusively. It threatens now to sweep out of 
existence that whole class, and it is a very noteworthy 
fact, that from this country from which the fell destroyer 
was imported into Europe, should also come the only 
effective remedy so far found, namely, the introduction 
of Phylloxera proof varieties of vines, which are found 
chiefly in the (Bstivalis and cordifolia (or riparia) 
classes. All other remedies, except inundation, seem to 
have failed, and Prof. Planchon, in a letter to me, ex- 
presses his firm belief, that the only hope of saving that 
great source of wealth to the French nation, their vine- 
yards, is in the introduction and general cultivation of 
our Phylloxera proof varieties of the grape, first as a stock 
to graft the vmifera upon, and secondly to cultivate our 
grapes for their fruit, if they can find varieties which 
will make such wines as the popular taste there demands. 
With this object in view millions upon millions of 
American cuttings and plants have already been imported 
into France, and the demand is still as active as ever. 
But the Clinton and Concord, which were first imported 
for that purpose, have not proved satisfactory. The first 
succeeds well enough, but is too rambling a grower, and 
not even a good stock, on account of its tendency to 
sucker, and the quality of its wine is not good enough 
to suit the palate of the French connoisseurs. The Con- 
cord seems to fail even as a stock, as its roots are too 
near the surface, and it ripens its fruit and wood too 
early. The hot summers there appear to affect it, and it 
turns yellow prematurely. The Lenoir, or Jacques as 
they call it there, for a time promised to be all they wanted, 
as it was vigorous and made an exquisite red wine. But 
last summer the dry-rot appeared upon it also, the Cun- 
ningham and Herbemont have been imported largely, but 
they fear that they will not be quite hardy enough for 



AND WINE MAKING. 107 

Northern France. The Norton's, Cynthiana, and Her- 
mann seem not to be quite satisfactory in their growth, 
though their wines are all they desire. However, if they 
liave been mostly grafted upon vinifera stocks, this is not 
surprising, for when the root is destroyed or weakened, 
the graft can not flourish, and it is rather difficult to 
estabhsh a vineyard of tliera even liere ; but when once 
established, it will last. Their attention is now drawn 
towards the Taylor, as a very easy vine to propagate, and 
an excellent stock to graft upon, and if we once have 
varieties which have the Phylloxera proof roots of the 
Taylor, and wliich besides are abundant bearers, as we 
now seem to have in the Elvira and her sisters, we have 
found what is desired, and the supposition is but natural 
that they will become in time the wine grapes of the 
whole civilized world. It is indeed wonderful that, 
when this insect threatens to destroy the grape vines of 
the Old World, its remedy should be found here in our 
Missouri vineyards, and it may truly be called providen- 
tial. It would require too much space to give the full 
natural history of the insect, and I refer those who wish 
to study it to the valuable Report* of Prof. Riley, of 
which I copy the most important jjart : 

How THE Phylloxera Affects the Vine. — Prof. 
Riley says : '' The result which follows the puncture of 
the Root-Louse is an abnormal swelling, differing in form 
according to the particular part and texture of the root. 
These swellings, which are generally commenced at the 
tips of the rootlets, eventually rot, and the lice forsake 
H:hem and ])etake themselves to fresh ones. The decay 
affects the parts adjacent to the swellings, and on the 
more fibrous roots cuts off the supply of sap to all parts 
beyond. As these last decompose, the lice congregate 

* Sixth Annual Report on the Noxious, Beneficial, and other Insects 
of the State of Missouri, b}' C. V. Riley, State Entomoloo^ist. St. Louis, 
Mo., 1874. 



108 AMERICAI^ GEAPE G110WI:N'G 

on the larger onec, until at last the root system literally 
wastes away. 

'' During the first year of attack, there are scarcely any 
outward manifestations of disease, though the fibrous 
roots, if examined, will be found covered with nodosities, 
particularly in the latter part of the growing season. 
The disease is then in its incipient stage. The second 
year all these fibrous roots yanish, and the lice not only 
prevent the formation of new ones, but, as just stated, 
settle on the larger roots, which they injure by causing 
hypertrophy of the parts punctured, which also eventu- 
ally become disorganized and rot. At this stage the out- 
ward symptoms of the disease first become manifest, in a 
sickly, yellowish appearance of the leaf and a reduced 
growth of cane. As the roots continue to decay, these 
symptoms become more acute, until by about the third 
year the vine dies. When the vine is about dying it is 
generally impossible to discover the cause of the death, 
the lice, which had been so numerous the first and second 
years of invasion, having left for fresh ;[3€isturago." 

" The life-history of the Grape Phylloxera may be thus 
epitomized : It hibernates mostly as a young larva, tor- 
pidly attached to the roots of the vine, and so deepened 
in color as generally to be of a dull brassy-brown, and, 
therefore, with difficulty perceived, as the roots are often 
of the same color. With the renewal of vine growth in 
the spring, this larva moults, rapidly increases in size, and 
soon commences laying eggs. These eggs, in due time, 
give birth to young, which soon become virginal, egg- 
laying mothers, like the first ; and, like them, always re- 
main wingless. Five or six generations of these partheno- 
genetic, egg-bearing, apterous mothers follow each other ; 
when — about the middle of July, in this latitude — some 
of the individuals begin to acquire wings. These are all 
females, and like the wingless mothers, they are partheno- 
genetic. Having issued from the ground, while in the 



AND WINE MAKING. 109 

pupa state, they rise in the air and spread to new vine- 
yards, where they deliver themselves of their issue in the 
form of eggs or egg-like bodies — usually two or three in 
number, and not exceeding eight — and then perish. 
These eggs are of two sizes, the larger about 0.02 inch 
long, and the smaller about three-fifths of that length. 
In the course of a fortnight they produce the sexual indi- 
vidual, the larger ones giving birth to females, the smaller 
to males. These sexual individuals are born for no other 
l^urpose than the reproduction of their kind, and are 
Avithout means of flight, or of taking food, or excreting. 
They are quite active and couple readily ; one male be- 
ing capable, no doubt, of serving several females, as Bal- 
biani found to be the case with the European querciis. 
The abdomen of the female, after impregnation, en- 
larges somewhat, and she is soon delivered of a solitary 
egg, which differs from the ordinary eggs of the parthe- 
nogenetic mother only in becoming somewhat darker. 
This impregnated egg gives birth to a young louse, which 
becomes a virginal, egg-bearing, wingless mother, and 
thus recommences the cycle of the species' evolution. 
But one of the most important discoveries of Balbiani is 
that, during the latter part of the season, many of the 
wingless, hypogean mothers perform the very same func- 
tion as the winged one ; i. e., they lay a few eggs which 
are of two sizes, and which produce males and females, 
organized and constructed precisely as those born of the 
winged females, and, like them, producing the solitary 
impregnated Qgg. Thus, the interesting fact is estab- 
lished that even the winged form, is by no means essen- 
tial to the perpetuation of the species ; but that, if all 
such winged individuals were destroyed as fast as they 
issue from the ground, the species could still go on mul- 
tiplying in a vineyard from year to year. We have, 
therefore, the spectacle of an underground insect posses- 
sing the power of continued existence, even when confined 



110 AMEKICAK GRAPE GROWING 

to its subterranean retreats. It spreads in the wingless 
state from vine to vine, and from vineyard to vineyard, 
when these are adjacent, either through passages in the 
ground itself, or over the surface. At the same time it 
is able, in the winged condition, to migrate to much 
more distant points. The winged females, as before 
stated, begin to appear in July, and continue to issue 
from the ground until vine growth ceases in the fall. 
Yet they are much more abundant in August than during 
any other month, and on certain days may be said to lit- 
erally swarm. Every piece of root a few inches long, and 
having rootlets, taken from an infested vine at this sea- 
son, will present a goodly proportion of pupae ; and an 
ordinary quart preserve jar, filled with such roots and 
tightly closed, will furnish daily, for two or three weeks, 
a dozen or more of the winged females, which gather on 
the sides of the jar toward the light. ^Ye may get some 
idea, from this fact, of the immense numbers that dis- 
perse through the air to new fields, from a single acre of 
infected vines, in the course of the late summer and fall 
months. 

*^ If to the above account we add that occasionally 
individuals abandon their normal underground habit, and 
form galls upon the leaves of certain varieties of grape- 
vine, we have, in a general way, the whole natural his- 
tory of the species." 

He takes the ground that it is the cause of most of the 
diseases in the Lahrusca class, and especially in the 
Catawba, as a vine with a diseased root can not produce 
healthy fruit, and these conclusions are certainly logical. 
He advises grafting on Phylloxera proof roots as a reme- 
dy, and to those wishing to save such varieties as the 
Catawba and Delaware, this is certainly the best course. 
But I think that they are already superseded by grapes 
of better quality, and my advice is to plant none but 
Phylloxera proof varieties. So far as I know, the follow- 



AKD WINE 3IAJaNG. Ill 

ing varieties are especially subject to its ravages : Cataw- 
ba, Delaware, Hartford, most of Eogers' Hybrids, lona, 
Isabella, Creveling, Diana, Maxatawney, Cassady, Rebec- 
ca, Croton. The following are not quite exempt, but are 
so vigorous that they seem but little injured : Concord, 
Martha, Goethe, Wilder, Ives, Perkins, Telegraph, Mary 
Ann. The whole mstivalis and cordifolia group appear 
to be free from its ravages. It is strange, however, that 
the gall-producing type of the insect will prefer the leaves 
of the Taylor and Clinton, while tlie type which works 
at the root does not affect them. 

The other insect enemies, although very numerous, are 
not so devastating as the Phylloxera. 

The common Gray Cut-worm will often eat the tender 
shoots of the young plantations, and draw them into the 
ground below. It can be readily detected, so soon as its 
ravages are seen, by stirring the ground about the vine, 
when it will be found under some of the loose clods, 
and easily killed. 

The small worms, belonging to the leaf-folding class, 
some of them white, some bluish-green, have already 
been mentioned under '^Summer-pruning." They 
should be destroyed at that time ; closely watch them 
when they make their webs among the young shoots, as 
they will become very destructive if not checked in time. 

Another leaf -folder comes about mid-summer, making 
its web on the leaf, drawing it together, and then devour- 
ing its own house. It is a small, whitish-gray, active 
worm, wliich Avill drop to the ground as soon as disturbed. 
I know of no other way but to catch and destroy it. 

Several beetles will feed on the young buds before they 
expand, one about the size and color of a hemp seed ; an- 
other is of a steel-blue color; both are very active. They 
can be caught in early morning, when they are yet torpid, 
by spreading a newspaper under the vine and shaking it, 
wl en they will drop upon the paper. 



112 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

The Grape- vine Fidia, a smJl beetle, asliy-gray, some- 
times comes in swarms, preying on tlie foliage, riddling 
it completely, and even attacking the young fruit. 
Hand-shaking, as above, in the morning, is also the best 
treatment for these, as well as for the Grape Curculio. 

The Thrip, a small, three-cornered, whitish insect, has 
sometimes become very troublesome, as they eat the 
under side of the leaves of some varieties, especially of 
the mstivalis class, when the leaf will show rusty specks 
on the surface, and eventually drop. Carrying lighted 
torches through the vineyard at night, and beating the 
vines to disturb them, is one of the best remedies, as 
they will fly into the flames. They are a great annoy- 
ance and should be destroyed in time, before they get too 
numerous, as they will defoliate whole vineyards. It is 
strange that they have almost entirely disajopeared in our 
Missouri vineyards, where they were so numerous formerly, 
and are now very annoying in the vineyards on Crooked 
Lake, New York, where I saw them in great abundance. 

The Aphis, or Plant Louse, covers the young shoots 
of the vines occasionally, sucking their juice. The best 
remedy is taking ofl the shoot, and crushing them under 
foot. 

The Grape-vine Sphinx is a large, green worm, with 
black dots. It is very voracious, but can easily be found 
and destro}'ed. The worms do a great deal of mischief, 
but fortunately are not very numerous. The best remedy 
against them, and all other caterpillars, is hand picking. 

The Rocky Mountain L)cust, or Grasshopper, as it is 
generally ciilled, is one of the most destructive insects 
in those districts invaded by it, and ruined the crops 
of nearly two seasons in some sections in 1875. Fortu- 
nately its range is very limited, and it appears but rarely. 
But when once it gets into a vineyard, not a green leaf 
or shoot is left, and if this occurs as late as the first of 



AISTD WI]S^E maki:n'G. 113 

June, it stunts the Yines for the next season. One of the 
best remedies is to dig a trench 2 to 3 feet wide, at the 
side of the vineyard, from whence they are expected, into 
which they will tumble, and they should then be crushed 
by dragging a log or roller along the ditch. If this is done 
repeatedly they may be kept out. It is a strange occur- 
rence, however, that in the districts which they invaded 
in 1875, nearly all other injurious insects have since dis- 
appeared, and the crop of last season was exceptionally 
free from their ravages. 

Wasps and Bees are sometimes very troublesome when 
the fruit ripens, wounding the berries and sucking the 
juice. A great many can be caught by hanging up bottles 
with a little molasses, into which they will readily crawl 
and seal their fate. But while there are many injuri- 
ous insects, we may also count some of them among our 
best friends, which will greatly assist in destroying the 
others, and which we should hold iu grateful remem- 
brance. Among these is the little Lady Bug, the small 
red or yellow and black beetle, which is always on the 
look-out and very active in destroying the Aphis and 
White Thrip. These should be fostered, and not de- 
stroyed, as is done by many ignorant persons. The Man- 
tis, the Rear Horse, or Devil's Horse, as it is often called, 
but the correct name of which is Camel Cricket, is the 
friend of the vine-grower. It destroys countless num- 
bers of injurious insects, especially the native grasshop- 
pers and katydids, which are so apt to cut off the bunches 
just before ripening. They and their eggs, which are 
often found on the vines glued together in a mass, like a 
rather square cocoon, should be carefully preiscrved, and 
even colonized. We place our common toad among our 
friends, as it is a great destroyer of noxious insects, and 
always on the hunt for bugs of all kinds. The toads and 
our common active little lizards, shonld be treated with 
kindness by us, not killed, as they are by many unthink- 



114 AMERICAl^ GRAPE GROWING 

ing people who have a mistaken idea that they are inju- 
rious and poisonous. 

BIRDS. 

Generally speaking birds are the friends of the vintner, 
and should be fostered, not repelled, but there are a few 
species which rarely visit the vineyard except to feast 
upon the grapes, and these should be destroyed. The 
Oriole is one of these, and the best plan to get the little 
rascal is to place a few dry bushes above the trellis, on 
which he will alight and can then be shot. Or these 
twigs may be smeared with bird lime, to which he will 
stick. The Ked-bird, or Cardinal, the Thrush, and Cat- 
bird, are also very destructive, and it is still an open 
question with me whether to feed them with sweet grapes 
or to kill them and do without their sweet songs in the 
future. But our pretty little Quails, though they will oc- 
casionally pick berries when they hang within their reach, 
should certainly be fostered, not killed ; for they devour a 
great quantity of insects during the whole year, and though 
passionately fond of sport myself, I can not find it in 
me to shoot them when they make their home about the 
vineyard. Ducks, chickens, and turkeys are also very 
beneficial, destroying a multitude of injurious insects, 
but they should be kept out while the fruit ripens. 



AND WINE MAKING. 115 

CHAPTER XXV. 

FROSTS— WINTER PROTECTION. 

Our winters are rarely so severe as to injure or kill 
the hardiest varieties, such as Concord and Goethe, al- 
though the winters of 1863, 1872, 1874, and 1878, may 
be cited as iu stances when even these and Norton's were in- 
jured. They often, however, harm the Herbemont, Cun- 
ningham, and Lenoir. These can be protected by bend- 
ing the vines down in the fall, and covering them with 
earth thrown on with the plow. To prepare them for 
this, prune as soon as the wood is fully ripe, and after a 
rain, when the canes bend easily, go through, and while 
one man bends the canes down along the trellis, let the 
other throw a few spadefuls of earth upon them, to keep 
them down. Then follow with the plow, and they can 
be easily covered. But do not take them up in spring 
until danger of frost is over, for they will become more 
tender by being under ground all winter, and even a 
moderate frost will injure the buds. In taking up, run a 
fork under them and lift them out. They should not be 
covered too deep, a light protection is enough ; but to 
merely bend them down without covering, as some advise, 
is worse than leaving them on the trellis, as they are 
more easily injured here, where we do not often have 
snow to cover them. All hardy varieties should be cut 
loose in fall, as when the wind can sway them about they 
are not so apt to be injured. One of the surest preven- 
tives of injury by frost is, however, to plant none but the 
hardiest varieties. None of the corclifoUa class, as far as 
I know, have ever suffered, and here again the Elvira 
stands pre-eminent, as not a bud was hurt, even during 
the hard winters of 1872-'74 and, '78. 



110 AMEEICAi^ GRAPE GROWING 

But while we have methods to protect even the most; 
tender in winter, by a little extra labor, I know of no 
generally effective means of protection against early frosts 
in fall and late frosts in spring. We should, therefore, 
avoid all locations subject to these, which are generally 
those near small streams, creeks, and rivulets, while 
locations on the large rivers, and on the high table lands, 
are generally free from them, and have, in fact, a season 
of a month earlier in spring, and a month later in fall, 
free from frosts. This is certainly very important to the 
grape-grower, and he should look to it closely before 
choosing his location. It is sad and disheartening to see 
the fair promise of early spring browned, wilted, and 
blighted by a single night's frost. Bnt if it does occur, 
as it sometimes will, even in the best locations, do not 
become altogether discouraged. Every bud on the vine 
is, in fact, a triple one. The main fruit bud in the center 
will generally start first, and if this is destroyed, the two 
secondary buds will often push, and although they will 
not produce so many or as large bunches, will often yield 
a pretty fair crop. 

But the vines are threatened with the same danger in 
fall in these unfavorable locations ; to have one's grapes 
and the still growing canes withered by an early frost in 
fall, when jugt ripening, and fit for nothing but \inegar, 
is a sad disappointment. Therefore look well to this, 
and do not select an unfavorable location, when there is 
an abundance of the best to be had. 



AKD WIKE MAKIKG. 117 

CHAPTER XXYI. 

GIRDLING, THINNING, AND MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS. 

The method of girdling appears to have been invented 
by Col. Buchatt, of Metz, in 1745. He claimed for it 
that it would also greatly improve the quality of the fruit, 
as well as hasten its maturity. It cannot be denied that 
it accomplishes the latter ; it also seems to increase the 
size of the berries, but I hardly think the fruit compares 
in flavor with that ripened in a natural way. But it 
may be of practical benefit to those who wish to grow the 
fruit for early market, as it will enable them to supply 
their customers a w^eek earlier, and also make the fruit 
look better. I will, therefore, describe it briefly. It 
can be done" either on the wood of last year's growth, or 
upon the bearing shoot itself ; but in any case only upon 
such as can be spared at next fall pruning. If you de- 
sire to affect the fruit of a whole cane, or arm, cut away a 
ring of bark by passing your knife all around it, and 
make another circle about half an inch above the first, 
taking out the ring of bark between them. It should be 
done immediately after the fruit is set. The bunches of 
fruit above the incision will become larger, and the fruit 
ripen and color finely about a week before the fruit on 
the other canes. If a single shoot only is to be affected, 
make the ring just above its base. Of course, neither 
cane nor shoot, thus girdled, can be used for bearing 
next season, and must be cut away. About the same re- 
sult is obtained by twisting a wire tightly around the 
vine and thus arresting the flow of sap downwards, which 
then develops the fruit much faster. 

Ripening can also be hastened by planting against the 
south side of a wall or board fence, where the reflection 
of the rays of the sun will create a greater degree of 
warmth. 



118 AMERICAi^- GRAPE GROWIiq^G 

But nothing is more absurd than the practice of some, 
who will take away the leaves from the fruit, to hasten 
maturity. The leaves are the lungs of the plant, the 
conductors and elaborators of sap, and nothing can be more 
injurious than to take them away at the very time when 
most needed. The natural consequence is the withering 
and wilting of the bunches, and should they ripen at all, 
they will be flat and deficient in sugar and flavor. The 
injurious " cutting in " of the young growth late in 
August, already referred to, is about of a ^Diece with this 
folly, and will not only be detrimental to the fruit, but 
also to the ripening of the wood for next year. While 
all crowding of the young growth with the bearing canes 
should be avoided, to give free circulation of air, yet the 
leafy canopy of the young canes over the top of the trellis, 
will be in the highest degree beneficial to the ripening of 
the fruit. There is nothing more pleasing to the eye 
than a vineyard in September, with its wealth of dark- 
green foliage, and the rich clusters of the fruit beneath, 
coyly peeping from under their leafy covering. Good 
fruit will only ripen in partial shade, and such grapes 
will have a rich bloom and color, as well as a thin skin 
and a rich flavor, which those hanging in the scorching 
rays of the sun can never attain. 

THINNING THE FRUIT. 

It will sometimes be necessary to thin the fruit, in 
order to more thoroughly develop the remaining bunches. 
The best thinning is the reduction of bunches and bear- 
ing shoots, at the first summer-pruning, and which has 
already been mentioned. Let the vine dresser always re- 
member that one fine bunch is worth more than two or 
three small, badly grown ones and, therefore, take away 
all the small, imperfect bunches and weak shoots. If the 
number of bunches on each fruit-bearing branch is re- 
duced to two, it will do no injury, but make them so 



AN"D Wi:NrE MAKING. 119 

mucli more heavy and perfect. Thinning of the berries 
with a small pair of scissors, often resorted to with 
grapes grown under glass, is a very laborious process to 
follow in vineyard culture ^ though it will certainly make 
the remaining berries more perfect, it will hardly be 
generally adopted. 

RENEWING OLD VINES. 

Should a vineyard become old and feeble, it can be re- 
newed by layering. To prepare for this, prune all the 
old wood from the vines, leaving but the thriftiest young 
cane, then dig a trench from the vine along the trellis, 
say 3 feet long and 10 inches deep, cut off the surface 
roots of the vine and bend it down into the trench, 
fastening with a hook, and let about three buds of the 
young cane come out above the ground, at the end of 
the trench. Then fill up with well pulverized soil. The 
vine will make roots at every joint, become vigorous and 
young again. Of course a season's crop will be lost, but 
the vine will amply repay for it the season following. 

A FEW NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS. 

Prun-ing Shears. — These are very handy, as with 
them the work can be done quicker and easier than with 




Fig. 22.— PRuisriNG shears. 
a knife, and but a slight pressure of the hand will cut 
a strong vine. Figure 22 gives the shape of one for 
heavy pruning. They are now made by several establish- 



120 



AMERICA!^ GEAPE GROWIN^G 



ments, and can be had at nearly all good hardware stores. 
The springs should be of brass, as steel springs are apt to 
break. A much lighter and smaller kind, with but one 
spring, is very convenient for gathering grapes, clipping 
out unripe or imperfect berries, and also in making cut- 
tings. Shears will cut the stem easily and smoothly, with- 
out jarring the vine, and are much superior to a knife. 
No one who has tried them will want to use a knife again. 
PRUi^iKG Saws. — These are sometimes necessary to 
cut out old, diseased stumps, although if a vine is well 
managed this will seldom be necessary. Figure 23 shows 




Fig. 23.— PRUNING SAW. 

a kind very convenient for the purpose, as also for orchard 
pruning. The bow is of steel, the blade narrow, and so 
connected with the wooden handle, that it can be turned 
in any direction, and can be tightened by a screw and 
nut above. 



Ai^D WlifE MAKIi^G. 121 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

GATHERING AND MARKETING THE FRUIT. 

Here, of course, the yineyardist aims mainly at profit, 
and is often induced to cut the fruit when hardly colored, 
that he may realize a higher price by being early in the 
market. But if he values his reputation and wishes to 
create a lasting demand for his fruit, he should not mar- 
ket it before it is, at least, fully colored and eatable. 
The first Hartfords (a yery poor grape even when fully 
ripe), which are brought into market but half-colored, 
sour and unripe, generally spoil the demand for grapes 
for weeks thereafter. People buy them, try them, and 
pronounce them, as they really are, unfit to eat, and will 
not touch them again for some time. AYait, therefore, 
until your fruit is fully colored and fit to eat ; whoever 
buys of you then will buy again, and his stomach will 
not be soured and poisoned by unripe fruit. Again, what 
you may lose in price, you will gain in steady demand 
and higher figures all through the season, besides gaining 
in weight, for the riper the grapes (at least, until they 
are over-ripe and shrivel), the heavier they will weigh. 
Moreover, if grapes are not ripe when cut, they will shrivel 
and wilt (as they will not ripen after gathering), and thus 
will look indifferently if cut but a day or two. 

To ship them any considerable distance to market, they 
should be packed in shallow boxes, not more than two 
layers above each other. Paper boxes, holding about 3 to 
5 lbs. each, are now much used for the purpose, and fitted 
into crates so as to ship securely. They are more con- 
venient for the trade than the crates formerly used, with 
three drawers, and which are, therefore, nearly abandoned. 
6 



122 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

Gather only in dry weather, cut the bunches carefully, 
with as long a stem as possible for convenient handling, 
and clip out carefully all unripe, shrivelled, or decayed 
berries, taking care not to rub off their bloom. Then lay 
them evenly, with stems downwards, fill the boxes well 
to prevent shaking, filling all interstices with small 
bunches. It is better to press down slightly and evenly 
with the cover, than to pack too loose, as they at any rate 
shake down in carriage. The riper they are the safer they 
will carry. I have always obtained a higher price by wait- 
ing until the rush was over, and then selling when they be- 
came scarce. The Concord, Martha, Wilder, Goethe, and 
Elvira, have a very thin skin, and can not, therefore, be 
kept much after the first of October, but Lindley, Ives, 
Catawba, and especially North Carolina and Rogers' No. 
2, can be kept for months, having a tough skin. In- 
deed, Rogers' No. 2 would keep until March if stored 
away, packed in small boxes, in an even, cool tempera- 
ture. Norton's Virginia and Cynthiana can easily be 
kept all winter, and are very spicy and good, though they 
will shrivel somewhat. But, as mentioned before, any 
variety must be fully ripe to keep well. I think too little 
attention has been paid to the keeping of grapes until 
the holidays, at least, when high prices could be realized 
for them ; that this can be done has been proved be- 
yond a doubt. But for long keeping choose only the va- 
rieties with rather tough skins, and keep them in an 
even temperature of about 40°. They will keep better if 
fine i^aper is put between the layers, and the room should 
have the necessary ventilation. Examine from time to 
time, and remove all defective berries. 

The best package for carrying grapes to market, and 
which is now used almost entirely, is a cheap basket made 
of splints. These are made to hold 8, 12, and 18 lbs., 
with a cover fastened by clasps or wire. They can be had 
at the factory at 50c., 60c., and 70c. per dozen; they 



AND WIiq"E MAKIIsTG. 123 

have a bow handle in the middle, which serves as a pro- 
tection against tumbling about, and is also convenient in 
carrying. The basket is weighed with the fruit and sold 
at the same price per pound, and it is well worth this 
price to the purchaser for home use. This basket seems 
to be the perfection of a fruit package, and I think will 
come into general use for peaches, pears, plums, etc., be- 
ing light, cheap, durable, handy, and effectually protect- 
ing tlie fruit. 

It was a pleasing sight, indeed, to seethe stacks of these 
baskets at every vineyard and wharf on Crooked Lake, 
waiting for the little steamers which cross and re-cross 
the Lake to take them to Penn Yan, from whence they are 
shipped to all the principal city markets; finding their 
way to New York, Boston, Baltimore, Philadelphia, etc. , 
to be sold there at a price which enables ^ven the poorest 
family to feast occasionally on their luscious contents. 
There is a vast trade established in them already, which 
is steadily increasing. We can readily imagine that these 
shores will soon become one of the greatest of summer 
resorts, and that thousands upon thousands will leave the 
crowded cities, for a few weeks at least, to take a ^^ grape 
cure," as is now a common practice in Europe, to return 
to their duties in active life strengthened and invigorated 
by the pure air and health-giving diet. Truly this coun- 
try is a wonderful one, rich in all of God's blessings. 
That the American citizen, constantly in the rush and 
whirl of business, needs, above any and all others, such 
recreation as a visit like this would afford, none will de- 
ny. Let me hope that it will soon become fashionable 
(and it need but become so to be adopted by all who can 
afford it), to devote a few weeks annually to living a life 
of innocent recreation among the vineyards, and come 
back better, healthier, and stronger men and women. To 
accomplish this will be one of the successes of grajoe cul- 
ture, and not the least. 



124 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIN"G. 

GATHERING THE FRUIT FOR "WINE. 

All Yarieties wliere it is desirable to develop the fullest 
aroma, should be allowed to hang as long as it is safe to 
leave them, as the longer they hang on the vines, the 
more will their peculiar aroma be developed, and also the 
greater the amount of sugar. It will make a very material 
difference in the quality of such wines, if allowed to hang 
even a week later. But those varieties of which the pecu- 
liar aroma is not desirable, and which must at any rate 
be improved by adding sugar, had better be taken when 
barely ripe. Why I make this difference will be more 
fully explained in ^^ Wine Making." 

In gathering for wine use clean tin or wooden pails, cut 
the stems as short as possible, and clip or pick out all un- 
ripe, dry, or rotten berries, leaving none but perfectly 
sound berries on the bunch. The further process will 
be described in Part III. 



PART II. 

EXPERIENCE OF OTHER ORAPE GROWERS, 
WITH ITEMS OF GENERAL INTEREST. 



135 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

GRAPE GROWING IN SOUTHERN OHIO. 

BY GEO. W. CAMPBELL. 

Delaware, 0., Nov. 25, 1879. 
George Husmann, Esq. : 

Dear Sir. — Your favor of last month, asking from 
me some notes upon grapes, reached me at a time when 
I was so much occupied that I was unable to give it the 
attention I desired, and it has, therefore, lain unanswered 
longer than I intended. 

My experience with grapes, as you know, though ex- 
tending through many years, and including a large num- 
ber of varieties, has been mainly that of an amateur or 
experimentalist ; for though I have grown the vines 
largely in a commercial way, I have never made the grow- 
ing of grapes an important consideration, beyond what 
was necessary to ascertain their character, quality, and 
comparative value. 

This portion of Central Ohio is not specially favorable 
for grape growing, being subject to great extremes, and 
often sudden changes of temperature. Frosts, late in 
spring, often injure, and sometimes quite destroy the 
grape crop about the time of blooming and setting of the 
fruit. And we usually have frosts so early in autumn that 
only the early and medium-early varieties can be relied 
upon to mature. I have never seen either Catawba or 
Goethe perfectly matured here in fully exposed, open-air 
culture. A range of temperature from 98° in the shade 
in summer, to 25°, and even 30° below zero in winter, is 
also extremely trying, and none, except the hardiest vari- 
eties of grape vines, can endure such a climate without 
winter protection. 
127 



128 AMERICAi^ GRAPE GROWIKG 

Mildew of the foliage and rotting of the fruit, are, I 
think, less prevalent here than in many other places 
which are more favorable for grape growing in other 
respects. I mention these things, as tending to form or 
modify my o|)inions upon the character and value of 
varieties, believing you would better appreciate my views 
by having a pretty full understanding of the conditions 
under which they are formed. 

Grapes may be projoerly divided into two distinct 
classes : First, those that are, by their hardy and healthy 
character, adapted to general cultivation ; and second, 
those that are only suited to special or particular locali- 
ties. These miglit again be sub-divided into grapes for 
special uses, as for the table, and for wine making ; but 
I can notu in the limits of this brief communication at- 
tempt anything like a classification of varieties, as I pre- 
sume you have already done this in a manner far beyond 
my capabilities. 

As in most parts of the country, the Concord grape has 
been more extensively planted here than any other, and 
upon the whole, it may be said, its success has been 
greater than that of any other variety. For many years 
after its introduction it was exempt from both mildew 
and rot, yielding regular and good crops. It is still free 
from mildew of the foliage, but in unfavorable seasons, 
when there is an excess of rain with much warm, sultry, 
foggy weather about the time the fruit approaches ma- 
turity, in common with most other varieties, it has 
suffered seriously from rotting. The season just past 
has been a favorable one, and except where the vines 
were injured by the extreme severity of the previous Avin- 
ter, they have borne healthy and well matured crops. 

From the Concord have been grown many seedlings, 
some of which have attained considerable popularity, and 
will, doubtless, prove permanently valuable for the sec- 
tions where this class of grapes are most successful. 



AKD AVINE MAKII^-G. 129 

Among the most prominent of these are Martha, Eva, 
Lady, Worden's Seedling, and Moore's Early, the first 
named three being white, and the latter two black vari- 
eties. The Martha is, perhaps, too well known to need 
special description. Eva is a twin-sister of Martha, and 
the two are mnch alike. Several intelligent growers, 
however, are positive that they are quite distinct, with 
preferences for Eva, especially as to quality. 

The Lady grape is quite distinct from the above, or 
any other Concord seedling that I have seen. It is speci- 
ally remarkable for healthy growth, hardiness, very early 
ripening, and quality superior to any of its class, or to 
any other grape ripening at the same time. I believe it 
is generally conceded to be the best very early grape yet 
introduced. It ripens here from the 10th to the 20th of 
August, or two to three weeks earlier than Concord. In 
color, it is what is usually called white, but is a light, 
yellowish-green, and amber-tinted ^hen exposed to the 
sun. In size the berry is fully as large as Concord, clus- 
ters somewhat smaller. In flavor more delicate than 
Concord, as well as more vinous and sprightly. Its 
growth is compact and healthy, often a little slow for the 
first year or two, but constantly increasing in vigor, and 
my older vines, growing in a stiff clay, are all that I 
could wish, and make as strong and healthy vines, and as 
much wood as any Concords I have. It has been notice- 
able here that all the white seedlings from Concord have 
been much less disposed to rot than their parent. Neither 
* , Martha, Eva, nor Lady, has ever been seriously affected 
by this malady, and they have usually escaped entirely 
when Concord has suft'ered badly. I regard the Lady 
grape as chiefly valuable as an early grape for home use 
and for near market. The skin is quite thm, and would 
not bear rough handling, or shipping to distant markets, 
without great care. It has not been to my knowledge 
tested for wine making, but I believe it will be found su- 



130 AMEEICAK GRAPE GROWIKG 

perior to the Martha for this purpose, apparently having 
more vinous acid. 

AVoRDE^'s Seedlin^q I regard as an improvement upon 
the Concord, being earlier, handsomer in bunch and 
berry, and, to my taste, better flavored. The vine is 
vigorous and healthy, and though a httle weaker at first, 
when well established it is equal to Concord, and fully as 
productive. It ripens here a week or ten days before 
Concord, and is certainly one of the most promising of 
its class. 

Moore's Early is, in many respects, similar to Wor- 
den ; both Concord seedlings, and in general habit of 
growth and appearance closely following the parent stock. 
This variety has been, I think, greatly misrepresented as 
too early. I fruited it the past season and found it not 
more than ten days earlier than Concord, instead of a 
month, as had been claimed. There was scarcely any 
diSerence in time of maturity between it and Worden, 
and I could not see that Moore's Early was, in any re- 
spect, superior to it. It is but just to say, I have only 
fruited it one season, and upon but two vines, and my 
observations are made by comparison of the performance 
of the different kinds the past year. 

The BRiGHTOif grape has been extensively planted, 
and is quite prominent before the public as a promising 
new variety. I have seen very handsome and good grapes 
on exhibition from the introducers of it, but neglecting 
to give it winter protection it has been killed to the 
ground two years in succession, and I have not yet had it 
in fruit. The vine is vigorous in growth ; in general 
habit and appearance much like some of Eogers' Hybrids, 
and I think, will succeed wherever Rogers' grapes can be 
profitably grown. 

Purity. — The grape which I have named ^^ Purity," I 
yet have hopes may prove valuable, for it still maintains 



AND WIKE MAKING. 131 

its progressive character, improving in size of bmicli and 
berry every year. The vine is a very strong, hardy, and 
healthy gi'ower, making heavy, short-juinted canes, and 
large, thick foliage. In quality and flavor, the best of all 
the native grapes I have ever grown, Delaware not ex- 
cepted. It more resembles, in flavor, the foreign grapes 
of the Frontignac family, than anything I can compare it 
with, although it is, in eve^-y characteristic, a pure na- 
tive of the hardiest and healthiest type. Its one fault is 
want of size, in both bunch and berry. Its clusters are 
beautifully formed, never crowded, and never loose. In 
size, the berries were the past season perhaps a little 
larger than Delawares, the bunches averaged less. The 
parent vine made a remarkably strong growth the past 
season, and I think may now be considered as fully de- 
veloped. It has proved abundantly productive, and if 
my hopes and expectations, as to improvement in size, are 
realized the coming season, I shall probably introduce 
and offer it as a new and valuable variety. The Dela- 
ware is one of its parents. As to the other, I am not cer- 
tain whether it was Catawba or Martha. 

The Delaware is still grown in this neighborhood, 
and is, perhaps, more planted than any other variety 
after the Concord. Mildew of the foliage, and its ten- 
dency to overbear, are the only drawbacks to its successful 
culture. Its entire exemption from rot, even in the most 
unfavorable seasons, and under both neglect and ill treat- 
ment, is something remarkable, and where mildew of the 
foliage does not prevail, the Delaware may be regarded 
as one of our best, most reliable, and most j)rofitable 
grapes. And where grape growing is pursued with rea- 
sonable skill and intelligence, the proper use of Sulphur 
will control the mildew, and the timely exercise of brains 
will prevent the evils of overbearing. 

The Elvira has many good qualities, but I think will 
be of more value as a parent stock, from which new and 



132 AMEEICAi^ GEAPE GROWING 

improved varieties will spring, either by seedlings or by 
cross fertilizing with other natives, than in its individual 
capacity. I find it quite healthy, and among the hardi- 
est, as well as most productive of American grapes ; free 
from foxiness, but as grown here, rather negative in 
character, with always something of the immature flavor 
which characterizes the Taylor. In southern latitudes it 
is, doubtless, higher flavored, and valuable for wine mak- 
ing, and perhaps also for the table. Its great fault seems 
to be, excessive crowding of the berries in the clusters, 
which, accompanied with a thin and tender skin, causes 
the berries to crack and rot in the most wholesale manner 
about the time of ripening. This evil can be remedied 
by severe thinning out of the hemes, but this involves 
an amount of labor which would not be undertaken with 
our present views of vineyard culture. 

The past season seems to have been unusually prolific 
in the exhibition of promismg new varieties, and al- 
though time must be required to determine their true 
value, I think it evident that advance has been made in 
the direction of substantial progress. The JSToah grape 
seems to be a decided improvement upon the Elvira, 
having apparently all the merits without the serious faults 
of that variety. 

At the meeting of the American Pomological Society, 
at Rochester, in September last, several very handsome 
and attractive new varieties were shown, which will soon 
be offered to the public, and which appear to have sufiici- 
ent merits to render them worthy of extensive trial ; 
among these were : 

Niagara, a large white grape, of good quality, with 
heavy and apparently healthy foliage, and said to possess 
great productiveness and vigor of growth, was among the 
most promising. 

PocKLiNGTON", another white variety, claimed to be a 



AND WINE MAKING. 133 

Concord seedling, had very large and showy clusters of 
yellowish-white graj^es, medium in quality, but very at- 
tractive from the unusually large and handsome bunches-. 

Prentiss, another white variety closely resembling 
the Rebecca both in appearance and quality, but showing 
wonderful productiveness, and claimed to be of healthy 
and hardy growth, was quite noticeable. 

Lady Washington, claimed to be a cross between 
Concord and Allen's Hybrid (white), was both handsome 
and good ; white, and with very large clusters. It is one 
of the most attractive, and probably one of the best of 
Mr. Ricketts' many new varieties. 

Jefferson, a handsome new grape, claimed to be a 
cross of Concord and lona, resembling the latter variety, 
was very pure in flavor, and even finer than lona. Will 
be found very valuable if the vine is! hardy and healthy. 

There were also several other interesting and handsome 
new grapes in Mr. Ricketts' collection,, the value of which 
can only be determined by further trial. 

I think, judging from some years' experience with them, 
that some of Mr. Stephen Ilnderhill's hybrid grapes are 
worthy of more attention than they have received. The 
Croton grape is fully as healthy and hardy as Allen's 
Hybrid, more productive, and of finer quality. Irving 
is very large and showy, a strong grower also, as well as 
productive, and of very good quality ; as hardy and 
healthy as most of the hybrids, and for an amateur grape 
very desirable. 

Two black varieties, of the same originator, named 
Black Eagle and Black Defiance, I believe, will be found 
desirable wherever hybrid varieties can be successfully 
grown. 

I received also, the past autumn, early in September, 
two samples of new seedling grapes from the Delaware, 
which I consider worthy of mention, as promising to be 



134 AMERICAK GRAPE GROWIKG 

valuable acquisitions. The first, named '^^ Mabel/' from 
Freeport, Illinois, is like Delaware in color and general 
appearance, but with larger clusters and larger berries. 
It has much of the Delaware character and flavor ; the 
foliage is thick and heavy, and said to resist mildew as 
perfectly as Concord. 

The other is a white grape, from Camargo, Illinois, 
named " Willis," of good quality and handsome appear- 
ance, about the size of Delaware. 

There is another class of grapes of which the Hartford 
Prolific is the prototype, that I should be glad to see dis- 
carded from all lists, as unworthy of cultivation. Their 
only merit, in my judgment, is earliness in ripening — and 
their wretched quality is calculated only to disgust those 
who are tempted by their early appearance in the mar- 
kets. In the same category may be placed Janesville, 
Belvidere, Whitehall, Talman, and several others, which 
should not be tolerated where anything better can be 
grown. 

I have perhaps extended my remarks as far as may be 
desirable to you, and you are at liberty to make such use 
of them as you please, using or omitting any portion you 
may deem useful or otherwise. I can not, however, close 
without a word of congratulation and encouragement, 
arising from the fact that suflicient interest is taken in 
the subject of grape growing to call for a new work upon 
grapes. I think there are other indications that this 
great and important industry is reviving, and will again, 
at no distant period, occupy a prominent position among 
the horticultural pursuits of our country. The evidently 
increased interest taken in the discussions upon grapes 
and their culture, at the last meeeting of the American 
Pomological Society, was especially noticeable and gratify- 
ing to all lovers of this noble fruit. With my best wishes 
for your success, I am, very truly, your friend and co- 
laborer, Geo. W. Campbell. 



AND WIKE MAKIKa. 135 



CHAPTEK XXIX. 



GRAPE CULTURE AND WINE MAKING IN OHIO. 

BY M. B. BATBHA.M, SECRETARY, ETC., PAINESVILLE, O. 

The history of grape culture and wine making m this 
State' may be said to have commenced about thirty years 
ago, when Nicholas Longworth and a few other citizens 
of Cincinnati, devoted themselves, with much energy, to 
the planting of Catawba vineyards, on the clayey hillsides 
in the vicinity of that city. These vineyards, embracing 
several thousand acres, were, for a few years, so success- 
ful as to encourage liberal investment of capital and skill 
in the business of wine making, and in a little time 
" Longworth's Sparkling Catawba " and ^' Golden Eagle," 
became widely known as popular brands at fashionable 
dinners. 

But in a short time that fell scourge, the Eot, began to 
make havoc in their Catawba vineyards, and after re- 
peated failures of the crops from this cause, they were 
generally abandoned. Then followed the death of Mr. 
Longworth, and his wine business was given up by his 
heirs, though other parties have continued it in the city. 
It was found that the Ives Seedling grape resisted the at- 
tacks of mildew and rot, and made a good quality of 
cheap wine, hence it was largely planted in that vicinity; 
but in a few years this also succumbed to the rot and was 
mostly abandoned. In the meantime several of the wine 
makers planted Catawba vineyards on the Lake Shore, in 
Erie County, or made arrangements with vineyardists 
there to send them annual supplies for their cellars. 

Owing to the general exemption from mildew and rot 
of the vineyards on the Lake Shore and the Islands, much 
planting was done in that region ten to fifteen years ago, 



136 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWI]S"G 

not less than 5^000 acres were set in three or four years. 
But much of this planting was unwisely done — on badly 
chosen soil and with little preparation — so that nearly 
one-half the amount never paid the cost, and was sooner 
or later abandoned. In many parts of the interior of the 
State, smaller vineyards were also planted in those years, 
mostly of the Concord variety, the fruit designed chiefly 
for market. In a few hilly localities in the south-eastern 
quarter of the State, vineyards of moderate extent are 
cultivated successfully for wine ; the varieties, Catawba, 
Norton, and Ives. Within the past three or four years 
many of the Concord vineyards, which had previously 
been quite successful, have had their fruit destroyed by 
the rot, so that the owners are much discouraged, and 
some have grubbed out their vines. 

With all these causes of failure, I believe there have 
been destroyed not less than 10,000 acres of vineyards in 
Ohio during the past ten years ; and during the same 
time there have been planted, perhaps, 7,000 acres — leav- 
ing the aggregate at this time about 9,000 acres, or 3,000 
less than it was eight or ten years ago. Several hundred 
acres of Catawba vines are annually planted on the 
Islands — enough to make up for any that fail from age 
or other causes. Some i}lanting is also done every year 
in the more favorable districts along the Lake Shore and 
in the interior. 

The past season was more exempt from mildew and rot 
than for several years previous ; though a few localities 
suffered badly, from the effects of rainy and sultry 
weather in July, this was not of very wide extent. The 
warm weather of autumn ripened the Catawba better 
than usual, and a superior quality of wine is the result. 
The price paid to the growers on the Islands by the wine 
makers, was 4 cents per pound, by the ton, for good 
Catawba ; second class, 3y„ cents. 

About half of the vineyards of our State, or over 4,000 



AKD WIITE maki:n'g. 



137 



acres, are located on the Islands and the western part of 
oar Lake Shore. Of these, about seven-eighths are 
Catawba, the rest are Delaware, Concord, Norton, etc. 
More than three-fourths of the fruit is used for wine ; 
some is shipped to the city markets for table use. The 
crops are somewhat variable in amount and quality, and 
sometimes damage is done to the vines by the winters, or 
to the foliage by mildew, so that the fruit fails to ripen 
perfectly. Still, as an average, the profits are considered 
better than could be realized from any other use of the 
land. TJie price at which good vineyard locations on the 
Islands can now be bought is higher, I am told, than for 
several years past, ranging from $200 to 1400 per acre. 

Our statistics of the amount of yield per acre of our 
Island vineyards, and the amount of wine pressed an- 
nually, are not very full or reliable. The assessor's re- 
turns show that the aggregate of wine fo'r the State 
ranges from about 500,000 to over 1,000,000 gallons. 
The returns as published for 1878 are- 708,733 gallons, 
and the number of pounds of grapes gathered, 10,341,715. 
The entire statistics for that year for the two counties of 
Ottawa and Erie, which embrace the Islands and portions 
of the Lake Shore, are as follows : 



Counties. 


Acres of Vineyards. 


Ihuiids of Grapes. 


Gallons of Wine. 


Ottawa . . , o . . . 
Erie 


1,900 
1,271 


3,4-18,103 
1,924,275 


318,707 
151,133 







These figures are somewhat below the average yield of 
the past ten years, and only about half as great as those 
of exceptionally good seasons. The crop of 1879 was 
about equal in amount to that of 1878, and superior in 
quality. 

Painesville-, 0. 



138 



AMERICAK GEAPE GROWIKG 



CHAPTER XXX. 



GRAPE CULTURE AT KELLEY'S ISLAND, OHIO. 

BY ADDISON KELLET. 

This Island has some 650 acres in bearing vineyards, 
probably nine-tenths of the vines are Oatawbas ; Concords 
are next in quantity, being near half of the remaining 
tenth ; then Isabella, Delaware, Ives, Nortons, Hartford, 
Wilder (Rogers' No. 4), Clinton, and Oporto. There are 
some fifty other varieties, but 
only for amateurs and on triaL 
The land is prepared for setting 
by under-draining, by means of 
ditches from 'l^ / ^ to 3 feet deep, 
"With hollow drain, made mostly 
with thin, flat surface stone, set 
up on the bottom, as in figure 24, 
Another kind, called the 





Fig. 24. 

and covered. 

made as in fissure 25 



is 



Fig. 35. 

Shoulder drain," 
and covered or filled in with the 
earth that was thrown out ; distance apart, 32 or 40 feet, 
or in fourth or fifth rows. 

A few vineyards have tile-drains. Some vineyards have 
natural drainage, the rock (limestone) being cracked into 
open seams, with heavy marl over it, from 1 foot to 3 
feet deep ; this proves to be the best drainage. 

Roots one year old are usually planted. Where the soil 
is suitable, cuttings have proved as good as roots. They 
are put two in a place. Those that grow are quite as good 
as roots. Where both live, one is removed. The most 
common distance for planting is in rows 8 feet apart and 6 
feet in the row. The vines are cultivated like corn, for one, 
and sometimes two years, before trellising. The second 
year the vines are cut down to two buds, m the usual way. 
For trellising, posts are set, one to every four or five vines. 



AND Wli^E MAKII^-G. 139 

according to fcaste and size of posts ; T /^ or 8 feet posts 
are used, set 2'/, feet in the ground. The oldjsfc vine- 
yards have mostly No. 9 wire, but latterly Ne. 11 is con- 
sidered sufficient. Three wires, of the best annealed iron 
wire only, are used, the lower wire is 2 or %^ /^ feet above 
the ground, the other two equally divide the distance be- 
tween the lowest wire and the top of the trellis. Good, 
clean cultivation is required afterwards. I usually plow 
two or three times, and take care to cultivate well 
during the season. The first plowing is done in the 
spring as early as the ground is fit, after trimming and 
tying up the vines to the wires, with willow twigs, raised 
for the purpose. They are then hoed with pronged,hoes, 
and surface roots cut off to the depth of 4 to 6 inches 
from the surface of the ground. 

The third year, or first bearing year, the vines are cut to 
two branches and one spur of two buds, the bearing 
branches have from six to nine buds each, according to 
fancy and strength or size of cane. No summer-pruning 
is allowed by any one now, I think, except to break off 
any excess of suckers at the bottom, leaving one or two 
only for next year's spur. Summer-pruning injures the 
fruit both for wine and for the palate. 

There were raised here in 1879, between 1,350 and 
1,400 tons, of which not more than 40 tons were shipped 
for table use. The balance was made into wine; about 100 
tons were sold or sent elsewhere for wine. The Kelley 
Wine Company bought and made up about 9,000 tons ; 
average price paid for : Catawbas, 3'/, cents ; Concords, 
2 cents ; Delaware and Nortons, S'/^ cents ; Oporto and 
Clinton, 3 cents ; Ives, 2y^ cents ; Isabella, 1 cent. The 
crop on the Bass Islands — South, Middle, and North 
Bass, was as good as here. The acreage being more than 
here, probably amounting to 800 or 900 acres, and some 
larger, proportion shipped for table use. I have no sta- 
tistics. 



140 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

The crop was good on the Peninsula, 4 miles south of 
this place, while it was poor on the Lake Shore main- 
land, particularly east of here, in consequence of what is 
known here as ^' Greeley Rot," so called from its making 
its first appearance the year in which Horace Greeley 
run for President. 

There are a number of vineyards here on the north- 
eastern part of the Island that suffer badly by it, and it 
is working southwest slowly every year. The berry has 
the appearance of having a sting, showing a dark 
speck and turning Avhite immediately around it at first, 
then turning brown as it spreads ; the berry then be- 
comes black (not distinguishable from one attacked by 
mildew), rots, dries up, and falls off, or is easily shaken off. 
There are often two or more of the spots on one berry. 

The magnifying glass, or even microscope, does not 
disclose any egg or any puncture through the skin. If 
the speck is cut out or taken off with a sharp knife, the 
wound heals over, and no damage is sustained by the 
berry. In several vineyards here the damage caused by 
it is as great as that from the Phylloxera or mildew. I 
see that Prof. Riley claims that Phylloxera does not cause 
rot. Certainly high authority. It is true that mildew 
always precedes and accompanies rot, but we never had 
rot before we had Phylloxera ; and we do not now have 
mildew unless the insect is plenty enough to destroy all 
the new rootlets. May it not be that the Phylloxera 
causes mildew, and mildew rot ? The mildew only 
makes its appearance between the 24th and 28th of June 
the first time any year. If it does not come then, no 
fears need be entertained of its striking before the 24th 
to 28th of July. We had none this year before the latter 
period, when there was a rather light attack. August 
24th to 30th it was more severe, and the August rot 
always continues with more or less severity until the 
fruit is made up or consumed. The Phylloxera on the 



AND WIKE MAKING. 141 

roots were fewer than for five or six years past, or ever 
since I have examined them, and there was less mildew 
and rot. 

I have not examined the roots of vines having the 
" Greeley Rot," for Phylloxera, but shall make it a point 
to do so this year. My vineyards not being much effected 
by this rot, I have not looked after the matter as much 
as I should have done. 

The only remedy tried here for OicUum, or mildew rot, 
that any success is claimed for, is Sulphur; one part 
sulphur and two parts fine lime or plaster, are well mixed 
24 hours or more before using. The lime, or piaster, is 
for the purpose of neutralizing the acid in the sulphur. 
This proportion is used for the first application, after- 
ward equal parts of each ; it is blown on by bellows, and 
as much upon the underside of the leaves as possible. 

I think any application of this, other than from 22d to 
26th of the months of June, July, and August, proves 
worse than useless. 

The weather has little or nothing to do with this rot ; 
it clearly is not climatic. It always comes here at 
these periods named, if it comes at all, and no one can 
tell by the weather if it will come then or not. Hence 
the saying obtains here : '* It comes from pure cussed- 
ness." 1 examined the roots of my gooseberries that 
mildewed. I found them all badly diseased, the fine 
roots entirely dead. Is this always the case ? The 
kinds of grapes having the most Leaf-Phylloxera, or 
Leaf -gall, are most exempt from mildew. The Oporto 
and Clinton are free from mildew and rot, and also 
free from Phylloxera on the roots. I grafted lona and 
some other varieties that are subject to mildew rot, on 
Oporto roots. They did well for about three years, 
then mildewed the same as on their own stocks ; the 
roots also were infested the same, with Phylloxera. I 
grafted alternate vines in the row below the surface of 



142 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

the ground. The alternate Oportos not grafted remained 
exempt from the insects and mildew rot. The Concords 
suffer but little from mildew rot ; but the " Greeley 
rot " does not spare it, or any other kind of grapes. 
It seems to be " no respecter of persons/' where grapes 
are the persons. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 



GRAPE-GROWING AND WINE-MAKING ON LAKE KEUKA, OR 
CROOKED LAKE, STEUBEN CO., N. Y. 

BY THE AUTHOR. 

On a flying trip made last fall to the famous grape 
region on what was formerly called Crooked Lake, a 
name which the residents have since changed to Lake 
Keuka, I gathered a few items of interest, convincing 
me that there is indeed a great opening here, and I will 
give my readers such notes as a hasty visit of hardly two 
days enabled me to take. I regret that the superintend- 
ents of the leading wine companies (the Pleasant Valley 
and Urbana) did not furnish me with fuller data. 

There are about 6,000 acres of grapes on the shores of 
the lake, but the chief vineyards are between Pultney 
and Hammondsport — a distance of about 9 miles, which 
is an almost uninterrupted vineyard. There is quite a 
large cellar at Pultney, where I did not find time to stop. 
A few miles above Hammondsport are the cellars of 
the Urbana Wine Co., an imposing stone structure of 
three stories above the vaults, and 56 feet wide by 100 
feet long, to which have since been added 2 wings, 4 
stories in hight, of 40 by 80 feet, thus doubling their 
capacity. I suppose they could ccnveniently store and 
manufacture 400,000 gallons of wine, outside of the 



AND WINE MAKING. 143 

Champagne vaults, and have all the appliances in the 
shape of good cellars, casks, fermenting vats, and presses, 
to handle the grapes of half the neighborhood, besides the 
product of their own vineyards of about 100 acres, which 
produced about 170 tons of grapes last season. The 
grapes I saw made into wine there were very fine indeed, 
and should produce a superior article. Mr. Bricaut, 
their present wine-maker, acquired his experience in 
France, and he certainly makes fine sparkling wines, as 
the many awards taken by their products in this country 
and abroad, abundantly testify. From statistics fur- 
nished me by Mr. Clark Bell, the Vice-President of the 
Company, the sales of the Company, during the 
last year amounted to about 1105,238, of which 
$78,192 were still wines, 124,702 sparkling wines, 
$2,343 in Brandy. The price paid for grapes ranged 
from Ic. to 4c. per pound, of which Isabellas rank 
lowest, then Concord, then Catawbal, then Diana, lona, 
and Delaware highest. Their best wines are used mainly 
for Champagne, and the majority of other wine sold is 
Sweet Catawba, a wine I do not much admire. I am 
convinced, however, that a very superior still wine could 
be made from the grapes grown there. The vineyards 
are mostly let to men who work them on shares. They 
need good, red-wine grapes to make Clarets and Ports, 
and to judge from a sample of Nortons I tasted, which 
had been made there, I have no doubt they could be made. 
The Pleasant Valley Wine Co. is located at Rheims, a 
few miles back from Hammondsport. Mr. Jules Masson, 
an old acquaintance whom I met at Cincinnati in 1869, 
then in charge of the Longworth Wine House, is Super- 
intendent of the cellars here. Mr. D. Bauder is Secretary 
of the Company. I paid but a flying visit to their cellars, 
and could not look around much, but saw enough to con- 
vince me that the two Companies are worthy rivals. From 
notes furnished me by these gentlemen I gathered that 



144 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

in 1878 they had handled about 800 tons of grapes, and 
made 130,000 gallons of wine, of which 20,000 were 
manufactured into sparkling wines. They expected to 
handle about 1,500 tons of grapes during 1879, and 
to make something like 200,000 gallons of wine. The 
prices of both establishments seem to be about the same, 
$12 to 114 per case for sparkling, 70c. to 90c. per gallon 
for still wines. 

These represent but two of the main industries of that 
region. It may be safe to say that 500,000 gallons of 
wine are annually made there, and that fully one-half of 
the grapes, if not two-thirds, find their way to the mar- 
kets of New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Boston, and 
other large cities, for I saw them everywhere, and in 
such good condition, and at such low figures, as to place 
them within reach of the laboring classes. The steamers 
which make round trips every day, from Penn Yan to 
Hammondsport, one in the morning, and one in the after- 
noon, and which land at every pier and every vineyard 
where they can pick up freight and passengers, transport 
an immense quantity of grapes, at very low rates, and at 
the same time afford a convenient and pleasant oppor- 
tunity for tourists and visitors. I have no doubt that 
this and the neighboring lakes, with their beautiful 
scenery, and their many facilities for a j)leasant summer 
resort, will, in time, become as famous for their ^^ grape 
cures " as the Ehine and the Moselle are in the old world. 
They are within easy reach of all the crowded cities of 
the East, and to thousands will prove a more pleasant, 
because more quiet and rural, retreat during the hot 
months, than Saratoga. This is another phase of Ameri- 
can grape-growing, but little developed as yet, and which 
has only to become fashionable, to be fully appreciated. 



AN^D wi:n"e making. 145 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

GRAPE GROWING IN SOUTHERN TEXAS. 

BY G. ONDERDONK, MISSION VALLEY, VICTORIA CO., TEXAS. 

The following extracts from several letters to the 
author, give Mr. Onderdonk's experiences and views in 
his own language : 

[from letter dated JULY 19, 1876.] 

Mr. George Husmann : 

* * * The Department at Washington sometimes gets 
things confused as well as other people, as, for instance, 
when it reported the *^ Warren" and " Herbemont " un- 
der different classifications ; yet, I believe the Depart- 
ment is generally correct as to names. We are all sub- 
ject to confusion in the nomenclature of grapes. The 
grape at one time disseminated by some as the ^* Lenoir," 
and by others as the " Devereux," is the one I now send 
out as the Black July. I have procured it from the 
best establishments under these different names, and 
tested their identity on my grounds. I afterwards found 
that Berckman's, of Augusta, Ga., had a ^' Lenoir " grape. 
I ordered it at once, and this is the Lenoir of my nurs- 
ery. The Lenoir and Black Spanish, the former origi- 
nating in South Carolina, the latter in Natchez, Miss., 
entirely resemble one another in foliage and habit, and in 
fruit differ only in flavor, and sometimes, and during 
some seasons, I almost believe them so nearly identical 
as not to be worthy of a distinction (like the Warren and 
Herbemont, of distinct histories, yet finally treated as 
identical). My Lenoir, in the soil where it stands, is 
sweeter than the Black Spanish, or rather is less acid 
(for neither of them can be called sweet). They are both 
excellent bearers here, and neither will rot. 
7 



146 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIN^G 

The Devereux, or Black July, lias foliage very distinct 
from the Lenoir. The bunches as small, scarcely ever 
shouldered, and sweet, is also several days earlier than 
the other two. It must be used immediately when ripe, 
or it will rapidly decay. It is a shy bearer, and should 
rest even at that. My Black July is now ripe and gone, 
and are usually gone a week earlier than now. My Black 
Spanish are hardly ripe, but will do to market now. I 
have a plenty of bunches that will weigh a pound each, 
without resorting to special care to secure specimens, and 
I think I could get quite a number of Black Spanish 
bunches on every vine that would w^eigh 24 ounces. Of 
the Devereux, or Black July, I doubt if I ever made three 
bunches that would together weigh a pound. 

I give these data carefully, because I am aware of the 
confusion about these varieties, and wish to do my little 
share towards correcting our nomenclature. 

I did not try the Elvira, because I had so signally failed 
with its parents. In fact I do not feel much encourage- 
ment to experiment outside of the CBstivalis family for 
this region, and give large preference to the southern 
branch at that. Having carefully watched, on a small 
scale, on my own grounds, every family of grapes, includ- 
ing about 65 varieties, I have concluded that we must 
get our grapes from the southern branch of that family. 

The Pauline and Cunningham have suddenly become 
unthrifty, so that cuttings were scarce at the last prun- 
ing. I speak of the old vines. The few young vines are 
thrifty. The Cunningham grows so very compact upon 
the bunch that the berries break each other, and cause 
rot. For a year or so I have not been disposed to increase 
my small stock of these two varieties. The Black Span- 
ish and Warren continue to beat everything else here, and 
are established beyond dispute to be, thus far, our grapes. 
I do not exclude the Lenoir, which acts in every way like 
the Black Spanish. 



AJ^D WINE MAKIN-G. 147 

In my grape culture I have kept two objects in view : 
1st., to test such varieties as I deem promising, and 2d., 
to raise only enough to supply local demands for the 
fruit, and sufficient wood for my nursery. I had only 
aimed at local trade until last year's demands from France 
had induced me to plant cuttings to make plants for that 
market. If I thought that the French demand would 
continue I would make preparations to meet it, but I 
think they will soon raise their own plants and become 
independent of us. There are small vineyards scattered 
about, from which cuttings could be obtained for ship- 
ment ; but that is out of my line, and I could only oper- 
ate through the vineyardist, as my business presses at the 
cutting season. 



[from letter dated JANUARY 15, 1877.] 

* * * I will try the Elvira. If it roots deep like 
the cestivalis I shall expect its success, unless it ripens its 
leaves too early. But I had so fully made up my mind 
that our grapes had all to come from the cestivalis family, 
that I had ceased to make experiments with anything 
else. If the Elvira is related to that family I should 
hope for something from it. But I will try it anyhow. 

Some facts connected with the growth of the Lcibrusca 
and cestivalis varieties, have led me to think sometimes 
that the prime reason for the want of permanent success 
here with the Lalruscas, was their habit of rooting so 
near the surface. The CBstivalis continue to grow luxuri- 
antly through our long, hot, dry summers like cu- 
cumbers in rainy weather. On the other hand the La- 
hrusca varieties, without exception, take such a rest in 
the summer, that I have successfully removed them in 
August, when they are quite uniformly leafless. The 
September and October rains generally start the La- 



148 AMERICAIS' GRAPE GROWIiq"a 

hruscas into a full growth here. But even during rainy 
summers the Lalritscas cannot grow all summer. Their 
leaves attain maturity and must fall. I conclude, after 
all, that while the habit of shallow rooting with the La- 
bruscas, readily suggest this as a reason for want of 
adaptation, that it is not the only reason. I should say, 
in general terms, that every portion of the plant matured 
in a shorter length of time than is required in the case of 
the (Bstivalis, that the Labrusca requires a longer period 
of rest than the cBstivalis. Our climate will not give 
them this rest, and, therefore, the plant gives way. The 
Almighty has provided plants for the different latitudes, 
adapted by their constitution to their proper climates. 
When these plants are removed to a point where the cli- 
mate does not harmonize with their constitutions, then 
they must yield to the violence against their natures. 
Whether the lower temperature during the growing sea- 
son at the North prevented development, or the frost of 
the northern winter extinguishes life, or whether the 
long continued demands of a southern climate enervate, 
and finally destroy the life of a plant, the final result is 
the same. Chmate will govern the limit of our vege- 
table productions. 

If we will apply these views to grape culture, it will be 
seen that Nature has fixed her bounds in the constitu- 
tions of the different families of grapes. The experience 
of man must point out the limits fixed by the Creator's 
hand, and written upon and within every family of the 
vine. 

The shallow roots of the Labrusca can be warmed by 
the northern sun, but they are too much heated by the 
sun of our climate. The brief seasons of the North can 
ripen the different parts of the Labrusca, and then give 
the plant repose ; but our long seasons, first develop and 
then stimulate to exhaustion, the same family of grapes. 
Thus we fail with the Labrusca. I think that the want 



AND WINE MAKING. 149 

of climatic adaptation of the Lcihruscas here, extends to 
every portion of their structure. They start off beauti- 
fully and promise well for a time, but after two or three 
annual crops, they rapidly decline, showing every sign of 
premature old age. The southern limit of this family 
could be learned by a careful system of correspondence. 
Mr. E. W. Krausse, of Waco, a careful experimenter, has 
an experience with them similar to my own, and agrees 
with me in his conclusions. It appears also that the 
(Bstivalis of the Norton type are successful at Waco, three 
hundred miles north of me. Here, I liave not succeeded 
with them, I call them, for convenience, the l^orthern 
(Bstivalis. Those of the Herbemont type, belonging to 
the Southern group, seem to succeed anywhere North 
where the winters do not freeze them out. There are 
flourishing vineyards of the Herbemont, from my nursery, 
a hundred miles south of me. The Lenoir was planted 
tliere at the same time, but the Herbemont (Warren) has 
driven the Lenoir from these vineyards, as the former is 
there found every way superior in fruit, though only equal 
in vine. Texas is the true home of the Southern CBstivalis 
varieties of the grape. They endure both extremes of 
heat and cold, to which we are subject, and no drouth, 
however severe, can affect the plants unfavorably when 
they are once established. They must be allowed a 
plenty of wood in pruning. 



[prom letter dated FEBRUARY 23, 1877.] 

* * * The Clinton and Golden Clinton are the only 
cordifoUa varieties that I have tried here. They died 
during the sixth year, having produced two good crops. 
My own theory has been, and yet is, something like this: 
That the Southern mstivalis must furnish the grapes for 
the extreme South, either by itself or by hybridization on 



150 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

Southern natives. That the northern limit of the South- 
ern cBstivalis is governed by the isothermal line beyond 
which it is killed by the cold of winter. 

That the Northern cesfivalis will flourish still further 
north, because it endures a lower temperature, but will 
give poor results in the extreme South, yet will do well in 
the northern portion of the Southern cBstivalis belt. 

That the Lahruscas belong still north of the Northern 
CBstivalis, but will thrive in the northern portion of the 
Northern cBstivalis belt, while below that region it will 
appear successful for a time, but decline after two or 
three crops. 

That the coi'difolia will succeed in both the Lahrusca 
and Northern cBstivalis belt, but will fail in the southern 
portion of the Southern csstivalis belt. 

That these families of grapes will give first class success 
only in their climatic bounds, not because of any one 
peculiar feature in their growth, but because of their 
construction throughout the various parts of their being. 

And finally, that these families of grapes must (with 
allowances to be made for different degrees of humidity) 
become the grapes for the whole world. 

I will qualify the above by placing the rotundifoUa in 
the southern part of the Southern mstivalis belt. 

I believe that if your experience and my own were upon 
the same ground, we should agree throughout. I am 
aware that this is rank heresy, or would be treated as such 
by the old school of horticulturist. Very good, they are 
my convictions. If you bring this thing before the pun- 
lie, or if I should do so myself (as I have thought I would 
do), it will encounter a storm. But men like Bush, 
Jaeger, and I will add. Prof. Krausse, of Waco, Texas, 
and other unpretending students will grant a friendly re- 
ception, and time will confirm the matter. I am fight- 
ing upon that line myself, and am glad to find another, 
and I may add, many others, upon the same side. 



Al^B WINE MAKIJi^G. 151 

I began grape culture by following the old methods. I 
have learned to see that their teachings may do in New 
York or New England, but is inapplicable in this coun- 
try. They see matters as they appear in their climate. 
They want Labruscas and their hybrids. We do not. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

THE GRAPES OF SOUTHERN TEXAS. 

BY G. ONDERDONK. 

Mission Valley, Texas, August 18, 1879, 
Mr. George Husmann : 

Dear Sir. — I write in reply to yours of July 25th, 
concerning the grapes of Southern Texas. 

The Mustang C Vitis candicans) is scattered profusely 
in every variety of situation and soil all over Southern 
Texas. It comprises many varieties differing in form, 
color, and season of ripening. The fruit is from large to 
very large ; some varieties attaining the size of the 
Goethe. The prevailing color is black. It is remarkable 
for the great thickness and excessive acidity of the skin. 
The pulp does not contain more than a fair share of acid, 
but is quite destitute of sugar in all of its varieties. By 
the addition of two pounds of sugar to the gallon, it 
makes a wine of some reputation. 

The Post Oak Grape ( F. Lincecumii, of Buckley), 
does not grow in this region. 

The Bush Grape (F. rupestris) is here confined to 
the mountains. It is a small, scrubby grower, and bears 
only once in three or four years. The leaves remind one 
of the rotundifolia. It is not found in the valleys, and 



152 AMEEICAK GRAPE GEOWIl^G 

will only succeed in the most limy barren soils, where 
nothing else will grow. All attempts to raise it in the 
coast region have failed, and yet I suspect that its failure 
with us has been a matter of soil, and not of climate. 
Having a small spot just like the soil of the mountains I 
mean to test the matter. While it is true that this spe- 
cies is quite worthless for cultivation here for the fruit, 
yet as it its roots seem to be proof against Phylloxera, it 
may be found valuable as a stock for the vinifera. 
Some interesting experiments are in progress, with a 
view to this use of the rupeshis. Four-year-old grafts 
are yet highly promising. There is hope that by using 
the rupestris as a stock, we may yet succeed with some 
of the European varieties in spite of the Phylloxera, 
wherever we can command the required soil. This ex- 
periment is also being made in France with strong hopes 
of success. 

The SouTHERi^ ^stivalis, not native here, must 
furnish the main supply of varieties for Southern Texas. 
Twenty-five years ago but few residents of this region be- 
lieved it possible to succeed with any variety of cultivated 
grapes. Mr. J. M. Voigt, then a resident here, and since 
of Hermann, Mo., began the first systematic, persistent 
experiments, with which I became acquainted in about 
1855. He mostly cultivated Catawba, and extended his 
experiments to about thirty-five varieties. I began simi- 
lar experiments in 1858. I experimented with every 
class that has been reduced to the service of the vineyard- 
ist. The result was that I found nothing to give perma- 
nent success outside of the southern branch of the V. 
cestivalis. We call it Southern cestivalis for brevity, 
without assuming authority to fix a designation. I ab- 
hor a multiplication of unnecessary classifications. But 
the forces of Nature have driven us to a distinction be- 
tween what a few of us call Northern and Southern 
(Bstivalis ; and the very singular climate of Southern 



AKD WINE MAKING. 153 

Texas forces a local recognition of a further sub-division 
for practical local use. But I have not the audacity to 
imagine the propriety of a general acceptance of this 
sub-division for the country at large. 

The members of the Southern mstivalis class, which 
may be represented by the Devereux, Louisiana, and 
Cunningham, have grown off beautifully here, but have 
borne lightly, and, except the Devereux, have rotted 
badly, and all have proved short lived. I think that 
these varieties belong a very little fuj'ther north. 

On the other hand, the Herbemont and Lenoir are 
here perfect in every respect, taking a very decided pre- 
cedence over all other tested varieties. We have two new 
varieties of what I shall here, for convenience, call the 
Herbemont Division. First, the Harvvood, which is 
simply an enlarged Herbemont. Second, the Dunn 
grape, which is a little larger than Herbemont, considera- 
bly paler, and a few days later. I have been watching 
the original Harwood vine for ten years, and am led to 
place an increased value upon it. I regret that it is not 
very successfully propagated by cuttings. My attention 
has but recently become dn*ected toward the Dunn grape. 
But from the very close resemblance in foliage and habit 
which both of these varieties bear to the Herbemont, 
which is our most successful grape, I feel as sure as one 
could do, short of a complete demonstration, that these 
varieties will both prove to be treasures. Both will be 
tliorouf^hly tested and offered to the public. 



EMORANDA FROM MR. ONDERDONK. 

Cunningham (of Berckmans). — Pale amber, gener- 
ally shouldered, very compact ; was discovered wild by 
Judge Long, near Athens, Ga. Downing describes Cun- 
ninsrham as ^Mjlack.'' 



154 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

Black July (Berckmans'). — Also known as Dever- 
eux, Lincoln, Sumpter, Sherry, Blue Grape, Thurmond, 
McLean, Tully, Husson, Hart (Lenoir incorrectly). It 
has been found wild in various places in Georgia and 
Alabama. 

Lenoir (Berckmans')- — Burgundy in Eastern Texas. 
Black Spanish in Western Texas. May possibly be the 
Jacques of Mississippi — possibly the Cigar Box, or Ohio 
of Longworth, but I do not believe it. I shall be able to 
settle this question in a couple of years. Berckmans got 
this Lenoir from Dr. Decaredene when the variety first 
came out from Lenoir County, South Carolina. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

THE VINEYARD IN TEXAS. 

BY G. ONDEBDONK, ESQ., OF MISSION VALLEY NURSEBIES. 

{From Burke's Almanac^ 1878.) 

It was written of the different classes of grapes by an 
eminent Northern Pomologist, a few years ago, that 
^* Practically it is of little consequence what view is 
taken of these usual forms, * * as the cultivator is 
interested in them only as varieties, and it is of no par- 
ticular moment to him whether we have one hundred, 
or only one native species." Too many cultivators have 
too long acted upon this idea, or rather this want of 
ideas, concerning the grape. I do not know " all about 
grapes," but for the last twenty years I have devoted 
much care to grape-culture in Western Texas, and the 
results reached have come from dearly bought experi- 



AND WINE MAKING. 155 

ence, and careful observation from a climatic stand- 
point not yet occupied by our older and more north- 
ern horticulturists. I can hardly give my general con- 
chisions in less spj,c3 than to condense them from a 
letter written to Prof. Husmann last year. 

My own theory, as applied to the United States, has 
been, and yet is, something like this : That besides the 
rotundifoUa, the Southern iB^tivalis family (of which the 
Herbemont, Louisiana, and Lenoir are types), must fur- 
nish the grapes for the extreme South, either by itself, 
or by hybridization on southern natives. That the 
northern limit of the Southern cesHvaUs is governed by 
the isothermal line, beyond which it fails, for a sufficient 
time, to receive the needed heat in summer, or is killed 
by the cold of winter. That the Northern cestivalis (of 
which the Cynthiana/and 'K piston ar,e a type) will flourish 
still further Goi'th,' brut wiil gi',V pfJor'^xesults in the ex- 
treme South. That the regions or zbiies of the ostivalis 
family qverlap eacli "other 'ill ths northern portions of 
Texas and 'other localities."" '' ' , '' 

That tne LahHism family belongs, ylill "north of the 
cestivalis, but ^'iir tliri^' c iir the' northern portion of the 
Northern mstivalis l^elt; "v^bille below that region it will 
appear successful for a time, but decline after two or 
three good crops. 

That the cordifolia will succeed in both the Labrusca 
and Northern mstivalis belt, but will fail in the southern 
portion of the Southern mstivalis belt. 

That the vifiifera varieties, although adapted to our 
climate, must fail everywhere sooner or later, on account 
of Phylloxera, except in localities where they are pro- 
tected by special causes. 

That the above families of grapes will give first-class 
results only in their climatic bounds, not because of any 
one peculiar feature of the growth, but because of their 
constitution throughout the various parts of their being. 



156 AMERICAi^" GEAPE GIlOWII^G 

And finally, that these families of grapes must, with 
allowances to be made for different degrees of humidity, 
become the grapes for their respective zones throughout 
the whole world. In stating this general proposition, it 
is not disputed but that families with which the horti- 
culturists are yet unacquainted, may supply varieties in 
the future, and that the viticulture of every zone may be 
enriched by new hybrid combinations of material belong- 
ing to the same belt. But I do protest against the system 
of wholesale waste of labor and dissipation of capital, 
which, I believe, must ever result from the indiscriminate 
planting of every and any variety, whether it belongs to 
our region or not. 

I began grape-culture by following old masters of the 
far Northeast. I learned to see that while their teaching 
may do for New York and ^Nev/: England, it does not 
apply to our region. They w.mt LabruvMS, cordifolias, 
and their hybrids. We^ do not,^ bqc^use they are not 
adapted here. , It is in vain that we may determine that 
because our, fant?y Jeads us to prefer this or tliat variety, 
that we will, thai efoFj; insist upon its, cultivation whether 
it is constitutionally''ada[pt(^d or 'net. - While jieculiar sur- 
roundings, natural or artificial, may favor diiferent vari- 
eties of different families, yet common sense tells us that 
these exceptions do not disprove a rule, and experience 
teaches the necessity of following the demands of Na- 
ture. And what are the demands of Nature in determin- 
ing the varieties of grapes for Texas ? 

While in Northern Texas it is quite likely that the 
whole of the Labrusca family will continue to give only 
temporary success, yet the Northern cestivalis, which may 
be represented by the Oynthiana and Norton, may prove 
successful as well as the Southern mstivalis, represented 
by the Herbemont, Louisiana, Lenoir, etc. If I under- 
stand Prof. Krausse, of Waco, that the Oynthiana suc- 
ceeds well with him, I should then presume in favor of 



AND WII^E MAKIl^G. 157 

the whole ISTorthern cBst waits family, until experience 
should prove the contrary. 

My own personal experience is confined to Southern 
Texas. Here the Southern CBstivalis varieties have fur- 
nished our success, except in localities where prevailing 
obstacles are overcome by some special cause. Our very 
best grapes for the table or wine is the Herbemont, 
also known as the Wan-en. The Lenoir, known better 
at Houston as the Burgundy, and at San Antonio as the 
Black Spanish, is also hardy and productive, although 
not so good for the table as the AVarren. Both are 
excellent for wine, and both took prizes at Montpelier, 
France, where over six hundred varieties of wine were 
exhibited. 

The Warren will produce in the fourth year from plant- 
ing, 500 gallons of pure juice to the acre on common, 
unmanured upland, that will not make more than 20 
bushels of corn to the acre. The whole family prefer dry 
soils, and do not object to a large proportion of lime in 
the soil. The Lenoir comes into bearing a trifle later 
than the Warren, but I believe the yield is finally satis- 
factory. About San Antonio and New Braunfels the 
Lenoir is the prevailing grape. In this (Victoria) and 
adjoining counties, the Warren has driven the Lenoir 
quite out of cultivation. The Louisiana also promises 
well. The Cunningham grows well, but wants a dryer 
air than we often have in Victoria County. 

We have a new Southern CBstivalis grape, that seems to 
combine the qualities of the Warren, Avith the size of 
the Eumelan. It originated in the garden of Col. Har- 
wood, at Gronzales, and by him is called the '' Improved 
Warren." It has, as yet, been tested in only a few in- 
stances, and if it succeeds as it has begun, then it is the 
rare treasure we have been looking for for the last twenty- 
five years. Capt. Jones (the pioneer fruit-grower at 
Gonzales) and myself agreed to call this new grape the 



158 AMERICAK GRAPE GROWIKG 

Harwood, in honor of its originator, and it is dissemi- 
nated both from his nursery and my own as the Har- 
ivood. We hope that the name will he accepted. 

While the *^ lists " of many nurseries teem with a host 
of varieties, each one of which is recommended to be just 
what every customer wants, yet the truth seems to be 
that there is no ona region to which many varieties are 
perfectly adapted. The cultivators of each region find 
themselves finally driven to a very small number of vari- 
eties for profit. If the Oynthiana was blotted out in 
Missouri, or the Isabella and Delaware in New York, and 
so on, one or two varieties were blotted out from each 
general locality, it would prove a staggering blow to 
grape-culture. And if we in Texas have only a few va- 
rieties suited to oar region, we yet have as many success- 
ful ones as many older communities that boast of success. 
It is within the memory of living men, that the famous 
grape regions of the North were, in grape culture, far 
behind what Texas is to-day. Already our southern 
Herbemont can scarcely be surpassed in value by any 
northern variety. 

The time and skill which have been expended by North- 
ern horticulturists upon northern families of grapes 
have vastly improved their vineyards. But we of the 
extreme South have a similar work to perform, and 
may well expect that when a corresponding amount of 
effort has been made to improve the hitherto neglected 
Southern cBstivalis family of grapes, then may we expect 
to excel our Northern cousins in the production of the 
vine, as far as we excel them in the natural advantages 
of our incomparable climate and the abundance and 
richness of our natural resources. Perhaps I am an 
enthusiast, but with the light of twenty-seven years of 
horticultural study and experience in Western Texas, 
with a fair knowledge of the North and the great 
Northwest, and in view of our recent progress and 



AKD WIKE MAKING. 159 

present position in liorticulture, and considering also 
our improving communications with the outside world, 
it seems to me that the day is near when Texas shall be 
regarded truly by the nation and the world, as indeed 
the Italy of America— the Empire State of the Union — 
the great garden of the Continent. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

GRAPE GROWING IN WESTERN TEXAS. 

BY RUDOLPH EIKEL, NEW BRAUNFELS. 

My first experiments in grape culture in this country 
were made more than thirty years ago, with Euroj^ean va- 
rieties (Vitis vimfera). The vines grew very well for 
several years, but seldom produced fruit. One of my 
neighbors once grew a very fair crop of Riessling, and 
the wine made from them was delicious. But all these 
experiments failed eventually, the vines lived and grew 
for several years, but died out finally. 

I then planted several acres with Black Spanish, which 
had been successfully tested here, and could be grown 
with good results. I also received about thirty varieties of 
American grapes from St. Louis ; among them I found 
three which flourish well here, and which can be grow^n 
with certainty, viz. : the Herbemont, Rnlander, and 
I(Ouisiana. The Herbemont is eqhal to the Black Span- 
ish in growth and productiveness. 

The Black Spanish is equally successful in black ^ ^gum- 
bo " soil or sand, on the hills as well as in valleys, but the 
hill-sides are preferable, as it can not stand wet weather, 
and the fruit rots when exposed to it. The bunches are 
long and compact, berry small, with thin skin, black, 



IGO AMERICAif GRAPE GROWING 

with brisk siib-acid juice, which makes a fine wine of 
dark-red, ahnost bLick color. The wine is also known 
here as El Paso, and it is generally believed that it was 
introduced from Mexico, which I do not believe, how- 
ever, as I cannot find that it is grown at El Paso, or in 
Mexico. It was first planted here by a Mr. Merriweather, 
about 25 years ago, who undoubtedly brought it from his 
native State, Mississippi. 

Among the wild varieties here is the Vitis rupestris. 
It grows in stony limestone soil, also in the gravelly soils 
of our steep hillsides. It grows vigorously, but does not 
make long canes. The fruit is medium, very sweet, and 
ripens in August. I have great hopes of this grape, and 
believe that it has a future. I planted it about 3 years 
ago, especially as a stock for other varieties, and have 
had great success so far. I have grafted several of the 
best viniferas on it, among others, three varieties of Mal- 
aga, Eiessling, Blue and White Tokay, Chasselas de 
Fontainebleau, and Gutedel, and they have all grown 
satisfactorily. Some of them have had some very choice 
fruit this season, although very young yet. It is, how- 
ever, a new experiment, and time alone can show whether 
it will be ultimately successful. 

We have also three varieties of Mustang grape, blue, 
white, and red ; the two last are seldom met with ; the 
blue is very abundant, especially on the banks of our 
rivers ; it bears abundantly, the berries are large, rather 
acid, and make a tolerably fair red wine, which is pro- 
duced in considcral^le quantity. It ripens in July. 

The so-called Winter Grape ( VitU cordifolia) grows in 
great abundance here, on stony hillsides, and also in our 
river bottoms, bears pretty well ; berry small, nearly 
black, with thin skin. It ripens in September, and 
makes a very good, fiery wine of dark-red color, much bet- 
ter than that from the Mustang. There is a good deal 



AlfD WIKE MAKIi^G. 101 

of wine made from this also, and the wine from the hill- 
sides is much better than that from the bottoms. 

Grape growing is still in its infancy here, but has a 
future in this State ; soil and climate are favorable to 
grape-culture, and will surely be taken advantage of 
in time. The cultivation of the Black Spanish has 
been followed so successfully, that it attracts more and 
more attention every year. It will take several years 
yet, before other varieties are found which can be grown 
equally well ; but this is only a question of time, and, 
as remarked before, we have several varieties already, 
which could be cultivated with profit, but I believe the 
Black Spanish will remain our leading variety. 



[Note.] — I have cultivated the Black Spanish here 
in Missouri, and made an excellent wine from it sev- 
eral times. It is the same grape that has been dis- 
tributed by the Department of Agriculture as Dever- 
eux, and it makes a splendid red wine indeed, but is 
too far north, and too much subject to mildew here to 
be successful. It seems to me that where this and the 
Ilerbemont succeed so well as they seem to do in Texas, 
it will be difficult to find grapes that will surpass them 
in the quantity and excellence of their wines. G. H. 



162 AMEEICAiq^ GRAPE GROWING 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Br QUSTAF ETSEN. 

EisEN Vineyard, ) 

Fresno, Fresno Co., California, >• 
December 1st, 1879. ) 
George Husmann, Esq. : 

Dear Sir. — Your kind letter just received. If you 
had written to me earlier I would have taken pleasure in 
furnishing you with some notes regarding grape culture 
and wine making in Fresno. At this late hour I must 
restrict myself to the most preliminary statement, hoping 
it will not come too late if you should deem it of suffici- 
ent interest to be used in your forthcoming work on 
Grape Culture. 

California takes, already, a prominent place among 
grape-growing countries, and furnishes within its limited 
area so many different climates and localities, that nearly 
every kind or variety of grapes will flourish here. For 
example, in the hills of Sonoma we meet with the most 
perfect Eiessling, producing wines of a light, delicate cast, 
and 200 miles further south in Fresno Co., the summer 
is both warm and long enough to produce such wines as 
Port and Sherry, which, according to such experts as 
Rev. I. Bleasdale, in Melbourne, equal some of the very 
finest Portuguese wines. Only six or seven years ago, 
Fresno Co. was generally considered as a most barren 
waste, a desert in fact, where the dry, and during the 
summer, cracked soil, was thought to indicate the utmost 
poverty. Our plain extends 100 miles, at least, in every 
direction ; on the north side it is bordered by the large 
San Joaquin River, and on the east and on the south by 
an equally large stream. King's River. The fact that 



AND WINE MAKING. 163 

water for irrigation was to be found so near r.t hand, 
caused several to suspect that the land was not altogether 
so worthless as generally believed. The Southern Pacific 
Railroad was drawn through the county, the water was 
taken out from the rivers and made to flow through the 
plains, and to-day, only six years after settlement, we 
pride ourselves on having the finest vineyards in the 
State, and the brightest prospects for the future. 

Grapes, as well as everything else, have to be grown 
Avith irrigation. The land must be leveled, and so pre- 
pared that it can be flooded whenever needed. The soil 
is very variable, but consists principally of three varie- 
ties. First, a red clay soil ; this is the best for grapes. 
Second, a white, ashy-alluvial soil, evidently made up most- 
ly of pumice stone, the original beds of which can yet be 
seen at the foot-hills ; this soil is much poorer both for 
grapes and other plants. Third, a sandy, yellow soil, 
poor in organic matters, and always occurring on elevated 
places ; this soil is worthless for grapes. 

My brother's vineyard consists, principally, of the first 
named soil. The first year the land had to be flooded 
SIX or seven times during the summer, to make the cut- 
tings grow, but now the whole country seems to be filled 
up with water, and one irrigation during the winter is 
enough. Cuttings planted directly in the vineyard Last 
year, needed only two irrigations during the summer, 
and will after this need only one every winter. The first 
year we found water at a deptli of 65 feet. Last summer 
we found it at a distance of 6 feet below the surface. We 
have found that the best way of starting a vineyard is to 
plant cuttings directly in the ground where they are to 
remain. Generally we plant the cuttings, say 2 feet deep, 
but for a trial, I planted some 5 feet deep, and the latter 
at one year old were several times larger than the for- 
mer, and bore quite a crop the first summer. Our soil is 
deep and loose, and free from stones. This enables us 



164 AMEEICAiq- GRAPE GROWING 

to plant all the grapes with a crowbar, taking care to fill 
the holes well. Of course we plant all the cuttinga 
straight up and down. Two men can, in this way, com- 
fortably plant 1,200 cuttings a day, and sometimes more. 
We plant the cuttings 8 by 8 feet apart, leaving a road at 
every twenty rows of vines. 

I have found that the best way is, to have the grapes 
planted in checks or squares, of say S'/^ acres, having a 
good solid bank of earth all round the same. Near to, 
and on these banks, no grapes should be planted, because 
they must be free to receive the prunings every winter, 
and which prunings must be burned on these banks every 
spring, so as to kill all the weeds and insects injurious to 
the grapes. In this way a good deal of hosing is saved. 
I plow 4 inches deep and cultivate crossways, and keep 
cultivating the whole summer. Some parts of the vine- 
yard I cultivated as much as seventeen times last summer. 

In December, or as soon as the vintage is over, I begin 
to prune the vines. I cut off all the superfluous wood, 
taking care not to touch those canes which are to bear 
the next year's crop. Those I leave altogether until the 
middle of April, when I trim them back to two or three 
eyes as required. The reason for this is, that we nearly 
always have heavy frosts between the 6th and 12th of 
April, and if then the fruit buds have started they are 
sure to be lost. By leaving long canes, however, I 
manage to keep them dormant until after the froyty sea- 
son. Between February and April we have no frost. 
' The trunk on our vines is generally kept to 2 feet, and 
many of the superior grapes rest on the ground and ma- 
ture there. We use neither stakes nor trellis. 

The grapes ripen generally in the middle of August, 
and the vintage can then begin. Some varieties, how- 
ever, have been known to be ripe in favorable years as 
early as the 4th of July. The percentage of sugar is gen- 
erally very large, average 14° to 16°, but sometimes as 



AN-D WIKE MAKIl^G. 165 

high as 16° on Beaume's saccharometer, when at the same 
time pure water shows 2° on the same scale. 

The Eisen Vineyard comprises at present 160 acres, and 
every year about 20 a-cres are added, the bulk of the 
grapes being Zinhndel, Malvoisie, and Fahirzozos, the 
former two producing Claret and Port, the latter White 
Wine. The Zinfindel is here considered the best grape ; 
its color is excellent, and its jEavor and acid splendid. 
The vines average 25 lbs. each of grapes, but as much as 
50 lbs. have often been raised on certain varieties, such as 
Chasselas, Eose of Peru, and others. A peculiar trait of 
some grapes is that they do not color. The Eose of Peru, 
elsewhere considered one of the finest black grapes, loses 
its color here entirely, while the Zinfindel always retains 
its dark color. In Stockton, 150 miles from here, the 
contrary takes place. There the Eose of Peru is ahvays 
of a dark, black color, while the Zinfindel turns nearly 
white. 

Besides the above varieties, we have on the place, in 
different quantities, nearly 100 varieties, mostly foreign, 
but it is also our intention to experiment with Ameri- 
can varieties, especially those of the cestivalis and cor- 
difolia classes. Of the former we have a few hundred 
of Norton's Virginia ; they have grown enormously, 
but will not fruit before next year. 

The must we ferment in tanks containing 2,000 or 
2,500 gallons, and the wine is kept in casks of the 
same. size. The brandy distilled from mash and wine 
is of a very high quality, according to Eev. Dr. Bleas- 
dale and other experts, is entirely free from fusel oil, 
and of a very fine natural bouquet. 



IGG AMEBIC AN^ GRAPE GROWING 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

VITICULTURE IN SONOMA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA. 

BY JULIUS DRESEL. 

When the first American emigrants came to California, 
they found vines already planted in many places, especi- 
ally around the religious colonies, or missions, established 
by the Jesuit Fathers. From this fact was derived the 
name. Mission grape, for that vigorous, but rather coarse, 
originally Spanish, red grape, which soon spread over the 
whole State, and has ever since provided the market with 
the California Hock, Claret, Port, and Angelica wines. 
Soon, however, the best European varieties from Hungary, 
Germany, and France, were introduced, they grew equally 
well nearly everywhere, and were designated as '^ For- 
eigns." Some of these foreign varieties are mainly raised 
for table use, as Flaming Tokay, Black Hamburg, Muscat 
of Alexandria, and many others, or to be turned into 
raisins ; but our best white wines are now principally 
made from the Eiessling, Gutedel (Chasselas), Muscatel, 
Burger, and the red, by preference, from the Zinfindel. 

As labor was too high to allow of the use of the hoe, 
our vineyards had to be cultivated by the plow, and con- 
sequently the vines were planted 8 feet, sometimes 6 feet, 
and lately 7 feet a23art each way, allowing the single plow 
as well as a two-horse team to pass both ways. The 
ground is laid out with the chain, every 7 feet being 
marked by a small, white stick, and the cuttings, or 
better rootlings, are planted ; these are 20 inches long 
and placed slantingly, in holes dug by the spade, about 2 
feet deep. The stick is, two years later, replaced by a 
strong stake S'/^ to 4 feet long, to which to tie the vine 
until the stem, commonly 18 inches to 2 feet high, is big 



AND WINE MAKING. 167 

enough (after about six years) to su2:)port its fruit and 
umbrella-like foliage, by itself. 

Pruning is done during winter, but in the lower places 
as late as possible, to retard the starting of the vines, as 
there is danger of the morning frosts, which sometimes 
set in even as late as the 15th of May. We allow the 
grown vines from five to nine spurs of two eyes each, ac- 
cording to age and size, excepting the Riessling, wdiich 
has been found to bear more if left with long spurs of 
four eyes and some short spurs besides. During spring 
the plowing, harrowing, and weeding with the cultivator, 
are done. After the beginning of May no more work is 
needed, as the constant sunshine will not permit any 
weeds to grow ; only about blossoming time, during the 
first weeks of June, Flowers of Sulphur is applied with 
bellows, as a preventive of or cure for mildew, which pre- 
vails in certain localities. Towards the end of September 
the grapes are ready for picking, and the harvest con- 
tinues through October, and may be finished as well in 
November, the sun shining all the wiiile. Occasionally 
indeed, some rain falls in October, but very seldom any 
damao-e is done. 

Entire failures in the crop, as well as great difference 
in the quality of the fruit, are unknown here ; but 
though there have been 50 pounds of grapes seen on one 
vine, and whole vineyards of the Mission grape averaging 
36 pounds, it would not be a safe calculation to put the 
average yield of one yine at more than about half a gal- 
lon. The devastations of the Phylloxera, which will 
hereafter have to be taken into account, can be effectively 
met by grafting on Phylloxera proof American stock of 
Frost grape, or riimria species ; for instance, on Taylor 
and. Elvira. The experiments in this direction, that have 
been tried in France, have also been successful here so far. 

Regarding the quality of the wines of California, they 
have been rated as too rich in alcohol, and rather deficient 



168 AMEIIICA.K GRAPE GROWIiq^G 

in acid. They carry indeed, from 10 to 13 per cent of 
alcohol, but then there are, happily, those years when 
the grape, in its super-abundance of juice, develops less 
saccharine matter ; and besides we have, luckily, yarieties 
which, even up to maturity, retain an agreeable acidity, 
and are invaluable not only in themselves, as Zinfindel, 
but also for cutting purposes, as Burger, to impart more 
acidity to the Mission, or its superiors, the Gutedel, Mus- 
catel, Eiessling, and others. 

It is now over twenty years that the bulk of our vine- 
yards have been laid out, and ever since we had to con- 
tend with fearful odds to fairly establish this interesting 
branch of industry. A high rate of interest, high wages 
for white labor — -the Chinaman is one dollar a day — the 
unpopularity of the article and its ruinously low prices, 
all combined to make our progress a really thorny one. 
!N"ot with standing this we may look back with satisfaction 
upon our struggle, for did we not come out victoriously 
at last ? The market for our wines is finally made, they 
have spread, they are appreciated, and in good demand 
all over the Union ; and considering their intrinsic value, 
and their scarcity, in comparison with the population of 
this country, I think we are justified in expecting now 
better times for our viticulture. Thereupon we act, the 
old pioneer is undismayed, new vineyards continue to be 
planted, and even before they have grown up, Americans 
will have improved so much in the knowledge of wines, 
that the quantity of all the precious wines California can 
raise wilW)e utterly insufficient for the future consump- 
tion of our nation. Yes, this peculiar, temperance-fos- 
tering industry will yet grow to be a blessing for the 
people and — a splendid business after all. 



AKD WIKE MAKIiq-G, 169 



CHAPTEE XXXYIIL 

VITICULTURE IN NAPA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA. 

BY H. W. CRABB, OF OAKVILLE. 

The caltivation of tlie vine in this State was com- 
menced bj the Mission Fathers three-quarters of a cen- 
tury ago, with a single variety. The history of its origin 
is not known, further than t;hat it is identical with the Pisca 
vine I imported from Chili — one of the oldest varieties in 
cultivation there, and is the brandy grape of that coun- 
try, as the Mission grape has become of this. It is a 
vigorous grower and a good bearer, containing a high per 
cent of sugar, and a small degree of acid, and is well 
adapted for Sherry, Madeira, and Angelica wines, and for 
Brandy. 

The Riesshng, White Pineau, and Chasselas stand at 
the head of the list for dry, white wines, on account of 
their lightness, fineness, and delicacy of flavor. Black 
Burgundy, Zmfindel, and Charboneau are our best varie- 
ties for Claret. The first makes a dark, full-bodied, and 
richly-flavored wine. The second has a fine raspberry 
flavor, but rather an excess of acid, and is a little light, 
both in body and color. The last one, like the Tinto, 
has but one characteristic color. Black Malvoisie is our 
best Port wine grape. The large White Muscatel makes 
the finest raisins, and the White Malaga the next best ; I 
while the raisms of the Seedless Sultana are the ne plus 
ultra for culinary purposes. 

In planting and grafting, only the cuttings of bearing 

canes are used, and are worth from 12 to $5 per thousand. 

In planting I plow the ground twice, sub-soiling it the 

las^ time, then harrow well and roll it. Make a chain c'' 

8 



170 AMEIlICAJq" GRAPE ailOWIXG 

No. 12 or 14 steel wire 1G5 feet long, and put on it a drop 
of solder every G'/^ feet, beginning fifteen inches from 
one end, which serves to make a loop for an iron pin 13 
inches loig, to stick in the ground to hold the chain. 
Square the ground, chain along one side, setting a sma,ll 
peg or stake at each drop on the chain, then stretch tl.o 
chain at right angles across the end, and chain back from 
the other end of the chain, setting a peg at each drop a3 
before, which marks out one block. Now stretch the 
chain across the block, and plant 24 rows, leaving tbo 
rows of pegs for avenues. Make a dibble out of a piece 
of V I ^ inch gas pipe, by welding and sharpening one end 
and putting a pin near the other for the hands and one 
for the foot. Make a hole with this and insert the cutting 
and tighten it by shoving the dibble down by one side and 
pressing the ground against it. I use cuttings IG inches 
long, leaving two buds above the surface. If rooted 
vines are used, cut the roots back close to the stock. We 
set about 500 per day to the man, and 1,000 to the acre. 
From four to eight men work on a chain, and we can 
work from two to four chains or gangs on a block. This 
plan is very simple, speedy, and accurate, and any kind 
of help can do the work correctly ; it is equally well 
adapted to planting small fruits and trees after the holes 
are dug. We usually plant the last of March and first 
of April ; the loss is from 5 to 10 per cent. 

Among the various methods of grafting, I have had the 
best success by sawing off the vine from 4 to 6 inches 
- below the surface of the ground, making a clean cut with 
a razor a little diagonally, and inserting one or two scions, 
covering the cleft or cut with a piece of cloth, and filling 
up with fine earth. The graft must be staked and kept 
well tied up the first season, and a fair crop of grapes 
may be expected the next. Grafting should be done here 
in February and March. Two men can graft about 100 
vines per day, 



AKD Vri:sE MAKIKG. 171 

I prune with low heads and short spurs of two fruit 
buds each. Any yariety that will not yield from four to 
six tons per acre is pruned in this manner: I leave from 
two to four canes of 2 feet each, and about as many short 
spurs of two buds each, for long canes the next year, 
when the long ones are to be entirely remoyed. The 
Eiessling, Muscatel, and some others, will yield twice 
as much by this method of pruning, as the other. Oc- 
casionally there are instances reported of a single variety, 
or a small vineyard, yielding 10, 12, 14, aud even 20 tons 
on irrigated land, but such crops are a positive injury to 
both fruit and vine. My vineyard of 120 acres yielded 
in 1878, 5y.^ tons per acre, on 30 acres of which the vines 
were only three years old, but this season, on account of 
cold rains, alternated by extreme heat, while the vines 
were in bloom, the same vineyard only had an average of 
4 tons. The crop throughout the State is about one- 
fourth short. 

In 1876 the business dragged heavily, nearly bankrupt- 
ing numbers. Wines were in large stock and had to be 
sold to distillers and vinegar factories, at 10 to 15 cents 
per gallon. Savings banks refused to make loans on 
vineyard property, considering that vines added no value 
to the land v/^hatever. Even many small vineyards were 
dug out. Mission grapes sold from 18 to 110 per ton. I 
could only get an offer of $13 per ton for a lot of 300 
tons of grapes of choice foreign varieties, delivered at the 
cellar and payable in three, six, and nine months. There 
was no market for our wines. They were in bad repute, 
due mamly to adulterating processes which were carried 
on to a very great extent m the interest of importers, and 
for the purpose of crushmg the wine and brandy manu- 
facture here. But since that time the business has 
steadily increased. The report of the Surveyor General 
of the State for the year 1876 gave 35,000 acres of vine- 
yards ; the next year 41,000 ; the next 77,000 ; and this 



172 AMERICAN GKAPE GROWING 

year may be estimated at from 85,000 to 90,000 acres, 
making an average increase of about 35 per cent for the 
last four years. In 1876 we exported by sea and rail 
1,115,000 gallons wine, and 59,000 gallons brandy. In 
1878 the exports were, of wine, 1,812,000 gallons, and of 
brandy, 129,000 gallons ; and this year the estimates are 
2,224,000 gallons of wine, and 160,000 gallons of brandy. 
The French wine imports have decreased from 7,000,000 
gallons in 1872, to 2,486,000 in 1877. About an average 
of 30 per cent per year. This increase and reversion of 
trade may be attributed to our protective tariff, the rav- 
ages of the Phylloxera in Europe, and to the genuineness 
and acknowledged merit of our wines. I commenced 
making wine about the 20th of September, and did the 
crushing, stemming, and pumping by steam power. The 
crusher is an improvement on a French pattern, and is 
capable of crushing and stemming over 100 tons per day, 
doing the work in the most perfect manner. My pro- 
duct for the season is about 225,000 gallons, and that of 
the County, about 1,700,000 gallons. The last report of 
the Surveyor General gives the product of the State as 
7,790,000 gallons, or about 50 per cent of the entire pro- 
duction of the United States. 

Tlie crop of raisins cured annually is valued at from 
$60,000 to 180,000. This year's yield is probably 600 
tons, or 60,000 boxes of 20 pounds each, worth at whole- 
sale from 11.50 to 12 per box. This branch of the grape 
interest is increasing rapidly. The present active demand 
and advance m price, with a partial failure of the crop in 
Spain, will give a lively stimulus to the business. 

There are now about 130,000,000 of capital invested 
here in the grape and wine interest, and it gives employ- 
ment to more than 12,000 persons. 

Many new vineyards, and large additions to old ones, 
will be planted this year. In fact, I believe there will be 
as many planted this season as there were in the last 



AND WINE MAKING. 173 

three years. GrajDes have steadily advanced in price 
since 1876, at the rate of $2 per ton each year, bringing 
the last season from $15 to 125 per ton, and large cellars 
of wine have been sold at 25 cents per gallon. 

The Phylloxera, as yet, is not found outside of Sonoma 
Co., where a few vineyards have been more or less in- 
jured. It does not make the rapid progress ascribed to 
it in Europe and, I believe, has not 3^et appeared here in 
the winged form. I believe it is attributable to old age, 
bed-rock, or hard-pan near the surface, and exhausted 
soil, whereby the vine becomes impoverished, and in that 
condition it is just as natural for it to be attacked by 
some parasite or insect as an impoverished animal is to 
become covered with vermin. 

It is estimated that there are 40,000,000 acres of land 
in this State well adapted to viticulture, and the time is 
not far distant when the vineyard product will exceed 
all the other resources of the State combined. ' 

If the industry be not stifled by Congressional legisla- 
tion, whoever lives a half a century hence, will find the 
grapes of California in every city of the Union ; her rai- 
sins supplying the whole Western Hemisphere ; her wines 
in every mart of the globe, and then, with her golden 
shores, her sunny clime, her vine-clad hills and plains, 
will California, indeed, be the Vineland of the world. 



174 AMERICAN GEAPE GROWIiTG 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

GRAPE CULTURE IN MARYLAND. -CASHIN'S TRELLISES. 

BY T. D. CASHIN, HAGEKSTOWN, MD. 

The following is by T. D. Casliin, an experienced fruit 
grower and nurseryman, who, in a letter dated February 
5th, 1880, writes : 

'' My grand object is to get a superior grape for market 
alone that will be free from rot. One of our would-be 
scientific men here says, that all seedlings of Taylor will 
inherit its defect of failing to fertilize its fruit, but of 
course you are more capable of judging in that matter 
than a mere theorist. In fact, the grape-growers of Mis- 
souri are doing more for the future and permanence of 
American grape-culture, than all others in the United 
States combined. Our Eastern people are all following 
the old beaten track — Lairusca and its hybrids, leading 
to the same final result — failure ; at least that is my 
opinion after 14 years of study and experience. I mean 
to try the Amber in the spring. I have an excellent ri- 
paria {cordifoUa) seedling of my own ; in quality it is 
better than Elvira, but not so large." 

In a letter dated February 16th, he writes as follows : 
" Dear Sir — Your letter and the picture of the Amber 
grape reached me a few days ago. Thanks for the in- 
formation given in regard to varieties that I am interested 
in. For the past three years I have been searching for 
such a grape as the Amber ; the bunch is elegant, and 
must be, I am sure, much finer in Nature's colors than 
as represented in the plate. 

"1 certainly agree with you that the grape-growers in 
Missouri who are endeavoring to improve the riparia 



ASiD WINE MAKIJ^G. 175 

(cordifolia) species, are working on the right basis, and 
hope that they will be amply rewarded for the time, 
patience, and study required in the undertaking. 

^' Of late years I have been experimenting and observing 
as to the proper methods of training vines of this class, 
taking Clinton as the subject to work upon, and find that 
the form of an arbor or canopy is the most successful, 
as it approaches more nearly to the growth of the vine in 
its natural state. I have two methods, one for vines 
planted 10 feet or more apart, the other for those at a 
lesser distance. The first may be called the ^^ Horizontal 
Spiral" method, the other "Horizontal Zig-Zag," long- 
arm and spur-pruning is followed in both ; they include 
the principle of retarding the flow of sap towards the top 
of the vine, thereby, to a great extent, equalizing the dis- 
tribution of fruit and wood-forming material. The trel- 
lises are durable and inexpensive, and do away with near- 
ly all the labor of tying. I am very glad indeed if you 
have found anything in my former brief letter that may 
be of interest to others, and if you think that drawings 
of the above named methods of training might possibly 
be useful additions to your book, I shall be happ}^ to fur- 
nish them. 

" I have, so far, succeeded in raising only two vines from 
the original riparia seedling, but shall take pleasure in 
sending you one of them early in the spring for trial. I 
have named it the " Golden Delaware," and am certain 
that it will compare favorably with its namesake. The leaf 
is strong and folds in a peculiar manner, and the fruit is 
exceedingly delicate and refined — assuming a beautiful, 
golden color when ripe." 

In compliance with a request for a description of the 
methods of training referred to in the foregoing letter, 
Mr. Cashin furnishes the following, accompanied by 
sketches from which the engravings are made : 



176 AMERICAI^ GRAPE GROWING 

cashin's trellises. 

The methods of training shown in the illustrations 
(figs. 26 and 27) haye many advantages over those com- 
monly used by grape-growers, and are well adapted to 
our strong growing native vines, especially thoHe of the 
cordifolia or riparia species. Some of the advantages 
may be named as follows : Cheapness, simplicity, and a 
great saving in the labor of tying, which is almost done 
away with except after intervals of years when the arms 
are renewed, then ties are necessary to hold the arms in 
place for the first season, after which they retain the form 
given them. Tying is an important item, as many 
grape-growers know to their cost. 

The horizontal position of the vine and droopmg form 
which the fruiting canes assume, are in accord with the 
natural habit of the grape-vine. This and the check 
given to the flow of sap towards the top of the vine by 
winding the arms around poles, as in figure 26, or bend- 
ing them in a serpentine form, as in figure 27, has the 
effect of more evenly distributing wood-producing and 
fruit-forming material, thereby keeping w^ a proper bal- 
ance between the top and base of the vine. 

In both methods the fruit hangs under the foliage and 
is shaded from the glare and heat of the sun. Grapes 
protected in this manner have a much finer bloom than 
when exposed. The canes are pruned to spurs of two or 
three buds. Summer-pruning is not resorted to except 
to repress the overgrowth of canes to the end that there 
may be a free circulation of air under the vines ; though 
there can be no doubt that a judicious summer-pruning 
would be beneficial. 

What I have called the ^' Horizontal Sj^iral " method, 
is shown in figure 26. The trellis is formed of locust 
stakes 5'/,, feet long, Sy^ inches thick, and are set to a 
depth of 18 inches, leaving them 4 feet high. Eound 



k 



AJ^D WINE MAKIi^^G. 



177 



cliestniit poles of nearly the same thickness as the 
stakes are nailed to the top of them, the ends of the poles 
being made to lap, one upon the other. This method can 
be used to advantage in vineyards where the vines are 




Fig. 26. — HORIRONTAL SPIRAL METHOD. 

planted closely, say from 5 to 8 feet apart in the rows ; 8 
feet would be the better distance, the rows being 7 feet 
apart. The winding of the arm allows an increase in its 



length of about one-third. 
The '' Horizontal Zig-Zag 



method is shown in figure 




Fig. 27.— HORIZONTAL ZIG-ZAG METHOD. 

27 ; this is intended for strong-growing varieties. The 
vines may*be planted from 9 to 12 feet apart in the rows, 
which may be 9 feet apart. In this method the bending 
of the arms allow an increase in their length of about 



178 AMERICAK GRAPE GROWING 

two-thirds of the space alloted to them ; for instance, if 
the distance between the vines in the row were 9 feet, the 
arms would be 15 feet in length. The stakes are the 
same as in figure 26, but instead of poles, pieces of 2 by 4- 
inch scantling 16 inches long are nailed crosswise on the 
top of each stake. Two wires (No. 10) rest on the cross- 
pieces 14 inches apart, resembling the arrangement of 
telegraph wires, and are fastened with small staples. At 
the end of the rows the wires are attached to iron pins 
sunk in larger cross-pieces, which are spiked to posts ; 
the heads of these pins are square, so tLat the wires can 
be tightened or loosened as required, with a wrench. 

In starting a yineyard I allow the vines to grow at will 
during the first season, keeping the ground loose and free 
from weeds ; m the fall or early winter the vines are cut 
back, leaving but two canes shortened to two buds each. 
If there is but one really strong cane, it is pruned to 
three buds, and the other shoots on the vine cut away al- 
together. In the spring of the second year the stakes are 
l^ut in, and only three canes to each vine allowed to grow. 
When the two stronger ones have attained a length of 
2 feet, the weaker cane is removed, and the others care- 
fully tied to the stake with cotton cloth. The ends of 
these are pinched when they have reached the hight of 
the stake (4 feet), and then whatever laterals that may 
appear are allow^ed to grow unchecked. The fall-pruning 
consists of merely cutting off the laterals. Then, or 
early in the following spring, the trellis is completed. 

During the third season a few bunches of fruit are 
suffered to remain on each vine, from three to six, accord- 
ing to the strength of growth, but none whatever on weak 
vines, and ull shoots bearing fruit are pinched to three 
joints beyond the bunches. The other shoots are removed, 
excepting the topmost one, on each cane ; these are left 
to grow unchecked, and, m order that they may make a 
strong growth, not allowed to bear fruit this season. 



AJ^-D WINE MAKING, 179 

These are the arms, and as they extend arc trained hori- 
zontally — to the right and left of the vine along the poles 
or wires as the case may be, and tied with some soft ma- 
terial. 

In the fall, or before March 1st of the fourth year, the 
shoots on the lower part of the vine are all cut off ; the 
arms are trimmed of weak or unripe wood, and then, as 
in figure 26, they are Avound around the poles, one to the 
right, the other to the left of the vine, and the tips fas- 
tened to the pole with double-pointed carpet tacks. Arms 
from the next vines in the row are wound on the same 
poles, between and following the same curves as the first, 
and fastened in like manner, so that there will be tw^o 
arms in each space between the vines. Should an arm 
fail to gain the length required to fill the space allotted 
to it, it can be lengthened the same season by terminal 
shoots. 

In figure 27 the arms are bent to and fro in a zig-zag 
manner, and rest on top of the wires ; the bends or elbows 
are extended about 2'/^ inches beyond the wires on either 
side ; the bends are formed in succession, and tied to the 
wire at each point where they rest upon it, making tw^o 
ties at each bend. 

The arms are thus kept in place for the first season of 
their training, after which they retain the form given 
them, and are held m position by the shoots of new wood 
growing under and over the wires. 

Two arms are used in the same space if desired, but 
they should be bent to cross each other in opposite direc- 
tions, instead of follow^mg the same curve. In eitl^ci 
method the arms should be renewed after intervals of five 
or six years. This is done by cutting back one arm on 
each vine to its lowest shoot, and wdien a new arm has 
growai from this, the other arm is cut back and renewed 
in like manner. 



180 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIIJG 

CHAPTER XL. 

GRAPE CULTURE IN MISSOURI. 

BY THE HON. FK. MUENCH. 

{Extract from a Letter written for tJie Am. Whie wid Grape Grower.) 

*'l. I must wonder, that still the Herbemont, Lenoir, 
Devereux, Elsinburg, Eumelan, Norton, Oynthiana, Cun- 
ningham, Hermann, Louisiana, Humboldt, Neosho, etc., 
are thrown together as belonging to the mstivalis class. 
In truth, there is as much essential difference between 
some of those vines as between the Clinton and Concords. 
A certam class of vines to which the Herbemont, Lenoir, 
Cunningham, Devereux, Rulander, Louisiana, and their 
seedlings, and probably the Delaware belong, and which 
are by some named southern mstivalis, are m my * School 
for American Grap3 Culture' designated as ^ inmfera- 
like ' for the following reasons : Some of them (as the 
Louisiana and Rulander) are ostensibly or undoubtedly 
of European origin — others may be descended from the 
seeds of imported vines (as the Delaware) found grow- 
ing wild in the woods near the place where once Joseph 
Bonaparte lived, and most similar to the well-known 
Traminer which he had tried to cultivate on his villa ; 
others may first have been planted by the Huguenots 
in South Carolina and elsewhere, and disseminated by 
birds ; at any rate, these vines, materially differing from 
all our indigenous varieties, are so nearly related to the 
Vitis vinifera, that, for instance, visiting the vineyards 
near Zurich, m Switzerland (in 1859), I could hardly dis- 
tinguish the vines growing there from our own Herbe- 
mont. Thus we have here a quite peculiar class of vines 
not to be amalgamated with the true CBstivalis or any 
other grape family. 



AND WINE MAKING. 181 

" 2. Most surely are the mstivaUs vines — in combina- 
tion with a number of Taylor seedlings — best suited for 
the vast region extending between the 40th and 3Gth de- 
gree of latitude, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ; 
north of this region is th-e true home of the Labrusca 
vines and the earlier Taylor seedlings (Noah, Black Pearl, 
etc. ), while south of it the Scuppernong and some vinifera- 
like, and also cBsHvalis vines thrive best. Chiefly the 
middle portion of the Mississippi Valley (Missouri, Ar- 
kansas, etc.) is apt to produce from our best mstivaUs 
vines dark wines of the highest excellence. 

^^3. All the cestivalis vines tried by me are not only 
^Phylloxera-proof,' but also rot-proof, except in the most 
unfavorable seasons in unsuitable positions, and by care- 
less and unreasonable treatment. 

^^4. As a general thing the berries of the mstivaUs 
grapes are destitute of pulp, but there are several inferior 
as well as most highly valuable. Some mstivaUs vines 
are very pulpy, for instance, the Far West (first grown 
by me from a scion plucked in the original forests of 
Newton Co., in S. W. Missouri), which yields a red wine, 
declared by connoisseurs to be of the finest flavor and 
aroma, quite new, and as yet unsurpassed. 

*'5. It is lost labor to try to propagate some of the 
mstivaUs vines from cuttings, or even in propagating 
houses, such as Neosho, Far West, and the Arkansas va- 
rieties, the w^ood of which is as hard as white-thorn 
(which fits them to withstand our variable climate and 
the whims of our weather); they must be propagated 
either by grafting (they will not grow well on Lahrusca 
roots) or by very careful layering. 

''Q, The Elsinburg I would rather class among the 
corclifoUas, it being apparently near akin to the Clinton. 

*^ 7. The Ives, Perkins, and the like, I do not consider 



182 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

worth cultivating, while with us the noble Cynthiana 
and Neosho do remarkably well, to which other highly 
valuable Western varieties will soon be added." 



CHAPTEE XLI. 

GRAPE CULTURE NEAR CHATTANOOGA, TENN. 
{From the Chattanooga Times.) 

It will be, perhaps, a little surprising to some when 
the real status and future of grape-growing in this sec- 
tion is known. We have taken some pains to investi- 
gate this matter, and although our figures may not be 
precisely right, they are still approximately correct. 

There are now 150 acres of land around Chattanooga 
within a radius of five miles, entirely devoted to grape- 
culture. All of this is now m bearing, but the next sea- 
son tlie prospect is that much more of this land will 
be put into grape cultivation. Seventy acres are owned 
by btanley & Eickey, the rest is owned by parties in 
small lots. This year the grapes, as a general rule, are 
much finer than usual, but there will be only about 
half a crop, caused by the unusual cold spring. In the 
last si., years there has been no failure at all in the 
crop, and all but one were fair. The crop this season 
will amount to about 200,000 pounds. An acre, when 
trellised well, will, on an average, yield about 4,000 
pounds, and where there are only poles, about 2,000 
pounds. The average price m the Northern market the 
year around is about ten cents ; therefore, this year's 
grape crop will bring about $20,000 in this section. 
At present the high express rates and frequent trans- 



AKD WIKE MAKIKG. 183 

fers reduce the net amount received by the growers to 
a small margin, but when the 0. S. R. R. is completed, 
all of this will be obviated, and the profits will be 
tripled or even quadrupled. In view of this there will 
be heavy outlays by all growers this winter, and next 
summer the largest stock ever grown here can be ex- 
pected. The large majority of growers ship to Cincin- 
nati, but Stanley & Rickey send their grapes to Chicago 
alone. In illustration of the quality of the grajies 
grown in this section, we will cite one instance : On 
August 7, Southern Illinois grapes sold in Chicago at 
5 cents per pound, on the same day Chattanooga grapes 
brought 10 cents. 

The shipment from this point sometimes is very large ; 
Stanley & Rickey have been known to ship in one day 
as high as 4,000 pounds. They employ, at times, as 
high as thirty men in their vineyard. A small portion 
gather the crops, a larger number are busily employed 
carefully assorting and picking. , In a shipment no 
over-ripe or rotten grape can remain in a cluster, or the 
whole lot will be spoiled. The largest and finest clus- 
ters raised this season have been by the Steele Bros., 
who ship to Cincinnati. 

In the construction of stands great care must be 
taken. Sassafras leaves are strewed over the bottom of 
the drawer, then the grapes are packed very tightly, 
when they are covered with another layer of leaves, 
and are thereby kept in a thoroughly fresh condition. 

Almost all our grapes are raised on Missionary Ridge. 
Nearly every cultivated field between Rossville and the 
East Tennessee, Virginia, and Georgia Railroad tunnel 
has a vineyard of some size. This country, with its 
numerous hills, is specially adapted to the culture of 
grapes, and after rates reasonably profitable to the 
grower can be obtained on the railroads, this section 
will become one of the most important grape-growing 



184 AMEKICAK GEAPE GROWING 

localities in the country. It is a lucrative and pleasant 
investment, and from present appearances we may ex- 
claim before long, with perfect justice^ of the *^ vine 
clad hills " of Hamilton County. 



CHAPTER XLII. 

WHITE ELK VINEYARDS, IOWA. 
{From the American Wine and Or ape Grower for Nov., 1879.) 

These vineyards are situated on the west bank of the 
Mississippi river, in the south-east corner of the State 
of Iowa, and in and near the city of Keokuk. The 
wines made there are chiefly Catawba, Concord, Ives, 
Norton's Virginia, Delaware, Clinton, lona, and Alvey, 
and have some reputation in the East, but are better 
known in the West and South. They are remarkable 
for the reason that they are the pure juice of the 
grapes whose names they bear, being neither mingled 
nor doctored, and are brought to maturity by the Pas- 
teur method, which gives the wines the advantage of a 
year or more in ripening them for market. 

The vineyards were established some ten or twelve 
years ago by the Hon. Hiram Barney, of New York, for- 
merly Collector under President Lincoln, and now em- 
brace a little less than 100 acres in vines. The vintage 
product is from 15,000 to 30,000 gallons, and is increas- 
ing annually. Mr. Barney, in order to secure the future 
permanence of the vineyards after he has passed away, 
has recently transferred their ownership to a corpora- 
tion known as the ^' White Elk Vineyard Company," 



AND WIKE MAKING. 185 

in wliicli he is the principal stockholder, with capital 
stock fixed at 150,000 (although they have cost over 
$100,000). 

The officers are : Hon. John H. Craig, President ; 
Gen. Louis T. Barney, Yice-President ; and Hon. Ed- 
ward Jaeger, Secretary and Treasurer. The Directors 
are, in addition to the above : Mr. Hambden Buel and 
Hon. Hiram Barney. 

The wealth and position of these gentlemen, in ad- 
dition to the good repute in which the wines are al- 
ready held, ought to, and no doubt will, insure the 
company the desired measure of success. 

The origin of the name "White Elk" was somewhat 
romantic and is as follows : In 1841, Mr. Barney, then a 
young limb of the law, visited the territory in behalf of 
certain clients who had invested largely in the claims of 
the half-breeds of the Sac and Fox tribes of Indians, then 
residing on the reservations of that name in the southern 
part of the territory, having about that time obtained a 
decree of the court settling the title. Late in the month 
of October, he, with a party of friends and an interpreter, 
started across the country in carriages and on horseback to 
the Indian encampment, some 100 miles beyond the lines 
of civilized habitations ; arriving there they were received 
with great ceremony, and treated with kingly hospitality 
by Keokuk the then King of the united Sac and Fox 
tribes, and also by all the lesser chiefs, in imitation of the 
head one. Mr. Barney and his party remained two or three 
days and then prepared to return to their homes beyond 
the Mississippi, but before doing so Mr. Barney thought it 
worth his while for certain reasons to be adopted into the 
tribe, and sought Keokuk for the purpose of having the 
ceremony performed, but not finding him at the moment 
concluded to take his departure as he came, a simple white 
man. But the fates had ordered otherwise, for they had 
proceeded scarcely a mile on their journey before they were 



186 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIKG 

intercepted by Na-She-Kus-Kuk, Chief of the Sac tribe, 
with fifty mounted Indians, in full war paint and feathers, 
all charging at full speed. The young chief, who was a 
magnificent specimen of the red man, standing 6 feet, rode 
up and made known the fact that he had been sent by 
Keokuk to perform the ceremony of adoption for his 
brother the pale face. Mr. Barney having expressed his 
willingness, Na-She-Kus-Kuk raising his arm gracefully, 
slowly, and with emphasis, pronounced the words Wa-Be- 
Me-Shi-Wa, or White Elk, which was the tribal name 
given to Mr. Barney ; all the Indians composing the caval- 
cade, and a multitude of women and children who had by 
this time gathered around, took up the word and shouted 
it over and over again, while the horsemen wheeled and 
disappeared as quickly as they came. And thus Mr. 
Barney became the Sac Chief, '' White Elk," which name 
he bestowed upon his vineyards as a memorial of this 
singular event. 



CHAPTER XLIII. 

THE PHYLLOXERA PROBLEM. 

(From the Pacific Sural Press.) 

Julius Dresel, of Sonoma, Cal., writes to the Alt a con- 
cerning the danger of the Phylloxera, and what he is do- 
ing to guard against it, as follows : Something must be 
done soon, or shall we continue calmly to stand by and ^ 
see the vineyards, in the neighborhood of Sonoma for in- 
stance, in increasing proportions steadily changing into 
dead land ? In vain I look around, and nowhere can I 
see any serious steps taken to remedy the fearful evil that 
is upon us. But how can we afford to remain inac- 
tive for another season ! Forsooth, then, we had better 



AND WINE MAKING. 187 

prepare ourselves at once to see the 100^000 vines 
already destroyed, amount to millions. Allow me, 
therefore, to give you here, my experience and my 
opinion as to the best means to reconquer the lost 
ground ; for as to averting the destroyer, I think we 
had better dispense with the application of any chem- 
ical preventive. The great prize offered by France for 
such an invention has not yet been won ; and even if 
it had been, how could we employ, and perhajDS more 
than once, a chemical preparation on stretches of 100 
acres, to a depth of 4 feet ? And where is the 
money to come from ? And neither is there any re- 
liance to be put on the power of resistance of the 
younger vines, or on the richness of the soil. My own 
eyes witnessed the Phylloxera crawling on its victims 
entirely regardless of individual, young or old, luxuri- 
ous or lean : all Asiatic varieties of the Vitis vinifera, 
that is to say, every grapevine imported from Europe, 
has to succumb to the relentless double sting of these 
myriads of lice — the roots rot ! No more is manuring, 
how much soever to be recommended in other respects, 
a preservative against the inroads of these insects. As 
the rings grow wider and wider from the spot where 
the stone has fallen into the water, be it deep or shal- 
low, so the circle of devastation of the Phylloxera ex- 
pands from the first point of infection toward the out- 
skirts over rich and poor land, with scarcely any differ- 
ence ; the strong and the weak have to perish alike. 
In three years the work is done. In the first you will 
not remark much, excepting perhaps a fading of color 
on the leaves ; in the second, you see the branches no 
longer hanging down in sweeping boughs, but standing 
upright, shortened and stiff, with a yellow foliage early 
in fall ; in the third, their appearance is entirely crip- 
pled and shorn ; they look like old willow stumps, and 
the horses have to tear them out to be burned. 



188 AMEEICAi^r GEAPE GKOWIi^G 

Under these circumstances, I followed the precedent 
of the French, who, for sometime, have made experi- 
ments with, and ordered Phylloxera-proof vines from 
Missouri in still increasing quantities. I planted Elvira 
and Taylor, both white varieties of the riparia grape, 
and cordifolia, a wild, red variety of the same family, 
which has obtained the preference up to this time. 
Previously I grafted the cuttings indiscriminately with 
Gutedel, Riessling, Zinfindel, etc., and I see them grow 
with their grafts just as well as ours ; also those that 
were transferred to the nursery, there to form roots for 
the next season. Further my own experience does not 
go, but I put entire confidence in this way to help us 
out of the scratch, supported as I am not only by the 
success of the French, as stated in the highly interest- 
ing articles of Wetmore, which appeared in the Alta, 
but also by the microscopic examinations of F. Hecker 
of Belleville, who found the fibre of the varieties of the 
Frost G-rape and the riparia so hard and tough that the 
tiny trunk of the Phylloxera can not well penetrate it. 
Catawba, Isabella, and many other varieties formerly in 
use, have been relinquished as not reliable in the same 
degree, or for other objections. 

Here, then, we have a sufficient reason to make use 
of the above given sorts, as resisting the inroads of the 
Phylloxera, to make up for losses with new plantations. 

I cannot help wondering at those who still continue 
to trust the Asiatic vines, even for new extensions, 
when they stand surrounded by the irrepressible hosts 
of their arch-enemies. No doubt they believe that 
something fortunate will yet turn up against the Phyl- 
loxera. Let us rather be watchful and active — all who 
are weary and burdened with vineyards — lest we may 
fall under an impending mortgage forecksuro. 

My mode of proceeding is this : I put an exactly- 
fitting graft of two eyes on the cuttings, having them 



AND WINE MAKING. 189 

first shortened for the uppermost knot, and winding 
around it, all along the graft-cut, a suitable twine. 
I have not used any wax, which, perhaps, might do 
well as a coating. For the manner of grafting, every 
one may choose the cut he likes best, and thinks suited 
to answer the purpose. Good care should be taken to 
prevent the cuttings from getting dry, by keeping them 
covered with moist soil ; sand would be preferable. In 
this wise one can finish about 175 grafts in a day, sit- 
ting snugly at home ; some years later, grafting on the 
stem may cost three times as much work. I leave it 
to the judgment of my fellow vine-growers, whether 
they would not rather plant the Missouri vines first in 
the nursery, there to take root, and graft afterward, 
before transferring to the vineyard. If orders are given 
during October, the vines will probably be sent in 
January, and the planting should be done in March at 
the latest. Do not expect to get as vigorous and 
many-eyed cuttings as we are wont to get here ; most 
of the slips are thin and long-lmked, but they grow all 
the same. About the stems which these Missouri vines 
will make, I cannot speak from experience, but I have 
not heard any complaints from France ; besides, I am 
inclined to assume that our genial climate will improve 
their strength, as it did for the Gutedel, and others. 



190 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

EGG HARBOR WINES— EARLY WINTER GRAPE— COST OF A 
VINEYARD. 

EGG HARBOR WINES. 

The following is extracted from an account in tlie 
" American Wme and Grape Grower/' November, 1879/ 
of a visit to Egg Harbor, N. J. With a view to make 
their wines better known, the owners of the leading vine- 
yards, at Egg Harbor, some 3^ears ago inaugurated an 
annual reception, to which prominent citizens of Phila- 
delphia and others are invited. On this occasion 

'^ The representative wine-growers who were visited 
spared no pains to throw open every source of informa- 
tion and provide all possible means of comfort and plea- 
sure for the visitors. After j)assing upon the well-known 
merits of the white ^ Martha ' and red wines of J. Ful- 
ler, the party visited Heil's vineyards, where similar 
wines were tested. Capt. Saal man's favorite, * Black 
Rose,' next underwent the trial of the connoisseurs, and 
the party then visited the leading wine-grower of the 
place, Julius Hincke, prominent as the man who placed 
his celebrated ' lohlink ' and ' Franklin ' wines in com- 
petion with those of France and the rest of the world at 
the Paris Exhibition. These wines took a medal there, 
as they had previously done at the Centennial. 

'' After an address of welcome by Mr. Hincke, ex-Presi- 
dent Lucas took occasion to express his gratification over 
the fact that these wines met with high favor, not only 
in New York and the other principal cities of America, 
but also in England and on the European continent. 
They were superior, he said, to Burgundy wine, and had 
already raised New Jersey to a place among the leading 



AND WINE MAKING. 191 

wine-growing districts of the world. Count D'Assi coin- 
cided with Mr. Lucas, and said he was forced to admit 
that tlie wine-growing lands along the Camden and At- 
lantic Railroad were a successful rival even of the soil 
from which had come the Falerian that Horace had im- 
mortalized. Equally favorable comments were made by 
a number of gentlemen at the Claret and Catawba vaults 
of T. H. Bannihr." 



NOTE ON THE EARLY VICTOR GRAPE. 
BY SAM. MILLER, BLUTFTON, MO. 

This grape, grown from seed by John Burr, of Leaven- 
worth, Kansas, is certainly the best of the early grapes 
that have yet come to my notice. Bunch medium to 
large ; berry size of Isabella, and has the same oblong 
form, black, with a handsome bloom ; pulp soft and 
sweet, as well as rich, skin thin. It is entirely free from 
the foxiness of its parent, the Concord. The vine Vf3 
vigorous, foliage healthy, and immensely productivv3. 
He has sent me the fruit three years in succession, and it 
has improved every year. The past season it bore here 
with me, and was quite a prize. It ripens about a week 
earlier than Hartford, and will not only rank high as a 
table grape, but will also make an excellent wine, if my 
judgment is worth anything. Mr. B. has also a white 
variety, fruit of which he sent me, which is quite early, 
and will give the Lady a hard race, as it is entirely free 
from foxiness. 



COST OP ESTABLISHING A VINEYARD. 

This must, of course, vary greatly with the locality, 
price of labor, manner of preparing the soil, variety 
planted, manner of training, etc. I give below the cost 
of an acre in our locality, (Boone Co., Mo.) on ordinary 



192 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIl^G 

soil, and with no unusual obstructions, such as stones, 
stumps, etc. : 

Plowino- and sub-soiling, three teams $ 7 00 

650 Elvira (or Goethe) piants, $5 per 100 32 50 

Plantiu2: 5 00 

Ciil tivatinff 2 vears 30 00 

30J Trellis Posts, 8 cts 24 00 

500 lbs. No. 12 Wire, 7 cts. per lb 35 00 

Setting Posts and stretching wire 5 00 

Total '. $138 50 

The cost will vary Avith the varieties. — If Concord are 
taken, they can be had for 11.50 per 100 ; Norton's Vir- 
ginia or Oynthiana will cost from 18 to $15 per 100. 
Thus, the cost may vary from 1120 to 1200 per acre. 

The above is for a trellis of three wires ; .for tw^o it will 
be about 111 to 112 less. The distance is for vines set 
6 X 10 or 8 X 8, with a row in the center left out for a road. 

The returns will vary so much with the locality, and 
with the season, that it would be useless to sjoeculate upon 
them here. Every planter can form his own estimate. 
It will depend upon the price that can be obtained for the 
grapes or the wine, and many other circumstances which 
cannot be foreseen m a work like this, which is merely 
intented to give an outline of the necessary operations. 



I have aimed to gather facts from different sections of 
the country, from eminent grape-growers, and include 
them in this little book. It will illustrate the different 
metliods and views in different sections, together with 
some observations made on a recent Eastern trip, and I 
trust that this Second Part will not be the least interest- 
ing portion of the work. To all who have thus con- 
tributed I tender my grateful acknowledgments, as well 
as for the many courtesies and friendly greetings I 
received from brother grape-growers, which made me 
feel again and again that there is a free-masonry among 
members of our profession, which makes us feel at home 
wherever we clasp the hand of a follower of our gentle craft. 



PART III. 



AMERICAN WINE MAKING. 



(193) 



CHAPTER XLV, 

WINE MAKING. 

It can hardly be expected, in a book which, only aims 
to be the guide of the average cultivator, and to render 
grape growing and wine making easy for the masses, that 
I should enter into the secrets of the wine dealer and 
chemist, giving elaborate descriptions of the manufacture 
of sparkling wmes, and the artificial compounds of the 
so-called sweet wines, vins de liqueur, etc. My chief 
aim is to demonstrate in a simple and plain manner, the 
rules which are necessary to success. Wine making is a 
very simple art, which every one with sound common 
sense may acquire, yet it can not be followed successfully 
without a strict observance of these rules. I shall be as 
concise as possible, and hope that this little volume may 
enable every one, who wishes to do so, to make healthful 
and palatable wine for his own use, and at the same time 
to assist the owner of ten or twenty acres of vineyard to 
convert the products of it into a salable article of 
commerce. 

THE CELLAK. 

Before making wine, room should be provided to keep 
it. If you want to make only a small quantity for your 
own use, and have a common house-cellar, it will answer 
the purpose, although not likely to be cool enough in 
summer. The main consideration is to always have 
the wine thoroughly fermented and finished during 
(195) 



196 AMEEICAN^ GRAPE GROWING 

the first winter. If this is the case, it will keep even in a 
temperature of 65°, though 45° would be better. But if 
one wishes to take up wine making as a business^ and 
manufacture several thousand gallons, a special building 
for the purpose is necessary. 

A steep hillside, sloping towards the north, is the 
most suitable locality, and the most economical and 
most convenient building is one of three stories, The 
lower one, for keeping the wine when finished, should be 
completely underground, the second story, intended for 
the fermenting cellar, partially so, at least, and the third, 
intended for the press house, can be entirely above ground, 
so that the grapes can be conveniently carried into it. 
The lower story should be well walled and, if possible, 
arched with stone, though this is not indispensable. If 
arched, it should be about 18 feet wide by 12 feet high 
from the floor to the middle of the arch, so that there is 
room for casks 5 feet long in two rows, one on each side, 
space enough between the casks and the wall to pass be- 
hind them, and a passage of 5 to 6 feet in the center, to 
allow space for drawing off wine, moving casks, etc. 
The length can be suited to the wants of the builder ; the 
entrance should, if possible, be even with the ground, 
and if built into the hillside, it can easily be made so, 
and the back part of the cellar slightly elevated, so that 
it will drain towards the door. It is best to have a room 
in front, so as to keep out the cold air ; this can be 
used for storing empty casks, cellar utensils, etc. The 
cellar should be well ventilated on the sides by air flues 
built in the wall, and constructed somewhat like chim- 
neys, commencing at the bottom and terminating above 
the arch. These are to be closed by a grate and trap 
door, so that they can be opened at will, to admit air and 
light. The cellar is to be closed by strong double doors. 
Place on each side two rows of beams, lengthwise, as 
layers for the casks, one to be about 2 feet from the wall, 



AKD WliCE MAKIN^G. 197 

the other ^ /\ feet. It will be best if the floor is paved 
with brick or flags. 

The second story of the building is intended for the 
fermenting cellar, and may be made either of stone, which 
is certainly the most durable, or of wood, if cheaper and 
more convenient ; it need not be arched. It should be, 
at least, 9 feet high, and partly under ground, with its 
entrance from the rear, as this will be more convenient. 
There ought to be holes through the arch of the lower 
cellar, large enough to admit the passage of a hose, by 
which the wine can be racked from the casks in the 
upper cellar into the casks below. This room need not 
be arched, but should be so constructed that it is free 
from frost, and can be heated by a stove, if necessary, to 
regulate the temperature while the njnst is fermenting. 
Place layers, or beams, to receive the casks, on both 
sides, as in the lower cellar. 

The third story is above the ground, and is calculated for 
the press room, with the entrance from the back, and is 
intended to contain the wine press, grape mill, and fer- 
menting vats, together with all the necessary implements 
for wine making. The whole is to be covered with a good 
roof, and there should be a large cistern, to receive all the 
water from it, and as convenient to the press room as 
possible, so that the water can be drawn into the room by 
a force pump. If the press room is so arranged as to be 
heated by a stove, it will be found convenient in winter 
as a shop in which to prepare cuttings, etc. 

To sum up, there should be : 1st. A cellar to keep the 
fermented wine altogether below ground, so that it will 
remain at as even a temperature as possible. 2nd. A fer- 
menting cellar, or good, air tight room, which need not 
necessarily be below ground, if it can be kept free from 
frost until about December loth, to put the must through 
a rapid and thorough fermentation. 3d. A press room for 
receiving and washing the grapes, and, when necessary, 



198 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

passing them tliroiigli alight fermentation before pressing, 
with sufficient room for all the implements. 4th. Plenty 
of good cistern water for all jonrposes. All the stories, for 
greater convenience in worJiing, to be connected by hose. 
As observed before, any one can make and keep a small 
quantity of wine for home use, even without a regular 
wine cellar. One of the most successful wine makers I 
ever knew, and who afterwards made it by tens of thou- 
sands of gallons, stored his first crop in a hole in the 
ground, 8 feet deep, and planked inside, with a board 
roof ; in this he placed his casks, and covered the whole 
with earth. But for the cultivator who would make 
grape growing and wine making his business, a separate 
wine cellar will become absolutely, necessary, and should 
be built as soon as possible. The expense will be accord- 
ing to the dimensions ; a building 30 by 18 feet would 
cost here now about 11,500, and have a capacity of 5,000 
gallons in the lower cellar, provided casks of not less than 
500 gallons are used. 

CELLAR FURNITURE. 

We now come to the utensils necessary for wine mak- 
ing. You need : 

1st. A Press. — The most convenient one for a medium- 
sized establishment, to press say not over 5,0U0 gallons 
per annum, I have found to be one made at Belleville, 
111. It is compact, takes little space, and it has a false 
bottom, which can be easily taken off and cleaned. 
The hopper is in the shape of a double-grooved ring, so 
that the juice can flow off towards the middle, the out- 
side, and the bottom ; it does the work quickly and well. 
A strong iron screw is in the middle, and is worked by 
a lever on top. It costs about 135 to 140. It is dura- 
ble, easily cleaned, and takes little space. A small 
quantity of grapes can, of course, be pressed with any 



AND WIKE MAKING. 199 

kind of a cider press. One will press about a barrel at 
a time, and twenty barrels can be worked off in a day. 

2nd. The Mill. — :For mashing grapes, a simple pair 
of wooden rollers, connected by cog wheels, and running 
against each other, so arranged that they can be set by 
screws to any desired distance apart, will do the work 
better than anything else, and a boy of ten years can turn 
them. The rollers are in a frame which can be set over 
the vat ; a hopper on top to receive the grapes, completes 
the arrangement. The rollers can be either plain or 
grooved, as desired, and the whole will cost from $12 to $15. 
Small quantities may be mashed with a wooden pestle in 
a tub. The rollers should be so set as to break the skins 
of the berries, but not to crush the seeds or stems. 

3d. Fermenting Vats. — These are best made of pop- 
lar wood, and may be of any suitable size, with a capacity 
of from 100 to 500 gallons. For a larger establishment 
I would prefer them about 5 feet diameter by 5 feet high, 
and somewhat narrower at the top than at bottom. They 
should be well hooped and strong, made of I'/^-inch lum- 
ber, and worked smoothly inside, so that they can be 
easily cleaned, with a spigot hole near the botton to draw 
off the must. Their probable cost is about five to six 
cents per gallon. 

4th. Casks. — These are wanted, of course, of all di- 
mensions. Large casks save room, and are proportionally 
cheaper ; fermentation progresses rapidly in them, but it 
takes longer for the wine to fine and clear after fermen- 
tation is over, than in small casks. They should be of 
good, well seasoned white oak wood ; if steamed before 
using, so that the tannin is drawn out, so much the 
better. Larger casks should also have a so-called ^ '^man- 
hole," so that a man or boy can slip in and thoroughly 
clean them when used. I do not advise larger casks than 
500 gallons, as it takes too long to fill them, and they are. 



200 



AMERICAN GEAPE GROWING 



therefore, unhandy, except for very large establishments. 

These are about 5 feet long by 5 feet diameter, and should 

be placed on strong beams 
in the cellar, about 18 inch- 
es above the floor and 15 to 
18 inches from the wall, so 
as to enable you to examine 
them at any time and clean 
them of mould or cobwebs. 
Their cost at present is 
about 7 cents per gallon. 
Imported Rhenish wine 
casks, holding from 80 to 




Fig. 38. — WOODEN FUNNEL. 



160 gallons each, are also very good if they have not been 
allowed to sour or become mouldy, but, of course, they 
take up more room in proportion than 
do large casks. 

5th. A Strong Wooden Funnel. — 
This is oblong, with a copper pipe in 
the bottom, and has two short wooden 
legs, so that it will set firmly on the 
cask. Any good cooper can make one. 
See figure 28. 

6th. Tubs to be Used in Pressing. 
— Any good pine or cedar tubs will do 
for the purpose. Also clean tin or 
wooden pails should be provided in 
abundance. 

7th. A Saccharometer or Must 
Scale. — This is important and you 
can not do without, as they are the 
only sure guides as to quality of the 
must, and you can not make wine ra- 
tionally or with certainty of success, 
unless you know what amount of sugar and acid the 
must contains. Oechsle's is the one most commonly 




AND WINE MAKING. 



201 



used, and can be had in any oijtical establisliment. They 
are made of glass, platina, or silver, at prices ranging 
from 13 to $10. 

Figure 29 shows must scale (silver) and test tube, AVith 
the scale you should also have a long glass, or tin tube 
made for the purpose of holding the must while testing it. 

An Acidimeter.— -The one invented and patented by 
Henry Twitchell is simple, and can be used with accuracy 




Fig. 30.— ACIDIMETER. 

\ 

by beginners. It is a timely invention, as it took long 
practice to work correctly with either Otto's or Geissler's. 
It is accompanied with full directions for its use. Fig- 
ure cO gives an illustration of the Acidimeter. 



202 AMEBIC AK GRAPE GrtOWi:N"a 

GATHERING THE GRAPES. 

Having our cellar built, and stocked with tlie necessary 
implements, we can now proceed to gather the grapes. 
The proper time to do this dej^ends very much upon 
the varietico. The cestivalis, and most of the cordifolia 
class, in short, all grapes which have an agreeable flavor — ■ 
one which we wish to have in its fullest development in 
the must or wine — we ought to have thoroughly ripe. 
The riper the grapes, the more fully Avill their peculiar 
flavor be developed, the le33 acid and the more sugar will 
they contani. We must, therefore, learn the nature of 
our grapes before we know when to gather them. In the va- 
rieties of Lotbrusca, at least in most of them, their peculiar 
flavor IS not desirable nl its highest development, and is 
generally characterized as "foxy." A good many of 
them also, for instance. Concord and Martha, do not 
contain the i3rop3r amount of acid when fully ri23e, to 
bear the necessary dilution of this strong, foxy taste, and 
as they must be "Gallized" at any rate, to be palatable, it 
is not advisable to let them get over ripe. I would advise, 
therefore, to take these, and, in short, all the varieties 
with a strong, foxy, and disagreeable aroma, when fully 
colored, and let those varieties with an agreeable aroma 
hang long, in order to obtain their flavor in its full 
perfection and delicacy ; and also to develop the greatest 
amount of sugar and diminish the acid. The best evi- 
dences of a grape being thoroughly ripe are ; 1st. The 
stem turns brown and begins to shrivel. 2d. The berry 
begins to shrivel around the stem. 3d. The skin is thin 
and transparent. 4th. The juice becomes very^sweet, 
and adheres to the fingers like honey or molasses. 

It is often advisable to gather twice, as many bunches will 
ripen later than others. If the ripest are gathered first, the 
remainder will ripen quicker, and a uniform product can 
thus be obtained. The first implements needed for the 



AND Wli^E MAKIiN'G. 



203 



gathering are clean wooden or tin pails, and sharp knives, 
or better still, the small shears spoken of in a former 
part of this work. Each gatherer is provided with a pail, 
or two may go together, having a pail each, so that one 
can empty and the other keep filling. If there are a good 
many nnripe berries on the bnnches, these may be put 
into a separate pail, and also all that are soft, as they 
will make an inferior wine. The bunch is cut with as 
short a stem as possible, as the 
stems contain a great deal of 
acid and tannin ; every unripe, 
dry, or decayed berry is to be 
picked out, so that none but per- 
fectly sound, ripe berries remain. 
We also need a carrying vat, 
to carry the grapes to the mill 
or wagon, if the vineyard is any 
distance from the cellar. This 
is made of half-inch pine lum- 
ber 3 feet high, 10 inches wide 
at bottom, 20 inches at top, 
being flat on one side, where it 
comes against the back ; it is 
bound with thin iron hoops. It 
is carried by two leather straps 
running over the shoulders, as shown in figure 31, and 
will contain about 8 or 10 pails, or 2 to '^'^ / ^ bushels 
of grapes. The carrier can easily take it through the 
, rows and lean it against a post until filled, and then carry 
■ the grapes directly to the press room, if close by^ if too 
far, i:)lace tubs or vats on the wagon, into which the 
grapes may be emptied. The utmost cleanliness sliould 
be observed in all the apparatus, and no tub, vat, or pail 
should be used which is in the least mouldy, as the must 
will at once acquire any foreign taste. Everything should 
be perfectly clean and sweet, and a strict supervision 




Fig. 31.— CARRTING VAT. 



204 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIKG 

kept up, that the laborers do not drop crumbs of bread, 
etc., among the grapes, as these will cause acetous fermen- 
tation. The weather should be dry and fair, and the 
grapes dry when gathered. 

MAKING THE WINE. 

The apparatus being all ready, we can commence opera- 
tions, and here we must know, first and foremost, what 
kind of wine we intend to make, whether light-colored 
and smooth, or dark-colored and astringent. The char- 
acter of the wine depends chiefly on its fermentation on 
the husks, although of course we cannot make an entirely 
white wine out of a grape with very dark juice, nor a red 
wine, except by artificial coloring, out of a white grape, 
or one with yery light-colored juice. The general rule 
is, however, xhat fermentation draws acid, tannin, color, 
and flavor out of the skins and stems, so that if we desire 
to develop the greatest amount of these, we must let the 
must remain longer on the husks ; if, on the contrary, 
we desire a mild, smooth wine, it should not ferment long 
on the husks. Many of the red wines of Europe are left 
on the husks for several months, and the wine is drawn 
from them when it is about finished. 

To make white, or light-colored, smooth wine, the 
grapes which were gathered and mashed during the day 
can be pressed and put into the cask during the following 
night. The mill is placed above the fermenting vat, 
and the grapes are mashed as soon as they are carried in, 
or hauled to the press house. The vat is covered with a 
cloth during the day. If the season has been good, and 
you have a perfect grape to deal with, such a one as has 
all the ingredients of a good wine in the proper propor- 
tions, it will make good wme without any other addition. 
If not, sugar, or sugar and water, must be added, but I 
will speak of this in a separate chapter. With the Con- 
cord grape, many make both a white and a red wine. The 



AND WIKE MAKING. 205 

white is made by simply pressing very liglitly as soon as 
the grapes are mashed, so as to drain off the first run of 
the juice before it has acquired any color from the skins. 
T::e husks are then thrown into the fermenting vat, 
water and sugar added, and fermented several days ; then 
pressed, and thus a red wine is produced. I must say that 
I prefer the wine gained by fermenting, say 24 hours, 
in a temperature of 65° to 80° on the husks, and all 
pressed together. It generally contains all the ingredi- 
ents in better proportions, while the white wine seldom 
has the due proportion of acid and tannin, and the red 
generally has an excess of acid, tannin, and flavor. Of 
course the temperature has a great influence on fermen- 
tation, as in warm weather it progresses much more 
rapidly, and the pressing should be done sooner than in 
cool weather. It is entirely optional with the wine-mak- 
er what kind of wine he produces ; he can make it to suit 
himself, and soon learns how to do it. The longer he 
ferments his must, the more astringent and rough his 
wine will be ; and the sooner and lighter he presses, the 
less character will the wine acquire, though it will be 
much more delicate and smooth. 

Before filling the casks they should be well prepared. 
They should be perfectly clean and sweet without the 
slightest mouldiness. If new, they should be steamed, or 
filled with pure water, and allowed to soak for several 
days, then emptied, and scalded with two or three gallons 
of boiling wine. This quantity is for a cask of say 500 
gallons. Or, if this is not convenient, put in, say a peck 
of unslaked lime, and about five gallons of water,, then 
put in the bung and turn the cask about, so that all parts 
of it are touched by the mixture. Then pour out the 
lime water, and wash with water, then rinse with a de- 
coction of vine leaves, or warm wine, or better still, pour 
in a pint of pure alcohol or grape brandy, and light 
it by a match. The fumes of the burning brandy 



206 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

will penetrate tlie wood, and make you secure against 
any taint in the wine. But do not bung the cask 
while the brandy is burning, or you may have an ex- 
plosion before you know it. The same may be done 
with mouldy casks, to make them fresh and service- 
able again. 

The casks can then be filled with the must, either 
completely, if it is intended that the must should fer- 
ment above, as it is called, or under, when the cask is 
not completely filled, so that the husks, , scums, etc., 
which the must will throw to the surface during fer- 
mentation, will remain in the cask. Both methods 
have their advantages, but after long practice, I now 
follow the latter, leaving empty space enough until rapid 
fermentation is over, so that all remains in the cask. As 
long as fermentation lasts, and the gas escapes, all goes 
right, and a few vine leaves over the bung-hole, on whicii 
a small sack of sand is laid, are sufficient to close it. Of 
course it must be closely watched, and the bung closed 
as soon as fermentation ceases, when the casks must be 
filled with wine kept for that purpose in a separate 
cask. If, during fermentation, cool weather should set m, 
and the temperature fall below 60°, the fermenting cel- 
lar should be warmed by a stove. But this will rarely 
be the case, as the vintage should be over before cold 
weather sets in. 

When violent fermentation has ceased, and the must 
has become quiet, the cask should be closed with a tight 
bung of white oak or poplar wood. To make dark-red 
wine, the treatment differs, as it is the object, as before 
remarked, to get a wine of the darkest color, highest 
flavor, and of a certain astringency, which it will only 
attain by fermenting on the husks. The must is, in that 
case, allowed to ferment on the husks for from three to 
six days, when the husks which rise to the surface should 
often be pressed down and stirred through the must, to 



AND WINE MAKING. 207 

prevent their souring. The must is then drawn off below, 
by a faucet, and the husks pressed. If it is desired to make 
only a dark-colored wine, without so much astringency, 
and of great body, the grapes are allowed to hang until 
they are very ripe, even shrivelled ; and stemmed, as the 
stems contain a large amount of acid and tannin, and 
give the wine a rough and bitter taste. In this manner 
the celebrated red wines of Burgundy, and the best 
brands of France and Germany, are made. Many of them 
are even allowed to go through the whole process of fer- 
mentation before pressing, and the husks are filled into 
the cask with the must, through a door above, and remain 
there until the clear wine is drawn, off. This is gener- 
ally not desirable here, however, as our red grapes con- 
tain sufficient astringency and color without this process. 
After the wine has become quiet it is looked after fre- 
quently, and the casks filled to the bung. As there 
is more or less evaporation, this should be done every two 
or three weeks, always using wine of the same or similar 
character. In two to three months the wine ought to be 
clear and bright, and should then be racked, i. e., drawn 
from the lees by means of a faucet, and put into clean, 
sweet casks. It is very important here, again, that the 
casks into which it is drawn, are sweet and clean, or 
" wine green." For must, fresh brandy or whiskey casks 
may be used ; but after the v/ine has fermented, it will 
not do to use such, as the wine acquires the smell and 
taste of the liquor. When a cask has been emptied, it 
should be carefully cleaned, as before described, by en- 
tering at the door or man-hole, or, with smaller casks, by 
taking out the head, as the lees are very adhesive, and 
will not wash out readily, but should be brushed off. 
After it is thoroughly cleansed it may be fumigated 
slightly, by burning a small piece of sulphured paper, or 
a nutmeg in it, and then filled. To keep empty casks in 
good condition, they should, after cleaning, be allowed 



208 AMERICAN" GRAPE GROWING 

to become thoroughly dry, when they are sulphured, 
closed tightly, and laid away in the cellar. The sulphur- 
ing should be repeated every six weeks. When wanted 
for use, they are rinsed with cold water. 

For racking the wine we should have : 1st. A large, 
brass or wooden faucet. 2d. Pails of a peculiar shape, 
narrow at the top, to prevent wastage. 3d. A wooden 
funnel, as described before, to hold about six gallons. 

In racking, first loosen the bung of the cask. Then, 
after loosening the wooden peg, and closing the tap hole, 
let your assistant hold the pail opposite the hole. You 
hold the faucet with your right hand, and with the left 
withdraw the plug, inserting the faucet quickly ; drive it 
in firmly and you are ready for the work. 

Do not fully open the faucet at first, because the first 
pailful is generally not quite clear, and should run 
slowly. This, and the last from the lees, are generally 
put into a cask together, and allowed to settle, when, in 
a few weeks, it will become clear, and make a good wine. 
As soon as the wine runs clear and limpid, it can be put 
into the cask, and you can let it run as fast as the faucet 
will allow, opening it to its fullest capacity. When the 
wine has run off down to the tap hole, the cask may be 
carefully raised at the other end, one inserting a piece of 
board or a brick under it, while the other lifts slowly and 
gently. This may be repeated several times, as long as 
the wine runs clear, and when it becomes slightly cloudy, 
kee]) the cloudy wine to put with what ran out first. As 
soon as it becomes thick and muddy it is time to stop. 
The door is then taken out of the cask and the lees 
emptied out. They will, if distilled, make a fine flavored 
and strong brandy. If your cellar is built according to 
the plan already given, you can attach a hose to the faucet 
and run your wine from the fermenting cellar into the 
cellar and casks below, which is a great saving of time 
and wastage. The must can also be run from the press- 



AND Wli^E MAKIi^G. 209 

room into the casks in tlie fermenting cellar in the same 
manner. 

We should keej) in mmd, in all operations, the kind of 
wine we intend to make. In white and light-colored 
wines, we desire delicacy of bouquet and smoothness of 
taste ; in red wines for medicinal or stomachic use, we de- 
sire astringency, body, and a decided and characteristic 
flavor. White and light-colored wines should, therefore, 
be racked as soon as they are clear, while red wines may 
remain longer on the lees. Both can be modified, by 
treatment, to meet the peculiar taste ; a red wine may be 
made smoother, and a white wine more astringent, by 
longer or shorter fermentation on the husks and lees. We 
can thus conform to the taste of the consumer. If the 
prevailing taste is for light-colored, smooth and delicate 
wines, we can make them so, by pressing soon, and rack- 
ing soon and frequently. If a dark-colored, astringent 
wine is desired, we can ferment on the husks, and leave 
it on the lees a longer period. There is a medium course 
in this, as in all things, and the intelligent wine-maker 
will soon find the rules which should guide him, and 
with a little practice discover the method which will give 
him the best results with a certain variety. 

Among the varieties suited for white wines, and which 
should be treated as such, I will name the Elvira, Goethe, 
Herbemont, Martha, Massasoit, Uhland, Catawba, Dela- 
ware, and Taylor, and among the varieties for dark-red 
wines, Cynthiana, Norton's Virginia, Lenoir, Alvey, 
Clinton, and Ives' Seedling. The Concord can be used 
for both, or can bo made light-red. For Sherry wine, use 
the Hermann, Rulander, and Cunningham. These latter 
require a sort of medium treatment ; it is desirable to 
develop their peculiar flavor ; it is not desirable to have 
them astringent or dark-colored. Fermenting on the 
husks 24 to 36 hours, in a temperature of 60° to 70°, will 
be about right for them. It is very important that the 



210 AMERICA^^ GRAPE GROWII^G 

temperature should not vary much during fermenta- 
tion, and that the first fermentation on the husks, and 
for tlie first weeli following, should be rapid and unin- 
terrupted. If the wine goes into the next summer fully 
fermented and finished, clear and limpid, there is little 
danger of its becoming cloudy and diseased afterwards, 
even if it must be kept in a changeable temperature. 

AFTER TREATMENT OF THE WINE. 

Even if the wine was perfectly clear when drawn off, 
in February and March, when it should be racked for the 
second time, it will go through a second fermentation, 
however slight this may be, as soon as warm weather 
sets in, say in June and July. The clearer and better 
developed the wine was when last racked, the slighter 
this will be, for only the lees yet remaining in it which 
the young wine has not entirely deposited will act as the 
ferment. It is not safe or judicious, therefore, to bottle 
the wine before this second fermentation is over. As 
soon as the wine has become perfectly quiet and clear 
again, generally about September, it can be bottled, or 
sold by the cask. For bottling wine we need : 1st. 
Clean bottles. 2d. Good corks, which must be scalded 
with hot water first, to draw out all impurities, and 
soften them, and then be soaked in cold water. 3d. A 
small funnel. 4th. A small faucet. 5th. A light, 
wooden mallet to drive in the corks. 

After the faucet has been inserted in the cask, fill your 
bottles so that there will be about an inch of room be- 
tween the cork and the wine. Let them stand a few 
minutes before you drive in the cork, which should be of 
full size, and made to fit by compressing at one end. 
Then drive in the cork with the mallet, and lay the 
bottles, either in sand on the cellar floor, or on a rack 
made for that purpose. They should be so laid that the 
wine covers the cork, to exclude all air. The greater bulk 



AKD WINE MAKING. 211 

of the wine, however, can safely be sold now, or kept in 
casks. All the wine to be kept should be racked once 
about every six months, and the casks kept well filled. 

DISEASES OF WINE AND THEIR REMEDIES. 

Wine properly made, and with all ingredients in right 
proportion, Avill seldom suffer from any disease. Cases 
may arise, however, which may make it necessary to give 
it a different treatment, or fine it by artificial means. 

TREATMENT OF FLAT AND TURBID WINE. 

The cause of flat wine is generally lack of tannin. If the 
wine has a peculiar flat, soft taste, and looks cloudy, this 
is uniformly the case. Draw the wine into another cask, 
which has been well sulphured, and add some pulverized 
tannin, which can be had at any drug store. The tan- 
nin may be dissolved either in water or wine, about an 
ounce to every two hundred gallons of wine, and poured 
in at the bung, after which the wine should be well 
stirred with a stick inserted through the bung-hole. 
Should it not become clear in about three weeks, it must 
be fined. This can be done by adding about an ounce of 
powdered gum arable, or isinglass, to each forty gallons. 
The gum arable will dissolve in cold water, but isinglass 
requires hot water ; stir the wine well when it has been 
poured in. Or take some wine out of the cask, and, for 
each forty gallons of Avine, add the whites of ten eggs, 
whipped to foam with the wine taken out ; pour this 
mixture into the cask, stir well, and bung tightly. 
After a week the wine will generally be clear, and should 
then be drawn off. An easier and speedier method to fine 
is to put it through a filter filled with paper pulp, but 
the apparatus is somewhat costly. As it is accompanied 
by directions for use to those who j)urchase it, it would 
be superfluous to describe it here. As stated before, if 
the wine has been properly made and fermented, such 



212 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIN-G 

procedures will seldom be necessary, and the wine will be 
sound and clear without any artificial means. The ob- 
servant and rational wine-maker will seldom be troubled 
by any mishaps, and his wines will be palatable and 
bright without any such treatment. 

USES OF THE HUSKS AND LEES. 

These can be distilled, and will make a very strong, fine 
flavored brandy. The husks are stamped down into 
empty barrels or vats, as close as possible, with a cover of 
clay made over them, to exclude the air. They will then 
undergo a fermentation and be ready for distilling in 
about a month. They should be taken fresh from the 
press, for if they remain exposed to the air they become 
mouldy. The lees can be distilled immediately. Good 
fresh lees or husks from rather astringent wines or 
grapes, are also an excellent remedy when the wine be- 
comes flat, as described before. If such wine is ferment- 
ed on the husks again for a day or two, it will generally 
become sound and bright. 



AKD WINE MAKING. 21o 



CHAPTER XLVI. 

DR. GALL'S AND PETIOL'S METHODS OF WINE MAKING. 

So far, I have only spoken of the handling of the raw 
product of Nature, taking for granted that we had a fair 
must in good condition to work with. But this un- 
fortunately is rarely the case, and the natural juice of 
the grape seldom contains all the elementary constituents 
of a good wine in the proper proportions. In fact, very 
many of our American varieties are very imperfect even 
in the best seasons, and contain geherally a superabund- 
ance of acid and flavoring matter or aroma. What then 
is the intelligent operator to do ? Shall he use them as 
they are, although he is aware they are imperfect, and 
produce a poor, undrinkable, unsalable, and even un- 
healthful article ? Or shall he, with the reason and 
knowledge God has given him, seek to remedy Nature's 
imperfections, dilute the acid and aroma, add sugar, if 
necessary, and thus make a salable, pleasant, and 
healthful beverage ? I think the intelligent wine-makers 
— and it is only for them I am writing, can not hesitate 
which course to take. 

I am aware that I am treading on dangerous ground, 
that I have been severely censured for my advocacy of 
Dr. Gall in my former little book, but truth remains 
truth, whether assailed or not, and the laws of chemistry 
will not change to please any of the ^' Simon Pure Natur- 
alists," who rail against Gallizing, because they do not 
know anything about its true principles. But let me 
put myself right before my readers, before entering upon 
the details of the operation. I advocate Gallizing only so 



214 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

far as it is the best means of improving otherwise imper- 
fect must, not as an indiscriminate means of increas- 
ing the quantity at the expense of quality. Only so far 
as by the additioi of water and sugar, an imperfect must 
can be made the most perfect, is Gallizing not only justi- 
fiable, but a necessity. As soon as it aims only at in- 
creasing the quantity without regard to quality, it is rep- 
rehensible, and should be frowned down. This may be 
called (jallonizmg, not Gallizing ; and that these gallon- 
izers have done a great deal of mischief by bringing their 
trash before the public, and calling it wine, can not be 
denied. But those who, from a mistaken idea that a 
wine to be good and healthful, must be natural, as they 
call it, have made it as Nature gave it, and have, there- 
fore, disgusted the palates of refined wine connoisseurs by 
their pure, but weak, foxy, and acid Concords, and Ives, 
etc. , thus doing even more to bring American wines into 
discredit than the gallonizers. Both of these, the natural 
wine-makers and the gallonizers, have been the curse and 
bane of our wine markets ; those who, in the inno- 
cent belief that they were tasting fair samples of Ameri- 
can wines, swallowed their compounds and were disgusted, 
and when they met with good productions, were de- 
terred from tasting again. The true course lies in 
the middle, as usual. The wine-maker has certain un- 
erring guides, which teach him, with a little practice 
and experimenting, ^Hhus far shalt thou go, but no 
farther." 

Having thus defined what we intend to do, which is 
simply to improve our must, if deficient, let us, to see 
our way clearly before us, examine as to the consti- 
tuent parts of must or grape juice. A chemical analysis 
of must shows the following result : 

Grape juice contains water, sugar, free acids, tannin, 
gummy and mucous substances or gluten, coloring mat- 
ter, fragrant, or flavoring substances (aroma, bouquet). 



AN^D WII^E MAKII^G. 215 

A good or normal must should contain all these ingredi- 
ents in due proportion. If there is an excess of one, and 
a lack of the other, it can not make a perfect wine. 
This would seem apparent to every reasoning wine maker. 
Must which contains all of these in exactly the right pro- 
portion we call a perfect or normal must ; and only by 
determining the amount of each of the ingredieuts in 
this so-called normal must, can we gain the knowledge 
that will enable us to improve must which has not 
the necessary proportion of each. The frequency of 
unfavorable seasons in Europe, set intelligent men to 
thinking ; their grapes were sadly deficient in sugar, did 
not ripen fully, and also lacked in flavor. How then 
could this defect be remedied, and a grape crop which 
was almost worthless from its want of sugar and excess 
of acids, be made to yield at least a fair article, instead 
of the sour and unsalable wine generally produced in 
such seasons ? Among the forem.ost who experimented 
with this object in view 'I will here mention Chaptal, 
Petiol, but especially Dr. Ludwig Gall, who has at last 
reduced the whole science of wine making to such a 
mathematical certainty, that we are amazed that so 
simple a process should not have been discovered long 
ago. It is the old story of the egg of Columbus, but the 
poor wine-makers of Germany and France, and we in 
this country also, are none the less indebted to those in- 
telligent and persevering men for the incalculable benefits 
they have conferred upon us. 

The production of good wine is thus reduced to a 
science ; though w^e cannot, perhaps, in a bad season, 
produce as high flavored and delicate wines as in the 
best years, we can now always make a fair article, by 
following the simple rules laid down by Dr. Gall. 
Nay, as most of our grapes, in a good season, contain 
flavor in excess, we can often make fully as palatable 
wine in a poor season, when that flavor is not so fully 



216 america:n^ grape growing 

developed, by merely adding water and sugar to dilute the 
acid. In this respect we can make a more uniform pro- 
duct from our strongly flavored varieties, than the Euro- 
peans can from their delicately flavored varieties of vini- 
fera, which are deficient in flavor in bad seasons. 

When this method was first introduced, it was calumni- 
ated and despised, called adulteration of wine, and even 
prohibited by the governments of Europe, but Dr. Gall 
fearlessly challenged his opponents to have his wines , 
analyzed by the most eminent chemists. This was re- 
peatedly done, and the results showed that they could find 
nothing but such ingredients as pure wine should con- 
tain ; and since men like .Von Babo, Dobereiner, and 
others, have openly endorsed and recommended Gallizing, 
prejudice is giving way before the light of scientific 
knowledge. The same will be the case here. Intelligent 
men will see that there is nothing reprehensible in the 
practice, and the public will, in time, prefer the properly 
Gallized, and, therefore, more palatable and more health- 
ful wines, to the foxy and acid productions of the stick- 
lers for natural wines. 

To determine the amount of sugar and acids in the 
must, we need a few necessary implements. The first is 
the must scale, or Saccharometer, already mentioned in 
the necessary implements for wine making (see fig. 29.) 
The most suitable one now in use is Oechsle's Must Scale, 
constructed on the principle that the instrument sinks 
the deeper into any fluid the thinner it is, or the less 
sugar it contains. It is generally made of silver, or 
German silver, although it is also made of glass. A 
represents a hollow cylinder, best made of glass, filled with 
must to the brim, into which place the must scale, B. 
This is composed of the hollow float, a, which keeps it 
suspended in the fluid ; of the weight, h, for holding it in 
a perpendicular position, and the scale, divided by small 
lines into from 50° to 100°. Before the scale is placed 



AKD WIKE MAKING. 217 

in the must, draw it several times through the mouth to 
moisten it, but allow no saliva to adhere to it. When 
the scale ceases to descend, note the degree to which 
it has sunk, after which, press it down with the finger a 
few degrees further, and on its standing still again, the 
line to which the must reaches, indicates its so-called 
weight, expressed by degrees. The must should have a 
temperature of 65° to 70°, be weighed in an entirely fresh 
state, before it shows any sign of fermentation, and should 
be free from husks ; if strained through a piece of 
mosquito bar, or small sieve all the better. 

This instrument, which is indispensable to every one 
who intends to make wine rationally, can now be had 
from prominent opticians in nearly every large town. It 
indicates the amount of sugar in the must, and its use is 
so simple, that every one can soon become familiar with 
it. The next step in the improvement of must was to 
determine the amount of acids it contained, and this 
problem has also been successfully solved by the inven- 
tion of the Acidimeter. 

As remarked before, TwitchelFs Acidimeter is the best 
now in use, and as it is accompanied by full directions 
for use, 1 need not repeat them here, further than to say 
that to ascertain the acidity of must, it should be tested 
w^hen pressed, as many of our pulpy grapes contain 
nearly all their acid in the pulp, and the instrument 
will, therefore, not give a fair indication until fermenta- 
tion has drawn out the acid. 

A normal must, to suit the prevailing taste here, should 
contain about four-thousandths parts of acids, while in 
Europe it varies from four and a half to seven-thousandths, 
as the taste there is generally in favor of more acid 
wines. I cannot do better here than quote from Dr. 
Gall, who gives the following directions as a guide to 
distinguish and determine the proportion of acids which 
10 



218 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWII^G 

a must should contaiu to be still agreeable to the palate, 
and good : 

^' Chemists distinguish the acids contained in the grape 
as the vinous, malic, grape, citric, tannic, gelatinous, 
and para-citric acids. Whether all of these are contained 
in the must, or which of them, is of small moment for 
us to know. For the pi'actical wine-maker it is sufficient 
to know, with full certainty, that, as the grape ripens, 
while the proportion of sugar increases, the quantity of 
acids continually diminishes, and hence, by leaving the 
grapes on the vines as long as possible, we have a double 
means of improving their products, the must or wine. 

" All wines, without exception, to be of good and 
agreeable taste, must contain from four and a halt to seven- 
thousandths part of free acids, and each must containing 
more than seven-thousandths part of free acids may be 
considered as having too little water and sugar in propor- 
tion to its acids. 

'' In all the wine-growing countries of Europe, for a 
number of years past, experience has proved that a cor- 
responding addition of sugar and water is the means of 
converting the sourest must, not only into a good drink- 
able wine, but also into as good a wine as can be produced 
in favorable years, except in that peculiar and delicate 
aroma found only in the must of well-ripened grapes, 
and which must, and will, always distinguish the wines 
made in the best seasons from those made in poor 
seasons. 

" The Saccharometer and Acidimeter, properly used, 
will give us the exact knowledge of what the must con- 
tains and what it lacks, and we have the means at hand, 
by adding water, to reduce the acids to their proper pro- 
portions, and by adding sugar, to increase the amount of 
sugar the must should contain ; in other words, we can 
change the poor must of indifferent seasons into the nor- 
mal must of the best seasons in everything, except its 



AKD WINE MAKING. 219 

bouquet or aroma, thereby conyerting an unwholesome and 
disagreeable drink into an agreeable and healthful one." 

THE CHANGE OF THE MUST INTO WINE. 

Let us glance for a few moments at this wonderful, 
simple, and yet so complicated process, to give a clearer 
insight into the functions which man has to perform to 
assist Nature, and have her work for him, to attain the 
desired end. I cannot do better than to quote again from 
Dr. Gall. He says : ''To form a correct opinion of 
what may, and can, be done, in the manufacture of wine, 
we must be thoroughly convinced that Nature, in her 
operations, has other objects in view than merely to 
serve man as liis careful cook and butler. Had the high- 
est object of the Creator, in the creation of the grape, 
been simply to combine in the juice of the fruit nothing 
but what is indispensable to the formation of the delicious 
beverage for the accommodation of man, it might have 
been still easier done for him by at once filling the ber- 
ries with wine already made. But in the production of 
fruits, the first object of all is to provide for the propaga- 
tion and preservation of the species. Each fruit con- 
tains the germ of a new plant, and a quantity of nu- 
tritious matter surrounding and developing that germ. 
The general belief is that this nutritious matter, and even 
the peculiar combination in whicb it is found in the fruit, 
has been made directly for the immediate use of man. 
This, however, is a mistake. The nutritious matter of 
the grape, as in the apple, pear, or any similar product, 
is designed by Nature only to serve as the first nourish- 
ment of the future plant, the germ of which lies in it. 
There are thousand of fruits of no use whatever, and even 
noxious to man, and there are thousands more, which, 
before they can be used, must be divested of certain 
parts, necessary, indeed, to the nutrition of the future 



220 AMERICAiq- GRAPE GROWII^G. 

plant, but unfit, in their present state, for tlie use or 
nourishment of man. For instance, barley contains 
starch, mucilaginous sugar, gum, adhesive matter, vege- 
table albumen, phosphate of lime, oil, fibre, and water. 
All these are necessary for the formation of roots, stalks, 
leaves, flowers, and the new grain ; but for the manufac- 
ture of beer, the brewer needs only the first three sub- 
stances. The same rule applies to the grape. 

*^In this use of the grape, all depends upon the judg- 
ment of man to select such of its parts as he wishes, and 
by his skill he adapts and applies them in the manner 
beat for his purposes. In eating the grape he throws 
away the skins and seeds ; for raisins, he evaporates the 
water, retaining only the solid parts, from which, when 
he uses them, he rejects the seeds. If he manufactures 
must he lets the skins remain. In making wine he sets 
free the carbonic acid' contained in the must, and re- 
moves the lees, gum, tartar, and, in short, everything 
deposited during and immediately after fermentation, as 
well as when it is put into casks and bottles. He not 
only removes from the wine its sediments, but watches 
the fermentation and checks it as soon as vinous fer- 
mentation is over, and the formation of vinegar about to 
begin. He refines his wine by an addition of foreign sub- 
stances; if necessary, he sulphurizes it, and, by one means 
or another, remedies its diseases. 

^'^The manufacture of wine is thus a many-sided art, 
and he who does not understand it, or knows not how to 
guide and direct the powers of Nature to his own pur- 
poses, may as well give up all hopes of success in it." 

So far Dr. Gall ; and to the intelligent and unbiased 
mind, the truth and force of these remarks will be appar- 
ent. How absurd then are the blind ravings of those 
who speak of ^'^ natural" wines, and condemn as adul- 
teration and fraud every addition of sugar and water to 
the must by man, in seasons when Nature has not fully 



AND WIKE MAKING. 221 

done her part. There is no such thing as ^' natural 
wine/' for wine, especially good wine, is the product of 
art, and an artificial process from beginning to end. An 
all-wise Creator gave us the raw materials for our suste- 
nance and convenience, but gave us also reasoning powers 
to convert them to our use, and make them more whole- 
some and palatable. Shall we eat the raw potato simply 
because it is a natural production, or are we justified in 
cooking and roasting it, to make it more palatable and 
wholesome ? How would the ^^ naturalist " stare if some 
fine morning his good wife would set a cup filled with 
raw coffee beans and some water before him, instead of 
his usual fragrant beverage, and a dish of raw wheat in- 
stead of the usual light rolls which tempt his appetite ? 
Yet the making of coffee and bread are even less natural, 
more artificial, than the addition of sugar and water to 
the must. Would not the wine-maker act as foolishly as 
the housewife who puts raw coffee and wheat upon the 
table, instead of the fragrant cup and white roll, if he 
has it in his power to remedy the deficiencies of Mature 
by such means as she herself supplies in good seasons, 
and which ought, and would be in the must, but for un- 
favorable circumstances over which we have no control ? 
Wine thus improved is just as pure as if the water and 
sugar had naturally been in the grapes in the right pro- 
portions, just as beneficial to health, and only the fanati- 
cal numskull can call it adulterated. But these preju- 
dices will disappear before the light of science and truth, 
and have disappeared already, until there is not a single 
establishment of any consequence, either here or in 
Europe, where it is not followed, either secretly or open- 
ly, and to the manifest improvement of their wines. 

Yet, strange to say, these same ^'naturalists " will 
enjoy sparkling wines with a great deal of gusto, although 
they are a still more artificial product. And many of 
them will smack their lips over some rare so-called, " Old 



222 AMERICAN" GRAPE GROWING 

Port," which has never seen a grape, but is some skillful 
concoction of logwood, spices, tartaric acid, syrup, alco- 
hol, and tannin. '' Oh, consistency, thou art a jewel !" 

Let us now observe the change which fermentation 
makes in converting the must into wine. The nitro- 
genous compounds — vegetable albumen, gluten — (which 
are contained in the grape, and which are dissolved in 
the must as completely as the sugar), under certain cir- 
cumstances turn into the fermenting principle, and so 
change the must into wine. This change is brought 
about by the fermenting substance coming in contact 
with the air, and receiving oxygen from it, in conse- 
quence of which it coagulates, and shows itself in the 
turbid state of must, or young wine. The coagulation 
of the lees takes place but gradually, and just in the de- 
gree that the exhausted lees settle. The sugar generally 
turns into alcohol. The acids remain partly as tartaric 
acid, are partly turned into ether, or settle with 
the lees, crystallize, and adhere to the bottom of the 
cask. The etheric oil or aroma remains, and develops 
into bouquet, as does the tannin, to a certain degree. The 
albumen and gluten principally settle, although a small 
portion of them remains in the wine. The coloring 
matter and extractive principle remain, but change some- 
what by fermentation. 

Thus it is, that must containing a large amount of 
sugar, needs a longer time to become clear, while that 
containing but a small portion soon becomes clear. Many 
southern wines retain a certain amount of sugar undecom- 
posed ; such are called sweet, or liqueur wines, whereas 
wines in which the whole of the sugar has been decom- 
posed in the fermentation, are called sour or dry wines. 

I have thought it necessary to be thus explicit to give 
my readers an insight into the general principles which 
should govern us in wine making. I have quoted freely 
from the excellent work of Dr. Gall. We will now see 



AJ^D WINE MAKII^G. 223 

how we can reduce these principles to practice. I will 
illustrate by an example. 

NORMAL MUST. 

Experiments continued for a number of years have 
proved that, in favorable seasons, grape juice contains on 
an average in 1,000 pounds : 

Sugar 240 pounds. 

Acids 6 " 

Water T54 " 

1,000 

This proportion would constitute what I call a normal 
must. But suppose that in an inferior season the must 
contains, instead of the above, as follows : 

Sugar .150 pounds. 

Acids 9 " 

Water .....841 

1,000 

What should we do to bring such a must to the condi- 
tion of a normal must ? We calculate thus : If, with 6 
lbs. of acids in a normal must, there is 240 lbs. of sugar, 
how much is wanted for 9 lbs. of acids ? Answer. — 360 
lbs. Our next problem is : If, with 6 lbs. of acids in a 
normal must, 754 lbs. of water appear, how much water 
is required for 9 pounds of acids ? Answer. — 1,131 lbs. 
As, therefore, the must which we intend to improve by 
neutralizing its acids, should contain 360 lbs. of sugar, 9 
lbs. of acids, and 1,131 lbs. of water, but contains already 
150 lbs. of sugar, 9 lbs. of acid, and 841 lbs. of water, 
there remain to be added, 210 lbs. of sugar, no acids, and . 
290 lbs. of water. 

By ameliorating a quantity of 1,000 lbs. of must, by 
210 lbs. sugar, and 290 lbs. of water, we obtain 1,500 lbs. 
of must, consisting of the same properties as the normal 
must, which makes a first class wine. 

This is wine making in Europe, according to Dr. Gall's 



224 AMERICAiq- GRAPE GR0WI2q"G 

method. Now let us see liow we can adapt it to Ameri- 
can grapes and wines. 

THE MUST OP AMERICAN GRAPES. 

If we closely examine the musts of most of our American 
grapes, we find that they not only contain an excess of 
acids in inferior seasons, but even a greater superabund- 
ance of flavor or aroma, and of tannin and coloring mat- 
ter. There is such an abundance of flavor in many of 
them, that, were the quantity doubled by addition of 
sugar and water, there would still be an abundance. 
"With some varieties, such as Concord and Ives, if fer- 
mented on the husks, it is so strongly foxy, as to be dis- 
agreeable, and as the pulp of them is very tough and 
slippery, they can not be pressed clean without fermen- 
tation. We must, therefore, not only ameliorate the 
acid, but also the flavor and astringency, of which the 
tannin contained in the stems is the principal cause. 
Therefore, it is even more important to us than to Euro- 
pean wine-makers, to gain the knowledge to Gallize our 
wines properly. By proper management we can change 
must, which would otherwise make a disagreeable wine, 
into one in which everything is in its right proportion, 
and which will thus suit a customer to whose fastidious 
taste it would otherwise be repugnant. True, our grapes 
will ripen better here, so that we can, in most seasons, 
produce a wine without a great excess of acids, but the 
American taste requires a less acid wine any way, and we 
must dilute the aroma to make our wines salable. Here 
another difficulty presents itself. The riper a grape is, the 
more of its peculiar aroma will it develop, and if we 
would let our Concords hang until they are so ripe that 
the acid has been reduced to the proper proportion, the 
aroma becomes so strong that it is very repugnant to a 
refined taste. What course remains then for us to take ? 
Shall we let our grapes hang until the acid is reduced. 



AN"D WIITE MAKIITG. 225 

and make an abominably, foxy wine, which no o:ie will 
buy ? Or shall we gather our grapes when well colored, 
Gallize the must until the acid and flavor are reduced to 
the proper amount^ and thus produce a very fair, light- 
red wine, palatable to most, and a refreshing and in- 
vigorating beverage to all ? I think the latter is the best 
course, and the only reasonable one. 

At that time the must of Concord grapes will gener- 
ally weigh about 65° to 70° on Oechsle's Scale, and the 
Acidimeter will indicate about 6°. ;N"ow we make our 
calculation as follows : A normal must, to suit the 
palate here, should indicate about 80°, and show 4° on 
the Acidimeter. To reduce the acid to 4° we must add 
one-third water, or^ in other words, if we have 480 lbs. 
of Concord grapes, which would make 40 gallons 
of pure juice, we must add 20 gallons of water. 
To these 20 additional gallons of water, we must 
add 40 lbs. of the best crushed sugar, to bring the 
water up to the ratio of normal must, 80°. But we 
have also a discrepancy of 15° in the must if it indicated 
65°. To bring this also up to 80° we must add three- 
eighths pound of sugar to every gallon of must, or 15 lbs. 
to the 40 gallons. The addition to 480 lbs. of grapes 
would then be as follows : 20 gallons of water, 55 lbs. of 
sugar, and no acid, making 60 gallons of must of normal 
proportions, instead of 40 of pure juice. These will be 
about the right proportions for a pleasant and hand- 
some wine, of good color, pleasant flavor, and not too 
, acid to suit the general taste, with also the proper pro- 
portion of tannin, which will be marketable sooner, and 
at a much higher price, than if we had allowed the grapes 
to hang a month longer, and then pressed the natural 
must, which would, perhaps, not contain an excess of 
acid then, but certainly an excess of foxy flavor and 
tannin. 

Different grapes will, of course, require different treat- 



22^3 AMERICAH GRAPE GROWIKG 

ment. It is only by experimenting that we can find how 
much each variety shonld be Gallized to produce the 
best possible wine. Nor are the grapes alike in all sea- 
sons, and one season's product of the same grape may re- 
quire different treatment than the other. To illustrate a 
case in point : While experimenting with varieties, I 
had, in the summer of 1866, enough of Rulander grapes^ 
then a new variety, to make 5 gallons of pure juice, 
which, when tried by the saccharometer, showed 104°. 
This was pressed and put into a 5-gallon cask. The 
husks were thrown back into the fermenting vat, and 5 
gallons of water, with 15 lbs. of sugar added, bringing 
the water up to 100°, and fermented 48 hours, then 
pressed and put into another 5-gallon cask. When press- 
ing these my vintner thought that there was too much 
flavor and character in the husks left to be thrown away, 
and he once more added 5 gallons of water, with 15 lbs. of 
sugar, and fermented this three days and three nights, 
then pressed, and put into a third 5-gallon cask. The 
wines became clear at about the same time, had nearly 
the same color, and when tested by several connoisseurs, 
they pronounced all good, but No. 2 the smoothest and 
finest wine ; No. 1 rather the fullest, but somewhat 
more astringent, while No. 3 was but little inferior to 
No. 2. This verdict was given without knowing how 
the wines had been made. We then mixed the three 
wines, equal parts, in a tumbler, and upon testing, found 
the mixture a better wine than either was separately. 
The three, after this trial, were put together, and made 
a wine like very fine Golden Sherry, which took the first 
premium as best light-colored wine of any variety, at the 
Combined Exhibition of the Longworth Wine House and 
the American Grape Growers' Association, at Cincinnati, 
in 1867, in competition with over 30 samples of the finest 
Catawbas, Delawares, and Herbemont, as well as numer- 
ous other first premiums wherever exhibited. I have 



AND WINE MAKING. 227 

made hundreds of sucli experiments, modifying the treat- 
ment with the character of the variety. I know, there- 
fore, whereof I speak. Of course the above is an ex- 
treme case ; but few varieties have so much flavor and 
character as the Rulander, and the treatment which pro- 
duced so fine a wine from this grape, would have made a 
very flat '^'^Maxatawney," a grape which has but little 
character. When making such experiments I made it a 
rule always to keep some of the pure Juice by itself, for 
comparison, and the tests were, therefore, made with the 
greatest fairness, and with but one aim, that is, to ascer- 
tain how the best possible wine could be made from any 
variety. Were I to give more of these experiments here, 
my readers would, perhaps, be even more astouished than 
I was, at the results ; but facts are stubborn, and can not 
be controverted. Seeing, and in this instance, tasting, 
is believing, and as I kept a very careful record of all 
cellar operations, there could be no mistakes. 

I Avill here quote one of my first experiments made with 
very imperfectly ripened Catawba grapes, made in 1865, 
when that grape ripened very poorly, on account of mil- 
dew and rot. I found, on testing the must, that it would 
only show from 52° to 70°, while a normal Catawba must 
should v>^eigh at least 80° in good seasons. My calcula- 
tions for making the additions which I knew were imper- 
atively necessary, were based upon the following reasons : 
If normal must weighs 80°, and this averages but 60°, 
there is a deficiency of half a pound of sugar to the gal- 
lon of must. But there should also be an excess of acid 
of at least one-third, as the Catawba has a superabund- 
ance of acid in even the most favorable seasons. I must, 
therefore, add at least one-third more water to dilute 
the acid, and to this water add 2 lbs. of sugar to each 
gallon, so that the whole mixture will weigh 80°. I did 
so, fermented all on the husks 36 hours, and the result 
was a very fine, golden-colored Catawba, which I sold 



228 AMERICAI^^ GRAPE GEOWIN'G 

before it was six montlis old, at tlie higliest figures Ca- 
tawba wines were then bringing, to the IJrst buyer who 
came and tasted it. 

As the Catawba constitutes yet, to a great extent, the 
product of Eastern and Northern vineyards, it may be 
well to give a few more hints to my readers on the man- 
agement of Catawba must. This variety contains, as 
already mentioned, a very large amount of acids, as well 
as a great deal of tannin and fl.avor. This must be ap- 
parent to every one who has ever eaten well-ripened Ca- 
tawba grapes. It has besides a very tough and acid 
center or pulp, of Avhich every one can convince himself 
when eating even the most thoroughly ripened Catawba 
grapes. The first taste is delightful, but let him press 
the pulp and skins closely and he will find that the after 
taste is sour and rough. Of course fermentation extracts 
all this, and while the Catawba contains all the ingredi- 
ents for a palatable wine, these two are present to a very 
great excess, and make the wine sour, astringent, and 
unpalatable. What then is necessary ? We must simply 
add water and sugar, even in the best vintages, to ameli- 
orate this, and much more in inferior seasons, and we 
will make better wines than are now in the market and 
much more wholesome, than the so-called *' Sweet Ca- 
tawbas," which are villainous compounds of unripe grape 
juice, raw spirits, and syrup added after fermentation, 
and afford an excuse for the habitual tippler to say that 
he drinks only wine, not whiskey. It would be better if 
he did take spirits so far as the effects on his system are 
concerned, for such mixtures intoxicate nearly as much, 
and the deleterious stuff they contain is only glossed 
over by the syrup. If Catawba wine is rationally Gall- 
ized, it makes a very pleasant, high-flavored wine, and 
those who prefer to have it still sweeter, can add sugar 
when drinking it, to suit their taste. If this were done, 
we Avould have no need of these " Sweet Catawbas " 



AN^D WIKE MAKIKG. 229 

which now disgrace the wine trade of the country, and 
pure, light wine would have a hetter chance to become 
the universal beverage of the people. I do not pretend 
to give fixed rules to do this ; even were I competent, the 
product varies too much with the locality and the season. 
I merely attempt to show the way. Let every one experi- 
ment, and note the results, and he will soon see liow 
far he should go to make the best wine, for he should not 
go farther. Let the best product always be his aim, not 
quantity. 

The Concord, now so generally grown, is another va- 
riety which is immensely improved by Gallizing, and, as 
before remarked, to make the most palatable wine, should 
not be allowed to get too ripe. When the grapes are 
fully and evenly colored on the bunch, it is time to 
gather it, and I would rather add more sugar, than wait 
until it is fully ripe, as then its flavor becomes too strong 
and apparent. The same rule may be applied to the 
Martha, which is best when fairly ripe, but when over- 
ripe loses its sprightli'uess, and becomes foxy, while its 
wine is, when made in time, fully as good as the best 
Catawba. The addition of from one-third to one-half 
water and sugar, or in other words, from two-thirds to 
one gallon of water and sugar to every 12 lbs. of grapes, 
and the whole mixture brought to 80° on Oechsle's Scale, 
fermented about 36 to 48 hours on the husks, in a tem- 
perature of 75°, will generally make the most palatable 
wine, from most of the Labrusca class and their hybrids. 
The Goethe, under the same treatment, will make an ex- 
cellent white wine, sprightly and pleasant, with just 
enough of its fine Frontignan flavor to make it agreeable. 
Those who wish to satisfy themselves, can easily make 
the experiment, as I did, cautiously, and step by step. 
Let them make a small quantity of pure juice-wine, so- 
called, and compare it with wines made at the same 
time, of the same grapes, but Gallized more or less, and 



230 AMEKICAK URAPE GEOWING 

keep a careful record of the operation. This was my 
method, and I aimed always at improving the quality ; 
so soon as I found the quality diminished, I considered 
it time to stop, while so long as the quality improved, I 
thought it safe to advance. Consider each variety a 
separate subject for experiment, it will not do to trust 
to surmises and guess work, nor can any rule be given 
that will apply to all varieties alike. 

So far I have spoken mostly of the Labruscas and their 
hybrids. When we come to the mstivaUs class we have 
entirely different material to deal with, and while we may, 
and can, by judicious Gallizing, improve some of chem, and 
make them smoother and more palatable, yet with those 
which are used chiefly for medical purposes [as Norton's 
Virginia, which has become a great remedy for dysen- 
tery, bowel complaints, and cholera infantum], it will be 
better to let the grapes hang until they are dead ripe. 
Stem them before crushing, add very little or no water, 
and ferment on the husks for a week, or even longer. 
Their flavor is not objectionable, and the object here is, 
to make an astringent and heavy wine, and develop all 
the medicinal qualities which that grape possesses in 
such an eminent degree. To make simply a good Claret 
from it, of course it can be Callized, and will make even 
a more pleasant wine for every day use. This class, 
however, also differs as much in its varieties as the La- 
hrusca. I have already cited an example of the Rulander, 
which has a decided Sherry flavor. The Hermann, a 
seedling of the Norton's, is another with a strong Sherry 
character, so marked that the pure juice has too strong a 
flavor, yet when properly Gallized it makes a delightful 
deep-yellow wine, equal to any Golden Sherry, and the 
white seedling from it seems to be a still greater improve- 
ment, as it is much more delicate and juicy than its 
parent. And here let me make a prediction, to which 
long years of careful observation have led me, and whict 



AXD WTNE MAKIKG. 2ol 

is shared by all of the prominent grape-growers of the 
State, so far as I know. It is this, that the grape-grow- 
ers of the State, if they turn their attention chiefly to 
the best of the mstivalis, the Cynthiana, Norton's Vir- 
ginia, Neosho, and others, which have not been so fully 
tried, will, at no distant day, excel the products of the 
choicest vineyards of the European Continent, and may 
safely challenge the world in the production of the 
choicest Burgundies, Clarets, and Sherries, and the 
sooner we turn our attention to tliem the better. Cali- 
fornia, and even the East, may excel us in the quantity, 
and rival us in the quality of white wines, but from aU 
the information I can obtain, they can not come near to 
our red wines, which are even now the equals of the 
best wines of Burgundy. This is our proper field, and 
the sooner we concentrate our energies upon it, the better 
will it be for us. They are, at the same time. Phylloxera- 
proof, and we need not fear that they will ''go back" 
upon us. 

In the cordifoUa we have still another material. The 
•grapes of this class may be said to occupy a position be- 
tween the Labruscas and the mstivalis class. Nearly all 
contain considerable acid, and an abundance of flavor, 
and are much improved by judicious Gallizing ; but as 
their skin and pulp is tender, they need not be fermented 
on the husks for any length of time. Twenty-four hours 
of lively fermentation will generally be sufficient for the 
Elvira, Taylor, and Clinton. They pvomise to furnish 
us another class of wines, and as they are also Phylloxera- 
proof, we may consider these two classes as the founda- 
tion of future grape growing. We have but just com- 
menced experimenting with this class, but the great 
success achieved by Mr. Rommel and others justify the 
most sanguine hopes. I was particularly struck with 
some wines shown me by Mr. James Ricketts, from sev- 
eral Clinton seedlings, foremost among which are the 



232 AMEKICAN" GEAPE GROWING 

Bacchus and Ariadne. They show a new class of wines, 
light red in color, of great body, and very peculiar flavor. 
Should these varieties prove to be adapted to more gen- 
eral culture, we may expect some remarkable wines from 
them. 

Of course these are only general hints, which are cal- 
culated to show my wine-making friends the way they 
must go, to make palatable and wholesome wines. I 
shall not attempt to go into details about varieties, as 
even these differ so much in different localities that no 
rules for their treatment could be given to apply in all 
cases. JSTor do I pretend to be perfect, but I am convinced 
more and more every day, how little I yet know, and 
how much I have to learn. 

In all my experiments I aimed to come as near the 
normal must of the variety I experimented with as possi- 
ble, in the specific gravity of the water and must, when 
mixed. I have no doubt that we also have much to learn 
yet in the judicious mixing of several kinds of grapes. 
Experiments in that line have already shown astonishing 
results, and the art of blending and cutting wines, so 
well understood and practised in tlie best cellars of Eu- 
rope, is yet in its infancy here, but will, no doubt, have 
a great influence upon our future products. But this 
art can only be based upon a thorough knowledge of the 
characteristics of each individual variety, and he who 
undertakes the task must bring to it a peculiar talent 
and highly developed taste, as well as the nicest discrimi- 
nation of the traits of each variety. If our grape growing 
and wine making had the experience of several centuries 
to look back upon, we could base our operations upon 
certain knowledge. Now we are feeling our way. Tiie 
pioneers who first made the clearings in our woods, 
greatly rejoiced when they could eat the first hoe-cake 
from the corn their industry had planted in the wilder- 
ness, and still more enjoyed the rolls made of their first 



AND WINE MAKING. 233 

wheat. Like them are- we overjoyed at what we have 
achieved, and know that the grape, so lately but the 
child of these same forests, is susceptible of as much im- 
provement and as great a change, as that which converted 
the old time clearing, with its simple log cabin, into the 
pleasant homestead with its smiling and tasteful lawn and 
orchard, rich with golden fruits. And those who intend 
to be the winners in this race, must have the pluck and 
perseverance of the old frontier pioneers, hoping always, 
even in the most gloomy times, for brighter days, and 
never doubting of the end. 

Dr. Gall recommended grape sugar as the best to be 
used for Gallizing. This is made froni potato starch, 
but all the samples I have yet tried (are not pure enough, 
and leave an unpleasant, bitter taste in the wine. I 
have, therefore, used the best and purest cane sugar, 
and as it also dissolves more readily in water, I prefer it, 
and have found it to answer every purpose. I have lately 
tasted a sugar made from the Minnesota or Early Amber 
cane, which seems to be well adapted to the purpose, and 
if the production of its sugar assumes the dimensions 
it now promises, we may have an important advantage 
over our former method, in a cheaper and better 
article of sugar. The best cane sugar when dissolved 
in water in the proportion of 2 lbs. of sugar to the gallon, 
will show upon the scale about 80°. In making additions 
to Catawba, Goethe, Martha, Elvira, and all the lighter 
wines, it takes about 2 lbs. of sugar to the gallon of 
water, to produce the weight of normal must of these va- 
rieties. Eor Norton's Virginia, Cynthiana, Eulander, and 
all the heavier wines, it will take, at least, %^ / ^ lbs. of 
sugar to the gallon of water, as their normal must ranges 
from 100° to 110°, and sometimes 120°, in the product 
of the best seasons. 

As a general rule it may be assumed, however, that 
our native grapes, with their strong flavor and abundance 



234 AMERICAN" GRAPE GROWIKG 

of tannin and coloring matter, will admit, nay, require, 
much more Gallizing than the more delicate and finer 
flavored grapes of Euroj^e. How far we can go with each 
variety I do not presume to say, and only experience can 
safely guide us here. It must be apparent to every one 
who is ever so slightly acquainted with wine making, how . 
widely different the varieties are in their characteristics 
and constituents. I have tried only to give an out- 
line of the necessary operations, as well as tlie prin- 
ciples underlying the science of wine making, have 
quoted facts, only so far as I have become familiar with 
them through long practice and observation. No one 
can be better convinced than I am, how much we have 
yet to learn, and how wide the field that lies before us. 
I have been severely censured for the open advocacy of the 
method of Dr. Gall, even by those who have practised it as 
zealously and not always confined themselves as much to 
its true limits as I have tried to do. Many of our best 
wine-makers think that we should keejo the knowledge we 
have gained to ourselves, and profit by it in secret, in- 
stead of openly facing a prejudice which we know to exist. 
But it has always been a deep-seated conviction with me 
that knowledge, like God's sun, should be the common 
property of all ; that it is a duty every citizen owes to the 
community in which he lives, to impart freely what he 
may know, to every one. Only thus can we progress in 
this fast age, where progress is the watchword. Truth 
and justice need never fear the light, they can only gain 
by close investigation. 

And here let us look at the probable effects these' 
methods of improvement are likely to have upon grape 
culture, and ask ourselves : Is there anything repre- 
hensible in them, any reason why they should not be- 
come generally known ? I think the answer is easily 
found. Gallized wines contain nothing, which fermented 
grape juice, in its purest and most perfect condition, does 



AND WINE MAKING. 235 

not also contain. They are, therefore, as i^uro ai any 
grape juice can be, with the consideration in their favor, 
that they contain all the ingredients in their proper pro- 
portion. 

It is a matter of course that careless and slovenly work- 
ers have failed, and will continue to fail, in making good 
wine by this, or any other method, but this caunot be 
used as an argument against it. To make a good article 
the peculiarities of each variety must be closely studied, 
and we must not think that water and sugar will ac- 
complish everything. Its use should be limited, and be- 
comes abuse as soon as it oversteps that limit. 

But I will hope that I have contributed my mite to the 
fund of universal knowledge, and if this little volume 
only aids every farmer in the land, who can grow grapes, 
to make a few barrels of pure, light wine for family use, 
to take the place of poor whiskey and brandy, now the 
bane and curse of so many households, I am more than 
repaid for the labor of many a lonely early morning hour 
it has cost me. Mine has been an incessantly busy life, 
and the time for these scribblings has been stolen mostly 
from the ''small, still hours." I know of no holidays, 
and have often had to force exhausted nature to the 
task. This must be my excuse for its many imperfec- 
tions. But I flatter myself that I am not entirely mis- 
taken, when I think I send it on a temperance mission, 
perhaps more true and, therefore, more effective than any 
Murphy movement. I have always looked upon the gen- 
eral use of pure, light wine as the best temperance mea- 
sure that could be adopted. A glass of wine, used early 
in the morning, I have found to be the best preventive 
agamst malaria, and nothing revives the sinking energies 
of the worn out laborer better during a hot summer day, 
as I know from actual experience. I have known it to 
save life in dangerous diseases, and could cite many in- 
stances did tmie and space permit. 



236 AMEEICAi^ GEAPE GROWIKG 

Let US all then further the cause of grape-culture. 
The laborer by producing fruit, the mechanic by inven- 
tions, the scientist by improving our methods, the law- 
giver by wise laws in its favor, and all others by using its 
products in moderation, as one of the best gifts from the 
fountain of all that is good, pure, and beautiful. 



CHAPTER XLYII. 

WINE MAKING RENDERED EAST. 

Perhaps it may have seemed as if I was only writing 
for the benefit of those who can follow grape growing and 
wine making on a larger scale, with abundant means at 
their command, to build commodious cellars, plant large 
vineyards, and hire laborers to do the work. This is not 
the case, however. If I have given the outlines of 
larger operations it is because our object should always 
be to attain perfection in everything ; I have never for a 
moment lost sight of the interests of those, who, like 
myself, have to commence at the lowest round of the 
ladder, who have to make a small beginning, and work 
their way up through untold difficulties. There is not 
an operation in the vineyard, from the clearing of the 
unbroken forest and prairie, to the finishing touch given 
to the wine at its last rackmg, which I have not performed 
and am not thorouglily familiar with, and I can, there- 
fore, fully sympathize with the poor laborer, who has 
nothing but his industrious hands, and an honest in- 
tention to succeed. 

While it may hardly be advisable now, in these days of 
low prices and light demand for wine, to begin grape 
growing as a means of support, with the hope of realiz- 
ino: a handsome income from it in the course of a few 



AND wiKE maki:n^g. 237 

years, yet there is no reason why every farmer should not 
have a small vineyard, grow his own grajDes, and make 
his barrel or two of wine, or why every owner of a garden 
should be without enough grapes for the use of the 
family. 

Grape-vines of the more common varieties are very cheap 
now, and an outlay of $5 to $10 will buy one hundred to 
two hundred vines — enough to make a start with. Plant 
these, at any rate, if you cannot do more, and grow your 
own vines hereafter to enlarge your vineyard. Wire for 
trellis is also very cheap now, and it is not needed the 
first year or two. A few hundred vines can be easily 
kept in order before breakfast ; let the children help you, 
they can do a great deal of the lighter work, and will 
learn to take a delight in it. And when your first crop 
of grapes ripens, and you can make a few barrels of wine, 
if you have no press or' commodious cellar, you can find a 
cider press somewhere, and room in the cellar of one of your 
neighbors to store it. One of our most successful wine- 
growers commenced his operations with a sim23le hole in 
the ground, dug under his house, and his first wine-press 
was merely a large beam, let into a tree, which acted as a 
lever upon the grapes, with a press bed, also of his own 
making. His vineyard and wine cellars are now among 
the best in the county, and although he no longer lives 
to enjoy it, his family are left in affluent circumstances, 
and grape growing alone has made them wealthy. Be- 
sides, we have got down to the lowest prices, and as the 
prospects for the grape-growers of the Old World, and 
even of California, darken on account of the Phylloxera, 
our own begin to brighten. We know that we have 
something we can depend upon, and feel that better 
days will come again for the grape-growers and wine- 
makers of the country. 

Of course it is not advisable to keep the wine over 
summer in an indifferent cellar, but if it is good, as it 



238 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

ought to be, you can easily dispose of it as soon as clear. 
Or you can dispose of your grapes, if you can not or will 
not make them into wine, to some neighbor, or market 
them yourself. Nearly all of our small country towns 
afford a ready market for a small quantity, indeed often 
a better one than do the large cities. 

Another way to make grape growing and wine making 
easy, is to form grape and fruit colonies. There are lo- 
cations enough in all the States of the Union, where suit-,j 
able lands for this purpose can be had cheap. The ad- 
vantages of such colonies can be easily seen. If each one 
has a small piece of suitable land (and he does not need a 
large tract for this business), they can assist each other in 
plowing and sub-soiling, and will thus be able to do with 
fewer animals, by preparing the soil first for one, then for 
the other, the ravages of birds and insects will hardly be 
felt, the neighbors can Join together in building a cellar, 
where all can store their wine, and of which one can take 
the management. They can market their product easier, 
obtain better prices, and lower rates of transportation to 
large cities, than single individuals, and also make a bet- 
ter and more uniform product. 

There are thousands of acres of land well adapted for 
the purpose, in Missouri and other States, which could be 
had at very low prices, where the virgin soil waits only the 
bidding of intelligent and combined labor, to bring forth 
the richest fruits. There is room for thousands — may it 
soon be filled with willing hearts and hands to undertake 
the task. 

If our hopes are not so sanguine, the immediate gains 
not as great, as they were fifteen years ago — yet we have a 
surer basis to work upon than at that time, and our so- 
bered expectations are more apt to be realized, and even 
excelled, than then. If we aim at the best products only, 
rather than at quantity, we are not so likely to overstock 
the market, and the increased prices we obtain will more 



AND WINE MAKING. 239 

than make up for it. It is much easier to make a start, 
labor is cheaper, vines are lower, and all the material we 
use, as well as the land, is lower, and it will be safe to 
assume that it will not cost half as much to obtain a 
start now as then. 

We will have to work early and late, however, with 
head and hands, for it is not an easy task upon which the 
grape-grower enters. It is not the life of a sluggard, nor 
the romantic idyl of poetic leisure. But what of that ? 
Our task is the production of one of God's noblest gifts 
to man, and we will follow it with hopeful hearts, in the 
confidence that He will send His sunshine as well as His 
showers, to gladden our hearts and to further our work, 
until it is crowned by a rich harvest of purple and golden 
clusters, and their juice is changed into "■ Wine that 
maketh glad the heart of man." 



240 AMERICAK GRAPE GROWING 

CHAPTER XLVIII. 

SPECIES USED FOR STOCKS AND THEIR PREPARATION. 

Grape culture in the Golden State differs so essentially 
from that in Missouri and the East, that practices fol- 
lowed there are inadmissible here, or can only be applied 
with essential modifications. The innumerable varieties 
of Vitis vinifera, or Asiatic grape, form the leading class 
of grapes here, and succeed admirably in the moderate 
climate and dry summers of California. This makes an 
addition to the classification of vines necessary, espe- 
cially as other native species have become better known, 
and promise to become im2:)ortant factors as stocks, in 
their resistance to Phylloxera, to which all the varieties 
of F. vlnifera^ncGWYnh. A portion of the native species 
of the vine are described on page 12 and the following 
pages ; what is given here is supplementary to that. 

Vitis yinifera, Linnaeus (Asiatic or European grape). 
— Leaves more or less lobed and serrated, smooth and 
glossy on the upper side, generally more delicate in tex- 
ture than the native American species; the wood more 
stocky, and shorter-jointed. The fruit differs so much 
in the varieties that it would be useless to attempt a de- 
scription here. Its general characteristics are, however, 
a thin skin, a greater abundance of juice, and in the 
fleshy varieties a crackling texture of the flesh, without 
the tough and slimy pulp of the Labrusca. 

YiTis RUPESTRis, Scheclc (Bush Grape).— Vine with 
very short joints and numerous branches, growing more 
like a bush or shrub than a vine, with small, heart-shaped, 
shining leaves, smooth on both sides. Berry small, mostly 
black (although white varieties have been found), juicy, 
without pulp; bunch small, seldom containing more than 
a dozen berries. A native of Southern Missouri, Arkan- 



AND WII^^E MAKING. 241 

sas, and Texas, where it grows on dry, flinty hillsides, 
either supporting itself or climbing over low bushes. It 
has very firm, shining, thin roots, and has lately attract- 
ed great attention in France as a resistant stock for 
grafting. It makes a good, deep-colored wine, but will 
hardly afford enough to be profitable as a direct pro- 
ducer. Propagates readily from cuttings. 

ViTis Californica, Bentham (California Grape). — 
This is found everywhere throughout the State, along the 
ravines and water courses, seldom on diy ground. It is 
a strong, vigorous grower, clambering to the tops of 
trees and trailing along the ground. Wood smooth, 
light-brown, long and thin, but siiort-jointed ; leaves 
heart-shaped, downy on both sides, though much more 
so on the lower; young shoots and leaves of a peculiar 
whitish tinge ; tendrils numerous, reddish. Bunch long 
and loose; berries small, round, black; roots very numer- 
ous and strong, but thick, and soft in texture, with a 
tendency to go down perpendicularly. Eeports are. con- 
flicting about its propagation from cuttings ; some say it 
grows easily, others claim that it strikes root with diffi- 
culty. Its resistant qualities do not appear to be fully 
determined ; its strong growth is in its favor, while the 
softness of its roots are an unfavorable indication. 

YiTis Artzonica, Engelmann (Arizona Vine). — This 
differs very much from the preceding in its habit and 
general appearance. While the California vine trails over 
the ground, the Arizona is a very upright grower. W^ood 
smooth, yellowish, slender, and long- jointed ; leaves 
heart-shaped, shining, and smooth on both sides. The 
roots are not so soft as those of the California grape, re- 
sembling those of the riparia, though not quite so firm. 
I have not seen the fruit, but creditable samples of wine 
have been made of it. Its chief value will be as a resist- 
ant grafting stock, although its value for that purpose is 
not yet fullv established. 
11 



242 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

ViTis CANDICANS, Engelmaim (Mustang Grape of 
Texas). — I have not observed this vine in its native habi- 
tat, but am told that it is a strong grower, climbing to 
the tops of the tallest trees. Leaves deeply lobed, almost 
like those of a watermelon, downy above and below, 
though more so on the lower side ; growth long and 
straggling. Said to be fully resistant to phylloxera, but 
difficult to propagate from cuttings. 

All of these four species grow readily from seeds, as 
does the riparia. For grafting stock, my preference 
would be riparia and rupestris, as they are strong grow- 
ers, and seem to flourish in all kinds of soil. 

PROPAGATION. 

All that has been said in the first part of the book will 
also apply here, with perhaps some modifications to 
suit the soil and climate. Most of the vineyards of 
vinifera thus far planted, were started directly with cut- 
tings, set in early spring. As all the varieties of this 
grow very readily from cuttings, this seemed to be 
the easiest and cheapest mode, and was universally fol- 
lowed, although the cuttings used varied in length from 
fifteen to thirty inches, according to the practice followed 
by the different planters. A great many, however, begin 
to prefer rooted vines, started in a nursery, as they make 
a more even stand, and also produce sooner. 

I would not advise any one, however, with the ravages 
of the phylloxera in some parts of the State before his , 
eyes, to use anything but resistant vines for stocks, ** 
and to graft these afterwards, if desired, with the 
best vinifera varieties. For the purpose, I would obtain 
cuttings of either riparia or rupcsfris, from ten to 
twelve inches long, and plant them in the nursery for 
one year, wliere they will make good, stocky plants, to be 
transferred to the vineyard the next year, and grafted the 
second or third spring, according to their strength. The 



AND WINE MAKING. 243 

cost will but be a trifle more, as good cuttings of these 
varieties can be obtained, grown in the State, for about 
eight dollars per thousand, and the vines will pay for the 
additional trouble of grafting, by their increased yield 
and greater vigor. The seeds of the riparia and rupestris, 
if sown in nursery rows, will vegetate readily, and make 
good plants, although not so strong as the cuttings. 

THE NURSERY. 

For the nursery select a good, fertile piece of land, with 
deep, rather sandy soil, if it can be had. Plow deeply 
in fall or early winter, as soon as the first rains have 
fully saturated the soil, and plow again early in spring, 
just before planting. The deeper the ground is plowed, 
the better will it hold moisture, and I have found, by 
experience, that pulverizing the soil well, making it deep 
and mellow, and frequently stirring it during the sum- 
mer, to keep it porous, is more successful than irriga- 
tion, and raises better and more hardy plants. The cut- 
tings need uniform warmth as well as moisture, and irri- 
gation has a tendency to cool the ground at the base of the 
cuttings too much. These sudden changes from warm 
to cold, are anything but beneficial to the young plant 
in its most tender period. This treatment will apply to 
all cuttings, Asiatic or American, and also to seedlings. 
For the nursery I prefer the cuttings even shorter than 
usual, say between eight and ten inches long, as they 
can be planted perpendicularly, and will make strong- 
er roots at the base than longer cuttings, which will 
make numerous weak roots at every joint. Cuttings, as 
well as seeds, are generally planted in March or April, 
when the ground has become warm, and will work well. 
Cuttings can be made at any time during the winter, as 
soon as the wood is fully ripened, and kept and planted 
as described in the first part of this book. Chapter IIT. I 
have found it very convenient to make the rows three 



244 AMERICAiq- GEAPE GROWI^-G 

and a half feet apart, placing the cuttings but an inch 
apart in the rows. A horse cultivator, with the centre 
tooth taken out, is to be run on both sides of the rows, 
ridging up slightly to the cuttings, and this should be 
repeated once a week during May, June, and July. 

As grafting should be done in the vineyard, I will give 
the most practical method there. 



CHAPTER XLIX. 

THE VINEYARD.-LOCATION, SOIL, AND PREPARATION. 

Perhaps there is no other country which presents a 
greater diversity of soils and situations than this State 
does, and this is often seen in localities not more than 
fifty or a hundred feet apart. On the same hillside, a 
tough clay, commonly called '^'^ adobe" here, may change 
into Avhite alkali soil within a hundred feet, which in its 
turn may give place to loose, stony soil, and this again to 
red, volcanic soil, which contains a good deal of iron. The 
valleys of Northern California are subject to late frosts 
in early spring, and early frosts in fall, but even these gen- 
erally follow certain low streaks, where the soil is not so 
well drained ; so that one side of the valley may be com- 
paratively exempt from frosts, while the other suffers very 
frequently. The valleys have generally the richest and 
most friable soil, produce the heaviest crops, and they 
are also easier of cultivation ; w^hile the hillsides, with 
proper soil, will produce finer quality, though less in 
quantity, and are more secure from frost. 

On the hillsides, my choice would be the side of hills 
sloping towards the east and south, as they are more 
sheltered from destructive winds, and not so exposed to 
the afternoon sun, which is apt to scald the grapes. Of 
hillside soils, my first choice would be, especially for red 



AND WINE MAKING. 245 

wines, the red volcanic soil, or black soil mixed with sand 
and small stones. Such a soil will drain and work well 
without washing, is warm, and will give wines of deep 
color, body, and rich in tannin. Next to this would 
come the clay, or adobe soil, for, although difficult to 
work, and needing constant stirring in summer to keep 
the surface mellow, it is very fertile, and will produce 
wines of good quality in abundance, if well worked. My 
third choice would be a stony soil, loose and friable, 
which generally produces well also, after the vines have 
become established. The poorest of all our hill lands is the 
white, alkali coil, which does not seem to suit vines at all, 
as they grow very slowly; therefore I would not have any 
of this soil if I coi^ld help it. But, unfortunately, we 
find more or less of it in all locations, and can hardly 
avoid it altogether. The best we can do is, to look out 
that there is not too much of it. In choosing a location, 
the purchaser should also see that his soil is of sufficient 
depth, at least two or three feet above the bed rock, so 
that the roots of the vine can find moisture in our dry 
summers, which they can only do when the soil is deep 
enough. Large oaks, intermingled with mountain laurel 
and hazel undergrowth^ mixed v/ith hillside ferns, are 
generally indications of a soil Avell adapted to the grape. 
In the valleys, guard against frosty locations, which I 
would not have under any consideration. It is too dis- 
couraging to see the promise of a bountiful crop swept 
away by the frosts of a single night, and to live in con- 
stant dread that this may happen. 

Very steep hillsides, though they may produce good 
wines, are very difficult to cultivate, and liable to wash ; 
they should therefore also be avoided. 

PRIPARATION OF THE GROUND. 

Having first cleared the ground of all obstacles, stumps, 
trees, stones, etc., it should be plowed as deep as possi- 



246 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

ble with a good four-horse team and plow, following with 
a subsoil plow in the same furrow. What has been said 
on preparing the soil, in the first part of the book, will 
also apply here. The ground cannot be prepared too 
well ; what is worth doing at all, is worth doing well. 

For planting, the ground is generally laid off in two- 
acre blocks ; if the vines are planted eight by eight feet, 
the usual distance, the blocks contain forty-eight vines 
in the rows lengthwise by twenty-four vines crosswise, 
with alleys or avenues sixteen feet wide betv^een, 
making five hundred and seventy-six vines to the 
acre. Having harrowed and rolled the ground well, 
to give it a smooth surface, we are ready for 
marking. Small stakes of redwood, fifteen inches long 
by half an inch in diameter, are used for the purpose. 
Establish the four outside lines of the block first, by 
driving in stakes every eight feet, then stretch one 
line lengthwise, and another line across, with an active 
boy at each end to move the line to the next stake, 
one puts down the marks where the two lines cross each 
other. If you have a line at each side of the block, 
and another man, the vv^ork can be done still quicker, as 
two rows can be marked at the same time. 

Of course, the distance between the vines can be 
changed ad liUtu7n, but I find eight feet a very conven- 
ient distance, giving ample room for cultivation without 
crowding the vines too much. 

We can now proceed to planting. As this has already 
been described in the first part of the book, I need not 
dwell on it very long. Should cuttings, however, be 
planted, instead of rooted vines, I would advise planting 
with a spade instead of a crowbar, as is very often done. 
The iron bar may answer in sandy soil, where the sand 
will naturally settle around the base of the cutting with 
the first rain. But in soils of any consistency, the spade 
is decidedly better, and takes but little more time. Throw 



AND WINE MAKING. 247 

out the soil with the spade to the depth you wish to 
plant, then place the cutting down in the hole, throw 
in fine soil, and firm it well to the base of the cutting 
with the foot, letting the upper end come out at the stake, 
leaving one or two eyes above the surface ; then fill up 
the hole to the top, leaving a small mound around the 
upper bud. 



CHAPTEK L. 

THE VINEYARD.— SELECTION OF VARIETIES. 

As remarked, before, I would not run the risk of 
planting a vineyard with varieties of the Vinifera, even 
in districts not as yet affected by phylloxera. This 
scourge, sooner or later, will be carried all over the 
State, and make itself felt everywhere, except perhaps 
in those districts which have a sandy soil, or which can 
be inundated. But even on such soils, I firmly believe 
that the little additional cost of the plants of resistant 
stocks and the grafting will be doubly repaid by the 
increased vigor of the vines and their greater produc- 
tiveness, a fact which is already well established in 
France. 

But whether you plant Vinifera cuttings or resistant 
stocks for grafting afterwards, or for immediate bearing, 
plant and graft none but the best varieties, those which 
will make such wines, or yield such raisins or fruit as 
will find a ready and remunerative market. Our motto 
should be " Excelsior !" We can make good wines, 
wines that will rank with any of the world's best pro- 
ducts, if we have the suitable material and manage it 
properly and skilfully. The depression in the markets 
only a few short years ago, was caused mainly by the 



248 AMERICAN" GEAPE GROWING 

fact that the great bulk of Aviues were made from the 
Mission grape, many of them poorly made and handled 
carelessly; at that time wines went a-begging at ten to 
twelve cents per gallon, and gra23es could hardly find 
buyers at eight and ten dollars per ton. These facts 
ought to show us that our wines, to gain and secure a 
world-wide market, and even to take the place of for- 
eign importations in this country, must be of a quality 
that need not shun competition anywhere. That we 
have the material to do this, no one can doubt who has 
seen and tested some of the really choice wines already 
produced, made by some of our best vintners in differ- 
ent sections of the State. But the great trouble is now, 
that we have not enough of these really choice wines to 
supply one-tenth of the demand for them, and that our 
dealers are forced to blend the finer wines with the low 
grades, in order to get rid of the inferior stock at all. 
The grower should consider in the first place, that those 
who buy his grapes must spend the same amount for labor 
to make and handle a poor product, that it takes the same 
amount of casks and apparatus to make and keep the 
wine, that it is more difficult to handle, and that it 
costs the same amount _ of freight to send a gallon of 
poor or inferior wine to the Eastern markets that it 
does for good. It takes a greater amount of labor to sell it 
even at half price; for it is an old saying, that " good wine 
needs no bush," and the grower would perhaps not cen- 
sure the dealer so much for what is mostly his own fault. 
Let us therefore all strive to plant only the best varieties, 
suited to our soil and locality. Our red volcanic soils 
are better adapted to the production of choice red wines, 
as are most of our adobe lands, than the valleys, which 
will make lighter colored and milder wines, and are 
therefore better suited for the production of white wines 
than of red. 

That the selection of varieties for such a diversity of 



AND WINE MAKING. 249 

soils and of climate must yet be somewhat of an experi- 
ment, is self-evident. If, therefore, there are vineyards 
already established in one's immediate neighborhood, it 
will be best to examine them, see what succeeds best 
there, and choose accordingly. But if there is no such 
' guide, or the neighbors cultivate only the common 
varieties, it will pay one to go to some location similar 
to his, where there is a good, careful grower, when 
the grapes are ripe, examine them, and get his opinion 
as to their value. Two of the best places in the State, 
perhaps, for this purpose, are the vineyards of Mr. H. 
W. Crabb, at Oakville, Napa Co., and the vineyards 
and cellars of Mr. Chas. Lefranc, at San Jose, Santa 
Clara Co. The first has a collectijon of over three hun- 
dred varieties, perhaps the largest in the State, Mr. C. is 
a skilful wine maker, and a thoroughly practical man, 
who takes great pains to keep his varieties true to name. 
Mr. Lefranc has taken great pains in improving and 
growing the best French varieties, and has given the 
business close attention. Mr. G. Groezinger, at Yount- 
ville, Napa Co., is also a very painstaking and intelligent 
wine grower, cultivating choice varieties. The following 
list is the result of observations made mostly in their 
vineyards. It comprises only a small number of the 
very best, taking both high quality and productiveness 
into consideration, and from looking carefully over the 
selections of others, as well as from personal experience 
with some of the varieties. There are many more which 
, may be as valuable, but have not been as fully tried as 
■ these. These are given separately, as "promising well." 
I have also given their many synonyms by which they 
are distributed and known in different parts of the 
State, as far as I have been able to find them. It would 
lead too far in a work of this condensed character to 
give their full descriptions. These can be found in other 
and larger French and German works, where they are 



250 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIKG 

also completely illustrated. I have only given the gen- 
eral characteristics of the fruit and its quality for wine. 

FOR RED WINE. 

Black Burgundy. — Syn. Petite Pinot. Vine very 
hardy, a compact and moderate grower, very productive. 
Bunch medium, compact; berry below medium, oblong, 
black, juicy, sweet. Makes a dark-red wine of fine fla- 
vor, very soft and full. 

Gamay McGuey. — Synonyms. Tinto, Rouge de Can- 
tal. Rather slender grower, very productive. Bunch 
small, compact; berry black, very juicy, with a sprightly 
purple juice. Makes a first-class claret. 

Grosse Blaue. — Vigorous and productive. Bunch 
medium, compact; berry medium, oblong, black, juicy, 
spicy. Makes a fine dark-red wine. 

Lenoir. — Syns. Jacques, Black Spanish, Devereaux, 
American, with resistant roots, vigorous and healthy 
foliage, productive. Bunch long and loose; berry small, 
round, black, with deep purple juice. Makes a very 
dark-colored wine of good quality, but especially valuable 
for blending with and coloring other wines. 

ZiNPANDEL. — Syns. Zinfindel, Zierfahndel. Per- 
haps the best known and most generally planted of all 
our red -wine grapes. Vine a good grower and produc- 
tive, but varies very much in different soils, lacking 
color ii) a great many, but making a fine sprightly claret 
in good locations, if well handled. Bunch large and 
heavy, shouldered; berry round, medium, black, very 
juicy, but ripening unevenly, and requires to hang long, 
as it contains a great deal of acid. A blend with a small 
quantity of Lenoir will improve it greatly, giving it a 
deeper color and a fuller taste. 



AND WIN-E MAKING. 251 

VARIETffiS PROMISING WELL. 

Black Farmot. — Vine yigorons and productive. 
Bunch small, very compact, shouldered; berry oblong, 
medium, juicy, with black-purple juice. Not tried for 
wine. 

Black Dischia.— Syns. Black Pinot, Blane Claev- 
ner, Black Merlat, Chanche Noh\ A good grower and 
moderate bearer. Bunch medium, compact, shouldered; 
berry below medium, oblong, black, of high character, but 
hardly productive enough, and the wine lacks color. 

Mataeo.— Syn. Balsac, Upright Burgundy. A good 
grower, and hardy, also very productive. Bunch heavy, 
compact; berry medium, black, with blue bloom; makes 
a fair red wine, but not of first quality nor very deep 
color. 

Charbono. — Syn. Charbonneau. Vine very produc- 
tive and hardy. Bunch long, shouldered, of peculiar 
shape; berry medium, moderately juicy, but decidedly 
flat and coarse in taste. Makes a very dark red wine, 
and plenty of it, but of second quality; only valuable for 
blending and coloring, for which purpose I think the 
Lenoir far more valuable, and a much better wine. 

Oariqnake. — Syn. Crignane. Similar to Mataro in 
productiveness and quality; will also make a good red 
wine, though hardly first class. 

Grenache. — Vine very productive; especially adapted 
to poor soils. Bunch heavy and compact; berry rather 
small. Makes a fair red wine, but hardly of the highest 
quality. 

Meunier. — Syns. Miller's Burgundy. Franc Pinot. 
Vine a slender grower, fair bearer. Bunch small, com- 
pact; berry small, black, juicy. Makes a fine red wine. 



252 AMEKICAN" GRAPE 'GROWING 

FOR WHITE WINE. 

Chauche Gris. — Syns. Gray Riessling, Gray Dischia, 
Gray Claevner, Gray Pinot, Rulander. Vine a vigorous 
grower, very productive. Bunch medium, very compact, 
shouldered; berry small, oblong, of a peculiar gray color, 
very sprightly, juicy. Makes a very fine white wine, 
sprightly and high flavored, of the first quality and de- 
cided character; valuable by itself, and peculiarly suited 
to impart character to other white wines. 

Frankek Eiessling. — Syns. Sylvaner, Oesterreicher. 
Vine thrifty and productive. Bunch medium, compact, 
shouldered; berry rather small, very juicy, high flavored, 
with an agreeable mingling of acid and sweet. Makes a 
fine wine of high character, and a good deal of it. 

Johannisberg Riessling. — Syns. True Riessling, 
Schloss Johannisberg. This grape and its quality are 
too well known to need laudation. It makes one of the 
finest of our wines, and may be called the standard of 
excellence in white wines. Vine vigorous, moderately 
productive with long pruning. Bunch small, compact; 
berry small, greenish-yellow, with a peculiar gray dot on 
the sunny side. 

Orleans Riesslikg. — This is somewhat similar to the 
Franken Riessling, a very heavy bearer and vigorous vine, 
while many rate its wine higher than that of the Franken. 
It is a very desirable variety. 

Kleinberger. — Also a variety of Riessling, valued 
very highly in Sonoma Valley on account of its general 
productiveness, vigor, and the uniform good quality of 
its wine. 

Sauvignon" Vert.— Syns. Green Sauvignon, Chab- 
lis. This is the celebrated Sauterne grape of France, and 
it succeeds admirably here ; it is a very heavy bearer, 
its wine is very pure in taste, yet sprightly, and is one 



a:n^d wine making. 253 

of our best white-wine grapes. Buncli above medium, 
long, rather loose; berry rather small, greenish white, 
very juicy and sprightly. 

Semillion. — This is another of the famous white- 
wine grapes of France. Vine vigorous, productive ; 
bunch compact, shouldered; berry full, medium, shghtl^; 
oblong, very juicy and sprightly. 

Seedless Sultana. — This is perhaps the most i3rofit- 
able of all white-wine grapes, as it is an enormous bearer 
with long pruning, a vigorous grower; has a very heavy 
bunch, and ripens evenly. Add to this that it has no 
seeds, consequently j-ields a large amount of must, and 
that it makes an excellent wine of a greenish-white color, 
and we cannot wonder that it is planted extensively by 
all who appreciate these qualitifes. With Mr. R. B. 
Blowers, of Woodland, who first planted it for raisins, 
it produced seventeen tons to the acre last year, wdiich, 
as the unusual rains interfered with curing them for 
raisins, the wiue-makers purchased readily at thirty-two 
dollars per ton; and Mr. Crabb, who has made wine of it 
for several years, has this year secured the whole crop 
of that neighborhood at thirty dollars per ton. Bunch 
large and heavy, shouldered; berry small, round, golden 
yellow, without seeds, and with a delicate pure taste and 
flavor. The wine made from it by Mr. Crabb was one of 
the best on exhibition among the white wines exhibited 
at the Grape Growers' Convention, at Dashaway Hall. 

Traminer. — This is one of the most famous wine 
grapes of the Palatinate and the Rhine, and has fur- 
nished some of the noblest wines made in this State. It 
is a rather delicate grower, but an abundant bearer. 
Bunch small, shouldered ; berry small, reddish-lilac, 
sweet, spicy, and high flavored, and rich in sugar. It 
makes a wine of great body, smooth, rich, and high fla- 
vored. 



254 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

Pedro Ximekes. — Syn. Chasselas de Foy. The cel- 
ebrated Sherry grape of Spain, which makes a fine white 
wine of high character here. Bunch long, loose, not 
shouldered; berry full, medium, greenish-yellow, juicy, 
and high flavored, containing a good deal of tannin; 
ripens rather late. 

West's Prolific. — The origin of this grape is un- 
known; it was first cultivated by Mr. George West, at 
Stockton. It is an enormous bearer, somewhat resem- 
bling the foregoing, but heavier in its bunch ; berry 
somewhat smaller and more delicate. Makes a very fine 
white wine, and an excellent, delicately-flavored brandy. 

To these, which are all of the first quality for white 
wines, I would add several varieties of Chasselas, on ac- 
count of their regular productiveness and the uniformly 
fair quality of their wines, which are very mild and 
agreeable, though not of the highest character. 

Chasselas Fontainebleau. — Syns. Gutedel, Royal 
Muscadine. This is rather a delicate, straggling grower, 
but a very uniform and prolific bearer, while its fruit is 
always even. Bunch medium, shouldered ; berry me- 
dium, round, golden yellow, with sometimes a brownish 
tinge in the sun. The ''Gutedel" of Messrs. Gundlach 
& Co. has already established quite a reputation, and is 
uniformly appreciated as a delicate, pleasant wine. 

Chasselas Violette. — Syn. Chasselas Eouge. A 
stronger grower than the foregoing, with peculiar, brown- 
ish foliage, and has also the peculiarity that the young 
fruit assumes a violet tinge when but half grown, being 
darker then than when it is fully ripe; very productive. 
Bunch long, rather loose, shouldered; berry medium, 
round, pale red or lilac,* sweet and good. Makes a rather 
richer and higher flavored wine than the foregoing. 

Victoria Chasselas. — Syns. Red Chasselas, Queen 
Victoria, Bakator, Barbaroux. A very estimable grape, 



AND WINE MAKING. 255 

a short-jointed, stocky grower, especially adapted to 
stool training, and a heavy bearer of very large bunches. 
Bunch very large, often weighing six pounds, compact, 
and shouldered; berry medium, rounds red, with beauti- 
ful lilac bloom, juicy, high flavored, and spicy, making a 
very good white wine. 

To those who admire a Muscatelle flavor, the small 
German Muscatelle, or Frontignan, will be acceptable, as 
it is a good bearer of medium-sized bunches, wdiich make 
a heavy, yet sprightly wine, with a delicate Muscat or 
Frontignan flavor, which makes it a favorite with many. 

VARIETIES PROMISING WELL. 

Marsann'E. — A beautiful grower and heavy bearer of 
fruit which somewliat resembles the ^auvignon Vert, and 
is of a very high character, promising well for a delicate 
wine. 

Cadillac. — Good grower and bearer. Bunch long 
and loose; berry medium, round. Is one of the cele- 
brated wine grapes of France, aud the few samples made 
here seem to sustain its European reputation. 

La Folle Blanche. — Said to be an enormous bearer, 
hence its name, *' the Crazy." Good wine has been made 
of it in this State, and in France it is famous for pro- 
ducing the finest flavored and most delicate brandy. 

Burger. — Syns. Berger, Putzscheere. An old variety 
in this State, an enormous bearer of very heavy bunches, 
but making a very light, acid wine in the valley lands of 
the north, while the hillsides afford a better product. In 
the south, near Los Angeles, very good wine has been 
made from it by Messrs. Stern and Rose, and others. It 
seems to be well adapted there; in the north I would 
plant it only in warm locations and on the hillsides. It 
is a neutral wine, of very little character, but useful for 
blending on account of its agreeable acid and smooth- 
ness. I do not see any reason why those who can have 



256 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

the Sultana, wbicli will bear the same quantity and give 
much better quality, should plant the Burger. 

Among the American varieties promising highly for 
white wine, the Herbemont, or Wurren, is perhaps the 
first. Wine has been made from it here, w^hich is very 
fine, of a pale straw-color, and fine flavor. The vine 
grows vigorously, has beautiful foliage, and endures all 
the vicissitudes of our hot summers. It is the only va- 
riety in the vineyards under my charge which has not 
suffered in the least from the three hot days in June, 
which caused couliwe in all others. As it is also fully 
resistant to phylloxera, it promises to be a valuable ac- 
quisition to this State, as it has already become in 
France, where its wine ranks high. For a full descrip- 
tion of it, I refer the reader to the first part of the book. 

I will add here, that all the varieties of Vifis cestivalis 
promise well here; they have splendid foliage, which ad- 
mirably withstands the sun and drouth, and also the at- 
tacks of the thrip, to which the more delicate leaves of 
the varieties of V. vinifera succumb. Norton's Virginia, 
at Fresno, with Mr. Eisen, has splendid foliage, and also 
bears well with long pruning, and here in our vineyards 
the Cynthiana, Cunningham, Rulander, and Dunn, are 
growing finely, though not old enough to bear fruit as 
yet. The improved varieties of V. riparia, however, 
seem to lose their leaves, and the fruit is smaller than 
in Missouri; they may not, therefore, be valuable for any 
other purpose than for grafting stocks. I can report on 
them further next year, when I shall have a number of 
varieties in bearing. 

In obtaining cuttings or vines, the purchaser should 
be especially careful to procure them of reliable men. 
There is such confusion existing here in the nomencla- 
ture of vines, that but very few know what they really 
have, and as a great many vineyards are grievously mixed, 
it is very difficult indeed to obtain varieties true to name. 



AN"D WliN'E maki:n"g. 257 

It will be a herculean tnsk to bring order out of this chaos, 
and if our State Viticultural Commission would apply a 
part of their efforts earnestly to this, they would do the 
public a greater benefit than by constantly preaching 
French and other outlandish practices and theories which 
may prove impraifticable here. 

The foregoing are but a few of the varieties cultivated 
here, and no doubt the near future will bring a number 
of others into notice that may be fully as valuable. 
Among these the Trousseau promises well for making a 
valuable, dark-colored wine, especially useful to be man- 
ufactured into Port. The varieties just named and de- 
scribed are specially adapted to make fine, dry red and 
white wines, which, in my opinion, will be the leading 
interest in grape culture in this State. 

The question, whether to plant more red or white-wine 
grapes, is one that may be difficult to answer. The de- 
mand at present seems to be very large for clarets, larger 
than for white wines. But, on the other hand, the 
plantings of red-wine grapes, especially of Zinfandel, 
have been much more numerous tlian those of choice 
white varieties. It is certain that there is a class of con- 
sumers who prefer choice hocks and white wines to clar- 
ets, and they are generally willing to pay a good price. 
When the general tendency seems to be to plant red-wine 
grapes, surely some should make white wines to meet the 
demand for them which already exists, and is sure to in- 
crease. Besides, we have a choicer selection of white 
wines and white-wine grapes than of red, and would 
make a comparatively better article of them to-day than 
of red wines. My advice would be to plant what suits 
your soiL If it is not red, volcanic soil, or adobe, which 
will give good color, plant mostly red grapes. If the 
soil is loose, or sandy, plant white-wine grapes. If the 
wines you make are good, they will sell readily, whether 
they are red or white. 



258 AMERICAN CxRAPE GROWING 

CHAPTER LI. 

CULTIVATION, TRAINING, AND GRAFTING. 

During the first summer after planting, the young 
vines will need no further attention than frequent stir- 
ring of the soil by plowing, cultivating, and hoeing. 
Where they are not irrigated, they will make but slow 
growth the first summer, as this season is without rain, 
from the beginning or middle of May until September, 
and sometimes even longer. Keep the surface of the soil 
loose and mellow, it is the only way to retain moisture in 
the soil and keep the plants alive and growing. The 
vine will become established and firmly rooted the first 
summer, and its progress will be rapid the second year. 
Cut back to two buds of the young growth, from wliich 
to start a strong shoot to form the basis of the future 
vine. Plowing is the operation next in order. The 
common practice has been to commence in the middle of 
the row, with a good team and a two-horse plow. Plow 
a good, deep furrow in the centre of the row, then return 
in the row, plowing the second furrow towards the first, 
and a third furrow tow^ards the first from the other side, 
so as throw the soil towards the middle and from the 
vines. This is as near as you can come to the vines with 
two horses, and a man with a single horse walking in 
the furrow finishes up the row close to the vines, al- 
ways plowing the ground away from the vines, and to- 
wards the middle. A good, careful man can come 
wuthin a few inches of the vine and leave but a small 
strip for the hoe. Hoeing comes next, and we use 
either two-pronged hoes, the old German implement, or 
spading forks, with which the ground is thoroughly 
loosened and stirred around the vine. Then comes cross- 
plowing, which is done by plowing across the former fur- 
rows at right angles, first throwing a shallow furrow with 



AND WINE MAKING. 259 

a one-liorse plow towards the vine, on each side of the 
row, w^hich is followed by one somewhat deeper, still with 
a one-horse plow, which is followed by a two-horse plow 
until the centre of the space is finished. This leaves the 
vines in a bed of mellow earth around them, and the 
ground is still more mellowed by harrowing across with 
an iron harrow, wide enough to take the row pretty close 
to the vines, to break the lumps and destroy the weeds. 
The Acme harrow is best for this purpose. Commence 
with these operations as soon as the ground is dry enough 
to work well, in spring. If the winter is as favorable as 
the two last have been, most of these operations can be 
performed during the winter months, which is also a 
good time to plant rooted vines, make cuttings, etc. 
There is a prejudice against planting cuttings in the 
vineyard during winter, as our old practitioners say that 
the cuttings will rot in the cool, damp soil, and will not 
start as freely as if planted in March or April, when 
the ground is warmer. This sounds plausible, and as I 
have had mostly rooted vines to plant, which kept me 
busy all winter, I have not been able to test it practi- 
cally. I know, however, that the young vines planted 
in winter start readily early in spring, and it w^ould seem 
that the same theory would apply to cuttings. 

The above is the most common way of plowing in 
vogue all through this section. Great improvements 
have been made lately, however, by gang plows, invented 
for vineyard use. I will describe one of them, invented 
by a gentleman in Napa Co., this State. It consists 
of an iron frame on two low wheels, and has a tongue to 
guide it, as have all gang plows. The iron frame consists 
of five strong iron bars, running lengthwise, connected by 
a cross-bar behind. To these bars, w^hich are about a fur- 
row's breadth apart, two plowshares are attached by iron 
clamps, taking the two centre furrows first, throwing the 
ground together in the middle. When a piece is thus 



260 AMERICAN^ GRAPE GROWING 

finished, the plows are attached to the next two bars, and 
take the next two furrows. When this is done, the 
plows are again set out further, either by crooked 
shanks, bringing them a furrow closer to the vines, or 
by a square attachment to the frame. I prefer the latter, 
especially among young vines. Of course, the plows must 
be one right-hand share and a left-hand one. In loose soil, 
in our valleys, two horses can pull the machine, but in 
heavy soil, and on hillsides, it takes four to do good 
work. The driver rides on the plow, behind the horses, 
and regulates the depth of the furrow by a lever, like a 
brake on a wagon, by which he can lift the plow entirely 
out of the ground when he turns at the end. There 
should be abundance of room at the ends of the rows, to 
turn without damaging the vines. 

In cross-plowing, the shares are reversed on the frame, 
so as to throw the ground to the vines, and the furrows 
next to the vines are taken first. After the first two 
plowings, it can also be converted, in tough, consistent 
soils, into a cultivator, by attaching four shares and not 
plowing so deep. It saves a great deal of labor, as it 
does double the work of a common two-horse plow, 
needs but one driver, and does the work better. 

Several similar plows have since been invented, which 
claim to do better and more work; but, so far as I know, 
none have been fully completed. They will plow about 
seven acres a day, with two shares attached, and we 
have cultivated an average of seventeen acres a day with 
' one man and four horses when four shares were used. 

Cultivation during the summer is generally done with 
sulky cultivators, with five teeth, to make the ground 
loose and mellow and keep down the weeds, using com- 
mon field hoes around the vines as often as necessary. 
As the system of planting and training admits of cultiva- 
ting in both directions, it makes it very easy to keep the 
ground clean and mellow, especially as the dry weather 



AND WINE MAKING. 261 

stops the growth of weeds. The vines do not materially 
need a support the second summer, especially if they are 
of varieties of stock resistant to phylloxera, to be grafted 
next spring. They may be allov/ed to trail on the ground, 
and as cultivation is generally finished by the first of 
August, they will not interfere much with it. 

The third summer we expect to train our vines and 
give them the first start of a head or top. If the young 
vine is a Vinifera, or other variety, which is to be a direct 
producer, and has made a stocky growth of three feet, 
it is pruned to one cane of eighteen inches or two feet, 
as may suit the habits of the vine and the fancy of the 
cultivator. A stake of red-wood should then be pro- 
vided for support, the usual length is four feet, by an 
inch and a half in diameter, though many prefer stakes 
five and even six feet long. A four-foot stake will give 
from two feet six inches to two feet nine inches above 
ground, which is high enough for most varieties if the 
head is formed at eighteen inches above the ground. 
These stakes can either be purchased in bolts, at about 
twelve dollars per cord, and split by the vintner, or they 
can be had sawed, at seventeen dollars per thousand. 
If long stakes are used, they should also be thicker, and 
will cost more in proportion. In many vineyards they 
dispense with stakes altogether, but I think this is very 
slovenly culture, and not to be recommended. A vine, 
if worth anything at all, is worth a stake ; it is more 
convenient in cultivating, gives a support to the vine 
which is very much needed, and will pay the additional 
cost in less than two years by the increased yield and 
better quality of the fruit. The stakes are pointed at 
one end and driven, by a mallet or sledge, on the south 
west side of the vine, as our prevailing winds are from 
that side, and by tieing to that side the vine is also 
shaded from the afternoon sun. The tieing is done 
either with willow twigs, of which every vintner should 



262 AMERICAN" GRAPE GROWING 

raise a supply, and which make the best and most dura- 
ble tie, or yrith grape twine. The New Zealand Flax 
(Phormium tenax), makes an excellent tie, and can be 
grown for that purpose in swampy places. The Agricul- 
tural Department of the State University has sent out^ 
quite a number of the plants, and its leaves, torn into 
strips, make a very strong and flexible material for tieing. 



GRAFTING THE VINES. 

If resistant stocks were planted, they will be strong 
enough for grafting now. This operation may be com- 
menced here in February, and carried on into May, pro- 
vided the cions are kept dormant and in good condition. 
The common cleft graft, as illustrated in the first part of 
this book, on page 23, I still consider the simplest, best, 
and most successful. To do it most conveniently and 
quickly, however, I think it needs a force of five men, 
each to do his own particular share of the work. It 
can best be done after the first hoeing, when the ground 
can be taken away from the collar of the vine, leaving 
it ready for the operation. One man now cuts the 
stocks with sharp pruning shears (page 119), keeping 
the blade of the shears on the upper side, and cutting 
square across. The cut should be made at a smooth 
place, about an inch and a half above a knot or joint, 
and either at the surface of the ground or just below it. 
Then make a longitudinal cut in the stock, also with the 
shears, cutting straight downwards, and also with the 
blade of the shears kept on top, so as not to bruise the 
bark. Let another man cut the cions, as figured on page 
23, making a long, sloping, smooth wedge, thinner on 
one side than on the other. Hand No. 3 then inserts 
the cions, which he can do in stocks of that size without 
a wedge or any other implement, pushing the cion down 



AND WINE MAKING. 263 

SO that it fits nicely the inner bark of the cion to the 
inner bark of the stocl^, and on the upjjer side of the 
latter. Hand No. 4 follows with tying material; bass- 
wood bark or rice straw are very suitable, if kept moist. 
Hand No. 5 follows with a hoe, and pulls fine, pulverized 
earth around the junction, up to the top of the cion, to 
keep off the sun and hold the moisture. It will be 
well to drive a stake on the southwest side of the vine 
immediately after grafting, say two to three inches from 
it, to which the young shoots, when they appear, can be 
tied from time to time during the summer; it will also 
serve to shade and protect the graft. If suckers of the wild 
stock appear, they should be rubbed off, taking care not 
to disturb the cion, and in hoeing and plowing after- 
wards, the same care should be exercised. After-cultiva- 
tion IS the same as with the other vines. If the graft 
grows vigorously, it may be pinched when eighteen inches 
high; this will serve to start the laterals, from which tlie 
head of the vine may be formed the next spring, and also 
to make the vine more stocky and ripen the lower buds. 

In this manner, by dividing the labor, grafting will be 
performed quicker and better; as each man handles but 
one tool, and as each of the operations is very simple m- 
deed, he will soon learn to do his part well, if he has but 
ordinary intelligence and dexterity. I am sure that five 
men, thus organized, can easily graft five thousand vines 
per day, or one thousand each. Of course, care should 
be taken that the cions are not exposed. They can be 
carried in a tin can or pail, with the wedge downwards, 
in moist saw-dust. If everything is done well, ninety per 
cent, will grow, and the few which fail may be grafted 
again next season. If any of the stocks are too small, 
leave them until next season. They should be at least 
two-thirds of an inch in diameter to graft well, while an 
inch to an inch and a quarter is a still better size. 

There are a great many other methods, such as the so 



2G4 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

called English cleft, or whip graft, saddle grafting, graft- 
ing by approach, etc. It is not my object to give an 
elaborate treatise upon grafting, but to give the most 
simple and practical method by which large vineyards can 
be grafted with the least labor and cost, as well as with 
the greatest assurance of success, and for which common 
field hands, with ordinary intelligence and skill, can be 
used. All the more complicated methods, as well as 
grafting in the shop and setting out the grafts, I con- 
sider as little better than impractical nuisances, not 
adapted to the requirements of the practical vineyardist. 

With this method little or no time will be lost, for we 
do not expect much fruit the third summer, and the 
graft will make nearly, if not quite, as much growth as 
a shoot from the original vine would have done. 

Vines which were not grafted, but tied to the stake 
and pruned as described, will push out strong shoots 
from the upper buds. These are left, either two or three, 
to form the future head of the vine. If the growth is 
strong, each of these shoots will bear a few bunches of 
grapes, so that the crop, the third summer, will some- 
times be from one to two tons of grapes to the acre, 
enough to pay for staking and cultivation. In the south- 
ern part of the State, where vineyards are irrigated, there 
are instances on record of two to three tons of grapes 
even the second summer; but here in the north, where 
we do not irrigate, it generally takes four years before 
much of a crop can be obtained, nor is it judicious to let 
the vines bear too early, as it exhausts and debilitates 
them. To form a good head, all the lower shoots should 
be rubbed off as soon as they appear, and only two or 
three of the upper shoots * be left, according to the 
strength of the vine. 

The following winter, if the stool or head pruning, 
which is now most generally followed, is to be adopted, 
we usually cut back these shoots to two or three buds 



AKD WINE MAKING. 265 

each, always prnniiig to an outward bud, so that the 
upper shoot, which will be the strongest, will grow out- 
ward, as the object is to train the vine in the shape of 
a hollow shrub, with as much light and air in the centre 
as possible. This mode of training has been the uni- 
versal one, and seems to be specially adapted to the Mis- 
sion vine and some other varieties: Zinfandel, Victoria, 
Chasselas, Malvaisia, and other short, stocky growers, 
all produce well with it, and it is certainly very con- 
venient and easy. If our vine has three shoots, or 
branches, and is pruned to three spurs of two buds each, 
these will give us six shoots, enough to form the future 
head. In June, in this part of the State, the young 
shoots are generally twelve to eighteen inches long. The 
vine is then suckered, as it is commonly called, which 
consists in rubbing off all barren and weak shoots, all 
that may appear from the bottom and the stem of the 
vine, and also all shoots that show a tendency to crowd 
the head. This is also a good time to pinch the tips of 
the remaining shoots, to make them more stocky and 
shade the fruit better, as they will then throw out lateral 
branches. I know that many consider this latter opera- 
tion superfluous, and even injurious, but I have found it 
very advantageous, especially as a guard against our 
heavy winds, which have more power on the long and 
straggling unchecked shoots, the vine balances much bet- 
ter, and the fruit is less exposed to sun-scald. It is dif- 
ferent in its effects from the cutting of the ripening 
wood in August, which is absolutely injurious, checking 
the growth, and robbing the vine of its leaves when they 
are most needed to perfect and ripen the crop. For all 
the Riessling varieties, the Chasselas Fontainebleau, Vio- 
let Chasselas, Seedless Sultana, and all those which make 
longer grov/th of cane, especially the varieties of V. ces- 
tivcdis, I think a different mode of training should be 
followed, and the general experience of grape growers 
12 



266 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

points that way. With those I would form the head 
from twelve to eighteen inches from the ground the third 
summer. In next winter's pruning, if they have made 
three strong shoots, cut back each of them to three 
buds, from which we can expect at least six strong, 
healthy shoots. In pruning, the fourth winter, cut tlie 
three strongest of these, one from each branch of the 
vine, back to a short cane, say eighteen inches, and the 
others to spurs of two buds each. These canes a^e tied 
over to the stake with a strong band of willow, and will 
bear more and better fruit than if cut back to short 
spurs. At the next pruning these old arms may be left, 
if they are healthy and sound, and the strongest of their 
branches be cut back to spurs of two buds, while the 
weak shoots are taken out altogether, or, if they are 
deficient, they may be cut out and a new cane from the 
lower spurs tied in their place. This method of train- 
ing allows cultivation both ways, and has been so suc- 
cessful wherever tried, that the use of stakes becomes 
more general everywhere. I have more than doubled 
the product of an old piece of Chasselas and Muscatelle, 
which had been trained to low heads without stakes, by 
training them in this way, and also improved the quality, 
as under the former treatment the long canes were blown 
over by the wind, and the fruit exposed to the sun. 

In stool training the vines are cut back again to spurs 
the next winter, cutting back to the strongest shoots, 
and taking out the weaker ones. Of course in this, as 
in all systems of pruning, due attention must be paid 
to the strength of the vine, and the spurs may vary 
from four to twelve, or even sixteen, according to its 
vigor. 

Cultivation is essentially the same as in the first years, 
only, as the vines become stronger and more branched, 
especially after pruning, great care must be taken not 
to break and tear the vines in plowing. Here, again, 



AND WINE MAKING. 267 

the gang plows are of great advantage, as the plows can 
be so arranged as to run close to the yines without 
breaking the spurs or stakes. 

J DISEASES AND INSECTS. 

Of diseases we do not suSer yery much here, although 
mildew {Oiclium), black knot, red leaf— also called Span- 
ish Measles, which is the same disease, I think, called 
Anthracnose in France, and " Pocken des Weinstocks " in 
Germany, and Coulure, or imperfect setting of the young 
fruit, prevail to a certain extent. The best remedy 
against mildew is pulverized sulphur, dusted on the 
yines through a dredge with a fine wire screen. It is 
generally applied twice in the season, in June and July, 
on calm mornings, when a good/ active hand can sul- 
phur about five acres in half a day. About two pounds 
to the acre is sufficient, and as it also is a good fertilizer, 
it will pay to apply it abundantly, though not too late in 
the season, as it will impart its taste to the wine. 

Black Knot, also called Grape Cancer by some, is a 
black, warty excrescence, which appears on the stems of 
the vine and also on its branches. Its main causes are 
stagnation of sap, caused by external injuries, excessive 
pruning, or frost. Vineyards judiciously pruned, and 
not subject to frost, will suffer but little from this dis- 
ease. With me it has almost entirely disappeared, though 
it was formerly yery frequent, when strong yines, with a 
good growth of cane fifteen feet long, were barbarously 
cut back to five spurs of two buds each every year. Any 
one who prunes his vines so unreasonably, should be 
punished by having tlie Black Knot to teach him better 
sense. 

Where the young growth of a vineyard has been en- 
tirely killed by a sudden frost when it was in an imma- 
ture state, so that the vine has no outlet for its flow of 



268 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

sap, they may sometimes be saved by grafting, when the 
cion will take up what would otherwise stagnate. But 
if the reader will take my advice, he will not plant a 
vineyard in a frosty location, as *^an ounce of prevention 
is better than a pound of cure." 

'' Ooulure," or imperfect setting of the fruit, follows 
sudden changes in the weather, and has done much 
damage this year, when cold, damp, foggy weather was 
followed by hot days, when a hot wind blew from the 
north for nearly three days and nights, early in June; 
the vines, whish were in bloom at that time, did not set 
more than half a crop, while those which bloomed later 
suffered comparatively but little damage. Some varie- 
ties, such as the Malbec, and others of that class, seem 
to suffer almost constantly from it, and the best preven- 
tive is, not to plant such kinds. I know of no remedy 
which could be applied, and fortunately it is of rare 
occurrence here. 

Red Leaf, or Spanish Measles. This will prove identi- 
cal, I think, with the disease the French call Antliracnose. 
It generally appears in midsummer, when the fruit is 
but half grown. The leaves of the vine show red spots, 
finally become red altogether, and drop off. The young 
fruit becomes discolored, first grayish, then shrivels up, 
and turns black. Very often only a certain branch of the 
vine is affected, while all the others are healthy; a vine 
may have it one summer and be entirely free from it the 
next. It is most destructive on the Mission grape, al- 
though it attacks all varieties more or less. It has never 
been very destructive as yet. An application of sulphate 
of iron in solution is recommended as a remedy, applied 
in spring; some also recommend sulphur, but I can see 
no benefit from the latter. 

Among the insects injurious to the vine, found in this 
State, the most formidable certainly is tlie phylloxera, 
and it has already made serious inroads upon this in- 



AND WINE MAKING. 269 

dnstry in various sections of the State, thongli not 
spreading with the same rapidity, or being so immedi- 
ately fatal as it is in France. It has made its appearance 
in so many sections of the State, that we may take it for 
granted that it will appear everywhere in time, although 
it may never gain a firm foothold in those districts where 
the soil is very sandy, and it can be submerged. That 
its inroads can be serious enough even here, can easily be 
seen in the devastated vineyards of Sonoma and Napa 
counties, where hundreds of acres of once flourishing 
vines have already succumbed to it. While it is un- 
doubtedly true that vines in exhausted soil, impoverished 
by constant crops, yield to its attacks quicker than those 
on richer soil, or fertilized with manures, there can be no 
doubt that all Vinifera varieties will succumb to it in 
time, even 'in the richest soil. It is also just as apparent 
that resistant vines, planted in soils where the Vinifera 
varieties have been entirely destroyed, and the ground is 
full of the insects, will live, thrive, and produce abun- 
dantly. The best and only safe course for the planter is, 
therefore, to plant resistant vines; and I would consider 
it the hight of folly for any one to plant Viniferas in an 
infected district. Let them not rely on insecticides as a 
partial remedy. It is much cheap3r, indeed, to plant 
resistant vines at once, and be on the safe side, than to 
doctor a vineyard where the insect has once appeared. 
The plantings of Messrs. Dresel and Gundlach, in Sono- 
ma Valley, as well as my own, of over two hundred and 
eighty acres of resistant vines, have fully demonstrated 
the fact that the riparia and its varieties will thrive in 
all soils, and grow even more vigorously than the vini- 
fera, wherever it will succeed. My course would there- 
fore be to plant riparia and rupestris, which will grow 
easily from cuttings, and graft them as described in the 
preceding pages. I am glad to see that the last Con- 
vention of Grape Growers, at San Francisco, took a de- 



270 AMEllICAK GRAPE GROWING 

cided stand at last in favor of resistant vines as the only 
means of entire safety, a conclusion at which the best 
French authorities have arrived long ago. The testi- 
mony of such men as Professor Gustavo Foex, M. A. 
Millardet, Professor Eiley, and other authorities without 
number, ought certainly to be conclusive evidence in the 
case; but the report of three French experts, which I 
give here in full, establishes a new phase of the question, 
namely, that the French varieties, when grafted on 
American stocks, produce much more abundantly than 
they ever did on their own roots. 



CHAPTER LIL 

AMERICAN VINES IN FRANCE. 

The following extract, from ''The Wine and Spirit 
Kews," contains about the latest French experience on 
the subject of American vines, and is conclusive enough 
to convince the most skeptical. It clearly establishes 
two points: 1st, The entire resistance of the American 
Vines to phylloxera; 2nd, The adaptability of the Vinifera 
for grafting on the American stock, as it positively states 
that the productiveness of the European varieties has 
been increased by one-half over the original yield : 

''Under the heading 'Measures for Combating the 
Phylloxera,' a pamphlet has recently been published at 
Bordeaux, giving an account of a visit paid by M. A. 
Lalande, the deputy for the Gironde, in company with 
M.M. Ed. Lawton and T. and P. Skawinski, to the dis- 
tricts of the Herault and the Gard, for the purpose of 
studying the means employed in those departments with 
a view to the destruction of the phylloxera or, where 
necessary, reconstituti-ng the vineyards already destroyed. 



AND WINE MAKING. 271 

This journe}^, which .extended over six days, was under- 
taken more especially in the interests of the vine- 
growers of the great and important district of the Medoc, 
the centre of the richest vine districts of France. 

*'Up to the present time, the ravages of the phyllox- 
era, although considerable, have not by any means been 
so serious in the Medoc as in some of the other wine- 
producing districts of France. In the department of the 
Gard, for instance, it is stated that out of two hundred 
and fifty-five thousand acres of vines, two hundred and 
fifty thousand have been destroyed; Avhile in the Herault, 
which produced at one time three hundred and thirty 
million gallons of wine, and the average annual produc- 
tion of which vv^as two hundred and twenty million gal- 
lons, the quantity for 1881 fell to se /enty-seven million 
gallons only. From these figures it w^'ll readily be seen 
that the field for inquiry offered by these tv/o depart- 
ments was an extensive one, and the information to be 
obtained should be of extreme value as a guide to other 
districts, and all the more so, as energetic measures have 
already been adopted by the vine-growers of the South, 
with a view, if not to save, at least to renew the vines 
which constitute for them the chief wealth of their dis- 
tricts. 

*' Before proceeding further, we may say that the in- 
formation and evidence obtained by M. Lalande and his 
fellow-travellers throws a somewhat new light upon the 
question of the phylloxera, and seems to show that, seri- 
ous as the damage caused by this insect has been, and 
still continues to be, the case is not altogether a hopeless 
one. Of various remedies, some thousands in number, 
suggested for combating the jihylloxera, three only at 
the present time hold an important position. The credit 
of having suggested one of these, that ^f re-planting by 
the American vines, is assigned to M. Laliman, and that 
gentleman shares with Baron Thenard, M. Dumas, and 



272 AMERICAIsr GRAPE GROWIKG 

M. Fancon, the honor of having indicated to the French 
vine-growers the three means capable, according to situ- 
ation and other circumstances, of resisting tlie terrible 
plague which at one time threatened to annihilate the 
vineyards of France — that is to say, the employment of 
insecticides, submersion, and American vines. 

^*^0f the first remedy we hear but few particulars dur- 
ing the journey undertaken by M. Lalande; of the sec- 
ond no notice is taken at all; while, on the other hand, 
of the results obtained by means of the third, most strik- 
ing evidence is given, and, indeed, it is apparent that it 
is to the last remedy — that of re-planting with American 
vines — that M. Lalande and his fellow-travelers attach 
the greatest importance. 

'^ On the first day of their excursion the chief interest 
seems to have been attracted to some vineyards in the 
neighborhood of Bezlers, where an extent of more than 
five thousand acres of vines had been j^reserved for some 
years past by means of sulphide of carbon, accompanied 
each year by manuring over about a third of the extent 
of the lands in question. As a result of this treatment, 
it is stated that the vegetation was good and normal, 
although there were some points where the sulphide of 
carbon appeared not to have acted with the same effi- 
ciency and success as elsewhere. The failure in these 
cases, however, was attributed to the extreme humidity, 
which had paralyzed the action of the sulphide, a failure 
which, it is ho|)ed, may be rem^edied in future by means 
of drainage. 

' ' Proceeding on the second day to the neighborhood 
of Monti^elier, a visit was there paid to an estate on 
which all the French vines had been destroyed some time 
previously, and which now presented the interesting a]o- 
pearance of an entire reconstitution of the vineyard on a 
grand scale by means of American vines planted ten years 
previously, and subsequently grafted with the French 



AN^D WII^E MAKIKCt. 273 

Tines, whicli latter haye since offered a perfect resistance 
to the attacks of the phylloxera. 

. ''In the same district another property was found 
where the vines, which were of a French variety, had 
been grafted either on the Lenoir, Clinton, Taylor, or 
Kiparia, and were in a splendid state of vegetation, with 
an abundant appearance of frnit. 

" Similar accounts are given as to a number of other 
properties visited on this and the succeeding days, as to 
which M. Lalande remarks: ' It does not appear neces- 
sary to give a detailed account of all we have been able 
to observe. We limit ourselves, therefore, to remarking 
that, after having seen numerous specimens of all varie- 
ties of American vines introduced into France, we have 
especially noticed some Lenoir and Herbemont vines as 
presenting a magnificent appearance, with a fair quantity 
of fruit, although, it should be stated, much less so tlian 
was to be found where French vines had been grafted on 
American stocks.' As a proof of this fact, some par- 
ticulars are given of a property in the neighborhood of 
Montpelier, where all the French vines had been de- 
stroyed by the phylloxera. Here some two hundred acres 
had been replanted a few years previously with the 
American vine called Riparia, and these had been subse- 
quently grafted with French vines. The results in this 
case were splendid, the vegetation being very fine, and 
the quantity of fruit enormous, in fact, all the vines 
were loaded with magnificent grapes, and these extremely 
J well formed, so much so that the production had in- 
creased by half as much again per acre on the original 
yield. 

*' Very much the same results were observed on the last 
day of the journey, when visiting the extensive vineyards 
of the Duchess Fitz James. This lady has given much 
attention to the question of the advantages to be derived 
from replanting with American vines, and an article con- 



274 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

tributed by ber some twelve months ago to tbe Revue dcs 
deux MondeSf on the subject of American yines, may be 
said to have contained, at that time, all the information 
to be obtained in regard to the same. Speaking of this 
property, M. Lalande says: ' We have much admired here 
the American vines — principally the Lenoir — cultivated 
with a view to direct production, as also the American 
vines grafted with French varieties. We have, however, 
still more admired, if this were possible, the energy and 
intelligence displayed by the Duchess Fitz James in the 
reconstitution of her vineyards. Some idea may be 
formed of this when we state that she has already suc- 
cessfully replanted one thousand two hundred and sev- 
enty-five acres of vines, and is making arrangements for 
increasing this replanting to the extent of nearly two 
thousand acres, thereby inspiring the conviction that the 
magnificent vineyards of this district — now almost en- 
tirely destroyed — will be able gradually to be reconsti- 
tuted by means of American vines.' 

" One other curious piece of information resulted from 
tliis visit. It appears that, it having been found that 
vines planted in sandy soils resisted the attacks of pliyllox- 
era better, these lands, which formerly had been neg- 
lected, and were worth scarcely thirty-two shillings per acre, 
have now, after they have been planted with vines, in- 
creased in value to nearly one hundred times that amount. 
Thus in the sandy soil of Aigues-Mortes, the American 
vines which have been planted there presented a magnifi- 
cent appearance with an abundant show of fruit. 

^'From all the information obtained during their visit, 
M. Lalande and his fellow-travellers state as the result 
of their experience, they found in the departments of the 
Herault and the Gard, that the preference was given by 
the vine-growers, almost exclusively, to two kinds of 
American vines — the Lenoir and the Riparia, although 
some other varieties, such as the Clinton, the SoJonis, 



A}!;rD WIIiTE MAKING. 2T5 

the York-Madeira, and the Rupestris, arc considered ex- 
cellent importations for grafting with French vines. 

" Too much praise cannot be bestoAved upon M. La- 
lande and those associated with him in this journey, un- 
dertaken as it was, entirely in the interests of the French 
vine-growers, and if, as appears more tlian likely, as the 
result of their visit, the practice should become general 
throughout France of replanting with American vines as 
a means of resisting the phylloxera, the destruction of 
the French vineyards, which at one time aj^peared more 
than possible, may, it now seems more than probable, be 
averted. " 



CHAPTER LIIL 

RESTORING AN INFESTED VINEYARD.— FROSTS. 

But the question may well be asked: '* What shall we 
do with an old vine^^ard, infested by the insect ? " — I have 
the management of such a vineyard of about seventy-five 
acres, of which about twenty-five have already succumbed, 
and I have no faith in the applicatiou of any of the insec- 
ticides that have been tried, believing that the remedy 
will not be lasting, and will cost morr- than it is worth. 
But I believe in the liberal application of manures. 
This whole vineyard, the crop of which had already 
dwindled down to twenty thousand gallons in 1882, when 
I took it in hand, was well manured the next winter. A 
part of it was treated with stable manure, a part with gas 
lime, and another portion with ammoniacal liquid from 
the gas works. I diluted the latter by adding seventy 
gallons of water to ten gallons of the liquid, and applied 
about half a gallon of the solution to each vine, making 
a shallow trench about a foot from the stem. The gas 
lime I scattered thinly over the surface of the soil, using 
at the rate of half a gallon to each square of eight feet. 



276 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

The stable manure was also distributed over the surface 
and plowed under. The ammoniacal liquid was again 
applied in midsummer, and showed astonishing results 
in the increased vigor of the vines and size of the berries. 
The gas lime was next in efficacy, and the stable manure 
third, but all caused an increased vigor, and though we 
lost over five acres again by tlie insect, we made thirty- 
seven thousand gallons of wine, which, deducting the area 
destroyed, made our croj^ double that of the year before. 
It is but fair to say, however, that different pruning and 
training, as well as better cultivation, contributed largely 
to this increase. I intend to follow up this treatment, 
and keep the vines alive as long as I can, and to replant 
the destroyed part of the vineyard with American vines. 
Those already set out show satisfactory growth and 
vigor, although planted in the same place where the 
Viniferas were destroyed. 

In the first part of the book I have already given the 
condensed life liistory of the Phylloxera, and it would 
lead too far, were I to go into all the testimony and details 
relating to this pest. A word to the wise is sufficient. 

We also ]iave the grape vine Fidia here in this State. In 
addition to the remedies given on page 113; we apply sul- 
phur, which seems to check them. The Thrip or Leaf- 
hopper (a dull white and yellow insect) is very abundant 
and destructive to the foliage in certain parts of the State. 
Spraying in spring with a mixture of sulphur, Buohach 
and soft soap, through a fine nozzle manufactured for 
the purpose, is a good remedy. In fall, when the grapes 
^re off, sheep may be turned among the vines, which will 
cat the leaves and weeds, thereby destroying millions of 
the insects, and enrich the ground by their droppings. 

None of the diseases and insects found here, are such 
serious obstacles to grape culture, as the unfavorable 
climate and tlie manifold diseases present to tlie grape 
growers of tlie States east of the Eocky Mountains. In 



AKD WIKE MAKING. 277 

fact, the ease with which grapes and all other fruits have 
been grown here, has engendered in many of the old 
grape growers, a disposition to ease and slovenliness; and 
has been the cause of a great deal of poor management 
and carelessness, of which poor results, in quality and 
quantity, were the natural' consequences. Many have 
rushed heedlessly into grape culture, without any fitness 
for the task. These will quit it after a few years of 
seemingly unfavorable results, and the sooner they drop 
from the ranks, the better it will be for the ultimate suc- 
cess of the cause. 

FROSTS. I 

j \ 

As remarked before, the greatest care should be taken 
to avoid frosty locations. But if any one is so unfortunate 
as to have a vineyard subject to frosts, he can do some- 
thing to avoid the calamity. It is a universal practice to 
place pans holding gas tar in different parts of the vine- 
yard, which is lighted about three o'clock in the morning, 
and makes a very dense smoke. Any other material that 
will make a thick smoke, may also be used. While smoke 
may be a partial protection if the thermometer falls but 
a degree or so below the freezing point, I have little faith 
in its efficacy wdien the temperature falls still lower. I 
believe more in longer pruning, as a means to guard 
against total loss. A grape grower in Sonoma valley, who 
has a very frosty situation, obtained a fair crop in 1882, 
when neighbouring vineyards were badly damaged, by 
pruning his vines late in May, when all danger of frost 
had passed. The upper buds of the vines, which had 
started before the frost, had all been killed, while the 
lower ones remained dormant. When he pruned back to 
these, they started, and produced a fair crop, but as the 
grapes were very late, they did not ripen fully, and being 
Zinfandel, made a very acid wine, hardly salable. He 



278 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

has followed the same course this season, and will have a 
iato and imperfect crop again, when his neighbors, who 
pruned at the usual time, have a fine cind abundant crop. 
I think that a crop may be secured in such locations 
by somewhat longer pruning, leaving spurs of three to 
four buds, instead of two buds, then the two upper buds 
will start first, the lower ones of course remaining dor- 
mant. If there is no frost, so much the better, the first 
shoots will then ripen their fruit, and any superfluous 
shoots may be rubbed out when all danger is past. If a 
frost should take the first shoots, then the lower, dormant 
buds will push, and certainly produce earlier and better 
fruit, than they will do if the vine is first weakened by 
losing all its leaves and shoots at a time when they are 
needed for elaborating the sap, and when excessive flow of 
sap and bleeding are inevitable. This seems to me a 
simple and natural preventive of total loss by frost, and I 
advise my readers to try it, hoping that it will prevent 
this unpleasant calamity. 

MAKKETINQ GRAPES. 

This is a very important business in this State, and many 
who follow it find it more profitable than making wine. 
Carloads upon carloads are shipped East, until California 
grapes can be found in every market of consequence. The 
varieties used for shipping are mostly such as have a large 
handsome berry and bunch, and meaty or solid flesh, with 
rather thick skin, so that they will carry well. The most 
popular varieties are the Flame Tokay and Muscat of 
Alexandria, the first a large lilac berry and a very heavy, 
compact bunch, sometimes weighing seven to nine pounds, 
the latter a large greenish-white berry, long, loose bunch, 
with a strong Muscat flavor. This is also the principal 
raisin grape. The Rose of Peru, also called Black Prince, 
is shipped considerably, though it does not bear carriage 
so well. The earliest grapes shipped are, generally, the 



AKD WItTE MAKING. 279 

Golden Chasselas and Sweetwater. The Emperor, a late 
grape of handsome purple color, and Black Morocco, with 
the Oornuchon, are also shipped to some extent. I hear 
of contracts made for whole vineyards of these varieties, 
at from sixty to sixty-five dollars per ton, the buyer paying 
freight. They are generally packed in boxes of twenty-five 
pounds each, and the same directions for packing given 
in the first part of this volume will apply here. 



CHAPTEE LIV. 

RAISIN MAKING. 



The making of raisins is a business assuming vast 
proportions, and California raisins seem to find a ready 
sale at remunerative prices, when well handled and cured. 
Many engage in this branch of grape culture, Avho have 
concientious scruples against making wine, and even 
ladies have resorted to it as a pleasant and profitable 
means of support. Miss M. F. Austin, a maiden lady, is 
manager of the Hedgerow vineyard, near Fresno, and 
cultivates thirty acres of grapes for making raisins. Messrs. 
Briggs Bros, have several hundred acres near Davisville 
and Woodland, Yolo Co., exclusively in raisin grapes, 
mostly in Muscats, Muscatella and Gordo Blanco. The 
Muscats are vines of very peculiar growth, branching close 
to or from the ground, and have very stocky, short-jointed 
wood, and they are generally grown very low, most of the 
branches resting on the ground. The seedless grapes, of 
which the Sultana is the most prominent and promising, 
require long pruning to produce well. The White ^ 
Corinth, smaller than the Sultana, has been grown in this 
State with varying success; the general impression being 
that it is not sufficiently productive. Very fine samples of 
the dried fruit and the grapes of both this and the Sul- 
tana were shown at the last Viticultaral Con\ention, and 



280 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

as the Sultana is also an excellent wine grape, there can 
be no risk in planting it largely. 

As I am not experienced in raisin making, I insert here 
an article by Mr. R. B. Blowers, from the Report of the 
State Board of Viticulture for 1880. Mr. B. has made rai- 
sin making a speciality in Yolo Co. and has been yery suc- 
cessful. He has himself constructed a very practical 
dryer in which he finishes up the drying begun in the 
field. The working is described in a very practical manner. 

The following is the Report of Mr. R. B. Blowers, 
Commissioner for the Sacramento District: 

^' Raisin making being one of the important interests in 
this viticulturual district, I will explain the California 
method. Raisins are made from the Muscatella, Gordo 
Blanco, and Muscat of Alexandria, preferably of the 
former; also a seedless raisin, highly esteemed, made from 
the seedless Sultana. The grapes should be allowed to 
remain on the vine until quite ]-ipe, and show a yellowish 
or golden color, and being more translucent than wheu 
too green. Then they sliould be carefully picked and 
placed upon a drying tray (usually two by three feet in 
size), and exposed, with an inclination toward the sun, 
in some convenient place, generally between the rows in 
the vineyard, or in some contiguous open land. After 
having been exposed a sufficient time to become about 
half dried, they are turned once in this manner, viz. : two 
workmen taking an empty tray, place it upon a full one, 
holding them firmly together, and with a swinging motion 
turn them over, and replace the now turned grapes in 
their former position. The turning should be done before 
the dew is quite off of the grapes in early morning; then, 
when the grapes have become so dry as to lose their ashy 
appearance, some being a little too green and some quite 
dry enough, they are, after removing those entirely too 
green, slid from the tray into large sweat boxes, having 
a thick sheet of paper between about every twent3'-five or 



AND WIXE MAKIIS^d. 281 

thirty pounds of raisins, and then removed to the store- 
room, where they should remain two weeks or more. 
When ready to pack, it will be found that the too moist 
ones have parted with their surplus moisture, which has 
been absorbed by the stems and drier raisins. The stems 
are now tough and the raisins soft and ready to pack. 
They are carefully placed in packing frames made of iron 
or steel. Tlie large and fair ones being placed carefully 
in the bottom of the frames, the surplus stems and im- 
perfect berries cut away, then the average raisins are 
arranged in and weighed, placing five pounds in each 
frame, pressed enough to make them firm in the frame, 
but not enough to break the skin. They are then 
passed to an inspector, who examines the exposed side of 
the raisins, removing any imperfect ones, then j^lacing 
the wrapper paper on the frame, holds it in place with a 
wooden or steel plate, turns it bottom up, drops the left 
end into the box, slides the plate quickly from under the 
frame, and it drops into the box, then pressing slightly 
upon the movable bottom of the frame, the frame is re- 
moved ; the bottom of the frame is then pressed more 
firmly, to cause tlie raisins to fill the space formerly 
occupied by the sides and ends of the frame; then it is 
removed, and the face of the latter is exposed, all imper- 
fect berries or too wet ones are removed, and all vacan- 
cies or hollows filled by large, loose raisins. The label of 
the proprietor is then placed on the face; the ends of the 
wrapper, and then the sides are folded over, the box cover 
nailed on, and they are ready for market. 

^' The complaint is sometimes made that the California 
raisins have tough skins, too large and too many seeds, 
lose fiavor in cooking, lose their bloom, and do not keep 
well. The most of these objections arise from an imper- 
fect knowledge of the best varieties from which to make 
raisins. If Californians would confine themselves to varie- 
ties which centuries of experience have proved to be best 



282 AMERICAK GRAPE GROWING 

in Europe, there would be more satisfaction in the result. 
Cultivation, irrigation, local climate, kind of soil, and 
exposure to sun, all have an influence in modifying the 
characteristics of any one variety. Virgin soil and vigor 
of vine may make the seeds fuller, as it does in the cereals, 
but it should not, other things being equal, make the 
skins thicker, but the contrary. 

''As a soil for raisins, a rich, sandy loam is preferred; 
the climate should be warm; the soil moist; winter irri- 
gation in average years is quite as important as summer 
in our dry valleys. For safety against many kinds of 
insect pests, the phylloxera especially, a location is desir- 
able where water is plenty and evenness of land surface 
permits winter submersion. In such favorable locations 
a larger berry, thinner skin, better yield, etc., will be the 
result. The vines are planted eight by eight feet in many 
locations, but growers of the greatest experience prefer a 
greater distance apart; some plant eight feet by ten feet, 
some ten by ten feet, thus giving greater vigor to each 
vine, enabling it to resist enemies of all kinds more surely. 

'* Many hundred tons of shipping grapes are sent East 
from this district to all principal markets in the United 
States. The Emperor, Tokay, Black Morocco, and Mus- 
cat family are most liked for the Eastern market. 

*' Irrigation is a very important factor in the success of 
the fruit grower, but if the situation is good in other 
respects, and no ditch water can be secured, it is found 
that in many parts of the State an unfailing supply lies 
but a small way beneath the surface in gravel ridges. 
Former watercourses having been filled with gravel, the. 
surface stream diverted sometimes many miles away, leave 
quite a large flow of water in the gravel. This being 
tapped by a well, the only equipment needed is a straw- 
burner engine and rotary pump, and one hundred or more 
acres can be irrigated with economy, insuring a good 
profit and a pleasant home. 



AKD WINE MAKING. 283 

'* In an experiment made recently in Yolo County, after 
having submerged the entire vineyard for nearly two 
weeks, such a well being on the place, the ditch water 
was shut off from twenty acres of the vineyard, and 
while the w^ater still covered the entire surface to the 
extent of over nineteen acres, the pump was run five 
hours, supj^lying the seepage and raising the water five- 
eighths of an inch over the entire surface, showing that in 
twenty-four hours three inches in excess of the seepage 
could be added to nineteen acres after the ground had 
been saturated. 

^^Cost of planting and cultivating, irrigating, labor, 
subsistence, etc., including total expense for first year, is 
from twenty to twenty-five dollars per acre, if thoroughly 
w^ell done; second year, fifteen to twenty dollars; third 
year, many varieties, if well cared for, yield a profit; if 
not well attended to it may take a year or two longer. 
Nothing pays better than care, and nothing loses more 
surely than negligence in vine growing. In pruning, the 
habit of each variety grown should be closely studied. In 
grafting great care should be taken to choose stock with 
wood of similar growth; if the variety desired is a coarse 
w^ood and large grower, a similar stock should be selected; 
if wood is of fine texture and slow growth, a wood of fine 
texture should be selected as grafting stock. As fruit 
growing is destined to be the pursuit of a large portion of 
the agriculturists of this State, and their experience shows 
a yearly increase of insect pests, doing great damage to 
the various branches of the industry, a State entomolo- 
gist, whose duty should be to study the habits of all in- 
jurious insects and assist in devising means for their ex- ' 
termination, seems to be an actual necessity; also, the 
enactment of some law compelling those careless of their 
own interests to keep their fruit farms from breeding in- 
sects for the contagion of surrounding districts." 



284 AMERICA2S" GRAPE GROWING 

CHAPTER LV. 

WINE MAKING IN CALIFORNIA. 

Wine making is much more simple and less laborious 
here than in Missouri and the Eastern States, as our 
dry summers always mature the grapes sufficiently to 
make a good, salable wine, if well handled in ferment- 
ing. The practices of Gall and Petiot are neither useful, 
necessary, nor profitable here, where grape- juice, if proper 
varieties are selected, is perfect enough to make a good 
wine, and is cheaper than additions of sugar and water. 
In my practice here, during two vintages, very dissimilar 
in their product, I have not found the least difficulty in 
making a good, sound wine from every grape I have han- 
dled; my wines were always fully through fermentation 
in less than six days, and clear enough to be marketed 
in six Aveeks from the time they were made. They were 
shipped as far East as Connecticut, when not more than 
a year old, and arrived in perfect condition. 

Let it be understood, therefore, that all the practices 
given in the following pages relate only to pure grape- 
juice, and the wine made from it. I am indeed glad 
that I am making wine in a State where all these manip- 
ulations, necessary as they are in a less favorable cli- 
mate, are entirely superfluous. 

The directions about the construction of cellars and 
fermenting rooms, as given in Part 3 of the book, will 
also, for the most part, apply here, although it is not 
necessary, in this temperate climate, to have the fer- 
menting room under ground. On this place we have a 
three-story wine-house, with a capacity of sixty thousand 
gallons, which admirably answers all purposes. It is 
built of stone, forty by sixty feet; the lower story is 
mostly under ground, and twelve feet high, not arched, 
but with a double floor, which is supported by a double 



AND WIKE MAKIN^G. 285 

row of strong wooden pillars twelve feet from the wall. 
This gives room for four rows of one thousand gallon 
casks, one on each side and two in the middle, with suffi- 
cient room between for pumping and racking. We have 
here two rows of six casks on each side, one row of five 
casks across at the further end, and two rows of five 
casks each in the middle, making a capacity of twenty- 
seven thousand gallons, to which we can easily add five 
thousand more by putting smaller casks on top. This 
keeps an even tem23erature of about sixty degrees, sum- 
mer and winter. The second story is entirely above 
ground, ten feet high, and with the same capacity as the 
lower. This is used as the fermenting room proper, and 
contains two rows of casks of one thousand gallons capa- 
city each, in the middle, with smaller casks and ferment- 
ing tanks on each side. The third story is really only a 
half story, and contains stemmers, crushers, and presses. 
The grapes are handed up in boxes over a platform at 
the back end of the building, which is built into the 
east side of a hill. The upper story contains also some 
fermenting vats for white grapes, grape boxes, and other 
implements used in wine-making, and it serves as a shop 
in which to make cuttings, etc., in winter. The presses 
are connected by hose through holes in the floor (which 
is also supported in a similar manner as the lower one) 
with the casks and fermenting vats below, so that any of 
the casks on the second or first floor can be filled directly 
from the press. 

The process I have followed here has been, to ferment 
the true white-wine grapes, such as Chasselas Fontaine- 
bleau and Violet, Victoria Chasselas, Muscatell, etc.,' 
when stemmed and crushed, for about twenty-four hours 
on the skins, then press them, and run the juice into 
casks in the second story, where it finishes fermentation. 
The average temperature there is about sixty-five to sev- 
enty-five degrees. 



286 AMERICAN" GRAPE GROWIls"G 

When I make white wine from Mission and Malvasia, 
as I have had to do here, as these have a good deal of 
color in the skins, I stem and crush the grapes, and then 
press immediately, but very lightly. This juice is run 
from the press into the thousand-gallon casks on the sec- 
ond floor, and finishes its fermentation there; this is 
generally over in less than a week. The remainder of 
the grapes is then thrown into the fermenting vats, also 
on the second floor, and ferments there until the mass 
begins to cool off, being stirred and thoroughly mixed 
about three times a day, so as to have an even tempera- 
ture in all parts of the fluid. It has generally finished 
its violent fermentation and become quiet in four to five 
days; it is then pressed, and the young wine run into 
the casks on the first floor, where it matures rapidl}^, and 
is generally ready for racking in a few weeks. The true 
red-wine grapes, such as Zinfandel, Burgundy, etc., are 
stemmed and crushed, and all put into fermenting vats 
in the second story. Many take the first juice from the 
Zinfandel and make white wine from it. This is mostly 
done to obtain deeper color in the red wine, but our vine- 
yards yield color enough, and I think it deprives the 
wine of its best qualities, while I have never yet seen a 
white Zinfandel wine which I could call first class. 

The whole mass is stirred and turned several times 
every day, and pressed as soon as the must has lost its 
sweetness and assumed instead the bitter taste character- 
istic of young red wines. 

The grapes should be thoroughly ripe, but not over 
ripe. This is easily tested by crushing a few bunches, 
pressing the juice through a cloth, and testing it with 
the sacharometer and thermometer. The thermometer 
should be at sixty degrees if inserted in the must. The 
sacharometer mostly in use here is Balling's; twenty-five 
degrees of Ballings' is about equal to one hundred of Oech- 
sle's, or one to four. Each two degrees of Balling will 



AND WI5^E MAKING. 287 

be one per cent, of alcohol in fermented and clarified 
wine. 

Here again it is absolutely necessary that you should 
know the material from which you make wine. The 
Ohasselas varieties, for instance, contain but about three 
pro mille acid, when the must indicates twenty-five 
on Balling's scale, and will make a livelier wine when 
taken if they show but twenty-two or twenty-three, than 
if allowed to go up to tAventy-five, or even higher. The 
Eiesslings, Sauvignon Vert, etc., may be allowed to ripen 
to twenty-five, as they contain more acid, although they 
will also make a good wine if taken at twenty-two or 
twenty-three. None of our light wines ought to show 
higher than twenty-five, except perhaps the Zinfandel, 
which contains more acid than any other Vinif era I know. 
It must be very ripe to come up to twenty-five, and then 
contains four and a half to five pro mille acid. When in 
that stage, many of its berries are already shrivelled, as 
it ripens unevenly; as it colors early, many wine-mak- 
ers are led into the belief that it is ripe enough, and 
gather it, when it should really hang a week longer. If 
well ripened, on good soils, it makes a very fine claret, 
but it is so universally grown and planted in all locations, 
and often handled so ignorantly, that we find a great deal 
more poor than good Zinfandel. But can we wonder at 
this, when a paper which claims to be the leading organ 
of the grape growers, advocates ignorance in its columns, 
says that, chemistry and science have nothing to do with 
wine making, and do more harm than good ? 

It is this ignorance among the great mass of our wine- 
makers that has been the cause, to a great extent, of so 
much poor and sour wine. The idea prevailed that the 
ripest grapes made the best wine, and few were aware of 
the fact that there is a limit, a time when each variety 
should be taken, when the sugar and acid are in the 
proper proportion, and that at this period fermentation 



288 AMEKICAN GKAPE GE0WI:N'G 

will commence quickly, and go through perfectly, if other 
conditions are favorable. But take the Mission or Chas- 
selas at thirty, or even above, and then have indifferent 
fermenting rooms, and you cannot make a good, sound, 
dry wine; but, to make anything out of it, it must be 
fortified with brandy to make sweet wine. The great 
trouble in making dry wines in this State may be summed 
up in the following causes: Varieties of grapes which 
will not make fine wine ; gathering and working the 
grapes at the wrong time; imperfect fermenting vats and 
rooms; negligence and slovenliness during fermentation; 
and improper handling afterwards. 

Two of the leading grapes, those which produced most 
abundantly, were the Mission, originated and first distri- 
buted by the Jesuit Fathers of the Mission St. Gabriel, and 
the so-called Black Malvasia, and most of the older vine- 
yards were largely composed of these. Xeither is a fine 
wine grape ; the Mission has little flavor, but develoj^es 
a great deal of sugar and tannin. Its white wine 
will, with age, develop a certain sherry-flavor, but 
is harsh, heady, and heavy, affecting the nerves of 
those who drink it freely, and its red wine has only 
roughness, while it lacks flavor and that agreeable 
acid so essential in good claret. The Black Malvasia (so- 
called, though it is no Malvasia) is a large, pulpy, black 
grape, with a heavy bunch, and large, oblong berry. It is 
a good table grape. It has not color enough to be worked 
alone into claret or port, but the first juice is made into 
white wine, which is passable, but has no distinguishing 
qualities or fineness. The red wine is said to make about as 
good port, in quantity, if worked into it the first season, 
as has as yet been produced; but as a dry wine, though 
passable the first year, it developes a very disagreeable 
flavor with age, and contains too much acid. Most of 
the so-called California hocks and clarets were formerly 
made of these two grapes, and even the best of them 



i 



AND WINE MAKING. 289 

were not choice or fine wines. Their culture should 
therefore be entirely abandoned, except, perhaps, for 
liqueur wines, and even for these, I think we now have 
better varieties. 

I have already alluded to picking each variety at its 
proper time. This should be done when the grape is 
ripe enough, but not too ripe. This time is when it con- 
tains sugar enough to make a wine varying from eleven 
to twelve per cent, of alcohol, or when the sacharometer 
indicates from twenty-two to twenty-five Balling, and 
from three and a half to four and a half pro mille acid. 
It will then make a lively and pleasant wine, agreeable to 
the palate, and of good bouquet, as wines deficient in 
acid cannot develop bouquet. This will necessitate some 
experimenting with the different varieties, but a little 
practice with the tongue will soon enable any man of or- 
dinary intelligence to make a close guess, and the instru- 
ments will determine positively. Ko doubt we can also 
derive great benefit from blending different varieties of 
grapes ; for instance, the Zinfandel has flavor and a 
sprightly acid, but is rather thin in color and taste. 
The Lenoir will, 1 think, supply both of these deficien- 
cies, and I hope still more from Norton's Virginia and 
Cynthiana. Each locality will have its own special varie- 
ties in future, which it will produce in the greatest per- 
fection, and which are suited to its soil and climate. It 
is generally believed that the southern jiart of the State 
will not make as good light, dry wines as the north, 
while it will excel in the heavy, sweet wines. While I 
concede the latter as the natural consequence of a longer ( 
and warmer season, w^hich will develop more sugar and 
body, I am not at all sure of the former. On a recent 
visit to the south, I found some excellent dry wines 
made from the Burger and Blaue Elben, by Mr. Rose 
and others, and also some very fine wines made from 
mixed white grapes in several cellars, also very fair clar- 
13 



290 AMERICAN^ GRAPE GROWING 

ets. The Burger does not ripen perfectly with lis, being 
a tremendous bearer, and late, it makes a rather light, 
acid wine, of a negative character. At the south it 
ripens fully, and makes a fuller wine, with pronounced 
bouquet. Why cannot other varieties be picked and 
worked there when just ripe enough, and thus make good, 
dry, sprightly wine from them ? I would not be afraid 
to try it, with strong hopes of entire success. 

Imperfect fermenting vats and rooms are certainly the 
cause of a great many poor wines. I would have the fer- 
menting vats rather wide and low than high and narrow, 
as they generally are here. Say five feet high and six 
feet wide, or still wider. They are here generally made 
of red wood, which makes very good fermenting vats, 
though I do not think it is fit for casks to keep wine in, 
as it is too apt to leak. A general practice here is to 
have false bottoms, or rather tops to the vats, perforated 
with holes, to hold the skins and pomace under the 
fluid when fermenting, and through which the fluid bub- 
bles constantly. Experience has taught me to discard 
these altogether, as the mass, when thrown in, will re- 
main cooler at the bottom than at the top, where it 
comes in contact with the air. The consequence is, that 
fermentation commences, and is more violent at the top, 
where it often is at nearly blood heat when it is yet 
cool below. My practice is, to press the pomace down 
frequently with wooden pestles, and mix it thoroughly 
with the fluid below, so as to equalize the temperature as 
much as possible, when I will have a thorough, steady 
fermentation in the whole mass. I thus avoid that un- 
pleasant, burnt taste generally called "^tank taste," which 
is found in so many of our clarets especially, and fer- 
mentation has never been stopped or interrupted by a 
slight change in the temperature, as is the case in many 
other establishments. 

The fermentins: room should be so constructed that 



AND WINE MAKING. 291 

the temperature will not fluctuate too much. The cli- 
mate in this State is peculiar, the days are sometimes 
very hot, while the nights are nearly always cool. Nearly 
all of the fermenting rooms are simply board sheds, with 
- only one thickness of boards between the inner and oute^ 
atmosphere, so that the changes inside are almost as sud- 
den as those outside. This should not be; if the fer- 
menting room cannot be built of stone, it should at 
least have double walls of boards, with the intermediate 
space filled with sawdust, spent tan, or other non-con- 
ducting materials, so that it will keep as even a tempera- 
ture as possible. Sudden changes interrupt fermenta- 
tion, and are very injurious. Kegligence and slovenli- 
ness during the whole process of wine making has a great 
deal to do with a poor product. Everything, from the 
boxes in which the grapes are picked to the cask in 
which the young wine is to perfect itself, should be clean; 
as should the crusher, press, fermenting vat, and the 
whole building, which should also be well ventilated, so 
that the air is pure. I have seen many so-called wineries, 
which looked more like slaughter houses than the cleanly 
establishments in which wine, the noblest fluid which 
God has given to man, is to be made and perfected. If 
mould and dirt are left on the fermenting vats from one 
year to the other, until the air is sour and fetid with the 
smell of decay, how can we expect wine, the most sus- 
ceptible liquid that we can handle, to taste and smell 
fresh and pure ? Before using the vats for ferment- 
ing, they should all be washed with a solution of sal soda, 
and the floor and press-room should be scrubbed every 
few days during wine making. Casks can easily be kept 
clean and pure by fumigating with sulphur, when empty, 
but before using they should be washed to free them 
from the taste and smell of sulphur, which also tends to 
prevent fermentation. 

Improper handling afterwards, also has a great in- 



292 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING 

flnence on the wine. The casks, as soon as fermen- 
tation has ceased, should be filled up to the bungs, and 
clean bungs driven in lightly at first, and firmly when the 
wine has become quite still. As soon as clear, wine should 
be racked into clean casks, as described in the j^roper 
place. Smaller casks are very difficult to clean, as the 
lees are so adhesive, yet it is important that they 
should be all taken out. It is best to open the cask, and 
brush it inside, but if a cooper is not at hand to do this, 
they may be cleaned by putting a small chain through the 
bung-hole, and then shaking the cask well, with a few 
buckets of clear, pure water; this should be repeated until 
the water rans out clear. Use as little sulphur as possible; 
some are in the habit of sulphuring strongly every time 
they raok or ship the wine. This gives an unpleasant 
smell and taste, and such sulphured wine is apt to cause 
headache. It is an old exj^loded idea that the lees are 
the mother of the wine, and that it should remain on them 
to gain strength. The lees are the excrements of the 
wine, and the sooner they are separated from it, the better. 
Generally the young wines are here sold to the merchant 
within the first six months. Of course they sliould be 
racked again before shipping, and if not sold, they 
should be racked again the second time in March. 

I am aware that I conflict in my views on fermentation 
with those advanced by ^fr. Arpath Haraszthy, who dis- 
courses upon fermentation at every meeting of the State 
Viticultural Convention, and is considered an authority 
on the subject. He claims that the finest white wines, 
such as Eiessling, etc., should also be fermented on the 
skins, putting perforated heads on top, to keep down the 
skins. I do not claim to be an authority, nor do I believe 
in authorities. We are all seekers after truth, and each 
honest opinion, supported by successful practice, is en- 
titled to respect. Practice has taught me that white wine, 
fermented on the skins, becomes harsh and rough, losing 



AND WINE MAKING. 293 

all the agreeable smoothness and fineness which we ad- 
mire in fine white wines, and I have never boen able to 
find as fine wines made by Mr. Haraszthy's method, as I 
have seen from those who make their wines in a similar 
way to mine. 

WINE MAKING APPARATUS. 

Grapes are gathered here in boxes holdiiig abouc forty 
pounds each, which each gatherer, when filled, carries 
out to the avenues between the blocks, from where they 
are hauled to the cellars in wagons. Boxes were formerly 
made very loosely, so that a great deal of juice was wasted, 
but they are now manufactured with bottoms of a single 
board, and well nailed, so that there is but little leakage. 
The crushers, stemmers, and presses in the smaller estab- 
lishments are similar to those described in the third part 
of the book. The large establishments, however, use 
crushers and stemmers, as well as various kinds of hydrau- 
lic presses, which do an immense amount of work, with 
comparatively few hands, and do it in a very thorough 
manner. They are generally run by steam power, and will 
work up from eighty to one hundred tons of grapes per 
day, if run to their full capacity. 

Cooperage of all dimensions is now made in the State, 
although most of the material for oak casks comes from 
the East in shocks and is set up by the coopers here, as 
Cahfornia oak is too brittle and coarse-grained to work to 
advantage. Casks of one thousand to two thousand gal- 
lons are worth about ten cents per gallon. The casks for 
shipping East are generally so-called puncheons, holding 
about one hundred and sixty gallons, and are much 
cheaper, costing about three dollars and fifty cents each. 

LIQUEUR WINES. 

It may be expected that I should say something about 
liqueur wines, which form a considerable part of the pro- 



294 AMERICAN" GRA.PE GROWING 

duct of fclie State, especially of the southern portions. 
They may be divided into three principal classes, Port, 
Sherry, and Angelica. The first two have mostly been 
made from the Malvasia, and Mission grapes, as the 
latter develops a sherry flavor in its white wine when it 
becomes older; the last is chiefly made from Muscat of 
Alexandria. As I have never made them to any extent, 
my readers must not expect me to go into detail, for while 
I am willing to tell all I know, I do not like to speak 
about anything of which I do not know, or know at most 
simply from hearing. Sherries and ports, in fact, all 
three of these, are fortified with grape brandy, and the 
first two cooked or heated in separate rooms, built for the 
purpose. Angelica is made by adding enough grape brandy 
to the sweet must to arrest, or rather prevent, fermenta- 
tion, and the lees and other impurities precipitated by 
an addition of quick lime, which clears it within forty- 
eight hours. Sherries are made from w^hite wines, or 
rather the first run of the Mission grape, as the object here 
is to make a light-colored wine with a peculiar flavor and 
great body. Port is made from red wine, as it should 
contain, besides deep color, a certain sweetness and 
alcoholic strength, a large amount of tannin. I do not 
pretend to be a judge of, nor an admirer of these wines, 
and must leave it to others who are, to give a more full 
description of them and the methods by which they are 
made. A very learned essay by one of the first experts, 
Mr. Pohndorff, who has followed the business in Spain, 
and described the process of making and maturing natu- 
ral sherries, impressed me wdth the idea that our Ameri- 
can people are too impatient to wait ten years before a 
sherry can be fully matured and sold, and seemed to me 
about the strongest argument against making it here in 
that way, which I have ever listened to. 



AI^D WINE MAKING. 295 

'SPARKLING WINES. 

Tliere is at present, I believe, but one firm in the State 
who make sparkling wine by the old or natural jM-ocess fer- 
menting m the bottles, and I have heard many conflic'tins 
opmions as to the success they meet with. While some 
thmk highly of the Eclipse champagne, others rate it 
far below the best brands of French champagnes, but I 
tl^k upon the whole, it meets with very ready sale. 
There IS a good deal of sparkling wine made in the quick 
or artificial way, by impregnation with carbonic acid gas 
which IS sold much cheaper, and, as far as I am able to 
judge, IS a very healthy, harmless, and enlivening bev- 
erage I do not pretend to be a nice judge of the article, 
but 1 liave compared some of the "Eclipse Extra Dry" 
with carbonated wine, made here, and especially with 
some made in New York, from California wine, shipped 
there, and my preference was for the last; nor have I ever 
felt any bad effects from the use of these carbonated 
wines. At any rate, I think the crusade led by some per- 
sons against these carbonated wines, to petition Congress to 
impose a special tax on them, a very injudicious measure. 
It the sparkling wine manufactured by them is really so 
much superior to carbonated wine, it would seem to need 
no special legislation to foster and protect it. 

THE MAKING OF BRANDT. 

Brandy-making is another important branch of Cali- 
fornia grape industry. To show how important it is, I 
need only mention the fact that one tirm made one hun- 
dred and fifteen thousand gallons of brandy last year 
with four hundred and fifty thousand gallons of wine,' 
and that all this brandy is already disposed of. 

"\\hile I am no admirer of distilled liquors, and do not 
claim to know much about them, yet I believe, as loner 
as they are consumed to the extent that they are in this 



296 AMEEICAX GRAPE GROWII^^G 

country, pure grape brandy would be more wholesome to 
use tlian the often poisonous and adulterated liquors now 
sold as whiskies and brandies. So far, most of the brandy 
has been distilled from the pomace and lees of wine, 
which, as connoisseurs say, will not make as smooth and 
delicate an article as that made from the wine of certain 
varieties of grapes, the Folle Blanche, for instance, which 
is the great Cognac grape of France. Yet while this may 
be the case, certain manufacturers have already^gained a 
name for their brandies. Gen. Naglee at St. Jose has 
taken great pride in ageing his brandy, and it ranks very 
high. Mr. Geo. West, of Stockton, has produced a very 
delicately flavored and fine brandy from \Yest's Prolific, 
and I suppose that this industry will perhaps progress to 
perfection as rapidly as the wine industry. More care in 
its manufacture, and better material, will bring better 
results as its natural consequence. 



CHAPTER LVI. 



EXTENT OF GRAPE GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 

The extent of grape growing in the State can hardly be 
estimated, as there are no official data at hand that I am 
aware of. The planting of new vineyards progresses at 
so rapid a rate that it is difficult for any one to even ap- 
proximate to it. When we look at only a few of the 
largest plantations, we may form an idea of how rapidly 
these plantings are progressing. 

Ex-Governor Leland Stanford, at his vineyards at 
Vina, found seventy-five acres in vines, planted by his pre- 
decessor, Mr. Gerke, to which were added one thousand 
two hundred and fifty acres of new plantations in 1882, and 
one thousand five hundred acres last spring, and I think 



AND WINE MAKING. 297 

the intention is to add one thousand to one thousand two 
hundred acres jDer annum for several years to come. The 
Natoma Water Co., at Folsom, Sacramento County, had 
something like six hundred acres, mostly in table grapes, 
and have added one thousand two hundred acres last 
' spring, with the intention of adding as many more next 
spring, for which the plants are already rooted in cutting 
beds. Mr. Horatio P. Liver more, the business man- 
ager, is a very intelligent and painstaking gentleman, 
and imported many of the choicest wine grapes of vSpain 
and Portugal last spring, besides growing twenty thou- 
sand Lenoir for their own planting. Messrs. Stern & 
Rose, at San Gabriel, Los Angeles County, have seven 
hundred and fifty acres in vines^ and made at their mam- 
moth establishment last year, iour hundred and fifty 
thousand gallons of wine, and one hundred and fifteen 
thousand gallons of brandy. The San Gabriel Wine Co., 
Mr. De Barth Shorb, manager, has one thousand five 
hundred acres of vineyards surrounding their new build- 
iijgs, one of which has a capacity of one hundred and 
twenty-five by two hundred and sixty feet, and the other 
of one hundred and seventy-five by two hundred and 
sixteen feet, and three stories high, are capable of work- 
ing up two hundred tons of grapes per day. Messrs. 
Kohler and Frohling, the pioneer wine makers of the 
State, have an immense establishment at Los Angeles, 
where they make mostly sweet wines and brandy, and 
another in Sonoma County, of one hundred and fifty 
, acres of bearing vineyards, where mostly light wines are 
made, and three large cellars in San Francisco.. Vine- 
yards of from two hundred and fifty to three hundred 
and fifty acres are quite frequent all over the State, and 
Napa Valley presents, from the town of Napa up to Cal- 
istoga, a distance of about thirty miles, an area of almost 
continuous vineyards. These extend through the whole 
breadth of the valley, and far up among the slopes of the 



298 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING ^ 

mountains, wherever a spot could bo found congenial to 
the yine, and not too difficult to reach. Among the 
leading producers in this beautiful valley are G-. Groez- 
inger, Yountville, with several hundred acres in bearing, 
H. W. Crabb, Oakville, three hundred and fifty acres, 
G. Niebaum, Rutherford, Chas. Krug, Mrs. J. 0. Wein- 
berger, Wm. Schetfler, Beringer Bros., and others. The 
total amount of wine made in sixty -four cellars last year 
in Napa County, was two million six hundred and forty- 
five thousand one hundred gallons. I have no data for 
Sonoma County for that year. Its product in 1880 was 
estimated by the commissioner of that district, Mr. J. de 
Turk, one of the heaviest producers and wine makers, at 
two million one hundred aud eighty thousand gallons, 
and the number of acres of bearing vines at seven thou- 
sand, with three thousand not bearing. Mr. L. J. Rose, 
commissioner of the Los Angeles district, estimates the 
yield for the same year at three million eight hundred 
thousand gallons for the district, and the value of it over 
a million of dollars. Mr. Arpad Haraszthy, President of 
the Board, estimates the wine yield of the year 1880 at 
between ten and twelve million gallons, and its value at 
three million three hundred and twelve thousand five 
hundred dollars. Since that time, immense plantings 
have been made, but I can find no data upon which to 
base an estimate of the increased yield. As the general 
yield of the crop is light this year, it may be safe to esti- 
mate it at about the same as in 1880, though it should 
be at least one-fourth larger, were the crop the same, and 
should we have as abundant a crop in 1883 as in 1880, 
the entire production of the State would come up to 
twenty million gallons. It is very much to be regretted 
that we have no later estimates, and it would seem that, 
if they could be made in 1880, they could be made in 
the following years. Such, however, seems not to be the 
case, although the efforts of Mr. Gardner, editor of the 



AND WINE MAKING. 299 

St. Helena '^Star," wlio, with commendable enterprise, 
gathers a full report of the product of Napa County each 
year, shows how easily it might be done. 

During the last few years, however, grape culture has 
advanced with giant strides, stimulated, no doubt, by 
the gratifying success and the good prices obtained for 
yiticultural products. Here, in Kapa and Sonoma coun- 
ties, it would seem, indeed, as if the prices paid for 
grapes, for the purpose of wine making, would hardly 
allow a living profit to the wine makers and dealers. Last 
year the prices ranged from twenty-five dollars per ton, 
paid for Mission, to thirt3^-five dollars per ton for Zin- 
fandel, Riessling, Chasselas, and other finer varieties, and 
this year the finer varieties seem to bring the same price, 
while Mission and Malvasia have gone down to twenty 
dollars per ton, unless extra well ripened and heavy, to 
fit them for ports and sherries. \Alien we take into ac- 
count that a ton of grapes generally yields about one 
hundred and thirty gallons, and that the young wines of 
last year have not generally sold at over twenty-eight 
cents per gallon, at an average, to the dealers in San 
Francisco, I, for one, can not see how the wdne makers 
can afford present prices, and make any profit. That it 
is a very profitable business to the grovrers is ajjparent, 
if we figure up the cost of establishing a vineyard in full 
bearing, planted with resistant roots, to make it perma- 
nent. This may be estimated as follows: 

Preparing land, plowing, harrowing, and rolling, 

per acre $ 5.00 

600 Riparia vines, including freight--. - - 25.00 

Marking and planting 5. 00 

Cultivation, first year 10.00 

Cultivation, second year 10.00 

Grafting, including cost of cions- 5.00 

Staking and tieing .-- 10.00 

Cultivation and pruning, third year 20.00 

Cultivation and pruning, fourth year 20.00 

$100.00 



300 AMEEICAK GRAPE GROWIN'G 

This year, the fourth, the vineyard ought to bear, say 
three tons to the acre; calculating at the present prices 
for choice grapes, this would pay for all the labor up to 
this time, and leave the vineyard free of debt to its pro- 
prietor, except original cost of land, and interest on cap- 
ital; this can not be calculated, because land for vine- 
yards in these counties brings all kinds of prices. Good 
vineyard lands in the neighborhood of St. Helena and 
Rutherford may now be estimated at two hundred and 
fifty dollars per acre, while nearly as good locations can 
be had, but not exactly in the '* grape boom," at fifty 
dollars per acre. Perhaps it would be safe to average 
good vineyard land at one hundred dollars per acre, 
without improvements. Bearing vineyards, in the neigh- 
borhood of 8t. Helena, have been sold as high as one 
thousand dollars per acre, but this is, in my estimation, 
a fictitious value, based on the high prices for grapes now, 
which may not continue. In fact, I believe there will 
be a decline, and that very soon. But if choice wine 
grapes come down even to twenty dollars per ton, they 
would still bring a handsome profit to the grower, esti- 
mating the cost of cultivation at twenty dollars per acre, 
and the product at four tons to the acre. 

I have giyen these figures mostly for my Eastern 
friends, who may, like myself, wish to make California 
their home. That they admit of very wide variations I 
freely acknowledge. They are based, however, upon a 
liberal estimate of costs, in establishing a vineyard on 
resistant roots, so as to be safe from phylloxera. If joii 
want to risk the cuttings of the varieties of Vinifera, 
and save the expense of grafting, the whole estimate can 
be cut down to at least seventy dollars. But this I would 
consider poor policy, and I would not adopt it. 

I speak with reference to but one part of the State. 
There are new settlements opening out every month, 
every year, w^herever cheaper lands can be had, and where 



AI^D WIKE MAKIKG. 301 

the beginner, with limited means and a few years of hard 
labor, may find a home at much less cost. These, of 
course, are districts at present not reached by railroads, 
but which may be opened in a few years. If a man 
seeks a home which Avill furnish all the facilities at once, 
wdiere all the industries are already established, and he 
has a sure market for his products every day, he has to 
pay for all these advantages. There are lands to be had, 
however, on a still different plan, which many adopt. 
Large landholders are parcelling out their lands in the 
southern part of the State; they furnish the land, while 
the cultivator furnishes the labor and the plants for the 
vineyard, works it for three years, and at the end of that 
time they divide, tlie owner taking one half of the vine- 
yards, the other half going to the planter. I have heard 
of many such arrangements in the neighborhood of Ana- 
heim, Los Angeles Co., which worked to the mutual 
satisfaction of both parties. It is comj^aratively easy 
there to plant and cultivate a vine3'ard, as the soil is 
sandy and very readily worked. But the land must be 
irrigated at least once a year, and the irrigating privi- 
leges, etc., may bring the cost to about the same as where 
the land is purchased. Grapes are cheaper there also, 
bringing only from eighteen to twency-five dollars per 
ton. But the yield is also greater, being from seven to 
eight tons per acre. These vineyards produce at least 
a year earlier than those do without irrigation. In the 
neighborhood of Fresno, where I spent a day this fall, I 
have seen vineyards, planted eighteen months ago, but 
irrigated once a year, produce three to four tons to the 
acre this fall; in the third year they will produce as much 
as ours do here the fifth season. But still I would not 
like to live there, as the climate is very hot in summer, 
cold in winter, and is also considered unhealthy. 

Grapes are generally sold to the wine makers at the 
above prices, who manufacture them into wines, which 



302 AMERICAK GRAPE GROWING 

are sold to the dealers in the city wlien they are from 
three to six months old. The average price paid for 
young wines from the cellar has been from twenty-two 
to thirty cents the gallon for ronnd lots, including all in 
the cellar, varying somewhat with the quality and the 
proportion of wines of the choicest varieties. Perhaps 
twenty-five cents would be a fair average estimate for 
cellars containing one half of Mission and Malvasia. 
The dealers mature and blend the wines to suit their 
trade, and sell them, when matured, to their customers 
throughout the State and further East. The consump- 
tion of our wines here, especially the better claret, among 
those who formerly consumed imported wines altogether, 
is increasing very fast, as they become aware that they 
can obtain a better wine at less price at home than they 
receive from abroad; and it would increase still faster if 
the nefarious practice of selling honest and good Cali- 
fornia wines under foreign labels was less general. But 
the old saying, *^ far fetched and dear bought," is as 
true with many of our would-be aristocracy as it is any- 
where ; they will readily pay treble the price for an article, 
however inferior it may be, if it is only shipped thou- 
sands of miles, and carries a foreign label. A great many 
unscrupulous dealers take advantage of this tendency, 
and use French or Rhenish labels for California wines, 
thus obtaining higher prices than they would get for 
them under their true character, and robbing our home 
product of its proper appreciation. 

THE FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY IN CALIFORNIA. 

Although speculations on the future are generally idle 
and premature, still the question, will ''grape-growing 
pay in the future?" is ever-recurring, and I can 
only give surmises. I have a deep and abiding faith in 
the ultimate success of the industry, for the following 
reasons : 



AND WINE MAKING. 303 

1. We have the finest climate in the world, and can 
always make a good product, even in the most unfavora- 
ble seasons. 

2. We have remunerative crops every year, if we avoid 
frosty locations, though not always equally good or 
abundant. Entire failures are unknown. 

3. We can make good Avines, and produce table grapes 
and raisins every year. This has been fully demonstrated 
by the crude beginnings of the past, which have already 
produced wines superior to the average of European im- 
portations, and inferior to but few. 

4. We can raise grapes and make wine cheaper than 
any other nation or climate, for reasons given above; and 
if present prices drop down one-third, or even more, the 
producer will still make a fair profit. 

5. We have the world for a market. We can satisfy 
every taste, as soon as our vineyards and wine-making 
establishments are skilfully handled. We can produce 
light, agreeable dry wines, red and white, as well as all 
the heavy ports, sherries, and sweet wines, and we can 
produce them at less cost than any other country, be- 
cause we have no failures. All we need is, to have our pro- 
duct fully known and appreciated, to make it sell. 

That we shall have many reverses yet, that there will 
be thousands who have commenced grape-growing with 
high hopes, and with over sanguine expectations, who will 
drop out of the ranks in a few years, because they lack the 
necessary intelligence and perseverance, I fully believe. 
But this is as it should be, and will be, all the world over. ^ 
It is the old, old tale of the '^ survival of the fittest,"^ 
which will repeat itself here, and in this calling, as in 
every other country and business; and those who pei se- 
vere and are fit for the task, will reap the benefits. Poor 
wines will be a drug in the markets in a very few years, 
and none but really good wines will find a ready sale. 



304 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWIN^G 

Let it be so; we can spare the poor wines, and those who 
make them; their loss Avill be our gain. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

I have come to the end of my task. That it can, at the 
best, be but imj^erfectly performed, treating of such an 
industry in a necessarily condensed form, no one knows 
better than myself. AVe have an immense field before 
ns, where there is yet room for millions of willing and 
intelligent heads and hands. With the high price of 
labor now paid (one dollar per day and board is about the 
average), thousands of intelligent, industrious laborers 
can find lucrative employment, and no one who is sober 
and industrious need fear but he can make a living here. 
The many vineyards planted by capitalists as a good 
irivestment of their money, when they come into bearing, 
will need the supervision of skilful men, and there will 
be in a few years a great field for intelligent men, more 
so even than there is now, and all such should be wel- 
comed as desirable acquisitions. We have a State Board 
of Viticulture, created by act of Legislature, with an 
appropriation of ten thousand dollars, annually, who have 
already collected and distributed much valuable informa- 
tion, held two annual conventions of grape growers, and 
exhibitions of viticultural products, and who could accom- 
plish still more good, did its presiding officers freely 
tolerate different views from their own and encourage the 
full and free expression of the opinions and experience of 
all practical men. 

The Agricultural Department of our State University, 
under the able management of Prof. Hilgard, has already 
rendered efficient aid, by analyses of soil, experiments in 
fermentation, researches in regard to Phylloxera, and 
resistant stocks, lectures and reports, etc., and could do 
still more, were its means sufficient to do all the faculty 
would like to accomplish. 



AND WINE MAKING. 305 

In conclusion, I wish to tender acknowledgments for 
the information gained from the reports of our State Viti- 
cultural Commission, the pamphlets issued by the State 
University, and to the ])ress throughout the State. Also 
I would, return my grateful thanks for the kinduess and 
courtesy shown me by my brother grape growers through- 
out the State, wiio have welcomed the stranger in their 
midst, and freely imparted the knowledge and experience 
gathered through long years of arduous labors; especially 
the Messrs. Crabb, Groezinger, Krug, Weinberger, and 
others in Napa Valley; to Messrs. Dresel, Gundlacb., 
Winkel, Hill, and others of Sonoma; to Messrs. West, of 
Stockton ; Mr. Blowers, of Woodland ; Mr. Lefranc, of 
San Jose ; Messrs. Kohler, Bundscheu, Lachman, Schil- 
ling, and others, of San Francisco, for much of the infor- 
mation contained in these pages. My effort is somewhat 
desultory, and must needs be, with so vast a task be- 
fore me. If it serves but to give a little more insight, 
and impart some useful knowledge to new beginners, I 
shall have accomplished my object. 



INDEX 



Acidiraeter, Twitcheirs 201-217 

jE^tivalis Class ..... 54 

Arbors, Vines Upon 93 

Barney, Hon. Hiram 185 

Baskets for Packing 122 

Bateham, M. B., Grapes and Wiue 

in Ohio 135 

Birds in the Vineyard 114 

Border of Vines 109 

Bottling Wine 211 

Burr's, Jotin, Seedlings 191 

California, Grape Calture in Fres- 
no Co 162 

" Grape Culture in Napa 

Co 166 

" Grape Culture in Sono- 
ma Co 169 

" Phylloxera Problem in.. 186 

Cambre, Eugene, on Grafting 25 

Campbell, Geo. W., Grape Culture 

in Southern Ohio 127 

Carrying Vat 203 

Casbin, T. D., Grape Culture in 

Maryland 174 

Cashin's Trellis 176 

Casks 199 

" Preparing 206 

Catawba Must Gallized.... 227 

Callar Furniture 198 

Classes of Grapes, Jilstivalis 54 

"■ " " Cordifolia .... 55 

" " '• Labrusca 35 

" " " Riparia 65 

C )lonies for Grape Growing 23S 

C irdi folia Class 65 

Cornelius, Mr., Method of Grafting. 25 
Cost of hstahlishing a Vineyard. . .191 
Crabb, H. W., Viticulture in Napa 

Co.,Cal 169 

Crooked Lake, N. Y., Grapes .123-142 

Cultivation of Vineyard. 87 

Cuttings, Grafted. ..., 26 

Discarded Labrusca Varieties 53 

" ^stivalis Varieties 65 

Diseases of the Vine 402 

" " "Greeley Rot ".140 

" " " Mildew on Kel- 

ley^s Island.. 140 
of Wine 211 

307 



Drainage on Kelley's Island 138 

Draining the Soil . . 31 

Dresel, Julius, Viticulture in Sono- 
ma Valley, Cal .166 

Egg Harbor, N. J., Wines 190 

Eckel, Rudolph, Grape Growing in 

W. Texas 159 

Eisen, Gustaf, Culture of the Grape 

in California 162 

Engelmann, Dr., on Native Grapes 13 

Fermentation 206 

" Changes Caused by. 222 

the Second 210 

Fermenting on the Husks... 207 

Frosts, Protection from 115 

Fruit, Thinning 95-118 

Funnel for Wine 200 

Gall, Dr., On Wine Making 218 

Gallizing 214 

"Gallouizing" 214 

Gathering and Marketing Fruit 121 

Grapes for Wine 124-202 

Girdling the Vine 117 

Golden Willow for Tying 91 

Grafting, Advantages of 22 

Methods 23 

" Upon Cuttings 28 

Grape and Fruit Colonies 238 

" Cholera 101 

Grape Culture in California.162-166-169 
" and Wine Making on 

Crooked Lake, N.Y.142 

In Maryland 174 

In Missouri 183 

In Southern Ohio 127 

In Southern Texas . .145 

In Tennessee 182 

In Western Texas,. . .15:) 
On Kelley's Island, 0.138 

Grapes, Classification of.. 11 

European 12 

Natives Species of 12-151 

Scissors 120 

Time to Gather for Wine. .202 

What to Plant 31 

When Ripe 121 

Grape-Sugar 233 

Gray Rot 104 

Horizontal Arm Training 90-101 



308 



IN^DEX. 



House Cellar for Wine 195 

Husks and Lees— Uses for 212 

Hybrids of Labrusca 35 

Inarching the Vine 24 

Insects, Injurious to the Grape 105 

Aphis 112 

Beetles.... Ill 

Bees 113 

Camel Cricket. 113 

" Cut-worm Ill 

" Devil's Horse 113 

" Grape-Vine Fidia 112 

" Grape- Vine Root Louse 10.5 

" Grape-Vine Sphinx 112 

" Grasshopper 112 

Lady Bug 113 

Leaf -Folders. . . 93-111 

" Mantis 113 

" Phylloxera 105 

Plant Louse 112 

" Eear-Horse 113 

" Rocky Mountain Locust. ..1.2 
" Root-Louse of the Grape. .105 

Thrips 112 

Useful 113 

'• Wasps 113 

Iowa— White Elk Vineyards 184 

Jaeger's, Hermann, Seedlings 04 

Keeping Grapes 122 

Kelk-y's Island, O.. Grape Culture on.l38 

Keuka Lake, N. Y., Grapes at 142 

Lal)rusca Class 35 

Langeiidocrfer's, F., Seedlings .... 62 

Laterals, Treatment of 93 

Layering to Fill Vacancies 97 

L-^aves, Removal of 118 

Location and Soil for Vineyard £8 

Madinger's, Jacob, Seedlings 53 

Manuring tlie Vine 97 

Miiryland, Grape Culiuie in 171 

Mildew 103 

Miller. Sam., on Early Winter 191 

Mill For Grapes 199 

Missouri. Grape Culture in 183 

Mnench, Hon. F., on Grape Culture 

in Missouri 183 

Mast, Its Change Into Wine 219 

" Normal 215-223 

" of American Grapes 224 

Must-Scale 200-21(5 

Oechsles' Must Scale . 200-216 

Oiiio, Grape Culture and Wine- 
Making in 135 



Ohio, Southern, Grape Culture in.. 127 

Old Vines, Renewal v.{ 119 

Onderdonk, G., on G>iii)e Growing 

in Southern Texas 145 
" on The Grapes of 

Texas 151 

" Memoranda on Grape. 153 
" ou The Vineyard in 

Texas 154 

Packages for Maiketing. 122 

Phylloxera Problem in California... 186 

Pinching the Laterals 93 

'• Young Shoois 92 

Planchon, Prof., on Phylloxera 106 

Planting the Vine 81 

Pleasant Valley Wine Co 143 

Poeschel & Scherer, Success in 

Grafting 22 

Press for Grapes ... 198 

Propagation, by Cuttings 19 

, " by Grafting 22 

" by Inarching 24 

by Layers 21 

" by Seeds 16 

Protection in Winter 115 

Pruning and Training 87 

Pruning Saw 120 

Pruning Shears 119 

Racking the Wine 23S 

Raisins in California 172 

Riparia Class ()5 

Ripeness, How Known 121 

Ripening, To Hasten 117 

Ricketts'. J. II., His Seedlings 51 

Riley, Prof. C.V., on Phylloxera.105-107 

Rommeirs, Jacob, Seedlings 65-70 

Rulander Wine, Experiments With. 226 

Saccharometer 200-216 

Seedling Vines.... 17 

Seeds, Sowing 17 

Soil and Location for Vincyarcl, ,... 28 

Soil, Preparation of 30 

Spot ted or Brown Rot 104 

Sugar Used in Wine Making 233 

Tennessee, Grape Culture Near 

Chattanooga 182 

Texas, Grape Growing in Southern. 145 
" '• in Western.. 1.59 

" Native Grapes of 151 

Tliinning the Fruit.... 95-118 

Training as Bolder 100 

" Horizontal Arm 101 a 

J 



INDEX. 



30.9 



Training Horizontal Zii^ Za?. ... . . 175 

ill Stool Form 90 

" ill Wustoni N. Y lUO 

" on Arbor:? and Walls 9S 

to Stakes.. [)d 

Trullis, Cashiirs 176 

To Build So 

Tubs in WineMalcins: 200 

Tying Material 91 

Uibaiia Wine Co 142 

Vacancies, To Fill !)7 

Vallet's, Jno,, Method of Gruftin.^- 24 

Vat for Carrying Grapes 203 

Vats for Fermenting , . . . 199 

Vabieties of Grapes — Synonyms in 
Italics. 

Alvey 63 

Amber 70 

Aminia 43 

Ariadne 75 

Bacchns. 74 

Baldwin Lenoir 63 

Barry 43 

Beauty 44 

Black Defiance 44-133 

Black Eagle 44-133 

Black July .63-140 

Black July (Berckmans') 154 

Black Spanish 61-145-lGl 

Black Spanish in Texas 159 

Bloomsburg 77 

Brighton 46 

Brighton in Oliio 130 

Bullace . 15 

Bush 151 

Catawba 35 

Catawissa Bloom 77 

Christine 43 

Clinton 76 

Columbia Countij . 77 

Concord 35 

Concord in Ohio 128 

Cottage 53 

Creveliiig 77 

Cunningham 61 

Cunningham (Berckmans"). . . . .153 

Cynthiana 54 

Delaware 77 

Delaware in Ohio 131 

Devereux 61 

Duchess 47 

Daiin 153 



Early Champion 44 

Early Dawn. . 46 

Early Victor 191 

Elvira (;6 

Elvira in Oliio ,.1.31 

Essex .30 

Eva 45 

Far West 64 

Frost ...... 14 

German Grape . 77 

Goetlie 36 

Golden Delaware 175 

Ha-ar 63 

Harwood. . . 153-157 

Heath 77 

Ilerbemont. . . 58 

Herbemont in Texas 157 

HerhemonVs Madeira 58 

Hermann 62 

Ki-hland 51 

Ualian Wine 77 

Ives 39 

Jach: 61 

Jacques 61 

Jefferson 51-183 

Lady 4.j 

Lady in Ohio 129 

Lady Washington 51-133 

Laura Beverly 77 

L^-noir 61-145 

Lenoir (Berckmans') I."i4 

Lincoln 63 

Lindley 39 

Long 61 

Mabel . 134 

Martha 39 

Massasoit 39 

Missouri Eiesling 74 

Moore's Early 46 

Moore's Early in Ohio 130 

Muscadine 15 

Mustang 151 

Naomi 75 

Neosho •. 63-65 

Niagara. 46-132 

Noah 74 

Northern Fox 13 

JVortoii's Seedling 5T 

Norton's Virginia 57 

Pearl 73 

Perkins 40 

Pizarro , 74 

Planet ,, 53 



310 



INDEX. 



Pocklington 47-132 

Prentiss 48-133 

Seedling No. 1 51 

No. 2 51 

Purity '18-130 

Racine., 65 

Red Biter 54 

Ricketts' No. 1 52 

No. 11 52- 

No. 502 52 

No. 250 52 

No. 331 52 

No. 231 7o 

No. 234 75 

No. 413 75 

Riverside 14 

Rogers' Hybrids No. 1 36 

" '• No. 4 43 

No. 7 39 

No. 39 43 

No. 41 36 

No. 43 43 

Rommeirs No. 14 73 

No. 20 73 

Rulander , 62 

Salem 40 

Scuppernong 78 

Southern JEstivalis 152 

Southern Fox 15 

Storm King 53 

Summer 13 

Taylor 76 

Telegraph 43 

Trammer ... 77 

Transparent 70 

Triumph 45 

Uhland 73 

Yirginia Seedling 57 

yVarren 58 

Warren in Texas 157 

Wmrento % — 58 

White Norton, Balsiger's 65 

White Norton, Langendoerfer's 65 



Wilder 43 

Willis 134 

Winter 14 

Worden's Seedling 130 

Varieties., Choice of .31 

" Difficult to Classify 77 

for Different Localities.79 80 

Vine. Diseases of 102 

Vines to Plant 81 

" Treatment the First Summer. 84 

" " " Second "' 87 

" Tliird " 91 

" " " Fourth " 96 

Vineyard, Cost of 191 

Cultivation 87 

" ill Texas 154 

" Location and Soil 28 

Vitis jestivalis 13 

" caudicaiis 151 

" cordifu)ia... .. 14 

" Labrusca , ... 13 

" riparia 14 

" nipestris 151-160 

" vinifera 12 

" vnlpina .15-78 

White Elk Vineyards 184 

Wine, After Treatment 210 

'• Bottling 211 

'^ Cellar 195 

" Substitute for 198 

" Diseases of 211 

" Flatand Turbid 211 

" Making 195 

" " Gall's and PetioPs 

Method 213 

" " on Crooked Lake.... 143 

Made Easy 236 

" at Egg Harbor, N.J 190 

- Dry .. .223 

" Sweet 223 

" White or Red 205 

Winter Protection 115 

Wires for Trellis 85 



CONTENTS OP THE ADDED CHAPTERS. 



American Vines in France 270 

Diseases and Insects 267 

Frosts 27T 

Grafting the Vines 262 

Extent of Grape Growing in Cal. . .296 

Marketing Grapes 278 

Nursery, The 244 

Raisin Making 279 

Stocks, Species for 240 

" Propagation of 242 



Training the Vines 264 

Vineyard, The 244 

Cultivation of 258 

" Preparation of Ground . .245 
'•'• Restoring an Infested. . .275 
" Selection of Varieties for 247 

Wine Making in California 284 

" " Apparatus for 293 

Wines, Liqueur 293 

" Sparkling 295 



Gardening for Young and Old. 

THE 

CULTIVATION OF GAEDEN VEGETABLES IN THE 
FARM GARDEN. 

By JOSEPH HARRIS, M.S., 

ipithor of ''Walks and Talks on the Farm,'" '■'■ Harris on the Pig,"' "Talks on- 
Manvres,'^ etc 




CONTENTS. 
Introduction.— An Old and a New Garden.- Gardening for Boys.— How to 
Begin.— Preparing the Soil.— Killing the Weeds.— About High Farming.- Com- 
petition m Crops.— The Manure Question.— The Implements Needed.— Start- 
ing Plants in the House or in the Hot-bed. -The Window-box.- Making the 
Hot bed.-Cold Frames.-Insects.- Tlie Use of Poisons.-^The Care of Poisons. 
-The Cultivation of Vegetables m the Farm Garden.— The Cultivation of 
Flowers. 

ILLLUSTRATED. 

12mo. Cloth. Price, post-paid, $1.25. 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 

DAVID W. JUDD, PresH, SAMUEL BURNHAM, See. 

751 BKO.IDWAY, NliTT YORK. 





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ed with a great number of engravings, many of them drawn from life, and 
faithfully portraying the points and characteristics of game, birds, fishes, 
horses, dogs etc., etc. 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 

DAVID W. JUDD, PresH. SAMUEL BURNHAM, Seo. 

751 BBtOADWAY, NKW^ YORK. 



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